The annual World of Pinot Noir extravaganza is a great event to attend; I was there this year for the first time, and look forward to the 2026 edition. More than 200 Pinot producers poured their wines and the seminars, lunches, and dinners were thoughtful and informative.
Alma Rosa winemaker Samra Morris, right, at this year’s World of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara with Angela Shah and me.
As an appetizer to the main event, Wally’s Presents: WOPN LA is taking place on Oct. 25, and if you like Pinot Noir now is the time to get your tickets (purchase here). The Pacific Design Center is the venue, and from 2 p.m. until 5:30 p.m. you can taste wines from Alma Rosa, Calera, Bien Nacido, Dusty Nabor Wines, Kosta Browne, Presqu’ile Winery, and many other producers. Tickets are $125, and if you use promo code WOPN2025 you can save $50 if you buy two.
Dan Fredman pours Champagne at this year’s World of Pinot Noir.
Ciliegiolo. That’s an Italian word. It’s fun to pronounce. It’s fun to drink. And it leads this edition of Tasting Notes.
Ciliegiolo is a grape that originated in Italy, where it is found primarily, if not solely, in Tuscany, Lazio, Liguria, Puglia, and Umbria. The word translated into English means “small cherry;” its berries resemble that stone fruit and the wines made from them are redolent of cherries. It is not a variety that you are likely to have heard about on a regular basis, but those who know it are well aware of its value and importance. And since winemakers are paying more attention to it as a grape to shine on its own, as opposed to mainly blending it with Sangiovese to “soften” the latter’s profile, I hope this ancient grape will come to attract your attention on a more regular basis.
Ciliegiolo: An ancient grape with a disputed DNA. (Photo by Nick Belanger)
“In my view, Ciliegiolo is one of the most underappreciated grape varieties, allowing for wines of mesmerizingly pure aromas and flavors,” writes Ian D’Agata in “Native Wine Grapes of Italy” (2014), and I agree with him. (D’Agata’s book is one of my favorites on the subject, and if it is not in your library I urge you to acquire it, along with his more recent “Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs.”)
Ciliegiolo’s parentage is the subject of ongoing debate. D’Agata included a compendium of DNA studies in his book that have been carried out on the variety, which was, according to the author, “most likely first described in the 1600s by Soderini, whose description of a Ciriegiuolo grapevine resembles the Ciliegiolo we know today.” D’Agata’s compendium is thorough and makes for fascinating study, and for readers who appreciate such things I recommend turning to page 248 of “Native Wine Grapes of Italy.” Suffice to say that researchers behind ongoing DNA analyses are sparring still as to the parentage and makeup of Ciliegiolo; is it a progeny of Sangiovese, or is it a natural cross of Sangiovese and Moscato Violetto? D’Agata concludes his say on the subject thusly: “Clearly, this is a matter that needs to be studied in more detail.”
I now embark on a brief journey into Giovan Vettorio Soderini, the Italian agronomist mentioned above, because I like history and biography and he had some influence on the craft of winemaking in Italy. Soderini, who was born in 1526 and died in 1596, was sentenced to beheading because of his protests against the Medici (he was born in Florence), but Ferdinando I de’Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, spared his life and banished him to Cedri, which today has a population of around 35 humans. Soderini had studied law and philosophy in Bologna, but turned his attention to agronomy following his banishment. Trattato della coltivazione delle viti, e del frutto che se ne puo cavare (“Treatise on the Cultivation of the Vineyard, and the Fruit That Can Be Obtained”) (Florence, Filippo Giunti, 1600) is according to many academicians his (posthumously published) masterwork, and copies of it can be purchased still today.
Back to Ciliegiolo, and a bottle of wine I sampled recently that leads this edition of “Tasting Notes.” It’s produced by Badia a Coltibuono and goes by the helpful name Chill Ya Jolo. It, too, is fun to pronounce, and I loved drinking it. It’s 100 percent Ciliegiolo, and sells for around $20. Yes, you should chill this wine well before drinking it.
Ciliegiolo: A grape that deserves wider recognition.
The 2024 Chill Ya Jolo was imminently approachable — I am looking forward to sampling the 2025 — and I tasted it after the bottle reached 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Winemaker Roberto Stucchi Prinetti, aided by consultant Maurizio Castelli, know what it means to put together a wine that makes you smile, and this one certainly does that. It comes with 12 percent alcohol, and 20,000 bottles were produced after aging in stainless steel.
Drink this with pizza, scallops, or a good hamburger.
Labels are made to attract the eye and impart information about the contents of a wine bottle. The ladybug (coccinella in Italian) on this one calls attention to Badia a Coltibuono’s approach to sustainable organic farming, and the Hesse quote is apt: Beauty is in the details.
Back to a little pertinent history now. Badia a Coltibuono — Abbey of the Good Harvest (or Cultivation) — was established in 1051 by Giovanni Gualberto (sainted in 1193 by Pope Celestine III), who founded the Benedictine Vallumbrosan order. It functioned as an abbey until 1810, when it was unable to withstand Napoleon’s assault on the Church. Michele Giuntini, a banker from Florence and ancestor of the current owners, the Stucchi Prinetti family, bought the property in 1846, and that began the estate’s journey to becoming a leader in the Chianti Classico universe.
This wine is liquid ruby; holding a glass to the light makes the Chill Ya Jolo even more inviting. The cherry aroma here is profound — it made me think of a time I had a particularly fresh basket of Lapins cherries and after rinsing sliced a few of them and caught their scent. A little heady, lots of vivacity.
I paired this wine with seared sea scallops; I put the Maillard reaction to good use and made sure that the scallops showed its effect, because that’s a mix of flavors you’ll remember for a long while. The wine’s brightness and lively fruit seemed made for the seafood, which was prepared with a briny vanilla cream sauce.
Chill Ya Jolo might be seen as a summer wine, but in my house wines similar to it are consumed around the year. No reason to put strictures on matters such as these.
The 2022 Nestweaver Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is next, and it excited my senses for a good while following my initial taste. A subtle aroma blend of raspberry and sweet cherry put me in an expansive mood on the afternoon I sampled this wine, which was made by Patrick Nyeholt. A secondary note on the nose is dried mushroom, a scent that gives this wine a restrained wildness. Its garnet color in the glass promises what I discerned as seriousness.
Nestweaver Wines was launched in 2021 by Caren Frutig Hatton — you might know her as the co-founder of Arietta, which she established alongside her husband, Fritz Hatton, and John and Maggy Kongsgaard, in 1996. “Nestweaver represents the elegant, nuanced Pinot Noir I envisioned creating for over 20 years, and Patrick Nyeholt is the winemaker to bring my vision to fruition,” Frutig says.
Patrick Nyeholt, Caren Frutig Hatton, and Jeffrey Corpuel stand in the Corpuel Family Vineyard, located in California’s Sebastopol Hills. (Photo courtesy Nestweaver)
Some might question the wisdom of pricing the second vintage of a wine produced from purchased fruit at $125, but the market will have final say, as it almost always does. I will say that I have tasted a good number of wines sold at higher prices that satisfied me less than the Nestweaver did, and I’ll leave it at that.
The 2022 vintage — 14 percent alcohol, 122 cases produced, 100 percent Pinot Noir — saw 30 percent new French oak, and nine months of élevage resulted in something that is delicious now and worthy of aging; 140 cases were made. Frutig Hatton says her grandmother, who created a “loving sanctuary” for her family, was the inspiration for the wine, whose label was designed by Frutig Hatton’s daughter, Hattie.
Nestweaver represents the elegant, nuanced Pinot Noir I envisioned creating for over 20 years, and Patrick Nyeholt is the winemaker to bring my vision to fruition.
Nestweaver Wines founder Caren Fruitig Hatton
I find this a cerebral wine, and its soft tannins contribute an elegant touch. Fruit comes from the Corpuel Family Vineyard, a 7.6-acre Sebastopol Hills property planted to Pommard, Swan, and Vosne-Romanée clones by Ulises Valdez, who sadly passed away of a heart attack at the age of 49 in 2018.
Patrick Nyeholt is the head winemaker at Nestweaver, and serves as associate winemaker at Arietta.
I paired the Nestweaver Pinot Noir with a lamb chop seared simply with olive oil and rosemary; the wine gracefully melded with the protein’s gaminess, and the lamb elevated the wine’s midpalate. Nyeholt, who began working under Andy Erickson at Arietta in 2011 and was named head winemaker at Nestweaver in 2022, has produced an intriguing wine, one I hope to revisit soon.
I am a proponent of opening a bottle of sparkling wine as often as one can, be it Champagne, cava, or anything else bubbly and made well. Sharing a bottle with friends and family at the table is a ritual that can slow the pace of a hectic day, encouraging conversation and contemplation. Closing out this edition of Tasting Notes is a wine from Texas, the 2021 Heath Sparkling Wines Adoration. It has a suggested retail price of $61 — Heath club members can get it for $52 — and is a Pinot Noir-dominated blend: 77.2 percent of that sparkling mainstay, along with 17.2 percent Chardonnay, 3.8 percent Pinot Meunier, 1.5 percent Pinot Gris, and .3 percent Pinot Blanc.
Make a platter of spicy friend chicken and pair it with this sparkling rosé.
This sparkling rosé was sampled after being chilled to around 46 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature that served it (and me) well. A beguiling pale coral hue invites one to sip and savor this wine, which smells of wild strawberry, Bing cherry, and rose petals, a balanced melange. In the mouth, red fruit flavors dominate, then a fine citrus blossom note comes along to finish the experience.
The Heath Adoration is classified as a Brut and has .75 percent residual sugar. It spent only 20 months on the lees, which likely explains the large, vigorous bubbles in the glass. The acidity here is impressive; I paired this bottle with a platter of fried chicken that I made with a slightly spicy batter, and the combination was nearly perfect.
Didier Chopin’s life has been a touch hectic during the past several years. The winemaker was sent to jail this week for 18 months after being found guilty of selling hundreds of thousands of bottles of fake Champagne — or should I write “champagne”? He’s also facing sexual assault charges. He was sentenced in a court in Reims. Fake bubbles are not cool.
It was, for a long while, my favorite restaurant in New York. Wedding anniversaries and birthdays were all celebrated there, and I never had a bad time at the Waverly Place Italian destination, no matter if dining at the bar (where on one evening I had a long and pleasant conversation with Jay McInerney), upstairs in the former hay loft, or at “my” table at the far end (on the right) of the downstairs dining room. Babbo was the place — is the place. I sadly had my first awful experience at the restaurant back in 2019, the last time I was there for dinner, so am looking forward to seeing how Mark Ladner transforms the place. He knows it and its creator, Mario Batali, quite well, after all. I hope the Mint Love Letters are on his menu.
A new owner and chef for an old favorite of mine. (Photo by Heath Brandon)
Jess Lander has written a downright dystopian article in the San Francisco Chronicle about the 2025 harvest in California. “Tens of thousands of acres of vineyards have been ripped out across the state, and despite mostly ideal weather conditions this growing season, more than 100,000 tons of California wine grapes will likely be left on the vines to rot — for the second consecutive year,” Lander writes. Brutal, indeed.
To continue in the less-than-good-news category, proposed federal legislation that seeks to bar states from regulating pesticides and insecticides is in danger of being passed into law. A provision in the legislation, section 453, prohibits the EPA and adjacent agencies from updating production warning labels from original conclusions under the 1947 Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act. According to WineBusiness.com, in an article written by Michelle Williams, section 453 would “grant immunity to all foreign and domestic manufacturers” of these products for failure to “warn about product hazards.” It does appear to be as bad as it seems. Want more glyphosate and paraquat on your vines?
In better news, the Texas Wine Month Passport 2025 is available for purchase now. It gives you access to tastings, discounts, events, and other good things going on at more than 45 Texas Hill Country wineries from October 1 through October 31. A portion of the proceeds from passport sales goes toward the Texas Hill Country Wine Industry Scholarship Fund, so your pleasure will also help others.
There is, of course, more to this world than wine. Mise en Place, my site, is subtitled “Wine, Food, and Other Vital Things,” and literature and books are two of those vital things in my life. Henry Louis Gates Jr. has written a wonderful piece on Jamaica Kincaid’s work and life in the current issue of The New York Review of Books, and I recommend it wholeheartedly, whether you are familiar with Kincaid or not. Gardening, writing, Black literature, a moving, tempestuous relationship with a mother, and a woman whose early years in Manhattan have long enthralled me. Kincaid is the real thing, and has been for decades.
This week’s reading roster ends on a book, one that should, I strongly posit, be in the library of anyone who respects French wine, its history and place in the world, and its present and future. Get yourself a copy of Jon Bonné’s The New French Wineand revel in Chablis, Pinot Noir, insightful and moving profiles of producers and winemakers, and maps and impressions and opinions. It’s a great book, and will provide you with a lot of reading pleasure. You’ll learn some good things, too.
Aligoté can divide. There are those who disdain it openly, proud, it appears, to proclaim loudly to anyone who will listen that it is not worth the effort it takes to make, that the best Aligoté is inferior to the worst Chardonnay. On the other side of the line are the sane, knowing individuals, the ones who appreciate Aligoté and share their enthusiasm for it with their friends and acquaintances. If you encounter a character who belongs to the first group, nod in agreement and walk calmly away.
Aligoté is a proud grape; Burgundian winemakers love it (check out Les Aligoteurs) and yes, you’ll traditionally find it in your Kir cocktail. (Fascinating history and story behind that apéritif. It was originally known as a “blanc-cassis,” but now honors Félix Kir —1876 – 1968) — a former mayor of Dijon who served the drink to delegations visiting his city to showcase his region’s offerings. What was once made with crème de cassis and red wine had to be made with white wine after the Nazis had their way with Burgundy’s red wine stocks, and the tradition lives on. Put one part crème de cassis in a wine stem and follow with nine parts white wine. Here’s a recipe from the International Bartenders Association.)
Aligoté is in no way an inferior grape, contrary to what the misguided proclaim. It is a cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir, it is, after Chardonnay, the second most-planted variety in Burgundy, and it represents great value.
Drink this with oysters on the half shell.
One Aligoté that I enjoyed recently is Abbey Road Farm‘s 2023 vintage, available for $35 directly from the producer. I opened the sample bottle and thought, “I must pair this with briny, small oysters,” which is what I did. Royal Miyagi, with lemon and mignonette sauce. Poached shrimp would also be excellent. The wine carries a refined note of salinity, along with unripe apricot and Granny Smith apple. Delicate floral aromatics add to the pleasure. Whole-cluster pressing was used, and this estate Aligoté was aged sur lie for eight months in neutral French oak (70 percent) and in one new Austrian oak puncheon. Drink now.
Abbey Farm Road is an 82-acre farm, winery, and bed and breakfast in Carlton, Oregon. (Abbey Road Farm)
2022 Markham Vineyards Merlot, Napa Valley, California
I have my mind on a Napa Merlot that also represents great value for the price, and I’d recommend finding it soon, because it’s sold out at the producer’s website (though the 2023 vintage will be along soon). I have found it at retailers in the $25-$30 range, however, and it’s worth every dollar. I paired the 2022 Markham Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot with a rack of lamb, and the duo was the centerpiece of a fine meal.
Kimberlee Nicholls is a veteran winemaker and leads the Markham winemaking team. (Markham Vineyards)
This wine, from an all-female winemaking team, is dark red in the glass and offers aromas of black stone fruit, sensuous and warm. You get the familiar cherry and plum flavors on the palate, and freshness and vibrancy that spark conversation. The 2022 Merlot spent 18 months in oak barrels — 30 percent new — and was fermented in stainless steel. It is 95 percent Merlot, 3 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2 percent Malbec.
Markham’s estate vineyards — Yountville Ranch, Little Cannon, and Rockerbox —provide about a third of the fruit here, and head winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls and her team have produced a food-friendly wine that I’d gladly give to all of my cooking friends.
2024 Turnbull “Josephine” Sauvignon Blanc, Oakville AVA, California
Rounding out this edition of Tasting Notes is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Oakville AVA that I particularly liked. It’s available for $50 from the producer, Turnbull Wine Cellars, and holds a place on my list of top 10 Sauvignon Blancs tasted in the past year.
Turnbull Wine Cellars’ ‘Josephine’ Sauvignon Blanc: Graceful, complex, and delicious.
Peter Heitz is the winemaker at Turnbull, and he’s been quoted thusly in reference to this Sauvignon Blanc: “This wine gives me goosebumps — in the best way.” I did not get goosebumps when I tasted this wine, but I am in no position to quibble with Mr. Heitz, nor doubt his reaction, because I did love this bottle. I paired it with a pork loin (garlic, fennel, and parsley). Fermentation and élevage are carried out in terracotta amphorae, concrete tank, and French oak, and the result is an exhilarating journey of citrus joined with grace, complexity, and satisfying texture that pairs well with foods. I couldn’t ask for more in a Sauvignon Blanc.
Peter Heitz is a fourth-generation winemaker.
Fruit in this wine is primarily estate, from Turnbull’s Home Ranch and Fortuna vineyards, complemented by grapes from a North Coast site that sits at 1,600 feet above sea level. If you have friends who think Sauvignon Blanc is not worthy of pairing with serious food, who consider it a “pool sipper,” share some of this wine with them during a meal of the pork loin I mentioned and watch their reactions.
Ilove to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.
In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I encounter as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. Whether my subject is a sommelier, a collector, a winemaker, a chef, a buyer, or an avid drinker of wine, you’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well.
Pinot Noir is loved by many drinkers of wine, for good reason. It can, when handled properly, produce wines that are aromatic in a profound manner, silky and supple, and sublime on the palate and in the brain and soul. As the great Henri Jayer said, “Pinot must be full and fleshy, fat and concentrated, but discreet, supple, and soft at the same time, and it must have definition.”
In America, which produces some great examples of Pinot Noir, Kosta Browne made its name with the grape. Dan Kosta and Michael Browne founded the brand in 1997, and the duo’s 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir won Wine Spectator‘s Wine of the Year award in 2011. Kosta Browne was bought by Texas Pacific Group in 2009, and then in 2014 by J.W. Childs Associates in 2014. The two founders parted ways with the winery after the latter deal. In 2018, Duckhorn Wine Co. purchased Kosta Browne and owns it still.
Julien Howsepian, the subject of this edition of Wine Talk, worked as a harvest intern at Kosta Browne for the 2012 vintage, and impressed Michael Browne and winemaker Nico Cueva (more on him below). They offered him a permanent position for the next harvest, and he has been the head winemaker at Kosta Browne since 2019. He has a French father and a Dutch mother, has a degree in viticulture and enology from the UC Davis, and was raised in Northern California’s Bay Area. Needless to say, he loves Pinot Noir. But he also has a soft spot for Chardonnay.
I write about Kosta Browne’s Burgundy Series recently, and hearing what Howsepian had to say about his ventures there was the catalyst for wanting to feature him in Wine Talk. Let’s see what’s on his mind.
James Brock: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?
Julien Howsepian: 2010 Kosta Browne Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir. We featured this wine recently at our 20-year partnership working with the Franscioni and Pisoni families in Santa Lucia Highlands, and this wine was screaming. It had 40 percent whole cluster and was so complex and fresh for being almost 15 years old. Something simple like stewed trout in tomato sauce would be killer with a wine like this.
Next, the 2021 Kosta Browne Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir is a classic Kosta Browne wine. 2021 was an incredible vintage, a perfect growing season that produced wines with excellent aging potential but that are also fresh and elegant young. Being a year with slightly elevated acidities, I would love to pair it with a pork tenderloin with a cherry reduction sauce.
2019 Domaine Chanson Clos de Feves 1er Cru Pinot Noir is an excellent wine from a resurgent iconic producer in Burgundy. Still affordable, 2019 was an excellent year in Burgundy, producing approachable wines that are really hitting their stride. This would be great with a terrine and baguette. Bon appetit!
JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why.
JH: I would love to add Gaja Barbaresco San Lorenzo to my personal collection. I visited many years ago and have loved the wines ever since, but rarely get the chance to enjoy them. Sometimes wine takes you on an adventure back in time, and that was a formidable trip to Italy and the rest of Europe, both personally and professionally.
JB: What is your favorite grape, and why? If you don’t have a single favorite, tell me about one that you are especially passionate about.
JH: This one is an easy one for me: Pinot. Pinot Noir offers a lifetime of exploration through all the great growing regions of the world. The endless expressions of terroir, the ageability, the diverse food pairings … it’s the heartbreak grape for a reason. It’s just a lot of fun to try everyone’s different takes on how to make Pinot. And of course, there’s always Blanc de Noirs, so you know, there’s that to enjoy, too!
Pinot Noir, a grape that has broken many hearts and brought joy to millions. (Illustration by Felloni Claire)
JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day?
JH: As mentioned, I think 2021 was an incredible vintage for California Pinot, so I would recommend the 2021 Kosta Browne Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir. Cerise Vineyard is located in Anderson Valley, which is a small appellation in Mendocino County. Cerise Vineyard is a unique hillside vineyard in a unique appellation, producing wines that are lower in alcohol, higher in tannin and not as fruity as most other California Pinots. And I think it’s perfect to age because the aromas will evolve beautifully as the tannins integrate over time. The 2021 is tasting phenomenal today, but I think its best days are still ahead. (Editor’s Note: Duckhorn Wine Co.’s purchase of Kosta Browne included Cerise Vineyard.)
Kosta Browne winemaker recommends that you cellar this bottle and uncork it in 2035. (Courtesy Kosta Browne)
JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle (outside your home and workplace)?
JH: One of the most classic and best restaurants for ambience and food in Sonoma County is Underwood Bar and Bistro in Graton. Graton is a tiny, rural, unincorporated town whose downtown stretches all of one block, but Underwood is like stepping into a restaurant bar in the middle of a happenin’ city. Usually quite busy but rarely overcrowded, it’s frequented by many winemakers, grape growers, and others alike.
JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?
JH: Wine is a magical, mysterious product that is ingrained in our DNA. It’s also sometimes hard to understand and can be a little intimidating or pretentious. But wine is meant to be enjoyed, to be shared with food, family and friends. It enriches our lives in many ways, and is not meant to be taken too seriously. There’s a niche for that, but what matters most is that you love it, it is as simple as that and nothing more.
JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?
JH: I remember the first time I tasted a Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Premier Cru. I certainly didn’t understand or appreciate it, because at the time I didn’t think it tasted like much. But my good friend and boss at the time, Nico Cueva, who would become my wine mentor, explained to me how to appreciate a subtle and elegant wine, and that wine doesn’t have to punch you in the face to be good. A wine can be ultra-refined, delicate, all about finesse and subtlety. And the way that wine evolved in the glass was remarkable, so after that I was hooked on Chardonnay.
Julien Howsepian inspects fruit at Kosta Browne’s facility.
JB: What has been the strangest moment/incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?
JH: I’m having a really difficult time thinking about the strangest moment, but one story comes to mind. I had a work dream one night during harvest that we were sorting fruit and there was a ton of garlic mixed in, but we couldn’t keep up with removing all the garlic. I ran up to find the winemaker who was in his office, which was dimly lit, and after telling him what was happening, he simply said, “Let the gold through.” I told the team my dream the next day, and everyone thought it was odd and funny. A week or two later, we were sorting a Pinot block from Anderson Valley, and there was a lot of Chardonnay mixed in. This block had some errant Chardonnay interplanted, and when I texted the winemaker about what to do, he responded, “Let the gold through.” It was a pretty funny moment, and very strange to have somehow foreseen that a bit.
JB: What is your dream wine-tasting and touring locale?
JH: Argentina. I visited when I was in my 20s, but it was not a wine-related trip. The mountain backdrop to the wine country looks spectacular, and I love mountains. I’ve also never given the proper time to explore the wines of Argentina, so I’m sure I’d love them if I could find the time to take up another region.
This bug is bad: Phylloxera and wine have an infamous relationship. (The Phylloxera, a True Gourmet, Finds Out the Best Vineyards and Attaches Itself to the Best Wines. Edward Linley Sambourne, Punch, September 6, 1890.)
JB: Your favorite wine reference in a work of literature?
Linda Milagros Violago, wine director at Canlis, sits at the restaurant's piano. "I want to invest more time and energy in things that promote growth – both for myself and others. (Photo by Amber Fouts)
Ilove to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.
In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I encounter as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. Whether my subject is a sommelier, a collector, a winemaker, a chef, a buyer, or an avid drinker of wine, you’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well.
Dining at Canlis had been on my agenda for a good number of years. I was in Seattle for a week or so back in 2010, part of an itinerary I had devised that included reuniting with friends residing on the West Coast (Portland and Seattle) and a visit with family in Florida.
I was living in Dubai at the time, working at a newspaper, and the trip was much needed. I wanted to get a table at Canlis during my trip, but part of my reason for being in Seattle was a reunion with some friends from my German high school, a gathering that featured a number of events and meals that took up most of my time. Canlis had to wait.
The welcoming and elegant entrance to Canlis. (Photo Courtesy Canlis)
Last year, I made it, finally. We flew up to Seattle, en route to Bremerton, where we would be staying with friends, former colleagues of mine with whom I worked at a newspaper in Westchester County, N.Y. Before taking a ferry over to Kitsap County we spent the evening at Canlis, a reservation for four secured with the help of Aisha Ibrahim, who was hired in 2021 as the restaurant’s first female chef – it’s had seven chefs, including Ibrahim, since it served its first dish 75 years ago. (Ibrahim, who helmed Canlis’ kitchen for nearly four years, has left the restaurant, along with her sous chef and life partner, Samantha Beaird; the pair plan to open their own place in either Los Angeles or New York. In other recent Canlis news, Brian Canlis is also parting ways with his family’s restaurant; he has accepted a role in Nashville with Will Guidara. His brother, Mark Canlis, remains at the establishment.)
A view into the main dining room at Canlis. (Photo by Kevin Scott/Canlis)
The meal was outstanding, as were the service and the ambiance. If you know anything about Canlis, you’ll be aware that it is an architectural star, and from the moment one glimpses the distinctive exterior of the restaurant the building itself becomes a vital component of one’s experience.
A quartet of dishes begins a meal at Canlis. (Photo by James Brock)
But the food and design at Canlis are not the foci of this piece. The star of this Wine Talk is Linda Milagros Violago, who happens to be the first female director of the restaurant’s vaunted wine program.
Fish done well at Canlis. (Photo by James Brock)
Violago was born in Winnipeg, and refers to herself as “a first-generation Filipina/Canadian and citizen of the world.” She’s worked – for more than 35 years – in restaurants in 13 countries, including at Michelin-starred luminaries in Europe (such as Mugaritz in Spain and In De Wulf in Belgium) and fine- and casual-dining places in North America, Charlie Trotter’s among them. She even, during the Covid pandemic, scooped and served ice cream at a shop in her Canadian hometown. She’s well traveled, and adaptable, to say the least.
Linda Milagros Violago sits at the piano in Canlis. (Photo by Amber Fouts)
Violago has also worked four harvests, and she’s brewed sake in Japan. When she’s not on the floor or in the cellar at Canlis, she’s traveling, practicing yoga – she teaches yoga and breathing to her colleagues – and spreading the word about the importance of intentional movement, which she credits with helping her “get through life and service” at her places of work.
Violago is thoughtful, careful with her words, and genuinely loves what she does. Let’s see what she has to say in Wine Talk.
James Brock: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?
Linda Milagros Violago: In no particular order:
The 2022 Domaine du Gringet Etraz. I have always loved Dominique Belluard’s wines, and this new project that has arisen after his death is sure to just grow and evolve in a beautiful way. This wine, though young, is just so special and unique. It’s also so drinkable now, but will definitely age well. I like this with one of our courses that has aged and smoked salmon served with silken tofu and crispy cabbage.
Domaine du Gringet: Continuing the legacy of Dominique Belluard.
Next, the 1996 Domaine de Montille Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru. I am not being cheeky. After a long conversation with a guest who wanted to splash out on wine and trying something with age, I served this bottle, and it did not disappoint. It was still so youthful and powerful, but elegant, too. I love old Nebbiolo, but I also really love old Burgundy, and wines from this generation (or earlier) just evolve in a really fun and satisfying way throughout the meal.
A Burgundian jewel.
Finally, anything from Bérêche & Fils. People who know me know that I love to support the small growers in Champagne. The brut reserve from Bérêche & Fils is just so easy to drink and yet so pleasing and complex. We just recently poured it by the glass at Canlis and the initial response was always, “Yes, that’s perfect,” and then a few sips later, “Wow, this is really great!” Great for apéro, great with our truffle fries, great with our whole menu.
JB: How did Covid-19 change your life, personally and professionally?
LMV: I want to invest more time and energy in things that promote growth – both for myself and others. I want to do something every day that brings me joy – reading, moving, listening to the birds … something that fills my cup and restores me. Professionally, I’ve changed how I talk about wine – to peers, to students, to guests. More than ever we need to make our discussions like real conversations, and not just us at the table talking to guests. We want them to feel good about what they chose and feel free to ask questions and describe in their own words what they want.
JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why.
LMV: That’s tough! A guest recently asked me if I were sitting down and had no budget, what would I drink? There are many options, and I do not regret serving him the 1996 Château Rayas.
JB: What is your favorite grape, and why? If you don’t have a single favorite, tell me about one that you are especially passionate about.
LMV: I have a few favourites, but old Nebbiolo makes me giddy and old Burgundy (red or white) brings me joy.
JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day?
Cayuse Widowmaker – yes, a wine that isn’t any of the grape varieties that I mentioned!
JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle (outside your home and workplace)?
JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?
LMV: Don’t be afraid to try something different, don’t be afraid to zero in on what you like and don’t like, and learning how to express that is as important as learning how to express it when you’re shopping for anything else.
JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?
LMV: The wine that got me into wine as a very simple Alsatian Gewürztraminer from the early ’90s. It was then that I was able to first grasp at the different layers of wine.
Linda Milagros Violago is making history at Canlis. (Jeremy P. Beasley/Canlis)
JB: What has been the strangest moment/incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?
LMV: This was a strange interaction with guests. There was an older couple dining with two young women. One of them was the couple’s daughter and I am not sure about the relationship with the other young woman (she stayed quiet). The older couple were quite the characters. The man wanted to talk options, the woman – who was celebrating her birthday – stated, “I want red wine!” It was all very convivial and fun. They had a round of cocktails to start and I was looking forward to the conversation with them. The man turned to his daughter and asked if she was joining in the wine, and she refused, saying she “didn’t want to lose any brain cells.”
I’m in my 50s, I would guess that her parents were about my age, so we looked at each other and laughed and somehow got into a conversation of what we do to keep sharp: brain games, etc. And I talked about neuroplasticity. The daughter just refused, again, repeating that she didn’t want to lose any brain cells. But, she did want some sparkling wine. I mentioned our options of wines by the glass, but somehow that wasn’t what she wanted (she wanted bubbles, but didn’t want to order a glass, didn’t want to lose brain cells, and, honestly, it wasn’t clear what she did want.) Eventually, we found a bottle of wine for the parents to drink. The daughter did keep complaining about not having sparkling wine but wouldn’t order a glass. This happened just last year.
JB: Your favorite wine reference in a work of literature?
LMV: Rumi: “Gratitude is the wine for the soul. Go on. Get drunk.”
Less esoteric: Shakespeare, from “As You Like It”: “I pray you, do not fall in love with me, for I am falser than vows made in wine.”
Daniel Maclise (1806–1870), The Wrestling Scene in ‘As You Like It’ (1854), oil on canvas, 129 x 177.1 cm, location not known. (Wikimedia Commons)
I am looking forward to tasting some Grenache Blanc, Counoise, and Albariño (among other “neglected” wines from California) on Saturday, March 29, in Los Angeles. I’ll be doing so at The Festival of Forgotten Grapes. What do I mean by “neglected”? Read on.
The Festival of Forgotten Grapes takes place on March 29 in Los Angeles. (Sandoval Media)
The festival exists, in the words of its organizers, “to celebrate the underdogs of the California Wine World.” These grapes represent 7 percent of the state’s vine plantings – the varieties that comprise the other 93 percent are Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Syrah, and Petite Sirah – and while the “forgotten” moniker might not be apt for, say, Riesling, I venture that many drinkers of wine are not familiar with Ruché or Trousseau Gris. And I know that we all love an underdog, so this festival is for you.
Last year’s event was an organized and efficient affair, and a new venue for this year’s edition – and additional food vendors – promises improvement. Pizza ovens are again part of the plan (I recall an excellent pepperoni pie at 2024’s event with which I paired a Nebbiolo), and there will be ample seating as well. No one likes the adventure of standing with wine glass in one hand and plated food in the other, juggling both with awkwardness.
A pie at last year’s Festival of Forgotten Grapes. (Sandoval Media)
But the stars of the festival are the producers (click here for the lineup) and the purchase and shipping system set up by the event’s organizers. In brief, here’s what you need to know about the latter: purchase one bottle or 144 bottles, and the good people behind the event will personally deliver your treasure at no cost (for VIP ticket holders), or $15 if you choose the general admission route. Exception for the GA people: If you purchase 12 bottles or more you, too, will be treated to free delivery. Don’t live in California? Sorry to hear that, but your wine can still be delivered to you for a reasonable shipping rate.
VIP attendees will also take home a copy of the most recent Slow Wine Guide USA and can enter the festival at noon, two full hours ahead of the hoi polloi – more time to taste and eat and mingle. Click here to purchase tickets ($99 for VIP and $69 for GA – use promo code Brockhaus10 for a $10 discount on GA passes). (A portion of ticket proceeds will benefit Minds Matter Southern California.)
Tansy Wines will be poured at The Festival of Forgotten Grapes.
I was impressed with the scope, diversity, and quality of producers at last year’s event, and do not expect to be disappointed this year. I love what William Allen and Karen Daenen produce at Two Shepherds, including a Cinsault made from the Bechthold Vineyard in Lodi, which was planted in 1886, and a lovely Pinot Meunier (Hopkins Ranch/Russian River Valley). Then there’s Tansy Wines, owned by Kitty Oestlien and Shelley Lindgren. I’ve yet to taste anything they’ve made that disappointed, be it a Fiano I paired with some soft and hard cheeses or the pair’s Red Field Blend. Honest winemaking here.
William Allen holding one of his canned wines at the Two Shepherds facility in Windsor, Sonoma County. (James Brock Media)
William La Follette at the 2024 Festival of Forgotten Grapes. (Sandoval Media)
Most of the wines poured at the festival, which is organized and run by Allison Levine and Chris Kern, are made from varieties planted during the early days of the state’s wine industry or before the Judgment of Paris. This means you’ll taste history, and take some home with you.
Allison Levine (top row third from left) and Chris Kern (top row fifth from left), the duo behind The Festival of Forgotten Grapes. (Sandoval Media)
California is rich with men and women making great wines, and The Festival of Forgotten Grapes is among the best events showcasing some of the state’s producers. Hope to see you there.
Procrastination is a funny thing, according to my go-to confidante and spiritual guide on the matter, Carl Gustav Jung. To put it bluntly and briefly, he posits that it is a neurosis. But it is more complicated than one might think. For the purposes of this piece, which is geared especially for procrastinators, let’s go with this blunt thesis: You delay because you are seeking to avoid pain, pain you fear will be produced by your actions. I’m here to tell you, however, that you need not fear any discomfort from the action of buying any of the following three items as last-minute gifts for the wine lovers in your life. (The first part of my 2024 Wine Gift Guide came out in a more timely manner, but I’m sure you have an abundance of gift-worthy friends and could use even more recommendations, so consider this my bonus for you.)
Wine Spectator likes this one.
First up, a wine that was awarded the top spot on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of the World for 2024. It’s the 2021 Viña Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Vineyard, and you can get it for $150 directly from the producer, and at lower prices at many retailers. It carries a suggested retail price of $175. Enrique Tirado is the winemaker at Viña Don Melchor, and his reputation is one of excellence. He’s been in charge of production at Don Melchor since the harvest of 1997, and his experience and talent are on display in the 2021, the 35th vintage of this wine.
The Puente Alto Vineyard, a Chilean landmark, encompasses 314 acres and seven major parcels, and was originally planted more than a century ago; it was replanted after Concha y Toro, the parent company of Don Melchor, purchased it in 1968. The 2021 is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with 4 percent Cabernet Franc and 3 percent Merlot. This is a serious wine, and since I like to offer a food pairing with the wines I recommend, I urge you to buy the finest example of ribeye steak you can find and cook it medium rare, with nothing but olive oil, salt, and pepper. Let it rest for 8 to 10 minutes before you slice it. The Don Melchor’s velvety aroma – I savored the tobacco and cacao notes – impressed me, as did the kirsch and raspberry hints. Sensual tannins and a long, confident finish complete the package. I daresay that almost anyone on your gift list would appreciate adding this bottle to their collection, no matter what they think of “Wine Spectator” rankings.
Enrique Tirado, winemaker at Viña Don Melchor.
“The 2021 vintage provided us with very expressive wines, brimming with concentration, dense and long, that cast a spotlight on the fruit and textural quality of every variety grown in the Don Melchor Vineyard, displaying a fine balance between finesse and energy, with extremely expressive flavors and aromas,” Tirado said. The winemaker sums it up with grace.
An enormous number of books devoted to all aspects of the wine world have been published, and while my library is always expanding, I want to offer two of my all-time favorites to you, dear procrastinator. The first one I purchased many years ago in Germany, and it became worn and dog-eared from the myriad times I perused it and opened it for research. That original copy was long ago recycled, but the 8th edition of The World Atlas of Wine, by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, is available and should be in the collection of anyone who loves wine. Johnson wrote the first edition of this masterpiece, which was published in 1971, and the subsequent three editions, and Robinson took over in 1998 and has been in charge of the most recent four editions, including the current (8th) edition. Its 417 pages are packed with the wisdom and wit of Johnson and Robinson, along with maps, charts, and other information that will become indispensable. I look forward to many future editions of this work.
The World Atlas of Wine is indispensable.
The second book on this list, which I cherish and recommend without hesitation, is The Vines of San Lorenzo, by Edward Steinberg. Its subtitle is “Making a Great Wine in the New Tradition,” and the author’s wonderfully captivating storytelling draws the reader in from the opening page. The volume tells the tale of the Gaja Sorì San Lorenzo 1989 vintage and brings to life Angelo Gaja, a legend of the wine world who made Barbaresco a star. The book includes vintage photographs of some of the personalities that populate Steinberg’s tale, including members of the Gaja family, and transports one to the lands and soils that have produced some of the finest wines ever made. Literary in style and never slow, “The Vines of San Lorenzo” makes a great stocking stuffer.
Now, get online, or out there, and make some people very happy with these three gift ideas.
I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and winemakers, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot. In Wine Talk, I introduce you to some of my friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste.
You’ll appreciate their insights, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well.
Wine and family: I love those two words. They make my mind wander to Germany, where I first began learning about and drinking wine (Riesling, natürlich); I moved there when my father, who was in the U.S. Air Force, was assigned to Europe. My time spent there made me, in large part, who I am today. Those words also bring forth memories of visiting wineries and meeting the families who founded them and put their energy and love into their land and bottles. One is lucky indeed if family and wine are there for you.
I met a family recently, a wine family, one that hails from Austin and now owns a prime piece of property in Calistoga, California, 10.5 acres once known as the Dutch Henry Winery. The Glass Fire devastated most of the estate’s infrastructure, but its cave was spared. And this family, the Epprights, have big plans for the property. Enter Parable Wines.
First, a brief introduction: Fred Eppright, the owner of a commercial real estate firm based in Austin, has a son named Trey, who took his first sip of wine in 1999 or 2000, aged 15 (he was allowed one sip only). Trey later began to immerse himself in all things wine, especially Wine Library TV, and in 2013, after traveling and tasting and learning, decided to establish a career in wine. Trey, who graduated from Texas A&M, spent some time in Oregon in 2020 working for a friend who ran a farm that supplied produce to local restaurants; he liked the work, getting his hands into the soil and growing things, practices that put him in good stead when he convinced his father that buying a property and making wine was a great idea.
In 2021, the Epprights – Fred and his wife, Paula, and Trey and brother Matt – purchased the Calistoga property that was formerly occupied by the Dutch Henry Winery, and that’s where the big plans really took off.
The Parable team. From left, Kale Anderson, Fred Eppright, Paula Eppright, Matt Eppright, Trey Eppright, and Brian Kelleher, Parable’s general manager.
Of the 10.5 acres on the Parable estate, 2.4 originally hosted Syrah; they are now planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Epprights, with winemaker Kale Anderson, hope to bottle their first estate vintage in 2025 or 2026. To commence the Parable journey, Trey and Kale began sourcing fruit from other locales, including the Vangone Vineyard, the Ritchie Vineyard, and the Beckstoffer Bourn Vineyard. In addition, Parable has signed a five-year sourcing contract with Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard and plans to produce a Cabernet Sauvignon with that famed and expensive fruit; the 2024 vintage will be released in 2027.
If you want to purchase Parable’s current offerings, which include a 2021 Beckstoffer Bourn Cabernet Sauvignon, a ’21 Vangone Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2022 Chardonnays from Ritchie Vineyard and Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard, check out this section of the winery’s site. The Parable team is using a custom crush facility to produce its wines, but plans to move all production onto the property and will also use the 4,400-square-foot cave.
Let’s see what Trey has to say in Wine Talk:
James Brock:Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each?
Trey Eppright: The 2021 Parable Vangone Cabernet Sauvignon ($225) is drinking beautifully now. It’s a classic Atlas Peak Cab. I would have it with barbecued pork ribs and beef brisket (and not just because I’m from Texas).
The 2021 Parable Vangone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.
The 2022 Parable Ritchie Creek Chardonnay ($90) from the Russian River is just beautiful. It was fermented in a concrete egg, instead of an oak barrel, which gives it wonderful complexity. I’d have the Ritchie with raw oysters and/or a flaky white fish with lemon butter sauce.
The 2022 Parable Ritchie Creek Chardonnay.
The third wine, which I had recently and is drinking fabulously, is the 2012 Maya Dalla Valle Red Blend. It’s a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a perfect wine made in some of the most special soils, and has everything you’d want in a wine. Funnily enough, I had it with pork and beef tacos. (Editor’s note: Not many bottles of this vintage are on the market, but a quick search found a few going for around $450; JJ Buckley is selling the 2020 vintage for $599.)
Trey Eppright, managing partner at Parable Wines.
JB: How did COVID-19 change your life, both personally and professionally?
TE: Because of Covid, I ended up with a winery in Napa Valley. My life couldn’t have changed much more if it wasn’t for Covid. During the pandemic I moved to Oregon and got into farming; and then to California, where my family and I bought a winery, which turned out to be Parable. Otherwise, I would have stayed in Austin, where I grew up, where I would’ve tried to figure out my life. Covid helped me figure a lot out.
JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why.
TE: DRC (Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) Échezeaux Grand Cru. I paid $2,000. Which was 30 percent below market. I said, “I guess I have to.” La Tache (DRC) and Salon (Cuvee ‘S’ Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut) Champagne would be great, too. It’s a toss-up. There are too many good wines.
JB: What is your favorite grape, and why? If you don’t have a single favorite, tell me about one that you are especially passionate about.
TE: I don’t have a favorite. That would be real boring. But if you forced me, it would be Syrah. I’m also super passionate about Chardonnay. But Syrah is very versatile. It shows terroir very well. It really has a good sense of place, and it’s a fun grape to work with. As a winemaker, your input means a lot. And Chardonnay is interesting because it produces Champagne and still wine.
Kale Anderson, winemaker at Parable.
JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day?
TE: The 2018 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon from the MacDonald brother’s section of To Kalon Vineyard. It has so much power, so much energy. But it needs a 12-hour decant. As far as vineyards in Napa Valley, it’s an amazing, perfect wine, but it still needs 10 years in the bottle. (Editor’s note: Angry Wine Merchant is selling this vintage for $1,095. This wine will age wonderfully for decades.)
JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle (outside your home and workplace)?
TE:V Wine Cellars in Yountville. It’s a special wine bar. It has couches, and the selection is great. Anything you can dream of, they’ve got it. Good Chardonnays and Champagnes. And on Fridays there’s a very good chance, after 2 pm, if you want to meet a vintner or a winemaker, this is the place.
JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?
TE: Enjoy it. Just fuckin’ enjoy it. I think sometimes we all take wine too seriously. Enjoy it and share it. Take a second to appreciate it. Close your eyes on that first sip.
JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?
TE: The first sip of wine I’d ever had changed my direction in life. It was the ’93 Dom Perignon Champagne, in 1999 or 2000. It was that whole thing: a lawyer had won a big case and brought it to this place. There was Dom stuffed into a commercial icemaker. I was only allowed to have one glass, but … I was 15.
Have you tasted this vintage?
JB: What has been the strangest moment/incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?
TE: I shared a bottle of ’82 Salon with Lady Gaga’s bandleader, Brian Newman, in Las Vegas. He was doing a performance after a Gaga show, and the next day I was seated next to him at brunch. I handed a glass of the Salon to him. And we became friends, playing blackjack and sharing a joint.
The entrance to the cave at Parable Wines.
JB: Your favorite wine reference in a work of literature (fiction, film, poem, etc.)?
“Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures.” – Michael Broadbent, British wine critic/wine writer.
That saying simply states one of my favorite pastimes and something I get to do often.
It’s been too long since I dined at Rossoblu, an Italian restaurant located in Los Angeles’ Arts District. The food is commendable, the restaurant’s interior is well designed and comfortable, and the wine list contains lots of quality.
At the end of this month I’ll visit Rossoblu again, for Taste of Italy: Ancient Rome, a family-style meal with wine pairings selected and led by Jeremy Parzen. I met Jeremy Parzen back in 2013 or 2014 in Houston, and it’s also been too long since I’ve seen him.
Steve Samson, Rossoblu’s chef.
Steve Samson, the chef at Rossoblu, has put together a menu steeped in history, and here’s what you’ll eat on July 31 if you make a reservation for the dinner:
Columella salad: fresh greens and herbs, pecorino cheese, soft-boiled egg, garum and pine nut dressing
Puls Tractogalata: farro pasta circles with roasted lamb
Stuffed porchetta: sausage and fig, honey sauce, coriander lentils
Savillum: ancient Roman cheesecake with bay leaves and honey
Parzen says he is keeping the cost of the wine pairing as low as possible. “The menu is very reasonably priced and the wine pairing (including generous pours) is priced aggressively so as to make it accessible to all. It’s a great deal and I have some awesome wines lined up,” he writes.
In my head, Trimalchio’s dinner is coming to life … toga optional.
Want a seat at the table: Here’s a link to the dinner, and I hope to see you there.
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