Mise en Place

Wine, Food, and Other Vital Things

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Make Your Own Ricotta-Like Cheese at Home

December 22, 2025 / / 0 Comments

Cheese is one of life’s wonders and necessities. Many are the foods I love, but cheese? I am nothing but passionate about this wonder, this culinary miracle that comes in a multitude of shapes and sizes and textures, not to mention flavor profiles and countries and regions of origin.

My study of and appreciation for “honest” cheese began when I was a teen living in Germany and put a piece of Cambozola in my mouth. The creaminess melded with the distinct tangy flavor (there in part due to the combination of Penicillium camemberti and Penicillium roqueforti that goes into this creation), and I was forever hooked.

It’s cheese’s world … we merely live in it.

From there, wherever I have traveled or called home, cheese has been a constant. France, of course, offers me much, as do Italy and Switzerland. Germany, where I attended high school, and where my serious cheese journey began, will always be one of the centers of my tasting adventures. I recall still a piece of rauchkäse, a smoky, salty, semi-soft cow’s-milk cheese that hails from Bavaria, I tasted near Munich years ago. Smoked with juniper and birch, it was delicious.

Ricotta is another cheese (technically, it is not a true cheese, because it is made from whey, not curdled milk) I love, but at first glance it is nothing about which to get excited, at least visually. No color except white, no visible mold or veining. And most ricotta available in regular grocery stores in the U.S. is bland and rather pedestrian, lacking in complexity and nuance. Unless you have access to a small, mom-and-pop cheesemaker whose inventory includes fresh ricotta, there is a good chance that you’ve never had a quality batch of it.

But you don’t have to venture to Italy or make a special trip to your local cheesemonger (though do visit your cheesemonger) to get your hands on decent ricotta; do as I do and make it yourself. It’s not difficult, and you can control every aspect of the process, including creating your bespoke texture, adding flavor notes, and choosing the type of milk used.

Traditional Method

First, a note. Traditional cheesemakers — in this case I am referring to those who plied (and ply) their trade in Italy — have for centuries used the whey left over from the production of, say, a pecorino or mozzarella, to make ricotta. The whey naturally contains a slight amount of acid, which is necessary to make the cheese. Ricotta means, literally, “re-cooked,” and that’s how it’s done. For a look at one such cheesemaker read Nancy Harmon Jenkins’ profile of Massimiliano Mungilli, whose family has been making raw-milk cheese in northern Tuscany for generations.

At home, of course, most of us do not make fresh pecorino or mozzarella, so that whey will be lacking. However, you can make a cheese that is very similar to ricotta, one perfect for, among other things, a pizza topping, a breakfast dish served with fruit and honey, a sandwich spread, or a salad ingredient, not to mention cannoli, lasagna, and cheesecake. I’ve made hundreds of batches this way over the years, and it’s simple and fun and results in a great product, suitable for both savory and sweet dishes. Note: Some refer to this cheese as “riccottone,” and it does taste different from traditional ricotta, but it is delicious nonetheless.

A mythical maker of cheese.

According to most sources, ricotta has been made in Italy since the Bronze Age (3300 BC – 1200 BC). Some historians speak of ancient Egyptian influence, and it appears that Arabs in Sicily also appreciated the cheese. In the literary-myth world, once imagined we can’t forget the sight of Polyphemus’ cave splendidly stocked with cheese, milk, and wicker baskets used to strain curds:

“Soon we came to the cave, and found him absent, he was grazing his well-fed flocks in the fields. So we went inside and marvelled at its contents. There were baskets full of cheeses, and pens crowded with lambs and kids, each flock with its firstlings, later ones, and newborn separated. The pails and bowls for milking, all solidly made, were swimming with whey. At first my men begged me to take some cheeses and go, then to drive the lambs and kids from the pens down to the swift ship and set sail. But I would not listen, though it would have been best, wishing to see the giant himself, and test his hospitality. When he did appear he proved no joy to my men.”

Cheesecake Material

No matter its origins, ricotta has proved popular, versatile, and beloved. I use it to make cheesecakes, and I use it on pizza night, and it has gone into myriad other dishes I’ve made, especially as a filling for pasta. I’ve modified my method of making it over the years, and have settled on one that satisfies my guests and me every time.

How’s this for simplicity: You need a milk (not ultra-pasteurized) and an acid. That’s it. Salt is optional, though I use it often, depending on what the cheese is destined for. Start with half a gallon of whole milk. Add it to a heavy-bottomed pot and, over medium heat, raise the milk’s temperature to around 180 degrees Fahrenheit, stirring occasionally. When your milk reaches that temperature it’s time to add the acid, which can be in the form of distilled white vinegar or fresh lemon juice; the former is more neutral, while the latter can impart a touch of sweetness and/or citrus flavor. The amount for both types of acid is around 42 ml, or 2 tablespoons plus 2.5 teaspoons. Add whichever you chose and stir for 20 seconds to mix. The second curds begin forming is when you stop stirring.

Now for the important step: Don’t stir again for 20 minutes, and maintain the temperature of your creation between 175 degrees and 185 degrees. Do not panic if you stray outside of that zone by a few degrees, but do endeavor to stay within that area. My method involves turning off the heat when I hit the sweet spot, then, using an instant-read thermometer, turning it back on when the temperature nears 175 to maintain my envelope. Do this for 20 minutes and you are close to making your first batch of homemade cheese.

Next, get a slotted spoon and lift the curds from the pot of milk and place them gently into a strainer lined with cheesecloth or paper towels. Make sure to not leave any curds behind, and strain for as long as you desire. If a drier product is your goal, strain longer. I find that 15-20 minutes is a good time. Use your intuition, and keep in mind how you plan to use the batch. Click here for a video of the process.

I most often use my cheese on the same day I cook it, but you can make it in advance and keep it in an airtight container in your refrigerator; it is best consumed within two days.

Homemade Ricotta

1/2 gallon whole milk
2 tablespoons plus 2.5 teaspoons distilled white vinegar or fresh lemon juice
pinch salt (optional)

1. Bring milk to 180 degrees Fahrenheit in heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, adding salt if using. When milk reaches 180 degrees add acid and stir for 10 seconds. Once curds form — and this happens quickly — stop stirring.

2. Do not stir again. Maintain the temperature of your cheese between 175 and 185 degrees for 20 minutes.

3. Line a strainer with cheesecloth or paper towels and transfer curds to the strainer using a slotted spoon. Drain to your desired moisture level, depending on how you intend to use your cheese. Keep for 2 days in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Oliver Sacks and his patients: A new article delves into those illuminating and groundbreaking relationships. (Oliver Sacks Foundation)

What I’m Reading: A Southern Rhône Legend Passes, a DRC Heist, and a New Book on California Wine

December 10, 2025 / / 0 Comments

The news never stops coming, and keeping up with everything is an impossible task. Regrettably, there are too few hours in a day that one can devote to reading, and though I attempt to stay on top of as much as I can, my stacks of newspapers, magazines, and books are always beckoning (and expanding). There’s wine and food, of course, but there’s so much more, from literature and cinema to essays and profiles. Here’s a look at a few things that caught my eye this week.

Kermit Lynch is one of my favorite wine-world personalities. He’s a legend, and his classic book, Kermit Lynch’s Adventure on the Wine Route – A Wine Buyer’s Tour of France, is a must-have. His Berkeley-based wine store, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, founded 53 years ago, is expanding for the first time. Larkspur, California, is the lucky place. Here are the details.

DRC. Those three letters attract a lot of attention in the world of wine, including the unwanted kind, as Christian Borel, wine director at L’ Auberge Provençale, knows too well. Two miscreants made off with six bottles of wine worth around $42,000 last month after Borel gave them a tour of the cellar at his family’s restaurant. “They’re stealing Romanée-Conti!”

Emmanuel Reynaud in one of his vineyards.

We’ll long remember Emmanuel Reynaud, the man who ascended to the proprietorship of Château Rayas in 1997 upon the death of his uncle Jacques. Reynaud’s wines are southern Rhône luminaries — he was also winemaker at Château des Tours, where his career began, and at Château de Fonsalette — and fetch high prices at auction. Rest in peace, Monsieur Reynaud.

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates has been purchased by a Yakima Valley family for an undisclosed sum. The Wyckoffs now own the state’s “first premium wine company,” which was founded in 1933. A private equity firm was the previous owner of Ste. Michelle; it paid $1.2 billion to Altria Group for the asset in 2021. The Woodinville, Washingon-based property keeps chugging on.

I have fond memories of my first year in New York City, quiveringly alive with excitement and eager to immerse myself in restaurants and music and theater, which I did with abandon. It was a grand time, full of luxury and semi-squalor in equal parts. Robert Sietsema also experienced a memorable headlong affair with the city, albeit years earlier than mine. Here, his Memories of East Village restaurants, circa 1977.

Martin Parr was a great photographer. His work may not suit your sensibilities, but his artistry and eye for exquisite detail are indisputable. He died last week at 73, and man, did he care for people, in all their inglorious excesses and self-delusional foibles. An image-rich life is over.

Elaine Chukan Brown has published a new book, one I look forward to reviewing. Its title is “The Wines of California” and here is Elin McCoy’s take on it.

Oliver Sacks left behind groundbreaking work, and his life was one lived to the fullest. (Oliver Sacks Foundation)

The life and work of Oliver Sacks have long fascinated me. He was a tortured genius who abused his body and mind, a writer of grace and care whose humanity and love and demons illuminated much about the mind and spirit. Rachel Aviv has written an important article about how the doctor put his self, in all of its complexity, into his case studies.

John Updike, the man and his work, might have fallen out of favor in the literary world, but he’s still in my personal canon. He was a prolific writer, and Penguin Random House recently published “Selected Letters of John Updike,” a 912-page volume sure to please all Updike fans.

I’d be remiss if I did not close this segment of “What I’m Reading” with an appreciation of Tom Stoppard, the world-creating playwright of astounding works including “Arcadia,” “Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead,” and “Leopoldstadt.” The man was physically attractive, possessed a heat-producing intellect, and made a mark on the drama world that puts him in company with the likes of Shakespeare, Beckett, Kushner, Brecht, and O’Neill. Much has been written since his death, which occurred on November 29, and I urge you to read all of the remembrances. Here, Mark Damazer gives us a place to start.

Lamb on the tasting menu at Electric Bleu.

A French/California Bistro Takes Root in Mar Vista

November 30, 2025 / / 0 Comments

The place makes me miss dining in France. Bistros in France specifically. The tables and bar, the music and laughter and (at times) chaotic activity, the service and ambiance and navigation of tight spaces. And the cuisine.

Electric Blue occupies a warm corner in Mar Vista.

I’m referring to Electric Bleu, a restaurant in Mar Vista that opened a few months ago. I’ve been there twice now, and will go again. On that third visit I would like to sit at the bar that overlooks the kitchen, or perhaps perch at the end of the bar near the wine cellar. The wine list is a good one — how about an Aligoté from Georges Lignier et Fils for $72, a Sancerre from Jean Paul Ballard for $95, a Xavier Gerard Saint-Joseph Syrah for $129, plus a small selection of sake and vermouth? — and a tightly organized by-the-glass program keeps things fresh.

Craig Hopson, the chef owner of Electric Bleu, is from Australia, and dreams of becoming a pro surfer were sustained financially by his cooking job at a restaurant in his home country. He hung up his board after discovering his true calling, and made a stop in Europe to consort with, among others, Guy Savoy, Michel Troisgros, and Alain Senderens. In New York he plied his trade at a number of restaurants, including Picholine and Le Cirque.

My first evening at Electric Bleu was a rainy one, so the outdoor patio was closed. We arrived early, around 6, and were in the company of a few other diners. That changed around 7, and the place suddenly became packed. Our small table, sandwiched between the bar and the tables along the outside wall, seemed to shrink as guests and staff maneuvered the narrow space on either side. A few tables that normally seated diners outside had been moved inside for the evening, adding to the crunch. We, however, had no complaints, and the buzz and activity added to that bistro feel.

Chanterelles, sunchokes, and hazelnuts at Electric Bleu

The food? Very memorable. Sautéed chanterelles with sunchokes, lettuce, and hazelnuts began that first meal, followed by smoked salmon on a large blini topped with trout roe and capers. A superb sausage of rabbit and bacon was my main course, and it was served over ribboned salsify, spinach, and a rabbit ragout, which was rich and warm and salty and sensual.

A large blini with smoked salmon, capers, trout roe, and dill.
A rabbit and bacon sausage with salsify and a rabbit ragout.

We closed the meal with a piece of Reblochon Reine de Dévotion.

A return to Electric Bleu on Saturday, about two weeks after the initial evening, began at that bar area near the wine cellar. We were meeting two others for dinner and ordered glasses of Aligoté and a Languedoc Blanc de Blancs. The place was already nearly full — Angelenos generally dine earlier than their NYC counterparts, in my experience — and it felt good. The staff impressed me again with their casual yet disciplined demeanor, and navigated the environs proficiently.

Hokkaido scallops, apple gelée, and mustard seeds.

Our guests arrived, we moved to a table along the wall, and the meal commenced. Two of us opted for the tasting menu ($64), a four-course affair that featured Hokkaido scallop crudo with an apple gelée and mustard seed vinaigrette to start, followed by sea bass with sweet potato, lime, and fried Brussels sprout leaves. The scallops were briny and fresh, lifted by the gelée and mustard seeds.

Sea bass and sweet potato.

The bass was cooked well, firm and moist. I wish the plating had left the skin exposed, because I love crisp fish skin, but the leaves largely gave me soggy skin. The potato chips on the plate suffered the same fate.

Lamb cooked well.

The third course, lamb, was the high point. Spinach perfectly sautéed, a citrusy gremolata-like sauce, and sliced lamb, rare on the inside, seared on the outside. Pear ice cream over poached pear ended the tasting menu in a good way. There was also pâté en croûte, and it was a fine example of that French wonder.

Pear ice cream, poached pear, and which chocolate crisps
Pâté en croûte worthy of France.

Electric Bleu has the feel of a neighborhood place, and I was told that there are already regulars. Hopson says he wants his restaurant to be a place with great food and world-class hospitality for Mar Vista and Los Angeles. It is well on its way there.

Marty Mathis and his mother, Kathryn Kennedy, in 1979. (Kathryn Kennedy Winery)

What I’m Reading: An Acre of Sylvaner, William Kennedy at 97, and a Wine Bar in Cleveland

November 21, 2025 / / 2 Comments

The news never stops coming, and keeping up with everything is an impossible task. Regrettably, there are too few hours in a day that one can devote to reading, and though I attempt to stay on top of as much as I can, my stacks of newspapers, magazines, and books are always beckoning (and expanding). There’s wine and food, of course, but there’s so much more, from literature and cinema to essays and profiles. Here’s a look at a few things that caught my eye this week.

I like Sylvaner. I first drank it years ago when I lived in Germany, and though it is not overly popular in the United States, I always try keep a few bottles on hand at home and am delighted when I find it at wine bars or restaurants. Marty Mathis, owner of Kathryn Kennedy Winery, is planting an acre of the variety on a hilltop in Santa Cruz County. He calls it “the last planting project of my life.” Esther Mobley has written a fine profile of the 67-year-old Mathis here. I look forward to tasting his Sylvaner.

Marty Mathis and his mother, Kathryn Kennedy, in 1979. (Kathryn Kennedy Winery)

We’ve all heard far too much about the woeful state of the wine industry. Health warning, the habits of younger generations, restaurant pricing … on and on it goes. According to Jeff Bitter, president of Allied Grape Growers, 2024 was not an easy one for growers. Read more here.

Haiti has long had more than its fair share of troubles, and a dinner that took place last month in Manhattan at The Bazaar did its part to help some people in that beleaguered country. Grapes for Humanity teamed with José Andrés and a number of wine-world luminaries to raise money for Hôpital Albert Schweitzer Haiti, which is the only remaining hospital in a region of 850,000 citizens. Wine to the rescue.

Kash Patel, the director of the FBI, is on a crusade to avenge a slight he received from a judge in Houston. He’s also the man carrying out Donald Trump’s scorched-earth campaign to fire everyone who ever attempted to hold the president accountable. Reading this made me ill.

Eric Texier, a vigneron based in Northern Rhône, is on a mission he calls “a post-modern, global warming compatible dream,” and we might be able to taste the fruit of his efforts in four or five years. He’s attempting to propagate four forgotten grape varieties — Exbrayat, Pougnet, Ribier Gris, and Bourrisquou — from specimens in the Conservatoire de Vassal, a repository based in France. The past, he hopes, is never truly dead.

La Cave du Vin is part of the Cleveland wine scene. (La Cave du Vin)

Headed to Cleveland? If so, here’s a good read about the city’s food and wine scene. La Cave du Vin is on my list of places to visit.

Long ago on a winter morning I was on a train bound for New Haven, “The Stories of John Cheever” in my hands. It was snowing outside and I was lost in Cheever’s imagination. When I looked up I saw a woman sitting in the seat across the aisle. It was Susan Cheever, the author’s daughter. We chatted for a bit, and then went back to our books. Fathers and daughters share a special bond.

William Kennedy as a young reporter in the 1950s, top, and with New York State Senator Pat Fahy this month at ADCo Bar & Bottle Shop in Albany. (Paul Grondahl / NYS Writers Institute)

William Kennedy, The Bard of Albany, will turn 98 on Jan. 16. But as seen, really seen, in this profile by Dan Barry, he is still the talk of the town. This piece is beautiful.

Considering moving to Portugal? You are not alone. Here’s the tale of one woman who did so. She has no regrets.

A Moving — and Humorous — Book Awards Ceremony

November 20, 2025 / / 0 Comments

The National Book Awards, 76th Edition, were bestowed last night during a ceremony in Manhattan held at Cipriani Wall Street. I watched it live on YouTube while I was cooking, and it was time well spent.

Jeff Hiller was the host, and his brand of humor was on full display; he’s a tad self-effacing and a lot of goofiness (if you have not watched “Somebody Somewhere” you are missing out). He’s also an author, and relayed a hilarious story about a typo on the cover of his book — and he was not the only speaker to give a call-out to copyeditors during the evening, a touch I appreciated.

Jeff Hiller is a funny guy. (Courtesy National Book Foundation)

The acceptance speeches of the awardees — including George Saunders’ (medal for Distinguished Contribution to American Letters) and Roxane Gay’s (Literarian Award for Outstanding Service to the American Literary Community) — were moving, and timely. The arts are vital, especially in periods when unrest and division are acutely extreme.

Here is the list of awardees:

Young People’s Literature: “The Teacher of Nomad Land: A World War II Story,” by Daniel Nayeri (Levine Querido)

Translated Literature: “We Are Green and Trembling,” by Gabriela Cabezón Cámara, translated from the Spanish by Robin Myers (New Directions Publishing)

Poetry: “The Intentions of Thunder: New and Selected Poems,” by Patricia Smith (Scribner / Simon & Schuster) (I dare you to watch her acceptance address and not cry.)

Nonfiction: “One Day, Everyone Will Have Always Been Against This,” by Omar El Akkad (Knopf / Penguin Random House)

Fiction: “The True True Story of Raja the Gullible (and His Mother),” by Rabih Alameddine (Grove Press / Grove Atlantic)

You can watch all of the moments here.

Watching this is worth your time.
Joan Didion was an accomplished cook. (Henry Clarke/Condé Nast/Shutterstock)

Turkey and Wine: Here Are Your Pairings

November 18, 2025 / / 2 Comments

Thanksgiving is the food holiday, at least in my family’s culinary tradition. My maternal grandmother made the best stuffing I’ve ever tasted, and while her Christmas fruitcakes and mincemeat pies are the stuff of legend, we always privileged Thanksgiving when it came to family holiday feasts.

I was not drinking wine as a child at those gatherings at my grandparents’ house in Savannah, but now I can’t imagine sitting down at the table on the last Thursday of November unless a few bottles are in the mix, wines selected for an occasion that likely features turkey, cranberries made your way (I like mine a bit spicy), potatoes or squash, perhaps sautéed green beans … you fill in the blank, of course, depending on your traditions. I have made shrimp as an appetizer for Thanksgiving, and last year at a Friendsgiving meal my contribution was a green chile pork stew.

Choosing the right wines to serve with your Thanksgiving feast is not rocket science. (Circe Denyer)

So, based on general American habits concerning Thanksgiving foods, and with some flexibility added for regional or familial variations, which wines should be on your menu come November? 

Word to the wise: Champagne or other sparkling wines are a must, and I will accept no debate here. You cannot go wrong selecting several bottles from this diverse category. Offer guests a glass of cava as they cross your threshold, and consider serving gougères with that Spanish treasure (I like this recipe from David Lebovitz). For the table, and if you are serving turkey, feel free to indulge your Champagne obsession and knowledge. Pair the main course with a vintage brut, and with your desserts (pumpkin pie, pecan pie, a sweet casserole) serve a demi-sec. You can also opt for a Sauternes or a Trockenbeerenauslese with your sweet dishes.

Cava is a Spanish treasure, and it’s a great addition to the Thanksgiving table. (Marcelo Verfe)

Unless you are going extremely non-traditional and plan to serve steak, avoid Cabernet Sauvignon and anything blended with that grape (and anything with robust tannins). Turkey, mashed potatoes, and your squash casserole will hate sharing the stage with with those otherwise fine wines. I’m sure you drink a lot of big Napa reds on a regular basis, so missing one day won’t damage your psyche. If you must open a bottle of your favorite big red, it would be advisable to make it something with age; softer tannins are a better fit with the lower fat level of turkey.

Chardonnay is a common refrain around this time of year, and chablis definitely has a place on your menu. Fruity and crisp, plus graced with wonderful acidity, these wines will pair well with your turkey. If you want something with a bit more oak, feel free to go that way. Better yet, serve both types and provide your guests’ palates with a chance to compare and contrast.

Two Perennial Wines
I’ll now proffer two names that have featured at my Thanksgiving table for years and years. I’m referring to Pinot Noir and Beaujolais. The tannins generally found in a good Pinot are of the softer variety, and a medium body will suit your turkey well. Cherry and mushroom notes, plus vibrant acidity, are magic at Thanksgiving. You can’t go wrong with something from Burgundy, and Oregon is another stellar source. 

Beaujolais is an easy and popular choice for Thanksgiving, and gamay’s mid-level alcohol and superb fruit profile combine to great effect at the holiday table. I served a Morgon at my inaugural Thanksgiving gathering, a decision that began my love affair with this wine.

I’ll add here — and this applies to all of your wine selections for the holiday — that it’s a good idea to sample every wine you plan to serve before you make your final decisions. Consider your palate, and the palates of your guests, as well as your particular menu, especially if your food lineup wanders off from the traditional.

Riesling is a wine that gets along well with Thanksgiving.

And now to Riesling, my liebling grape. I love to make a savory gravy from the drippings of my turkey, and the high acidity of this grape makes my mouth water, literally when eating it and when I merely think of this combination. I am also a dark meat guy, and, again, that acidity cuts through the fat and richness of a turkey leg and stuffing made from the gizzards, heart, and liver. Buy a few dry and off-fry versions of Riesling and sample them, based on your menu.

The Guests are the Stars
No matter what you serve with your Thanksgiving feast, don’t stress. I’ve given you some tried-and-true options, but do not feel hemmed in by my guide, except for that Cabernet Sauvignon advice. In addition, there’s no need to be a wine snob on this special Thursday. Sure, you might want to impress your guests with your taste and knowledge, but the wines aren’t the star here, and neither are you. Your grandmother might prefer a Chardonnay rich with oak, or uncle Joe’s love could be White Zinfandel. What better way to show them you care than putting “their” bottles at their places at the table for their sole consumption, a gesture that need not interfere with the rest of your wines? 

A meal in Malibu: Joan Didion, her daughter, Quintana Roo, and husband, John Gregory Dunne. (Henry Clarke/Condé Nast/Shutterstock)

To close, I urge you to read this piece, which was published today in The New York Times; it is a beautiful story about Joan Didion’s love for Thanksgiving dinner. The author, who passed away in 2021, was a thoughtful cook, and she planned meticulous holiday dinners. From Patrick Farrell’s article: “It has always seemed like such an awful holiday,” a friend wrote her after one dinner, “but you made it something quite wonderful.”

Leave a comment and let me know what you’ll be pouring on Thanksgiving.

Jancis Robinson has a lot to say. (Wikipedia)

What I’m Reading: Cabernet SauvignJohn, Canadian Woes, and Cringe ‘Foodies’

November 3, 2025 / / 0 Comments

The news never stops coming, and keeping up with everything is an impossible task. There are only so many hours in a day that one can devote to reading, and though I attempt to be on top of as much as I can, my stacks of newspapers and books are always beckoning (and expanding). There’s wine and food, of course, but there’s so much more. Here’s a look at a few things that caught my eye this week.

I admire the work John Oliver does on a weekly basis on his HBO show. He’s funny, he’s serious, and he and his team offer up an entertaining mix of well-researched and cogent episodes on everything from Trump’s latest moves to consumer-protection shortcomings to beaver cakes. And now, he’s selling Cabernet SauvignJohn and donating “a total of $50,000 to 16 food banks in California.” What a mensch.

John Oliver: A funny, and serious, man. (Wikipedia)

Oh, Canada. Losing a thriller to the Dodgers on Saturday wasn’t enough, it seems. On top of that defeat, some wine grape farmers in British Columbia are stuck with tons of fruit they are unable to sell, thanks in part to a program that allows the importation of grapes from, you guessed it, America. Talk about grapes of wrath …

It’s been too long since I’ve been to ProWein, something I need to rectify. It’s a great fair in a great city. Here’s a look at the future of the Düsseldorf-based wine and spirits extravaganza, as relayed from the horse’s mouth, director Frank Schindler.

What would you do if you fell into a ravine while cycling home from the market and were stuck there for three days? Well, you might do what a French senior citizen did and survive on the wine you had purchased at the store.

John Ash was a culinary legend in Napa Valley, known as “the father of wine country cuisine.” He passed away on Aug. 7, and on Saturday a crowd of his admirers gathered in Santa Rosa to remember the man and chef. The tributes were moving.

The roster of American Viticulture Areas gained a new member recently when the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau gave the go-ahead for North Carolina’s Tryon Foothills AVA. The area encompasses 176 square miles and has more than 77 acres of vines.

I’ve never like the word “foodie,” and cringe when I hear it uttered. And while I am an admirer of “The Bear,” I am over the spoiled, performative, overly demanding restaurant diner who eats for the spectacle. This chef is as well. No, your emotional support boa constrictor cannot be seated.

Jancis Robinson (Wikipedia)

Jancis Robinson needs no introduction. The grande dame of of wine writing has been on the beat for half a century, and her words matter. She sat down recently with Esther Mobley and discussed her career, which has taken her across the globe, and the changing world of California wine, among other topics. Here’s Jancis (unlocked gift article).

Have you seen “One Battle After Another”? I have not yet, but it’s on my screening list. I have a friend who has seen it three times, and, needless to say, he likes it. Paul Thomas Anderson has directed a number of films I love, most notably “There Will Be Blood” and “Phantom Thread.” (Yes, Daniel Day-Lewis is my favorite actor.) Great cinema, and great criticism … here from Jonathan Lethem, who has a lot to sat about the latest film starring DiCaprio and del Toro.

“Man Reading” by John Singer Sargent

Sad but true: Americans spend about 17 minutes a day reading (not including incessant scrolling and watching videos on a mobile phone). That fact has a lot to do with the dire and distressing political issues the United States is facing. Noah McCormack posits that the history of literacy is the history of class. Read it and weep.

Kate Payne Brown assumed the winemaker title at Argyle Winery this year.

Champagne is Grand, But So Are These Three Sparkling Wines

October 31, 2025 / / 0 Comments

Sparkling wine — be it Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or anything else with bubbles and alcohol that is made well — is something I never take for granted. I counsel anyone who will listen to me to have a bottle or two chilling in the refrigerator at all times. I know I am at the right place when I visit a friend’s home or am a guest at a dinner party and the host offers a glass of sparkling to begin the evening.

The holiday season is drawing near, and even if you are not someone who partakes of sparkling wines on, say, a weekly basis, chances are high that you’ll add some bottles of Champagne or Cava to your shopping list between now and the end of the year. There’s nothing better to kick off a festive gathering, be it a dinner party or a garden soirée, and the elegance of a sparkling wine sets an intimate and relaxed tone, one that encourages conversation and creates good cheer.

I’ll be publishing a number of articles — including gift guides — leading up to the holiday season that will feature sparkling wines, from vintage grower Champagnes to Cava and cider, but to kick off the celebrations my tastings this week focus on three sparkling wines that represent outstanding value, each commendable in its own way. No Champagne here, but this is a delicious roster nonetheless.

Up first, the 2022 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Blanc de Blancs. It follows on from the inaugural 2021 vintage, the first ever sparkling wine made by the St. Helena-based brand, which was established by Margaret and Dan Duckhorn in 1976. This méthode champenoise wine is 100 percent Chardonnay from cool-climate vineyards in the Los Carneros region of Napa Valley Carneros, including El Veredicto, which is owned by Duckhorn.

Cheese or oysters? Pairing either with this sparkling wine is a good decision.

Renée Ary made 175 cases of this wine, which has a suggested retail price of $64. Alcohol is 12.5 percent, and aging took place for 10 months in 70 percent neutral French oak and 30 percent in second-vintage barrels. Tirage: 32 months.

Renée Ary, the fourth ever winemaker in Duckhorn’s history, was named to the position in 2014. (Bob McClenahan)

What I especially like about this wine is its fine and detailed effervescence and the lovely brioche notes it possesses. Apple and citrus sing on the palate, and a velvety/decadent mouthfeel complete the experience. It’s a great bottle to open at the beginning of a meal, and as for food, I paired it with a selection of cheeses — a Camembert, some Brie, and a Gorgonzola — and heard no complaints. I have another bottle on hand and its destiny is a date with a platter of Kumamoto oysters come December. Overall a commendable domestic sparkling wine.

We’ll remain on the West Coast of the United States for our next bottle, which is the 2019 Argyle Blanc de Blancs ($30 SRP, and I have found the ’19 for around $20 on several retail sites). Nate Klostermann, who celebrated his 20th harvest at Argyle in 2024, made some amazing wines at the estate, for which he became head winemaker in 2013. He stepped down earlier this year and was succeeded by Kate Payne Brown.

This inexpensive selection — the 2022 vintage is the current release — is 100 percent Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley, specifically Knudsen and Spirit Hill vineyards. If you are searching for a sparkling wine to serve at dinner parties or to become your everyday house selection, this is an ideal candidate. You might even consider doing what I did and get a few bottles of the ’19 and the ’22 and conduct a tasting panel to compare and contrast.

A wine that represents outstanding value in the domestic sparkling world.

Freshness is the word to know here, followed closely by precision. From the minute you pour this wine into your stem you sense Klostermann’s exacting approach. It’s a focused offering, one that drinks far above its cost. Scents of lively citrus and white flowers proceed to delicate brioche and concise mineral acidity on the palate — do serve this in a bowl stem, as opposed to a flute, because you want to accentuate the bouquet.

Nate Klostermann in an Argyle vineyard. (Argyle)
Kate Payne Brown became head winemaker at Argyle earlier this year. (Argyle)

Klostermann made 2,200 cases of the 2019, and Dijon clones 76, 95, and 96 were involved. It was aged en tirage for 30 months, and its fine bubbles are pleasing and sensual. I’ll return to oysters again when thinking of food pairings, but at a recent meal my dining companion and I enjoyed this wine with dishes of shrimp dumplings and fried chicken legs at Si! Mon, a restaurant near Venice Beach.

Si! Mon’s ‘Afro-Caribbean’ shrimp dumplings, one of my favorite dishes of 2025, includes a coconut bisque and charred scallion oil.
The fried chicken legs at Si! Mon.

Rounding out this sparkling wine sampler is a fun Rosso Cònero DOC Pétillant Naturel from Garofoli. I’ve never taken to using the (to my sensibilities) too-cute phrase “pét-nat,” but don’t let my formal approach ruin your fun. And this wine, the Pét Kon Vino Rosato Frizzante, is nothing if not fun. It retails for the grand sum of $18, it is 100 percent Montepulciano, it has a bouncing, frisky fizz, and it pairs wonderfully well with hamburgers and pizza.

Winemaker Carlo Garofoli ages this unfiltered wine for five months in the bottle, following whole-cluster fermentation and partial carbonic maceration in stainless steel tanks.

Your burger pairing has arrived.

I love the color of this wine, a tempting, slightly cloudy salmon pink that playfully attracts the eye. Aromas of red berries — cherry and raspberry in an appealing manner — and on the palate a touch of mint, coupled with cherry and those aforementioned berries, plus lemon, result in a fresh, and refreshing, pour. Yes, you can open a bottle of this crown-closure wine to serve with your favorite hamburger, but an evening spent at table with the Pét Kon, a few friends, and fresh pupusas, barbacoa tacos, and grilled garlicky shrimp would be perfect.

Garafoli dates its founding to 1871, and is still a family concern, overseeing four estate vineyards encompassing 128 acres. Wines produced include Verdicchio deli Castelli di Jesi, Rosso Piceno, and Verdicchio di Matelica. The family also purchases fruit from growers and produces approximately 2,000,000 bottles a year.

Three sparkling wines at three price points, each a fine value and worth adding to your holiday shopping list. Up next, along with the usual mix, a few vintage Champagnes, some Cava, and a list of items for those searching for wine- and food-centric gifts.

Dan Fredman pours Champagne at this year's World of Pinot Noir.

World of Pinot Noir Comes to LA

October 24, 2025 / / 0 Comments

The annual World of Pinot Noir extravaganza is a great event to attend; I was there this year for the first time, and look forward to the 2026 edition. More than 200 Pinot producers poured their wines and the seminars, lunches, and dinners were thoughtful and informative.

Alma Rosa winemaker Samra Morris, right, at this year’s World of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara with Angela Shah and me.

As an appetizer to the main event, Wally’s Presents: WOPN LA is taking place on Oct. 25, and if you like Pinot Noir now is the time to get your tickets (purchase here). The Pacific Design Center is the venue, and from 2 p.m. until 5:30 p.m. you can taste wines from Alma Rosa, Calera, Bien Nacido, Dusty Nabor Wines, Kosta Browne, Presqu’ile Winery, and many other producers. Tickets are $125, and if you use promo code WOPN2025 you can save $50 if you buy two.

Dan Fredman pours Champagne at this year’s World of Pinot Noir.

I hope to see you there.

I Stumbled Upon a Painting I Like

October 18, 2025 / / 0 Comments

I’m in the Santa Ynez Valley for the Santa Barbara Vintners Festival and while having a pre-dinner drink last night in Los Alamos I came across a painting hanging on a wall in a wine bar. It caught my eye among the many other pieces of art displayed around it. It took me back to a time and place I recall fondly, a time of Southern Gothic visions and Flannery O’Connor and Savannah and Athens, Georgia. The music was good.

James Love All the Lady’s?

“I came here as a man of visions. I was sent here as a man of visions, like a second Noah. I’m not Noah but I’m here as a second Noah. I’m here as a red light is in the street.”

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