Month: March 2019

A Poet Takes His Leave: Rest in Peace, W.S. Merwin

“I think there’s a kind of desperate hope built into poetry now that one really wants, hopelessly, to save the world. One is trying to say everything that can be said for the things that one loves while there’s still time. I think that’s a social role, don’t you? … We keep expressing our anger and our love, and we hope, hopelessly perhaps, that it will have some effect. But I certainly have moved beyond the despair, or the searing, dumb vision that I felt after writing The Lice; one can’t live only in despair and anger without eventually destroying the thing one is angry in defense of. The world is still here, and there are aspects of human life that are not purely destructive, and there is a need to pay attention to the things around us while they are still around us. And you know, in a way, if you don’t pay that attention, the anger is just bitterness.”

W.S. Merwin, a poet and translator of the highest order, wrote the words above in response to a question about a poet’s social role, and what sticks with me is the “need to pay attention.” Merwin, who died on Friday, paid searing, probing attention, and readers — and society, if it will listen — are the better for his work.

The poet circa 1972 (Photo by Douglas Kent Hall / ZUMA Press)

Merwin was born in New York City on September 30, 1927, and attended Princeton on a scholarship. He was 16, which is when he began, in a serious manner, his poetic journey. (His time at that university is what, years later, first led me to him, through John Berryman, one of my favorite poets. Berryman was R.P. Blackmur‘s teaching assistant, and Merwin studied under Blackmur.)

When he was 17, he enlisted in the Navy, but realized that he had made a “mistake,” as he told NPR. He registered as a conscientious objector and spent a year in a psychiatric ward in a Boston naval hospital. Merwin returned to Princeton at 18, and graduated with a bachelor’s degree in 1948.

Europe, London, marriages, a home in the Dordogne region, divorces, New York in the late 1960s: Merwin lived and worked and traveled, and by the time he set up residence in New York City he was a poet in earnest.

Hawaii was next, and last, fittingly so, for Merwin. His life there, spent on 19 acres — a pineapple plantation that he replanted — was full of accomplishment, grace, writing, and acclaim. A documentary, To Plant a Tree, is a pleasure to watch. He lived on Maui, in a place called Haiku.

Here’s another piece on Merwin worth viewing.

I hope you read this man’s work. He has much to impart.

I close with this poem, Berryman.

Berryman

I will tell you what he told me
in the years just after the war
as we then called
the second world war

don’t lose your arrogance yet he said
you can do that when you’re older
lose it too soon and you may
merely replace it with vanity

just one time he suggested
changing the usual order
of the same words in a line of verse
why point out a thing twice

he suggested I pray to the Muse
get down on my knees and pray
right there in the corner and he
said he meant it literally

it was in the days before the beard
and the drink but he was deep
in tides of his own through which he sailed
chin sideways and head tilted like a tacking sloop

he was far older than the dates allowed for
much older than I was he was in his thirties
he snapped down his nose with an accent
I think he had affected in England

as for publishing he advised me
to paper my wall with rejection slips
his lips and the bones of his long fingers trembled
with the vehemence of his views about poetry

he said the great presence
that permitted everything and transmuted it
in poetry was passion
passion was genius and he praised movement and invention

I had hardly begun to read
I asked how can you ever be sure
that what you write is really
any good at all and he said you can’t

you can’t you can never be sure
you die without knowing
whether anything you wrote was any good
if you have to be sure don’t write

W.S. Merwin, “Berryman” from Migration. Copyright © 2005 by W.S. Merwin, used by permission of The Wylie Agency LLC.Source: 
Migration: New & Selected Poems (Copper Canyon Press, 2005)

A Pasta Dish Extraordinaire: Garganelli, Sausage, and Leeks, Plus Truffles

Leeks and garganelli, plus sausage and mascarpone. The pasta, a type hailing originally from Romagna, is both hearty and delicate, graceful and sturdy. It’s been rolled by hand.

Rustic is what this dish certainly is; the leek and sausage ragù I would happily eat on its own, or spread on grilled bread. The sausage possesses a richness that, when combined with the leeks, mellows and lingers. The mascarpone is warm and creamy and slightly acidic. And the truffles.

The truffles belong here. Your spirits lift when you lean over this dish and inhale their aroma. The right thing to do: Take your spoon and mix everything, gently. The distinct flavors will meld, the pasta’s tiny ridges will capture the sauce, and your evening will become more than satisfying.

You’ll find the garganelli, and the rest of this creation, at Sorriso, a restaurant that opened early in 2019 in The Woodlands, a planned community north of Houston. The kitchen is run by Enzo Fargione, who made his name in D.C. with Barolo and Elisir. Giorgio Ferrero, the sommelier at Sorriso, will energetically take care of your wine needs, and oversees a diverse and quality list. They’ve gotten off to a promising start.

James Beard Shows Some Deserved Love to Kaiser Lashkari and Tony Vallone

I contain multitudes of identities as a writer and eater, and this piece is written by the private, unaffiliated, subjective one, the man who writes unhindered by any encumbrance, who need not think about an editor (except myself) or anyone’s vanities, insecurities, lack of experience or knowledge, delusions, or frailties.

Two of my favorite restaurants in Houston — Tony’s and Himalaya — were this week nominated for James Beard Awards, and I could not be happier, because I love both places, and adore and respect the men (and women) who run them. The food they oversee is moving, delicious, and it comforts and warms me. I am glad to be their friend.

Kaiser Lashkari, who with his wife, Azra, runs Himalaya, is a semifinalist in the Best Chef Southwest category, and Tony Vallone, whose wife, Donna, is his partner in excellence, and his team are (once again) in the running for the Outstanding Service Award. There is stiff competition in both categories, but making the cut this far is no small feat.

Tony Vallone in his domain.

I’ve spent hour upon hour in both restaurants — last night I dined at Himalaya, and invited a friend who had never eaten there; as with everyone else Angela and I have introduced to Kaiser’s food, he loved it, the Masala fried chicken and the saag paneer, the chicken achaari — and both places are now part of me. Both men — Vallone for more than half a century, Lashkari for 15 years now — have created small universes that exert satisfying pull, on me and many others.

From Italy, with love

Anyone who has occupied a table at Tony’s need not be convinced that the restaurant’s nomination is deserved. Nothing is out of place. Guests are never asked, “Are you still working on that.” The wine is poured properly, the cutlery placed just so. And it all began, and begins, with Vallone’s demanding attention.

Here’s something I wrote about Vallone in a piece on his 50th anniversary of owning the restaurant: He’ll never stop. I have had long conversations about food with many people in various locations around the world, from Paris to New York to Hong Kong, and none of those discussions has been more captivating than the ones I’ve shared with Vallone. We talk of sweetbreads and the importance of proper service etiquette. We speak about Tony May, of San Domenico fame, (whose retirement earlier this year leaves Vallone as one of the culinary world’s few elder statesmen) and Marcella Hazan. Our conversations could go on endlessly, interrupted only by a waiter bringing a ristretto — Vallone’s drink of choice — to the table.

A master at work

Lashkari also runs a tight organization, and has eyes in the back of his head. When I walked into Himalaya last night, I spied him seated at a table, alone, a menu and notes in front of him. Seconds later, he glanced to his left, saw that a table of diners was in need of attention , and silently alerted a waiter. He’s the kind of man whose accolades make no one jealous. If he wins the Beard Award, those who know him will rejoice.

I’ve written many words about Vallone and Lashkari, about their food and approaches and personalities. I’ve praised the rigatoni bianco Bolognese at Tony’s, and the Nebbiolo Braised Oxtail Alla Vaccinara. The chicken fried steak at Himalaya is one of the few I can eat, and Lashkari’s Parathadilla with lamb is something of which I’ll never tire.

Men and food

If you are out and about in Houston of an evening, and find yourself on Richmond Avenue in the Greenway Plaza area, or near Hillcroft and US 59, spend some time with Vallone and Lashkari. I might be there, continuing my journey around their universes. We’ll eat well.

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