Wine, Food, and Other Vital Things

Tag: What I’m Reading

What I’m Reading: An Umbrian Legend Passes, Asimov’s Picks, and Wine and Dementia

The news never stops coming, and keeping up with everything is an impossible task. Regrettably, there are too few hours in a day that one can devote to reading, and though I attempt to stay on top of as much as I can, my stacks of newspapers, magazines, and books are always beckoning (and expanding). There’s wine and food, of course, but there’s so much more, from literature and cinema to essays and profiles. Here’s a look at a few things that caught my eye this week.

Wine and its relationship with human health is a topic that has produced words aplenty. Morley Safer’s episode on “60 Minutes” in 1991 has long been cited in this discussion, and more recently the WHO has weighed in, stating in a widely read proclamation that “no level of alcohol consumption is safe for our health.” Dr. Erik Skovenborg, a Danish family medicine doctor who specializes in the health implications of drinking, has weighed in about wine and dementia, and his words make for good reading.

Morley Safer and ’60 Minutes’ convinced Americans to increase their consumption of red wine.

Speaking of wine and health, the CEO of the U.S. Alcohol Policy Alliance, Mike Marshall, says the guidelines issued this month by the U.S. government are “a win for the alcohol industry” (and, I add, its lobbyists). Gone are serving-size regulations; instead, the government advises, “consume less alcohol for better health.” Here is one look at the report.

This year, some of the wines Eric Asimov wants you to drink have “been the victims of stereotypes.” Others have “fallen by the wayside because of evolving tastes, changing attitudes about health, and busier lives.” His 10 genres of wines in this piece , which highlights the “unfashionable, ignored, or dismissed,” includes selections from Bordeaux and Napa, bottles of port and Madeira and sherry, and sweet Rieslings. I approve of his directive.

Don’t forget the vinyl.

Natural wine. Should I stop here? I’ve long grown tired of the phrase and all of the accessories and (often) misguided performances that have come to be associated with it. I like good wine, wine that appeals to my palate and makes my food better. I suspect you share my method, though dictated by your palate. Well, no matter. Natural wine has made its impact, and here’s one take on just that.

When’s the last time you opened a bottle of wine hailing from the Snake River Valley AVA? How about the Lewis-Clark Valley AVA or the Eagle Foothills AVA? Idaho’s winemakers want you to get to know their products, and here’s a primer on the state’s viticultural universe.

Jean-Charles Boisset is a busy man. His Boisset Collection oversees Raymond Vineyards, DeLoach, and Buena Vista, not to mention Oakville Grocery. Two actions the Frenchman recently took might free up some of his time: He closed two of his Napa Valley tasting rooms. Mon dieu.

The always dapper Jean-Charles Boisset strikes a pose in one of this establishments.

A writers’ festival in Australia has come asunder after its organizers disinvited a Palestinian-Australian author, a decision that writers including Zadie Smith and Percival Everett reacted to by disinviting themselves from Adelaide Writers’ Week. Words matter.

I’ve become a fan of “The Pitt,” and I would wager that many of you are also watching Noah Wyle as Dr. Robby. It is a moving and fast-paced drama full of heart and trauma and personalities; it is great television. Sam Anderson visited the show’s set in Los Angeles for this captivating article.

Staying in Hollywood, Matthew Deller writes that the drinks business could learn a thing or two from cinema. “Wine’s opportunity is to reclaim its place at the center of the table by restoring the social clarity that once defined it,” Deller says. Read the piece here.

Arnaldo Caprai, who passed away on Jan. 4, was a vital ambassador of Sagrantino. (Arnaldo Caprai image)

I spent the winter holidays in Umbria one year, and fell in love with the land, wines, and cuisine there. A visit to Arnaldo Caprai was for me one of the highlights of the sojourn, and news that the founder of the winery passed away on Jan. 4 saddened me. He was a kind man, and Montefalco and Sagrantino owe him much. Here’s one appreciation of the vintner.

Finally this week, forget Dry January, proclaims Robert Camuto. Instead, “years, loves, and glasses of wine should never be counted.” Here’s Camuto making a grand case for the Italian way of life.

What I’m Reading: Fake Champagne, Pesticide Dangers, and Henry Louis Gates Jr. on Jamaica Kincaid

Didier Chopin’s life has been a touch hectic during the past several years. The winemaker was sent to jail this week for 18 months after being found guilty of selling hundreds of thousands of bottles of fake Champagne — or should I write “champagne”? He’s also facing sexual assault charges. He was sentenced in a court in Reims. Fake bubbles are not cool.

It was, for a long while, my favorite restaurant in New York. Wedding anniversaries and birthdays were all celebrated there, and I never had a bad time at the Waverly Place Italian destination, no matter if dining at the bar (where on one evening I had a long and pleasant conversation with Jay McInerney), upstairs in the former hay loft, or at “my” table at the far end (on the right) of the downstairs dining room. Babbo was the place — is the place. I sadly had my first awful experience at the restaurant back in 2019, the last time I was there for dinner, so am looking forward to seeing how Mark Ladner transforms the place. He knows it and its creator, Mario Batali, quite well, after all. I hope the Mint Love Letters are on his menu.

A new owner and chef for an old favorite of mine. (Photo by Heath Brandon)

Jess Lander has written a downright dystopian article in the San Francisco Chronicle about the 2025 harvest in California. “Tens of thousands of acres of vineyards have been ripped out across the state, and despite mostly ideal weather conditions this growing season, more than 100,000 tons of California wine grapes will likely be left on the vines to rot — for the second consecutive year,” Lander writes. Brutal, indeed.

To continue in the less-than-good-news category, proposed federal legislation that seeks to bar states from regulating pesticides and insecticides is in danger of being passed into law. A provision in the legislation, section 453, prohibits the EPA and adjacent agencies from updating production warning labels from original conclusions under the 1947 Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act. According to WineBusiness.com, in an article written by Michelle Williams, section 453 would “grant immunity to all foreign and domestic manufacturers” of these products for failure to “warn about product hazards.” It does appear to be as bad as it seems. Want more glyphosate and paraquat on your vines?

In better news, the Texas Wine Month Passport 2025 is available for purchase now. It gives you access to tastings, discounts, events, and other good things going on at more than 45 Texas Hill Country wineries from October 1 through October 31. A portion of the proceeds from passport sales goes toward the Texas Hill Country Wine Industry Scholarship Fund, so your pleasure will also help others.

There is, of course, more to this world than wine. Mise en Place, my site, is subtitled “Wine, Food, and Other Vital Things,” and literature and books are two of those vital things in my life. Henry Louis Gates Jr. has written a wonderful piece on Jamaica Kincaid’s work and life in the current issue of The New York Review of Books, and I recommend it wholeheartedly, whether you are familiar with Kincaid or not. Gardening, writing, Black literature, a moving, tempestuous relationship with a mother, and a woman whose early years in Manhattan have long enthralled me. Kincaid is the real thing, and has been for decades.

This week’s reading roster ends on a book, one that should, I strongly posit, be in the library of anyone who respects French wine, its history and place in the world, and its present and future. Get yourself a copy of Jon Bonné’s The New French Wine and revel in Chablis, Pinot Noir, insightful and moving profiles of producers and winemakers, and maps and impressions and opinions. It’s a great book, and will provide you with a lot of reading pleasure. You’ll learn some good things, too.

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