Mise en Place

Tag: Pinot Noir (Page 2 of 3)

Nick and Adam Franscioni's great-grandfather came to California from Switzerland in 1886. You might have heard of their father, Gary, who began the family's wine adventure. (Richard Green Photo)

Brothers in Wine: Adam and Nick Franscioni Talk Pinot Noir, Family, and ROAR

September 29, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.

In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well. 

One thing (among many) to which I am looking forward when we can venture forth and mingle with those outside of our quarantine pods is meeting in person some of the individuals I have met during Zoom virtual tastings and seminars. Adam and Nick Franscioni are two of those people.

The brothers — and sons of Gary and Rosella Franscioni — participated in a Santa Lucia Highlands AVA gathering and seminar (virtual) to which I was invited, and their enthusiasm and dedication appealed to me immediately.

Adam is the vineyard manager at ROAR — the Franscioni family’s label — and Nick holds the position of winery manager. Adam graduated from the University of San Diego, and joined the family business in 2011, while his brother has a degree from USC and, following a stint in the consulting world, began working at ROAR in 2017.

ROAR was founded by Gary and Rosella in 2001 (Scott Shapley has been their winemaker since 2012), and the wines the family produces — Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier — need to be on your radar screen and in your inventory.

After the SLH virtual seminar, I knew I wanted to feature Adam and Nick in Wine Talk, and here they are:

James Brock: How has COVID-19 changed your work and life?

Nick Franscioni: Outside of our workplace, it completely shut down our market visits and tasting events. At work, it hasn’t had a significant impact, since our winery team consists of just three people and our vineyard team maintains a natural spacing of 6 to 8 feet per vineyard row. We are small but mighty!

The bright side is that we have spent more family time and meals together. Also, we have a new family member to welcome, and that has brought a lot of excitement for us. We are excited for my brother Adam and his wife, Tamara.

Rosella’s Vineyard is named after Rosella Franscioni, Nick and Adam’s mother. It was planted in 1996 and is composed of Arroyo Seco sandy loam. (Wildly Simple Productions)

JB:Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?

Adam Franscioni: My wife and I are always fans of Champagne, and we are enjoying Champagne Gonet-Medeville Premier Cru Brut, ( around $30 a bottle). We love the bang for your buck. It is so fresh and has beautiful apple crisp notes. We pair it with blue cheese or Salmon.

Next, the 2016 Walt Bob’s Ranch ($80 a bottle). Walt is a label of Hall Wines and Bob’s Ranch is their part of their estate fruit. They always make great wines and their Bob’s Ranch is no different. I am enjoying it with lamb.

And Jacob Toft 2017 Mary Jane’s Cuvée ($60 a bottle). Jacob Toft is small label located in Paso Robles, and the Mary Jane’s Cuvée is their GSM blend. The winemaker sources from great Paso Robles vineyards, and this wine is just fun. A lot of dark, red fruit and the tannins are beautiful. It’s a very complex wine. I usually enjoy this bottle with steak.

JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why?

NF: My pick is very cliché, but I’m okay with that. Romanée-Conti. My reasoning is because it is consistently heralded as the most fascinating and desirable piece of history in wine. More important than the wine itself is the place that it comes from and the hands that carried it. I would take 1989 vintage as a birth year, please).

JB: What is your favorite varietal, and why?

AF: That’s a tough question, as I enjoy a lot of varietals, but I’d have to say Pinot Noir is probably my favorite because of it s versatility. It goes well with so many meals, yet you can find Pinot Noirs that can stand alone on their own. Whatever the social situation calls for there is a Pinot Noir out there to enhance the experience.

Rosella’s Vineyard is the source of some outstanding Pinot Noir. (Nick Franscioni Photo)

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day? 

NF: A great family friend of ours is winemaker Adam Lee. Adam makes wines under several labels nowadays, and one of the most special Pinot Noir bottlings comes from our home ranch, Rosella’s Vineyard. He created a new label called Clarice in honor of his own family member. The 2018 vintage was very special in California and one that has incredible aging potential. After tasting this bottling, I am sure that it is bound to dance and delight for the next decade and beyond.

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle? COVID-19 has put a crimp on going out, but pre-pandemic, where did you go?

AF: Spruce Restaurant in San Francisco. They have an amazing by-the-glass menu and their food is unreal. 

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

NF: Think about what type of wines you enjoy, and more specifically what exactly you love about those wines. Whether it’s the fruit, the spice, the herbs, whatever … take note of those things you love to taste and that will help you find more of the wines you enjoy.

Gary, Nick, and Adam Franscioni during harvest. (Richard Green Photo)

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

AF: It was December 2012 and I was at a Pinot Noir blind tasting amongst friends.  Most people brought Burgundy and we guessed AOC’s until we were blue in the face. Most of the wines were young (2008-2010), so they weren’t hitting their stride yet. But one wine stole the show — it was a 1985 Chalone Vineyard Pinot Noir. I could not believe how fresh it was still tasting. We all thought it was Old World. It was so fun to see that California wine could age that well and it taught me about judging wines before tasting them.

JB: What has been the strangest moment or incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?

NF: Well, at the ripe age of 10, I was visiting France with my family for a summer vacation and experienced my first barrel tasting, for which I was busy training my palate. We quickly learned that I could not hold my liquor after stumbling around, blowing out candles, and using “adult” words. Our French guide was notably courteous and asked that I be excused. My memory is hazy from that day, but it is a moment that no one else will forget.

The Sierra Mar Vineyard’s Island Block. The vineyard, planted in 2007, is situated 1,100 feet above sea level, and is marked by decomposed granite and gravelly loam. (Richard Green Photo)

JB: What is your favorite wine reference in a work of literature or in a film?

AF: “Sideways” has two moments that I appreciate. I loved the end scene in which Paul Giamatti’s character is drinking 1961 Chateau Chevval Blanc at what appears to be an In-N-Out. I found that so funny and, sadly, something I might find myself doing. 

A thin skin, temperamental …

He also has a beautiful line about Pinot Noir in the middle of the movie. It still rings true to me: “It’s uh, it’s thin-skinned, temperamental, ripens early. It’s, you know, it’s not a survivor like Cabernet, which can just grow anywhere and, uh, thrive even when it’s neglected. No, Pinot needs constant care and attention.”

Want more wine? Read on:

Two Bottles From Priest Ranch
A Derby Day Cocktail
Nate Klostermann is Making Some Great Sparkling Wines in Oregon
Matt Dees and the Electric Acidity of Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay
Baudelaire, Pinot Noir, and Rosé: Kathleen Inman’s Passions
Colombia, France, and California: This Winemaker is a Complex Woman
Michael Kennedy Talks Sailing and Zinfandel
Spain Opened the World of Wine for Spottswoode’s Aron Weinkauf
Alta Colina’s Molly Lonborg Wants a Bottle of Château Rayas
Mumm Napa’s Tami Lotz Talks Wine and Oysters
James MacPhail on Pinot Noir, White Burgundy, and Russell Crowe
A Very Proper Sparkling Wine
Talking With David Ramey
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Nate Klostermann loves sparkling wines, and he's been making some great ones in the Willamette Valley.

Argyle’s Nate Klostermann on Riesling, Rainy Harvests, and Townes Van Zandt

August 27, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.

In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well. 

Earlier this year, I received a few bottles of wine whose arrival made be happy. Very happy. I was excited because I had not had a taste of Argyle sparkling in about five years, and a bottle of it was in the box. It was a 2016 Vintage Brut.

A few days later, the bottle properly chilled, I opened the Brut. It was excellent, as I expected. If you are not familiar with Argyle, I promise that you want to get to know the winery and its offerings, which include — but are not limited to — Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Rieslings, and Pinot Meuniers.

Looking for a sparkling wine for your table? The 2016 Argyle Vintage Brut is one to consider.

The 2016 Vintage Brut is a continuation of what began in 1987, when Rollin Soles went on a mission to produce great sparkling wines in the Willamette Valley. In order to do so, he would need to grow outstanding Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

More than three decades later, it is widely held that Soles accomplished what he set out to do. The estate program he envisioned and developed now encompasses more than 400 planted acres.

Rollin Soles, who grew up in the Dallas-Fort Worth suburbs, hangs out with some fine people. (Courtesy Rollin Soles)

Enter Nate Klostermann, who is the subject of this Wine Talk. He succeeded Soles as winemaker at Argyle in 2013, having been chosen by the man himself after serving as his trainee for eight years. Soles has good taste, and is a discerning judge of character, because Klostermann’s portfolio is full of noteworthy vintages.

The Knudsen Vineyard, in the Dundee Hills AVA, is planted with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Petit Meunier.

Klostermann was born and raised in rural Wisconsin, and has a degree in food science from the University of Minnesota. The hobby of home brewing sparked an interest in wine, and he took a job at Falconer Vineyards — located in Red Wing, Minnesota — an experience that cemented his career path.

I like Klostermann’s approach to winemaking; he loves to experiment (skin soaking, mixing ripeness levels, whole cluster), and he’s making wines that will last.

In addition to the Brut, I also sampled the 2018 Argyle Nuthouse Pinot Noir, and the 2018 Nuthouse Chardonnay, both of which are drinking well. (I have another bottle of the Pinot cellared away.) My next Argyle tasting will be Riesling-centric. I look forward to visiting the Willamette Valley next year, and Argyle will be on the itinerary.

Let’s see what Klostermann has on his mind.

James Brock: How has COVID-19 changed your work and life?

Nate Klostermann: The daily operations in the winery have slowed down a bit in terms of pace and spacing with bottling and disgorging, but we have been lucky in that we have such a spacious facility, we’ve been able to keep good distance from each other. We’ve been tasting and blending wines outdoors more recently, which has brought a new and interesting aspect to the interpretations of the wines. No more travel, public tastings, or wine dinners, but the Zoom tasting experience has been positive in that we can interact with more tasters across the globe. 

JB: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?

NK: 2009 Argyle Extended Tirage Brut ($80) — Disgorged one year ago, this wine is really coming together, highlighting the freshness of recent disgorgement with the deep and complex palate of extended lees aging. I like to drink this on its own to feel the different levels on their own, but I would pair with grilled prawns. 

2018 Argyle Nuthouse Riesling ($30) — I love the depth of the 2018 Riesling vintage; it really builds power and length with incredible acidity. We’ve been experimenting with extended barrel aging on our Riesling in the last five years, and I think we’ve hit the sweet spot of freshness and depth at about 11 months of aging. It’s a great food wine; I always gravitate to Southeast Asian, as it can pair with so many foods from there. We’ve developed an annual tradition of including a food pairing only for the Riesling in the tasting notes since 2003 — this year I’ve chosen Cao lầu from Hội An, Vietnam, a rice noodle dish with pork and greens. 

2018 Pray Tell Chardonnay ($40) — Fresh, vibrant, subtle spiciness, incredible length, and purity. This is very small production, made by a wonderful husband and wife duo in McMinnville whom I adore. Their wines are both serious and playful, and are a treat to get your hands if you can catch them in time. My favorite pairing with this wine is Oregon Dungeness crab with lots of melted butter and flaky sea salt. 

JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why?

1979 Krug, Clos du Mesnil. I’d love to try any of these Clos du Mesnil wines from this era, but 1979 was the first vintage of this bottling and I feel would be an incredible glimpse into the historical style of blanc de blancs, which is my favorite style of Champagne. 

JB: What is your favorite grape, and why?

NK: Chardonnay is my favorite grape because there are so many beautiful expressions throughout the world, both with still wine and sparkling wine. 

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day? 

NK: I would recommend the 2018 Nuthouse Pinot Noir to lay down for 10 years. With incredible balance of depth and freshness, it also has firm structure from the Eola-Amity Hills that will age gracefully and provide tension for many years to come. 

Pinot Noir and Argyle are a great team.

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle? COVID-19 has put a crimp on going out, but pre-pandemic, where did you go?

NK: My favorite two places to drink and explore Champagne are in Portland: Ambonnay and Pix Pâtisserie/Bar Vivant. They have incredible curation and a selection of wines at great prices from the two most passionate Champagne heads I know. 

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

NK: Sparkling wines should be drunk more often than just on special occasions and celebrations. Incredibly versatile and food friendly, they should be enjoyed year-round and with foods of all kinds. 

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

NK: My “aha moment” was when I started as an intern at Argyle in 2005, tasting a freshly disgorged 1995 Extended Tirage Brut. I was young and was just starting to learn about sparkling wine. I was blown away by the time invested, precision, love, and purity that went into it. Explosive freshness, deep complexity — the idea that you could make a wine like this for a living got me hooked and has kept me continually engaged in the exploration of long-aged sparkling wines. 

JB: What has been the strangest moment or incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?

NK: The strangest/most challenging moment in my career was the harvest of 2013. The fruit was right on the edge of ripeness and Mother Nature opened up a deluge of rain upon the Valley. Some say that we got 8 inches in one weekend. It was my first harvest officially being in charge. Grapes were exploding on the vine and juicing out on the trucks. We had to drink a lot of whiskey to get through it. Thankfully, we were still able to make some excellent prestige wines that year, despite the challenging vintage.  

Townes Van Zandt: “Now I’ve seen the light and heard the word
And I’m staying away from that ol’ dirty Thunderbird
A message come from heaven radiant, and fine,
All I drink now is communion wine
Six days a week”

JB: What is your favorite wine reference in a work of literature or a film?

Townes Van Zandt, Talking Thunderbird Wine Blues. Favorite songwriter of all time … playful, dark, brilliant 

Want More Wine? Read on:

Matt Dees and the Electric Acidity of Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay
Baudelaire, Pinot Noir, and Rosé: Kathleen Inman’s Passions
Colombia, France, and California: This Winemaker is a Complex Woman
Michael Kennedy Talks Sailing and Zinfandel
Spain Opened the World of Wine for Spottswoode’s Aron Weinkauf
Alta Colina’s Molly Lonborg Wants a Bottle of Château Rayas
Mumm Napa’s Tami Lotz Talks Wine and Oysters
James MacPhail on Pinot Noir, White Burgundy, and Russell Crowe
A Very Proper Sparkling Wine
Talking With David Ramey
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

It's simple to make, and it is good.

Meatballs and Cauliflower a Comforting Casserole Make

August 20, 2020 / / 2 Comments

I often share images of dishes that I make, and since early March of this year, I have been posting them on Facebook under the title Lockdown Kitchen at The Brockhaus.

Almost as often, I am asked to share recipes of the dishes, something I don’t do as often as I’d like to. Well, I am going to rectify that, beginning with this piece.

For a week or so, I have been meaning to use a cauliflower I bought about 10 days ago. I like to roast the cruciferous vegetable, and I recently sautéed some florets and served them in a pasta dish. This time, however, I did something different.

With this head of cauliflower, I made a casserole, adapted from a recipe I found in the Los Angeles Times (link here). Ben Mims wrote it, and here’s how I made the dish (feel free to use separate baking gratins if you wish):

Ingredients

1 head cauliflower
salt, fresh black pepper
1 pound ground beef (or lamb, pork, or a mixture of the three)
1 medium white onion, chopped
4 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons EVOO
1.5 cups whole milk (or preferably, 2 cups heavy cream)
3 cups cheese
red chili flakes to taste (optional)

  • Heat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Trim the head of cauliflower and separate it into bite-size florets (wash them before cooking, of course). Put one cup of water in a large skillet over medium heat, season with salt and pepper, and add florets. Cover and bring to a boil for 2-3 minutes, uncover and stir. Cook for 4 minutes more.
  • Place florets in large baking dish. In same skillet, sautée onion in olive oil until soft. Add onions to cauliflower in baking dish.
  • Using your fingers, separate beef — 80 lean/20 fat — (I’m going to use lamb next time, and pork would work as well) into small pieces — think the size of a dime — and then spread Dijon mustard over the beef. Add some some salt and pepper, and if you want to replicate my recipe, squirt a tablespoon or two of Sriracha over the mixture. You might also throw in some diced peppers (Serrano, jalapeño … or). Mix well, but do not overheat your meat. (Here is where I added the chili flakes.)
Beef, Dijon mustard, Sriracha sauce, and salt and pepper
  • Make meatballs. I followed Mims’ recipe and rolled walnut-size meatballs. Arrange them on top of the cauliflower florets.
  • I was out of cream, so I used whole milk in this step. Poured about 1.5 cups over the meatballs and cauliflower. I would have preferred cream, or at least half-and-half. However, the results were more than satisfactory using milk.
Comfort food
  • I had Cheddar and mozzarella on hand, so that’s what I used. Mims calls for 3 cups, and I concur. But you can add more if you wish. Never less. I grated the Cheddar over the top of the mixture, and tore the mozzarella into small pieces and distributed them evenly in the baking dish.
  • Put dish into the 450F oven, and bake for 15 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add about 2 .5 cups of Panko breadcrumbs to the oil, and stir well. Cook until toasted. Season with salt and pepper.
  • Remove dish from oven, spread Panko over the top of the cauliflower and meatballs in an even layer, and cook for another 10 minutes or so, until the top is browned and crisp.
  • Remove your dinner from the oven and allow it to sit for 5 minutes.
It is done …
A Pinot Noir from the Sta. Rita Hills AVA was a great pairing.

I served this in bowls with a handful of baby arugula nestled on top. We drank a Pinot Noir (a 2017 from Alma Rosa) with it. The evening was a good one.

Matt Dees and Chardonnay: an evolving, dynamic relationship.

Matt Dees and the Electric Acidity of Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay

August 14, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.

In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well. 

What initially drew me to this winemaker was the way he talks about soil and rocks. I have read many interviews with (and stories about) Matt Dees, and immediately after finishing the first one I wanted to feature him in Wine Talk.

My journey with wine began in Germany, during high school, which I attended in the Pfalz. Riesling was my first companion, of course (it is still my favorite traveling mate wine-wise). Early on, I learned about and came to appreciate the qualities of slate and granite and limestone and greywacke (and many more types of soils and rocks) and how they affected and nurtured vines and imparted flavor and other characteristics. I became a lifelong amateur researcher in the field. So Dees appealed to me immediately. (And little did I know that he also likes Nina Simone, one of my favorite musicians.)

Dees, who studied plant and soil science at the University of Vermont, has been the winemaker for The Hilt and Jonata since 2004, and loves to talk dirt, in all its forms.

In 2014, a 3,600-acre piece of land (the famed Rancho Salsipuedes) that includes two prime vineyards — Radian and Bentrock — became part of Dees’ Hilt playground, and his creativity and experimentation in Santa Barbara County have been running wild, much to my delight. I plan to store up as much of his wines as I can, because I know they are bottles I will enjoy drinking for the rest of my life.

A little background on Dee’s three projects (all owned by Stanley Kroenke, the man in charge of Screaming Eagle and the Los Angeles Rams, among other things): Jonata, located in Ballard Canyon in the Santa Ynez Valley (around 5,000 cases a year, with recent bottle prices ranging from $185 for a 2015 El Alma de Jonata, $160 for the 2016 La Sangre de Jonata, and $80 for a 2015 Felix — all prices from wine.com ); The Hilt, based in the Sta. Rita Hills (7,000-8,000 cases annually … look for a 2016 Old Guard Chardonnay for $70, the ’16 Vanguard Chardonnay for $65, and the 2017 Vanguard Pinot Noir for $17); and The Paring (15,000-16,000 cases per annum, wines “made from vineyard blocks that are either too young or don’t fit into the vintage style” of Jonata and The Hilt selections — try the 2016 Sauvignon Blanc for $23, the 2015 Paring Red for $27, or the 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir for 2018). There’s something for all budgets here.

A fine trio of Chardonnay

Last month, I had the pleasure of participating in a Zoom tasting with Dees and sampling three of his The Hilt Chardonnays — a 2017 Estate, the 2018 Radian Vineyard, and a 2012 Vanguard. It was a satisfying day, to say the least. The contents of the bottles were singing beautifully.

Dees, who was born in Kansas City, is as engaging live as he comes across in articles and interviews, and he’s someone I know I’d enjoying share a long meal with. (Note his food pairings below, and you’ll no doubt conclude he is a serious and thoughtful eater and drinker, my favorite type of person.)

Drinking these wines reaffirmed my enthusiasm for Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay; Dees speaks of its “electric acidity,” and if you have not experienced it, do so as soon as you can. I look forward to meeting this gifted winemaker in person one day, but until then, here he is in Wine Talk.

James Brock: How has COVID-19 changed your work and life?

Matt Dees: In terms of my job, we’ve changed our approach as a winemaking team. We are wearing masks and keeping distance. We now have two teams with two different bathrooms, two different dining tables, two different coffee makers, etc.

In the vineyard, we are working in smaller teams and keeping them as far apart as possible. Beyond the day-to-day changes in routine, I’d have to say that I’ve had far more time to myself than I’m used to. I’ve never had so much time and space to myself in the vineyard. I’ve really been able to closely watch all the subtle changes in the vines over the growing season. I definitely have a more intimate understanding of our property and our vines after this time alone.

In the cellar, I’ve become my own worst enemy with all this newfound space and alone time. I’ve been tasting our wines so much more these past few months. I’ve never spent so much time in my own head tweaking and tweaking blends. My blending neurosis and self-doubt surely put Woody Allen to shame.

An excellent choice …

JB: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?

MD: 2015 Jean-Marc Vincent Auxey-Duresses “Les Hautes.” One of my absolute favorite Burgundy producers. I always grab bottles of this blend whenever I can find it. Like all his bottlings, this is vibrant and precise with depth and power. All the things I love so much about white Burgundy. We just enjoyed this bottle with black cod en papillote. 

2013 Franck Balthazar “Cornas Sans Soufre Ajouté”. My goodness! We just popped this bottle a week ago, and it stunned me. Such an elegant wine with incredible structure. Isn’t Cornas just about perfect? I loved it. Wish I had more. I seem to recall that this worked incredibly well with grilled Portobello mushroom tacos.

2017 The Hilt Estate Chardonnay. I’m so excited about the energy, tension, and salinity that shines in our estate Chardonnay bottling. In 2017, the green citrus notes are at the forefront, and they seem to welcome so many different food pairings. Our go-to dinner pairing at home is a simple lemon-and-garlic roast chicken. It’s a Sunday-night tradition these days, and is such a welcome celebration with our family. 

JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why?

MD: As a history buff and a lover of classic Bordeaux, I’d absolutely love to taste a great bottle from a top-growth chateau from 1865. That’s not even classic Bordeaux, that’s “ancient and old school” Bordeaux. That’s before phylloxera and even before the familiar cast of characters (grape-wise) had settled in. I would just be fascinated. If anyone wants to share a bottle, just give me 24 hours notice! I’ll be there.

A few selections from The Paring

JB: What is your favorite grape, and why?

MD: I’ve got a pretty serious love affair going these days with Chardonnay. Ditto with Cabernet Franc, but let’s focus on what I’m drinking as I write this.

When I moved to Santa Barbara, back in 2004, Chardonnay probably wouldn’t have even cracked my list of the 100 grapes I wanted to work with for the rest of my life. If it had, it would have been 98 or 99, and that would have been after some French hybrids and a couple of extremely esoteric Russian varieties. No joke.

Now, fast-forward 16 years and it is number 1 on my list. It is a magical variety that has the ability to express the site, soil characteristics, aspect, elevation, etc. so clearly and with such precision. Some see this extreme malleability as a fault or weakness, but for me this is the crux of its true beauty. Its natural acidity is such an important factor in California wines today and should be a driving force in the years to come.

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day? 

MD: A 2015 El Desafio de Jonata. Our Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend from our estate vineyard in Ballard Canyon. Mother nature gave us these tiny clusters with BB shot-sized berries and then perfect conditions throughout the harvest. The Cabernet Sauvignon fermentations went without a hitch, and we were able to capture all the quantitatively massive and quantitatively exquisite tannins. This wine needs time, but has so much fruit density to go along with its currently imposing stature and structure. In 10 years it’ll be just coming into its own. It should be a beauty. Also good drinking today with a long decant.

Matt Dees urges you to open the “big bottles” early in the evening.

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle? COVID-19 has put a crimp on going out, but pre-pandemic, where did you go?

MD: My favorite place to have a glass/bottle and more often than not, a magnum, is my brother’s home in Los Angeles. I take my family down and we join forces with my brother’s large family. We sit around a table, break bread together, pop some beautiful corks and have conversations that matter. I can picture the sun setting over Los Angeles. I miss it and I miss them. Looking forward to that opportunity again soon.

A sampling of Jonata …

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

MD: I think many of us find a really special bottle that we want to share with our family and friends. We plan a special night and a special meal together. Our guests show up (or used to show up, and will again one day!) and we welcome them with sparkling or beers and passed apps. We start with some fresh and easy white bottles. We might even open a few other nice bottles before we sit down and get into the main event: the bottle of impact and importance.

As humans, we’ve evolved to have the sharpest senses when we’re hungry and thirsty. By eating and drinking our way through the early hours of the evening, we’ve dumbed down our ability to sense and appreciate the beauty and special nature of the bottle in question. Next time, greet your guests with a glass of the “big” bottle, or at least make an effort to enjoy it earlier in the evening. If it is too late in the evening, it might as well be light beer.

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

MD: Drinking the 1995 Staglin Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and the 1989 Château Certan de May in New York City with my brother back in 1998-1999 changed my world forever. I had planted a vineyard in Vermont in 1998, but after tasting these two wines I knew I was going to be a winemaker, there was no doubt.

The Hilt Estate from JONATA, The Hilt, The Paring on Vimeo.

JB:What has been the strangest moment or incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?

MD: Oh where to start! I’ve had a tarantula walk across my boot in the cellar. A peacock wandered into our production facility. I’ve seen a giant container of meat pies fall into a press of Chardonnay (not in the U.S.). I’ve presented a series of wines I didn’t make to a large audience. I’ve been trapped in a festival tent in Chinon during a massive snowstorm. I’ve made three 45-minute presentations in French in Burgundy (in front of many of my winemaking heroes) without really speaking French. This is a great industry for strange incidents. I can’t wait to see what happens tomorrow …

JB: What is your favorite wine reference in a work of literature or a film?

Lilac Wine, Nina Simone

Dees has great taste when it comes to wine and music.

Want More Wine? Read On:

Baudelaire, Pinot Noir, and Rosé: Kathleen Inman’s Passions
Colombia, France, and California: This Winemaker is a Complex Woman
Michael Kennedy Talks Sailing and Zinfandel
Spain Opened the World of Wine for Spottswoode’s Aron Weinkauf
Alta Colina’s Molly Lonborg Wants a Bottle of Château Rayas
Mumm Napa’s Tami Lotz Talks Wine and Oysters
James MacPhail on Pinot Noir, White Burgundy, and Russell Crowe
A Very Proper Sparkling Wine
Talking With David Ramey
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Kathleen Inman is fond of Baudelaire, and Champagne.

Kathleen Inman: A Soul of Wine

August 3, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.

In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well. 

Kathleen Inman. Whenever I hear that name my mind immediately goes to France. Inman makes wine in Sonoma County as the owner of Inman Family Wines, but the story behind her Endless Crush Rosé captivated me when I first heard it, and since I love Provence …

I don’t know why I waited so long to feature Inman in Wine Talk, because she is a great conversationalist — a recent Zoom tasting confirmed my initial impression, which I made based on quotes, articles, and conversations with others. Her laugh rang through, and when I heard it during the virtual tasting it was uncannily similar to the one I heard in my head when reading descriptions of Inman.

Inman loves Rosé, and she loves Champagne, and her way with Pinot Noir makes me happy. She studied French literature in college, which is another reason I look forward to meeting her (Baudelaire, Rimbaud … what’s not to like?).

Oh yes, she farms the Olivet Grange Vineyard, from which comes some fine Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris fruit.

Memories of Provence …

If you are seeking a new Rosé to add to your list, order some Endless Crush. During our tasting, I sampled Inman’s 2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Special Blend. I loved it. Complex, elegant, wonderful acidity, and a fascinating fruit makeup (Olivet Grange, Sexton Road Ranch, and Vine Hill). This wine grandly represents Inman’s approach to her craft.

Let’s get to her Wine Talk.

James Brock: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. How about a food pairing for each one?

Kathleen Inman: First, 2018 and 2019 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé. I pair this with anything and everything. Kermit Lynch or Wine.com, $56

Next, 2019 Crocker & Starr Sauvignon Blanc Crocker Estate. Although it’s a little heavier in alcohol than past vintages, I have been drinking this recently. Crocker & Starr is the only wine club I belong to. I paired it recently with a caponata using eggplants and tomatoes from my garden. Purchased from the winery, $40

2015 Inman Family Extra Brut Luxe Cuvée, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that spent years on the yeast. It’s currently a favorite of my husband’s, Simon, and is $78 (available from the winery only).

Inman Family WInes Experience from Inman Family Wines on Vimeo.

JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why?

KI: 2004 Krug Clos du Mesnil would be my choice. I had a bottle of this last year for my birthday, and it was very delicious. Clos du Mesnil, a tiny, walled vineyard, is a little gem. Krug, my favorite Champagne house, makes from it a single-vineyard, single-vintage, single-varietal sparkling wine that has mouthwatering Chardonnay fruit, crystalline acidity, and such a sense of place. This wine inspired me in making my sparkling wines; although they are made from Pinot Noir from the Inman Family OGV Estate vineyard, I kept the structure single-vineyard, single-vintage, and single-varietal, inspired by the Krug wines I love.

Clos du Mesnil: Do not tear down this wall.
Kathleen Inman with some Pinot Noir.

JB: What is your favorite grape, and why?

KI: I have to be really predictable here: It is Pinot Noir that I am most passionate about. I love it in all of its guises: rich and redolent in ripe fruit, elegant and savory with texture like silk satin, made into Rosés, made into sparkling wines … all the Pinots!

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day? 

KI: We tend to buy vintage port for birth years since it can cellar for much longer than 10 years, but of course, not every year is a vintage year. Of my own wines, the OGV Estate Pinot Noirs really come into their own after 10 years. I would recommend the 2017 vintage. It is elegant, and each time I taste it, it has a subtle, haunting character that is more beguiling as the months pass. I would love to have this in 2027 with a seared duck breast with lentils and sautéed spinach.

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle?

KI: COVID-19 has made us very solitary homebodies these days. However, in pre-pandemic days, Corkage, in Bath, Somerset, UK was our favorite place to enjoy wine by the glass or the bottle with small plates. We have been going there often for some years. A fantastic list. I do miss being able to travel.

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

KI: On the business side, I think wine consumers should keep in mind that the best way to support small wineries is to buy from them directly. Distributors and retailers all make more money than the winery when a consumer purchases at a store. About 50-60 percent of the price of that bottle is all the winery gets — and from that they have to pay the taxes as well as the production costs. As often as you can, support wineries by buying direct.  

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

KI: My “wine eureka moment” that led to my passion for wine — as a consumer and later as a maker — was probably when I did a wine-tasting class offered by a local retailer when I was at UC Santa Barbara. I was fascinated by how the same grape grown in different places could result in wines that tasted so different, and then grapes grown in the same place but made by different people into wine were also different. Add in vintage differences and the variations were endlessly fascinating. Pinot Noir and Riesling were my first wine loves, but when I discovered Champagne … wow!

JB: What is your favorite wine reference in a work of literature or a film?

KI: Can I give two? Having studied a lot of French literature at university, I am a fan of the French Symbolist poets, and Baudelaire’s “L’âme du vin” (“The Soul of Wine”) is a favorite, but I would be remiss if I did not mention my friend Regine Rousseau, who, besides being a wine entrepreneur (Shall We Wine is her business), is a poet. Her recently published book — “Searching for Cloves and Lilies: The Wine Edition” — pairs her poems with wines, including one paired with my Endless Crush Rosé of Pinot Noir.

Want More Wine? Read On:

Colombia, France, and California: This Winemaker is a Complex Woman
Michael Kennedy Talks Sailing and Zinfandel
Spain Opened the World of Wine for Spottswoode’s Aron Weinkauf
Alta Colina’s Molly Lonborg Wants a Bottle of Château Rayas
Mumm Napa’s Tami Lotz Talks Wine and Oysters
James MacPhail on Pinot Noir, White Burgundy, and Russell Crowe
A Very Proper Sparkling Wine
Talking With David Ramey
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

James MacPhail always has Pinot Noir on his mind. (Brockhaus photo)

A Pinot Master: James MacPhail Has Many Vintages Ahead of Him

May 18, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.

In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well. 

James MacPhail was busy when we walked up to Grapewagon Custom Crush, his winemaking facility in Healdsburg, California. It was a beautiful harvest day, early October 2019. He and a crew were unloading a truck full of grapes that had just arrived, and they were in a hurry. I shook his hand in greeting, and he went back to the task at hand.

A bin of grapes await human hands at Grapewagon Custom Crush.

I was there to meet MacPhail (for the first time) and taste some of his Tongue Dancer wines — he and Kerry MacPhail, his partner and wife, launched the label in 2012. (Note: The brief wait for MacPhail to finish his work was well worth it, because there are some great wines being made in the well-designed facility.)

Grapewagon Custom Crush

MacPhail’s name is known far and wide in the wine world, for good reason. His touch with the Pinot Noir grape has been producing memorable results for a long time — his first “assistant” winemaking job started in 1999, and he launched MacPhail Family Wines, as head winemaker, with the 2001 vintage. (The Hess Collection purchased MacPhail Family Wines in 2011.)

MacPhail, in addition to Tongue Dancer, makes wine for, among others, Chronicle Wines, Grant Family Vineyard, Tipp Rambler, and Sangiacomo Wines. He has produced more than 130 Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that have been awarded 90 points or more by critics and publications, a feat that has earned him a spot in the 90+/90+ Club in Sonoma County. Grapewagon Custom Crush counts among its clients Sangiacomo, Calafia Cellars, and Flaunt Wine Company. It’s a busy place.

Kerry and James Macphail, the team behind Tongue Dancer Wines.

After a quick tour of the crush facility, James took us upstairs, where we tasted a number of wines, including some excellent Pinots and Chardonnays. Kerry joined us and added to James’ stories — it was quickly obvious that she is more than an equal partner in all aspects of his life. They have a great thing going on.

Not long after I moved to Los Angeles, in November of 2019, I found a bottle of 2004 MacPhail Toulouse Vineyard Pinot Noir at a local merchant. I picked it up for about $30, and opened it a week or so later, to pair with a steak. Its color had faded a bit, but it was drinking wonderfully well.

This Pinot Noir made by James MacPhail, which I opened late in 2019, had aged well.
A wagon full of grapes …

MacPhail has many years of winemaking ahead of him, and for that we should all be glad, because he’s getting only better.

Let’s see what MacPhail has to say in Wine Talk:

James Brock: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?

James MacPhail: There are a couple of wines right now that are singing. First, the 2017 8 Hand Fiano. It’s a beautiful domestic expression of the Italian grape. Comes from a vineyard out in the Dry Creek Valley. Beautiful nutty notes with white flowers and honeysuckle. Nice acidity, with a low impact of oak. Great wine to have chilled on these warmer days with fish dishes (halibut, ceviche, sushi), and light pastas (angel hair with prawns or pesto). I believe it sells for around $35 a bottle. (Note: If you want more information about 8 Hand, including ordering details, leave me a comment.)

Next, 2017 Sangiacomo Pinot Noir Roberts Road Vineyard, from one of my all-time favorite vineyards. I’ve been making wine from this vineyard since 2003 (13 years for MacPhail, four years now for Sangiacomo). This is a beautiful expression of bright red-fruit Pinot, with balanced oak and acidity, and a very enjoyable, fun, and thought-provoking Pinot. The vineyard sits in the Petaluma Gap, so with the cooler climate, fruit gets slightly tougher skins, resulting in a Pinot with a good backbone as well. Delicious. Best all-time pairing is Peking duck. 

Finally, my 2015 Tongue Dancer Wines Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard. From a rich vintage (last drought year), this Chardonnay is weighty, rich, opulent, and lush, yet still carries an elegant acidity that keeps it bright and refreshing … the best of both worlds. We are officially sold out of this, but have kept a small “stash” because it is such a gem. If anyone is interested, here’s the link: https://tonguedancerwines.com/library-wines. Since this is a ‘big’ Chardonnay, richer, creamy pasta dishes pair well (lobster and crab!). Also, grilled chicken.

JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why?

JP: Well, being a white Burgundy fan, I would probably head in that direction — maybe a Domaine Ramonet Montrachet Grand Cru?

A tasting sampler at Grapewagon Custom Crush

JB: What is your favorite grape, and why?

JP: Pinot Noir. When I first began in this industry, I started out learning winemaking at Quivira Vineyards, a small, artisan producer in the Dry Creek Valley. They focused on their estate varietals — Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel — and some Rhone varietals — Grenache, Mourvedré and Syrah. Made a nice GSM. I spent about five-and-a-half years working there. I then went to work for Unti Vineyards, another small, artisan producer in the Dry Creek Valley, also focusing on their estate varietals, this time all Italian.

Over these years, I was always going home and drinking Pinot Noir. That was the grape varietal that resonated with me the most, had the most layers, and was the most thought-provoking. I feel that our winegrowing and winemaking industry really started to “figure out” Pinot here in California in the early to mid-1990’s — where it excelled, best winemaking practices, etc.

After my time at Unti, I decided to focus exclusively on Pinot Noir, and that is when I went to work for Gary Farrell. From that point on, I committed myself to Pinot. I told myself I wanted to learn one varietal and learn it well. Now, 20 years later …

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day? 

JP: My wife, Kerry, and I have our own personal wine brand, Tongue Dancer Wines, that we started in 2012. We make only a limited production of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, from the best vineyard sites, artisan cooperages, and only small lots. One of the Pinots is from my favorite vineyard out on the “true” Sonoma Coast — Putnam Vineyard — about three miles off the Pacific Ocean. The site and winemaking lends itself to a wine that is very age-worthy. The way the first set of vintages has aged is very exciting. We call it the Pinot de Ville, and the label has a different classic vintage Cadillac with each vintage. In my opinion, it’s a Pinot that can go up against any other Pinot from California or Oregon!

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle (outside your home and workplace)?

JP: Well, this is a hard one, because Kerry and I don’t really go out to drink; with so much wine in-house, we stay home! My favorite bar in town is Duke’s Spirited Cocktails. Great bar. However, when I am on the road, I seek out wine bars. I always like to patronize local establishments trying hard to educate and offer a diverse and interesting selection of wines.  

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

JP: That’s simple: Try. Something. New.

James Brock and James MacPhail during a tasting at Grapewagon Custom Crush.

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

JP: Well, I never had an “Ah-Ha” moment. For me, it stemmed more from being around wine growing up, and being taught about wine. I grew up around a very European table, where food and wine went hand in hand. My parents would always have a bottle of wine with dinner, and teach my sister and me, from as early as I can remember, on special occasions with a shot glass of half wine and half water. So I think I got it in my blood.

I had an opportunity in my mid-20’s to change course in my life, and I chose to move to Healdsburg and learn how to make wine. It was already a hobby of mine. That was the biggest “Ah-Ha” moment, leaving a good corporate-paying job that was not making me happy, and packing my bags to move north, to make $10 an hour and be the happiest I had ever been, and feeling more whole because I was “crafting something” from the earth. 

JB:What has been the strangest moment or incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?

JP: Through the hundreds of wines I have now made over my career, I would have to say that the strangest moment/incident is experiencing a wine that I thought was not my best, to having it turn out to be one of my favorites.

Case in point, the 2011 Oregon Roserock Vineyard Pinot Noir. Picked it on November 4, 2011, one of the latest picks dates in the history of Oregon. Only reason we picked it that day was because Oregon’s first major storm was coming the next day, and the window would then be closed. We picked at 21.5˚ Brix, much lower than I wanted, and much less “physiologically ripe” than I had hoped for. First and only wine I have ever chaptalized. Now, nine years later, one of my all-time favorites. The fruit still sings, the wine is perfectly balanced … really mind-blowing!

JB: What is your favorite wine reference in a work of literature?

JP: I really enjoyed Wine and War. An easy read, but a fascinating history of how the French hid their wines from the invading Germans. My favorite wine film, and don’t laugh, is A Good Year, with Russell Crowe. A bit cheesy, but the storyline is pretty dreamy. I would love to find out I had an uncle in Burgundy that left me his estate!

Want more wine? Read on:

A Very Proper Sparkling Wine
Talking With David Ramey
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

The Benzinger family's land tells a tale of family, hard work, and passion. (Courtesy Benzinger Family Winery)

During Lockdown, Virtual Tastings Become The Norm

April 22, 2020 / / 0 Comments

If you are like most people I know, Zoom (or another online-meeting platform) has more than likely become a fixture around your home. This past Sunday, we used it to host my virtual birthday party, and a few days before that I participated in a virtual tasting put on by Benzinger Family Winery.

Chris Benzinger, the winery’s vice president of trade relations, hosted the tasting, and the tales he told of his family’s love affair with the land on Sonoma Mountain in Glen Ellen that they purchased in 1980 made me want to leave my lockdown in Los Angeles and head north for a visit.

Chris Benzinger

The occasion for the tasting was the 20th anniversary of Benzinger’s certification as a biodynamic farm by the Demeter Association, something of which Chris, who joined the family business in 1993, is clearly proud.

We began with the 2017 Reserve Chardonnay ($30), and followed that with the 2016 de Coelo Quintus Pinot Noir ($69), the 2016 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), and the 2016 Sunny Slope “Signaterra” Cabernet Sauvignon ($59). Each of these wines is drinking well now; I especially enjoyed the Sonoma County Cab and the de Coelo Quintus, and I want to taste the 2016 Sunny Slope Cab five years from now. (If you join a Benzinger wine club, discounts are offered on these bottles.)

The Benzinger family left New York in 1973 and headed out to California to make wine.

These wine are, of course, available from the winery, or you can check with your favorite merchant.

Next up, tastings of a Pinot Bianco and a Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige. Until then, drink well, with those you love, and stay safe.

Jeff Pisoni grew up among the vines, and his approach to winemaking is one I respect and admire. (Courtesy Folsom + Associates)

Wine Talk: Jeff Pisoni on John Steinbeck, His Father, and Pinot Noir

April 16, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.

In Wine Talk, I introduce you to some of my friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well. 

Pisoni is a name that needs no introduction — especially to lovers of wine. First, there’s Gary Pisoni, who, back in the 1980s, convinced his farming family to plant grapes on their land in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Those hallowed 40 acres of vineyards have been producing great fruit — Syrah, Chardonnay, and, of course, Pinot Noir — since then.

A family of wine: Jeff, Gary, and Mark Pisoni

And it is a family affair, which brings me to the subject of this Wine Talk, Jeff Pisoni, Gary’s son and Pisoni Estate’s vintner. (Jeff’s brother, Mark, is vineyard manager at the estate.)

Jeff, who has a bachelor of science degree in enology from Cal State, Fresno, worked at Bernardus and Peter Michael prior to joining the family concern. Since 2009, he has also been head winemaker at Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery, about which he says, “I’m not trying to make a style. Fort Ross Vineyard is the style.”

Fort Ross is the sole winery Pisoni works with apart from his family enterprise. The vineyard, the closest one to the Pacific Ocean, is in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. “I tried the Fort Ross Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at a tasting and was struck by the luscious fruit, fine minerality and crisp acidity in each wine,” Pisoni says, referring to his introduction to the fruit there. “The cool climate and the strong character of the vineyard were clearly evident. My goal is to continue to express the personality of the vineyard and the wonderful style the winery has worked so hard to establish.” 

I tasted through a selection of Fort Ross wines this week, including the 2017 Stagecoach Road Pinot Noir and the 2018 Chardonnay, both clearly made with precision and care. Pisoni’s approach is on display here, and it’s one I appreciate and admire.

Let’s see what he has to say in Wine Talk:

Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?

Jeff Pisoni: 2013 Prager “Steinriegl” Riesling. Wachau, Austria. With the down time from shelter in place, I did some organizing in the cellar and opened up this bottle. It was tasting great — fresh, complex, and elegant. My wife and I drank this with grilled sole. I purchased this wine upon release for $30.

Next, 2018 Fort Ross Vineyard Chardonnay. This variety can take many forms. Our approach with Fort Ross is bright and vibrant, but still with nice texture from the high-elevation mountaintops. I found it particularly satisfying, as I think a lot of people turn to a reassuring familiarity while being in a shelter-in-place situation in the world. This brings the beauty of California with a refreshing finish. You can get this for $44 a bottle.

Finally, the 2015 Renaissance by Clape. I love this producer. Clape has a way of capturing so much intensity and purity. Weather recently has also been cold and rainy, which I think fits well for a rich syrah. This was paired with a grilled ribeye steak. What else is needed? This wine was purchased for around $75 per bottle.

JB:  If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why?

JP: Sure! I would buy a 6-liter bottle of 2017 Chateau Latour. It’s my younger son’s birthyear and I still need to find a bottle for him. Might as well go big, right?  As a backstory, my father gifted me a 6-liter birthyear bottle of Chateau Latour, 1979. (And yes, Bordeaux was a little cheaper back then!) I have not opened it, yet. 

JB: What is your favorite grape, and why? If you can’t single out one — I know, it’s difficult — choose one that speaks to you in a particular way.

JP: Right, it’s hard to choose a favorite, but I am extremely passionate about Pinot Noir. Yes, there is the beauty and enigmatic nature of it, the fine balance between amazing and mediocre, the multitude of elusive nuances. I am also really drawn to challenges, and nothing challenges one’s winemaking skills like Pinot Noir. 

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day?

JP: Our Fort Ross Vineyard “Top of Land” Pinot Noir cuvée. It’s a wonderful combination of Pinot Noir’s power and elegance. 

The wine blend is of specific blocks and mostly heritage clones. It really conveys the essence of what Fort Ross Vineyard is about. The structure comes from the rugged mountain soils of our high-elevation sites, while the elegance is from the coastal climate that is only possible from a vineyard like this, at one mile from the Pacific Ocean. Overall, it has a great depth of flavor and structure that will age well for 10-plus years in the cellar.

This wine also speaks to the history of the vineyard. First planted by Linda and Lester Schwartz in 1994, the vineyard in total is 50 acres, but made up of over 30 unique blocks. Each block has its own personality. This wine, being a block selection, shows unique aspects of the vineyard and also the idea that Linda and Lester wanted to explore this detail of the vineyard. 

Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery occupies a special place near the Pacific Ocean.

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle?

JP: There is a great restaurant here in Santa Rosa called Stark’s Steak & Seafood. It has a fantastic wine list and a great bar scene in the evening. It is a wonderful atmosphere for a relaxing glass of wine and/or dinner. When you are in Sonoma County, check it out. 

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

JP: I hope that if people have a chance, they will buy a wine for drinking early and a bottle (or more) for aging. It’s fun and educational to watch the evolution of wines. It also gives you more bottles and opportunities to taste, evaluate, and discuss. I enjoy collecting things in general, so I always default to saving wines for a long time. 

Fort Ross Vineyard wines need to be in your cellar and on your table.

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

JP: Blind tasting wine with my father when I was a teenager. My father was instrumental in me deciding to be a winemaker. He was a farmer turned grape grower turned winemaker — and a viticultural pioneer.

He had a vast wine collection he started in the 1970s, and he would often open wines and introduce them to my brother and me. We loved the learning and experience of the different wines and regions. Well, many times, he would open wines and not tell us what it was — he would ask us to guess the variety, region, and vintage. It was an awesome experience, and very influential for me. In the blind tastings, we obviously had plenty of wrong ideas, but I remember making a few great calls and it brought a very strong connection to wine and the concept of terroir.

JB: What has been the strangest moment or incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?

JP: One time an intern had filled a 15-gallon stainless steel keg with juice and closed it with a valve. This was during harvest, so it went unnoticed for a few days — long enough for the keg to ferment and build up a lot of pressure. When we tried opening the valve, it plugged with grape solids, so we could not release the pressure. We then had to very, very carefully remove the fitting that held the valve in place. This exposed a 2-inch hole in the top of the keg. In a fraction of a second, a 2-inch vertical stream of wine shot up from the keg and hit our 25-foot-high ceiling. Nearly all the wine was lost to the upward stream, and we all just looked around in awe for a few moments. 

JB: What is your favorite wine reference in a work of literature or film?

JP: I grew up in Monterey County, so John Steinbeck was an important author for us. And Cannery Row was a fun read:

“Two gallons is a great deal of wine, even for two paisanos.”

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This was the final bottle of 2019: the 2015 Domaine Anderson Estate Pinot Noir.

A Year of Wines, Ending With an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

January 3, 2020 / / 0 Comments

The year past (2019) held many high notes regarding wine, including the opportunity — made possible by a generous friend — to taste a 1964 Private Reserve Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour. Capped by a wedding in Texas Hill Country, a honeymoon in Napa and Sonoma, and a move to Los Angeles, it was a vintage year.

Domaine Anderson is an Anderson Valley AVA winery whose Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays you should know.

As 2020 begins, I’m thinking of the final bottle I opened in 2019, and looking forward to all the pours the new year promises. That last bottle of the past year was a 2015 Pinot Noir from Domaine Anderson, a wine I paired with burgers (and would gladly drink with lamb chops or a steak). Here are my thoughts on the wine, which first appeared in PaperCity.

Those bottles to come? First up will be something hailing from Italy …

Here’s to 2020, and all it promises.

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The Petaluma Gap AVA was born on December 7, 2017. (Courtesy Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance)

Welcome to the World, Petaluma Gap AVA!

December 20, 2017 / / 0 Comments

It happened earlier this month, and in celebration of the event I opened a bottle of Pfendler Chardonnay, an appropriate and worthy choice. I’m talking about the official recognition of the Petaluma Gap American Viticultural Area (AVA), and the people who’ve spearheaded the move deserve a round of applause. (For those of you who don’t know what an AVA is, click here.)

The Petaluma Gap AVA comprises 4,000 acres of vineyards and 200,000 acres of land; 75 percent of those vines produce Pinot Noir, while Syrah and Chardonnay make up most of the remaining plantings (other grape varieties come in at less than 1 percent of the total in the AVA). The area is known for the wind and fog that visit it daily, and generally slower ripening times, which can result in the development of some fine flavors and the preservation of natural acidity, something good for everyone.

Eighty or so winegrowers, along with nine wineries, call the AVA home, and one of them is Pfendler Vineyards, the producer of the bottle I opened to celebrate the AVA’s birth. Kimberly Pfendler, the founder of the winery, sent me some thoughts about the recognition of the area:

I’ve long called the Petaluma Gap the most exciting emerging wine region in California, and the AVA recognition is a big step towards building awareness for our wines. My late-husband Peter Pfendler was one of the original pioneers of the Petaluma Gap, and began planning grapes here as early as 1992 and was the first to plant what is now known as the Gap’s Crown. Unfortunately, our signature fog and wind, which make the Petaluma Gap so interesting, were not a good fit for the Cabernet vines he planted. When I started Pfendler Vineyards 10 years ago I made it our goal to capture the Petaluma Gap’s distinct cool climate in elegant-style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. We farm three estate vineyards on the western slopes of Sonoma Mountain. The combination of sun and fog results in wines with beautiful freshness and layers of nuanced flavors. 

Pfendler Vineyards, the source of some very good Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. (Courtesy Pfendler Vineyards)

Pfendler is right about the flavors and freshness; the celebratory Chardonnay I tasted, the 2015 vintage ($38, 14.3 percent alcohol, 400 cases, Clone 4 and Hyde-Wente) is a fetching golden yellow in hue, and offers a bouquet of bright apple and gentle spice. Peach, lemon, and a slight toasty quality round out the taste. The aforementioned acidity is satisfyingly present, leading to a balanced finish. Drink this with a good cheese, say, a Camembert or an aged Cheddar, or pair with crab cakes, as I did.

Up next, tasting the 2015 Pinot Noir from Pfendler.

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