The words never stop coming, and keeping up with everything I want to is an impossible task. Regrettably, there are often too few hours in a day that one can devote to reading, and though I attempt to stay on top of as much as I can, my stacks of newspapers, magazines, and books are always beckoning (and expanding). There’s wine and food, of course, but there’s so much more, from literature and cinema to essays and profiles. Here’s a look at a few things that caught my eye this week.
Much has been written about Michel Rolland, who passed away on March 20. He was 78. Many loved him and the wines he made, and many detested the wines he made, calling them formulaic and, among other things, saying they taste of nowhere and everywhere. I have both liked and disliked his creations; a 2001 Harlan Estate Bordeaux blend I tasted was sublime on the day with the meal (duck and potates roasted in duck fat). No matter your take on Rolland and his philosphy and methodology, he led a fine life, and his influence is profound. Many outlets published his obituary, among them The New York Times, The Times, Wine Spectator, and Decanter. Rest in peace, M. Rolland.
Michel Rolland grew up in a wine family and went on to have a huge impact on the industry. (Bálint Pörneczi)
France and Italy are joining forces in a woman-powered venture: Chiara Pepe, who runs Emidio Pepe, her family’s Abruzzo estate, is taking over viticulture and winemaking duties at Paul Jaboulet Aîné, which is helmed by Delphine Frey. Pepe succeeds Caroline Frey, who, citing illness and a plan to focus on her vineyards in the Valais, stepped down in 2025.
Chiara Pepe has a new assignment in France. (Emidio Pepe)
Wither wine clubs? Jess Lander takes a look at the scene amid lethargic growth rates and a sense of same-same malaise. One example of doing things differently? Ashes & Diamonds’ A&D Traveler program. (If you are a member of a wine club, or clubs, write and let me know what you like or dislike about it/them.)
Fascination with Dionysus and the myths and stories surrounding him is something I share with many, among them Carravagio and Cy Twombly. Stuart Walton has written a fine piece about the god for World of Fine Wine; read it here.
Sickly, jaundiced, dissipated: Caravaggio’s self-portrait (1593-4) is a discomfiting sight to behold. (Borghese Gallery, Rome)
It’s a 1945 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and it was purchased for $812,500 this weekend, setting a record for the most expensive wine sold at auction. The vintage marked the final one before phylloxera hit Europe. The bottle came from the cellar of Burgundy luminary Robert Drouhin. That’s some expensive and historic juice.
Alexander Kluge was a towering public intellectual and prolific author and filmmaker. (Thomas Dashuber/laif)
I’m not sure if Alexander Kluge ever had the pleasure of drinking DRC, but I hope he did. The German film director, author, and founder of a television production company died last week at 94. His “Yesterday Girl,” from 1966, is among my favorite films and was prominent in my early studies of German cinema. Here isA.J. Goldman’s obituary of Kluge.
Another German giant passed away recently. Jürgen Habermas was 96, and was perhaps the country’s foremost (and most influential) postwar thinker. Many words have been written about the man and his work since he died earlier this month, including Nancy Fraser’s piece on how Habermas influenced her studies and Mark Dooley’s essay on the philosopher’s “greatest legacy.”
Muriel Spark was a fine writer, and she lived a life full of conflict, mental illness, and drama. Her letters (volume 1) are out, and that is a good reason to also read “Electric Spark: The Enigma of Dame Muriel.” Here’s a look at both books.
An event I rate highly is right around the corner. It’s the Festival of Undiscovered Grapes, and it takes place this year on March 28 in Los Angeles, directly on the heels of the inaugural San Jose edition of the event. (This year I am offering readers a few discounts on tickets to the festival, so read on.)
More than 60 wineries from California will be pouring everything from clairette blanche, bourboulenc, counoise, xarelo.lo, fiano … Wait, what is that I hear from some of my readers? What is bourboulenc, you ask, and fiano? Pouring what? Well, for those who are unfamiliar with those grapes, that is, in a nutshell, the focus of this event: to highlight lesser-known varieties and introduce them to more people.
Rob Sinton, who along with his father, Tom Sinton, owns Starfield Vineyards, is returning to the festival this year. (Sandoval Media)
Nine varieties — chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, zinfandel, syrah, and petit sirah — comprise 93 percent of total wine grape plantings in California. However, 110-plus varieties are planted in the state, which means an abundance of other wine grapes are looking for attention and love. No, those other grapes are not literally “undiscovered,” but they are unknown to and underappreciated by many people, something the Festival of Undiscovered Grapes hopes to rectify.
Kevin Lee, co-owner of Marchelle Wines, greets a taster at last year’s festival. (Sandoval Media)
“It’s exciting to understand and appreciate the vastness of the wine world in California, and this is an event that you’ll want to come to with an open mind and have fun discovering things,” says Allison Levine, the event’s founder. “We’ll have more than 70 great varieties being poured.”
Tablas Creek Vineyard will be back at the festival this year. (Sandoval Media)
Levine owns Please the Palate, a marketing, branding, events, and education firm focused on wine and spirits. She’s also a friend of mine, a fact that in no way biases my assessment of The Festival of Undiscovered Grapes. This year’s Undiscovered will be my third — I was unable to make it to the San Jose premiere edition — and the first two were among the best wine events I’ve experienced. Smaller producers are given the opportunity to shine, and I love that attendees can meet and talk with them one on one. There are some outstanding people behind these wines, and I never tire of speaking with them.
Allison Levine, founder of The Festival of Undiscovered Grapes, toasts attendees at the 2025 event in Los Angeles. (Sandoval Media)
Of course, one of the main reasons to attend a wine tasting is to sample as many wines as one can. To do so in an efficient and responsible manner, be sure that you carry a spit cup, drink lots of water, and eat something — food will be available for sale at the festival. Finally, consider using rideshare
Rebekah Wineburg, winemaker and co-owner of Post & Vine, helms her table at the 2025 Festival of Undiscovered Grapes. (Sandoval Media)
Another reason to attend an event such as Undiscovered is that you can purchase wines from myriad producers in one place. What makes Levine’s event special is that there are no minimums: You can pick up a case or two of a particular wine, or mix and match without restriction, or you can buy a single bottle and call it a day. There is no pressure, and no complicated details. In addition — and this is a big deal — if you purchase 12 bottles or more and reside 60 miles or closer to the event venue delivery will be free.
Larry Schaffer, Tercero Wines owner and winemaker, pours at the 2025 Festival of Undiscovered Grapes in Los Angeles. (Sandoval Media)
You’ll need a ticket to attend, of course, and I recommend getting VIP passes, because the $125 price gives you a lot, including noon admission (as opposed to 2 p.m. for general admission tickets), a pre-tasting discussion on Lodi wines with Stuart Spencer, executive director of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, and David Glancy, a master sommelier and instructor at the San Francisco Wine School, free delivery of any wines you order at the event with no minium requirement, a ticket for one food item, an Undiscovered Grapes T-shirt, and, last but not least, a Festival Passport, which includes offers from participating wineries and sponsors such as free tastings and tours, special experiences, and discounts.
Attendees at the 2025 edition of The Festival of Undiscovered Grapes. (Sandoval Media)
As promised, and because I want to see as many of you on March 28 at the festival as possible, here are some discount offers for tickets to the festival. First, for those planning to go solo, click BROCKHAUS10 to get $10 off any ticket (VIP or GA). Going with a friend or partner? Click BROCKHAUSBUNDLE to save $30 on two tickets.
DETAILS The Festival of Undiscovered Grapes Saturday, March 28 Mica Studios 356 South Mission Road Los Angeles, CA 90033 Click here for map 12:00 p.m.: VIP Entrance 2:00 p.m.: General Admission 5:00 p.m.: Event ends VIP: $125 plus Humantix fee GA: $75 plus Humantix fee
One should not judge a bottle of wine by its label. To begin, aesthetics are for the most part subjective. A cute kitten on a label might appeal to you, while your partner finds it sappy and not suitable. However, labels are not to be overlooked or disregarded.
At the basic level, one can learn the specifics of a wine, say, a riesling or Champagne, by reading the label. Trocken? Demi-sec? Monopole? There you go. Labels are also — or can be — art. They can espouse a philosophy or viewpoint, and they can represent a family or region. They can do and be all of those things. Don’t buy a wine based solely on its label (but if you choose to do that I will not shame you), but do keep in mind that the label is there for a reason.
I recently received a four-bottle shipment from Cadre Wines, and the labels are beautiful. Some might even say they constitute art. Again, that can be subjective, but I love these labels. And there’s a bonus here, because the wines are also lovely, and each is one you’ll want to pair with food. (Which brings up another topic: I am a firm believer that wine should always, or mostly always, be enjoyed with food, but some wines go better with food than do others.)
Three white wines from the San Luis Obispo Coast. (Cadre Wines)
The couple behind Cadre, John and Lucy Niven, are no strangers to the wine world. John’s grandfather, Jack Niven, was a San Luis Obispo luminary and is referred to by many as the pioneer of the Edna Valley. In 1973 he established Paragon Vineyard, which is the oldest continually producing property in the Edna Valley. The family sold Paragon and Niven Family Wines in 2020; John and Lucy founded Cadre Wines the same year and source fruit from the vineyard.
Lucy and John Niven took out a second mortgage to launch Cadre Wines.
John Niven is a third-generation vintner, and one can taste his experience in these wines, all of which are fermented and aged solely in stainless steel, have screw cap closures, and retail for a suggested price of $30.
Here is the Cadre lineup I sampled: 2024 “Stone Blossom” Sauvignon Blanc 2024 “Sea Queen” Albariño 2024 “Band of Stones” Grüner Veltliner 2024 “Beautiful Stranger” White Blend
I recently participated in a virtual tasting hosted by John Niven, and he led us through the four bottles after sharing the story of his family’s history in the wine business. A few nights earlier I had opened the grüner veltliner with friends while dining at an Ethiopian restaurant, and it was perfect with the vegan cuisine (lentils, cabbage, carrots, potatoes); the grüner’s fruit is the product of the first coastal planting of the variety in California, which dates to the late 2000s. The three other wines I first tasted during the virtual session. The word “crisp” could be used frequently in this piece, because these wines demonstrate that characteristic in abundance. Cool-climate white wines is the key phrase here, and Niven has made some stellar examples.
Try this with a curry dish.
The “Band of Stones” veltliner comes mainly from block 168 of Paragon Vineyard, a plot marked by well-draining soils containing limestone, sandstone, shale, and mudstone, all playing their roles in the wine’s sharp and complex texture. I loved the structured depth here, which certainly is influenced by fruit from Jack Ranch Vineyard, a steep, sandy property located at the northwest edge of the San Luis Obispo Coast AVA. The typical white pepper and floral aromas are lively here, as is a minerality melded with flavors of white pepper, citrus, and a note of ginger. Pair with curry dishes, grilled asparagus (yes, try it), or chicken schnitzel.
A wine influenced by the sea.
I like cool-climate sauvignon blanc, and Cadre’s “Stone Blossom” is an impressive one. It’s 100 percent sauvignon blanc (Clone 1, Musqué, and ENTAV Clone 530) from the Paragon and Salaal vineyards. Profound salinity was my initial impression, both on the nose and palate. Paragon Vineyard is about 5 miles from the ocean, and the maritime influence is strong in this wine. If you like sauvignon blanc, this is for you, and if you think you don’t like sauvignon blanc, please try this one. Aromas of Persian cucumber, lime, and soft coriander, followed by that salinity, mimosa, melon, and a bright herbaceous note, primarily tarragon and basil. I’d love to pair this with a meal of poached and grilled artichokes followed by a chicken and goat cheese salad.
Cadre’s 2024 “Sea Queen” has an interesting backstory that involves a relationship with Rías Baixas and the Morgadío Estate. In 2007, Niven journeyed to the region in Spain, which is considered the birthplace of albariño. He tasted a lot of wines and talked with as many winemakers and growers.
“We came back energized and knew immediately that Edna Valley could produce albariño to rival anything in Europe,” he said. Niven then procured cuttings from California growers whose vines had come from Morgadío, arguably Spain’s top source of albariño, and planted 45 acres in Paragon Vineyard, what he terms “the most ambitious albariño planting outside of the Iberian Peninsula.”
Cuttings from Spain resulted in this bottle.
Referring to similarities between the Spanish region and the San Luis Obispo Coast, Niven added: “Much of California’s albariño is grown in warmer inland regions. Our vineyards lie just 2 to 5 miles from the Pacific, shaped by the ocean in ways that echo the Atlantic influence in Spain’s Rías Baixas. Albariño is most at home by the sea. The cool breezes, fog, and maritime moderation allow it to fully express vibrant acidity, lifted aromatics, and salty mineral character indigenous to this stretch of California coastline. I believe the San Luis Obispo Coast is the New World home of albariño.”
Paragon Vineyard was established in 1973.
The “Sea Queen” is made with fruit from Paragon (block 163) and Morro View Vineyard, and this wine is one of the best examples of albariño I’ve had in a while. I’m going directly to the food pairing here, because if you have grilled shrimp (with garlic and parsley) on your mind do not hesitate to open this bottle when you sit at the table with your shellfish. I closed the bottle after the virtual tasting session and enjoyed it immensely with that very dish the next day. As with the Cadre sauvignon blanc, one can smell and taste the sea in this acid-driven wine, along with captivating aromas of peach and citrus and flavors of stone fruit, most notably apricot and muted nectarine.
Three things come together for one great bottle here.
The final Cadre bottle I tasted was the “Beautiful Stranger,” a blend of 60 percent grüner veltliner, 30 percent sauvignon blanc, and 10 percent albariño. Fruit from Paragon and Salaal vineyards is used here, and tasting this one after the other Cadre bottles was a revelation. I could, by focusing on them, discern the individual components, and the interplay between the three was magical. The aromatics of the albariño, the concise minerality of the grüner veltliner, and the sauvignon blanc’s herbaceousness combine for something complex yet approachable. I have no doubt this would pair well with roast chicken, as well as with pasta al limone.
Cadre also has an Ode series, which includes “Ode to the Few,” a sauvignon blanc, and “Ode to the Sea,” an albariño. Both retail for $45. The former’s fruit comes from a single block marked by volcanic soil rich with iron, while the latter’s is sourced from Spanish Springs Vineyard, which lies 2 miles from the Pacific. I look forward to tasting these wines; you can purchase all of them here, or ask for Cadre at your favorite merchant.
My next tasting session will feature wines made from traditional Italian grapes — carricante, nerello mascalese, and nebbiolo —grown in Northern Sonoma County.
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