Page 9 of 28

Notes From a Lockdown Kitchen

Wine is without question the best liquid to drink while dining. Water comes in second in this equation, of course. But wine always. Hamburgers or pizza? Try a Chianti. Rouget or scallops? Open a white Rhône blend. Or if your palate calls for something entirely different, indulge it. Drink what you like, drink what pleases you and yours, by all means.

I recently received a few bottles from Joel Gott Wines, and two of them stood out to my palate. The 2017 815 Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2017 California Chardonnay. You can find the former for around $17, and the latter for $13 or so.

The (100 percent) Cabernet Sauvignon is immediately approachable, and it’s a fruit-forward pour, full of black cherry and raspberry. Eighteen months in oak produce a wine with pronounced, defined tannins and decent acidity. I paired it with a New York Strip, and was pleased.

The Chardonnay is made with grapes from Monterey, Santa Barbara, and San Luis Obispo vineyards, and you can taste Napa and Sonoma fruit in the glass. Jasmine, citrus, and a touch of peach greet you in this easy-to-drink wine.

Both of the Gott selections are ideal for by-the-case stocking, and you can find them at a wide variety of merchants. (I’m going to sample Gott’s California Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc soon.)

I have been cooking a lot lately. I mean, I cook all the time, but since the evening of March 12, I have not dined in a restaurant, so I’m in our home kitchen even more now, for reasons of which you are aware. I have not yet given this much thought, other than being reminded that our public dining spaces, be they taco stands, food halls, or Spago or Le Bernardin, are a vital part of our existence. I hope you feel the same.

Orrechiette with green peas, zucchini, and feta

In our home kitchen, I’ve stocked up on beans and pasta, firm tofu (for saag paneer and other dishes), canned tomatoes, a lot more garlic than I usually have on hand, plus cold cuts, mushrooms, tuna, and … you get the picture, and I imagine you have done similar. My attempts at procuring yeast locally failed, but a few fine people have offered to send some, and my sourdough starter is under way (thanks for the reminder, Evan Kleiman!) We are ordering from Whole Foods and Ralph’s, and tipping the delivery workers well.

I have purposefully refrained from mentioning COVID-19 here, while I work out my myriad thoughts about what the world is going through. I am glad John Prine’s condition has stabilized, but grieving for Wallace Roney and Ellis Marsalis. I will say that I am touched by the selflessness being shown by so many medical professionals and caregivers, and disgusted by the examples of idiocy demonstrated by leaders of some states — I will single out the governors of Texas, Tennessee, Florida, Georgia, and Alabama.

I am hoping you and yours are well.

A Crianza For Every Day, Plus a Special Evening in Los Angeles

Rioja means a lot to me. I’ve spent time in the beautiful region on several occasions, with Angela and friends, and we always dined and drank well.

This wine is a must-buy.

Tempranillo is the key word there, and here, because the wine I want to tell you about today is 100 percent Tempranillo, a Crianza from Viña Pomal.

As you’ll read, I paired it with lamb chops, and everything about the combination was just right. You can find this bottle for around $16, and I’d buy it by the case if I were you.

It’s going to be amazing …

For anyone in Los Angeles on March 10, I have a recommendation for you, and it can be conveyed in three words: Heitz, Mayacamas, and Corison. You’ll need a reservation at the NoMad Hotel, an appetite, and the capacity to deal with wines from three spectacular producers.

EVENING MENU

CANAPES
Cauliflower Hummus Tartlet

Chicken Burger with Truffle Mayo, Frisee & Pickled Shallots
Hanger Steak Skewer with Salsa Verde

Paired with
Billecart-Salmon, Selection NoMad, Extra Brut, Mareuil-Sur-Ay


FIRST COURSE
Kanpachi Ceviche

Radish, Onion, and Lettuces

Paired with
2018 Heitz, Chardonnay, Quartz Creek Vineyard
2018 Corazon, Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley
2002 Mayacamas, Chardonnay, Mt Veeder


SECOND COURSE
Cavatelli

Winter Mushrooms, Swiss Chard & Parmesan

Paired with
2014 Heitz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trailside Vineyard
2015 Corison, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2015 Mayacamas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder


THIRD COURSE
NoMad Roasted Chicken Breast 

Black Truffle-Parmesan Stuffing with Roasted Sweet Potatoes & Chicken Jus

Paired with
2000 Heitz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trailside Vineyard
2005 Corison, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2005 Mayacamas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder

Drink well, with those you love.

Keats and Pinot Noir: Theresa Heredia Talks Wine and Poetry

Wine Talk is is celebrating a birthday — it’s a 4-year old now — and the most recent subject, Gary Farrell’s Theres Heredia, is a winemaker you should get to know.

First, she pairs food and wine with aplomb (wait until you read her recommendation for lamb). Second, she knows her Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and is making some great ones at the Sonoma winery. Finally, she admires the poetry of John Keats.

Read Heredia’s Wine Talk here, and take a look at some of the back catalogue by visiting the links below.

Want more Wine Talk? From Paris to Los Angeles and many other places, the goodness flows
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life

Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Wine and Spirits Industry Breathes Sigh of Relief

The tariffs will remain at 25 percent, stated the Office of the United States Trade Representative last week, and that’s a good thing for the wine and spirits industry. However, it is far too soon for cries of joy.

The U.S. was mulling slapping tariffs at a much higher level — perhaps as high as 100 percent — but decided to maintain the status quo.

Airbus is the entity the U.S. government is upset with, and that dispute is the cause for the current tariffs that are imposed on European wines, cheeses, and other items. The USTR’s office, in its Feb. 14 statement, added that the tariffs on Airbus will increase to 15 percent from the current 10 percent, effective March 18.

According to the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA), referring to data from economists at John Dunham and Associates, under current tariff levels, the U.S. beverage alcohol industry could lose as many as 36,000 jobs, and awards of $1.6 billion in wages, which could cost the U.S. economy more than $5.3 billion in 2020.

“Our industry provides consumers with the most diverse selection of products in the world and supports hundreds of thousands of jobs across the country in an array of related industries,” said Michelle Korsmo WSWA president and CEO. “Our members offer products for every taste, budget and occasion and are already being negatively impacted by the imposition of retaliatory tariffs by China and the European Union on U.S-origin distilled spirits and wines – these tariffs will only increase that burden.”

The 25 percent tariff in place now apply to still wine with an alcohol content below 14 percent produced in France, Germany, Spain, and the United Kingdom. Wine from Italy, as well as all sparkling wine, is spared. The tariffs also effect single-malt Scotch whisky, whiskey from Northern Ireland, and cordials and liqueurs hailing from Germany, Ireland, Italy, Spain, and the U.K.

Stay tuned, because this trade dispute is far from over.

Drink some Rebo!

On a happier note, I sampled a number of wines recently that you should know about, including a Zinfandel and a Chardonnay from Frank Family Vineyards, an Italian red blend (40 percent Rebo, 40 percent Corvina, and 20 percent Merlot), and a Bordeaux blend that I’ve added to my inventory.

All of these wines are drinking wonderfully now, and the Château Malescasse (2016 vintage) will certainly reward you with some aging.

Drink well, with those you love.

Wine Talk: Meet La Toque’s Richard Matuszczak

One of the many great things about living in Los Angeles is that I am now much closer to Napa and Sonoma — not to mention Santa Barbara — and the wines and wineries there.

And the food. There are some outstanding restaurants in the Napa Valley, and the latest Wine Talk’s subject oversees the wine program at one of them, La Toque. Angela and I dined there on our honeymoon back in October, and we will most definitely return for another meal.

The milk-fed veal chop at La Toque (Megan Menicucci photo)

Richard Matuszczak poured some excellent wines for us during our evening at La Toque, including a Seavey Caravina. His selections paired beautifully with our courses, which included pork belly, shrimp, and mushrooms.

Matuszczak’s Wine Talk includes his take on Caravina, and some other great bottles, so give it a read, and make a reservation at La Toque.

Want more Wine Talk: From Paris to Houston and many other places, the goodness flows
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life

Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

A Year of Wines, Ending With an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

The year past (2019) held many high notes regarding wine, including the opportunity — made possible by a generous friend — to taste a 1964 Private Reserve Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour. Capped by a wedding in Texas Hill Country, a honeymoon in Napa and Sonoma, and a move to Los Angeles, it was a vintage year.

Domaine Anderson is an Anderson Valley AVA winery whose Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays you should know.

As 2020 begins, I’m thinking of the final bottle I opened in 2019, and looking forward to all the pours the new year promises. That last bottle of the past year was a 2015 Pinot Noir from Domaine Anderson, a wine I paired with burgers (and would gladly drink with lamb chops or a steak). Here are my thoughts on the wine, which first appeared in PaperCity.

Those bottles to come? First up will be something hailing from Italy …

Here’s to 2020, and all it promises.

Want more wine? Peruse these stories:

The Passion of Sarah Francis 
Drink This California Cabernet Franc
This Geologist Knows His Italian
From Boston to Austin, With Wine in Mind
A Chardonnay For Your Mother (and You)
Don’t Dismiss the Peat
Distinctive Whisky Enters a New Era
A Whisky Legend Visits Houston
A Rare Cask, Indeed
Austin Whisky, Strange Name
Here’s Your Texas Rum Goddess
A ZaZa Wine Guy Loves Great Service
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life

Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Happy Birthday, Joan Didion

The sun itself was still obscured by the mountains visible from my living room window early this morning when I raised the shade, but its light was close to glorious, awesome in the true meaning of the word. One could even have called it holy.

Last night, for some reason, I was thinking of “The Year of Magical Thinking” — not the book, but the play. I attended a performance in 2007, in March of that year, at the Booth, and have not forgotten it. The words of Joan Didion, the stage presence and feelings of Vanessa Redgrave, and loss. Loss so stunning and final that the mind is sheared flat by the force of it.

This morning, when I walked out to the living room, I saw that light. I stood at the wall of windows for a few minutes, not wanting to let it go. It was blue and orange and gold and pink, and it was waking up downtown Los Angeles, where I now live.

Several minutes later, while drinking a coffee, I came across an email that told me this: Today is Joan Didion’s birthday. After reading that, I walked back over to the windows and watched the sun rise above Los Angeles, a city whose stories Didion told well. I then thought of this quote of hers:

Life changes fast. Life changes in the instant. You sit down to dinner and life as you know it ends.

As you know it.

Joan Didion in Hollywood, 1968 (Photo by Julian Wasser)

I have read most of Didion’s work, but I will soon begin reading it again, in my new city.

Happy Birthday, Ms. Didion. I hope you celebrated well.

A Los Angeles Thanksgiving, and Good and Gracious People

I have celebrated Thanksgiving in many places and at many tables. In Savannah, New York, Germany, Paris, Abu Dhabi and Dubai, New York, Clemson, South Carolina … and, today, in Los Angeles, our new home.

Thanksgiving in the 10th, Paris.
Scott’s Thanksgiving table in Paris …

Angela and I arrived in California on November 1, and set up a temporary home in a building 31 floors downtown above Olive Street. This morning she’s helping pack foodstuffs for homeless people who have made their home on Skid Row, and I’m putting the final touches on our Thanksgiving dinner contributions. And thinking of dishes from the past. Of roasting peppers for a dressing, and mixing cranberries with horseradish and onion and cream.

Mama Stamberg’s cranberry relish

It’s raining and overcast, and I hope that helps the firefighters in Santa Barbara. Our smoked turkey (not from those fires; this turkey was smoked in Tyler, Texas) is ready, I made sweet potato pies, and Julia Child’s mashed potatoes are under way.

We are dining with friends of a friend — a couple who live in West Hollywood asked us to share their table with them and their 18-year-old son home from college and their 8-year-old daughter.

At that table today, I will think of my mother, whose crescent rolls and pecans pies I’ll remember when I am old and dimming. My mind will glimpse my grandmother Ida, and my aunt, Shelby, whose cooking pleases me still and produces in me a longing that often approaches the painful — those biscuits and fried chicken, the Low Country boils, with their blue crab and shrimp and sausage and corn, and the divinity. A certain Thanksgiving spent in Clemson in a small apartment full of laughter and literature and beer and wine will float around me.

James and Sandra Brock, my parents
Ida, on the beach.
My aunt Shelby (on left)

I hope you feast well today, in the company of good and gracious people. They will not be near you forever.

Thanksgiving Wines: The 2019 Brockhaus Selections

It is a top day for me, Thanksgiving. It brings families and friends together, and the focus is on the table. I try to make Mama Stamberg’s cranberry relish every year for the occasion (thank you, Craig Claiborne, you did well), and I either brine a small turkey or order a smoked bird from Greenberg — they are good. Angela makes a pie or two, and I make Scooter’s Southwestern Dressing.

And we serve wine, of course. We usually kick things off with a sparkling wine — perhaps Champagne or Sekt — and I always look forward to seeing what guests bring to share.

A bottle from Ramey Wine Cellars will be on our Thanksgiving table.

Angela and I will celebrate Thanksgiving in Los Angeles this year, and a Greenberg bird will be the main course. What are going to drink? I can with certainty say that everything we open will be poured with gratitude. There’s a Lambrusco, a Chardonnay or two — one made by David Ramey, whose 2016 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay is #7 on Wine Spectator’s 2019 list of the world’s top 100 wines — and a Pinot Noir, not to mention a Champagne from a storied house. We also have a great dessert wine from California.

Without further ado, my totally biased 2019 Thanksgiving Wine Selections, as first seen in PaperCity. Drink well, cook with love, and have a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Want more wine? Take a look at theses stories and profiles:

Drink This California Cabernet Franc
This Geologist Knows His Italian
From Boston to Austin, With Wine in Mind
A Chardonnay For Your Mother (and You)
Don’t Dismiss the Peat
Distinctive Whisky Enters a New Era
A Whisky Legend Visits Houston
A Rare Cask, Indeed
Austin Whisky, Strange Name
Here’s Your Texas Rum Goddess
A ZaZa Wine Guy Loves Great Service
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life

Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Tasting With Laura Díaz Muñoz at Ehlers Estate

I have been drinking wines from Ehlers Estate for a good number of years, and this week was finally able to visit the winery, which is located in St. Helena on an historic property that was developed by Bernard Ehlers in the 1800s.

Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Rosé comprise the bulk of the estate’s offerings, and based on some tank tasting, I am excited about what Ehlers’ new winemaker has under way.

Her name is Laura Díaz Muñoz; she took over as winemaker and general manager of Ehlers in 2018 … and her touch and style are evident everywhere. There’s a concrete egg in the winery’s tank room (a first at Ehlers), and Muñoz has long-term plans for some of the estate’s established vines — she is confident that they have much more (quality) life in them.

Laura Díaz Muñoz pulls a sample in the Ehlers Estate tank room.

Muñoz is from Spain, and studied enology at the Polytechnic University of Madrid.

“I was sitting with my father in northern Spain at a restaurant during a family vacation, and he ordered percebes and a local wine,” she told me when I asked her about her introduction to the world of wine. “I sipped the wine, and tasted the seafood and smelled the sea air, and from that moment knew that I somehow wanted to live and work with wine.”

After graduation, Muñoz worked at several wineries in Spain, then took her skills to New Zealand and Chile. California was her next stop, and she has been in the Napa Valley for more than a decade, making wine for Cardinale, Galerie, La Jota, and, since last year, Ehlers.

Muñoz checks Cabernet Sauvignon in one of Ehlers’ vineyards.
Ehlers has a new addition in its tank room.
Muñoz walks a different section of Ehlers’ 42-acres of vines every morning.
« Older posts Newer posts »

© 2025 Mise en Place

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑