Month: November 2016

My Long and Winding Journey With Riesling Continues

Terry Theise: A man of wine.

Terry Theise: A man of wine.

So many bottles, so little time. Still, you recall hundreds of moments when the cork slid from the green vessel, the friends near you, the setting (a winery in Rheinland-Pfalz, a castle in Bavaria, Holger and Gudrun’s house, a Houston restaurant, a patch of grass in Brooklyn), the food, the laughter and conversation. It’s a journey that began for you during a magical time, and you’ve learned much in the days and nights since. And through it all, Riesling.

Several years ago I initiated an email conversation with Terry Theise. (Many of you will be familiar with him, and to those of you who aren’t, if you are in the slightest interested in wine, I recommend you get to know him; Reading Between the Vines is a good place to start.) Theise agreed to answer a few questions for me recently, and he’s the star of my latest Wine Talk. Give it a read here, then open a bottle and make some memories.

The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming Served It Forth

The lobsters had been prepped, the dessert (ginger ice cream and Edna Lewis’s Very Good Chocolate Cake) was ready, and Chris and I were discussing plating. It was Saturday, November 12, and The Brockhaus was making another appearance in Montrose, cooking in the house where its Houston chapter began, back in September 2014. At 3 p.m., and all was well. It turned out to be a homecoming worth savoring.

The Brockhaus

The guests would arrive at 7, and we’d serve them some Champagne and a chance to chat before dinner. (Judy and Russ and hosts Jared and Caroline were Brockhaus veterans, but the other attendees were new to us, and one another.) The porch overlooking the pool was the perfect spot for mingling.

The Brockhaus

Norma and Gary and Melanie — our team for the evening, from The Culinary Institute LeNôtre — were on the way. (Their work was instrumental to the evening; a kitchen is only as good as its team … there’s no room for deadwood, something that was drilled into me at Amador and Arzak.) Chris and I went over the schedule one final time, divided the tasks, and continued prepping, I taking care of the crab cakes, Chris dealing with the Billi Bi components. Angela entered the scene and began her planning.

The hours — as they always do — flew by, and the evening progressed. The guests talked and drank, the kitchen ran smoothly, and the plating and service hummed. The conversation emanating from the table flowed, the wines (selected by Jeremy Hart, of Banville Wine Merchants) pleased. All was as it should be in that bungalow in Montrose. The courses went out on time — the lobster and ribeye were highlights — and 11:30 arrived without a hitch. Quail, crab cakes, tuna, ginger ice cream … we thank our guests and partners, including Chantal, whose products we love to use.

Until next time, here are some images of The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming (November 12, 2016):

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A Delicious Reunion in a Little Brasserie South of Houston

I have known Kris Jakob for a few years now, and I like his approach to — and passion for — food and cooking. He’s a Texas-born, European-trained chef, and he knows how to take care of his guests. I worked with him at Kris Bistro for a while, back in 2014, and enjoyed the experience.

Kris Jakob has set up a fine restaurant in Friendswood, Texas.

Kris Jakob has set up a fine restaurant in Friendswood, Texas.

He left that restaurant, and is now plying his trade a little ways south of Houston, in a community called Friendswood. I’m glad he’s back making good food. Click here for a look at a few recent visits Angela and I made to Brasserie 1895; we ate well. Jakob has some great people at his new place, and the restaurant is a welcome addition to the landscape.

Guy Stout’s Wine Classes Are Back: Four Nights, Lots of Bottles and Learning

I am a fortunate man, for many reasons. Being able to call Guy Stout a friend is one of them. He’s a true character, a larger-than-life, Texas-born-and-bred original. I’ve learned a lot from him, and look forward to learning more. We’ve shared a table on numerous occasions, and opened a good number of bottles. It’s like a moveable feast, one always full of great stories and food.

A man of wine. (Photo by Alfonso Cevola)

A man of wine. (Photo by Alfonso Cevola)

If you like wine, and want to know more about it, your chance is now, because Stout’s Wine School is back. Beginning on Nov. 7, he’ll introduce you to the world of oenology, delving into the New World and the Old World, the basic and the esoteric. Don’t miss these four evenings. Click here for all the details, and get ready to be schooled.

(Read this for Stout’s Wine Talk.)

Mark Cuban Opens Up, Talks About His Love for White Castle Burgers and ‘The Fountainhead’

The more I come to know about Mark Cuban, the more I like him. I admire people who speak their mind, who don’t take “no” for an answer, who push themselves and others to go for the best, and that’s Cuban. He’s brash, smart, outspoken, he likes to succeed, and he loves to help people with good ideas succeed. He’s a busy man, so I was happy when he agreed to answer a few questions; we exchanged a number of emails, and he took time out from filming in New York to send me his thoughts and opinions. Click here for Mark Cuban Discussing Under the Influence.

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