Charles Clark has been a mainstay of the Houston culinary scene for decades. His approach to food and wine is bold and dynamic; time spent in Spain early in his career had a profound effect on the way he hosts and feeds his guests.
Charles Clark pours for guests at his Brasserie 19. (Andrew Hemingway)
I always enjoy spending time at Brasserie 19, Clark’s popular and lively place on West Gray Street. Seated at the bar is best, and the people-watching opportunities are legion. The wine list is large and full of value, the food commendable.
Clark is the subject of the latest Wine Talk, and he has a lot to say. It was published in PaperCity Magazine, and you can read it here.
Alexandre Burgaud is a name with which you might not be familiar, but if you like wine, you need to get to know it.
Burgaud is a young producer whose five-hectare estate lies in Lantignié, a tiny place (population of 886 humans in 2015) about 5 kilometers from Beaujeu and 10 kilometers from Chiroubles, in the Rhône department.
Alexandre Burgaud is making some very good wines in Beaujolais. (Photo courtesy Les Grappes)
Gamay is what we have here, and Burgaud does it well. I tasted his 2018 Beaujolais-Lantignié (SRP $23) and his 2018 Brouilly (SRP $21), and I want more. These bottles are perfect for your case-purchase plans, and once the COVID-19 pandemic allows dinner parties, the Brouilly will be paired with lamb shanks and mushrooms on a Brockhaus menu. I like the structure of this wine; tannins here are in harmony with the marvelous red berry fruit.
As for the Beaujolais-Lantignié, it is something I am going to add to my regular lineup. The ripe cherry and dark berry aromas rise from the glass in an enticing manner, and the black peppery/herbaceous flavors induce taste after taste. I paired this wine with a saucisson sec and some Comté, and it was wonderful.
Alexandre’s cousin, Jean-Marc Burgaud, is a talented Morgon producer, and he has shared a lot of his winemaking knowledge and techniques with Alexandre. That includes the practice of never destemming, and the use of concrete for aging.
A wine of which I’d never tire. (Courtesy Alexandre Burgaud)
The vines planted on Alexandre Burgaud’s five-hectare estate — which was established in 2013 — average 60 years in age and produce the Beaujolais-Lantignié and Beaujolais-Villages; the soils here are rocky, predominantly blue slate, similar to those found in the Côte du Py. The Brouilly’s source is a few hectares of rented vines (average age of 70-plus years) that Burgaud hopes to purchase.
Burgaud’s wines present great value, and the quality in the glass is remarkable. I’m impressed with his approach to winemaking, and look forward to enjoying more of what he makes.
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