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Tag: Tony’s

Spring: Do not waste it. (Studio Grafikka)

Dishes on My Mind: Spring, Delicate and Bold

May 4, 2019 / / 0 Comments

Sitting at a table on Wednesday evening with four other diners, 1999 Perrier-Jouët and 2006 Nicolas Feuillatte in our glasses. We talked about memorable meals and weekends, the Kentucky Derby, and California wines.

The occasion: A winemaker was in Houston, and I was in the middle of a two-day tasting tour with him, his national sales director, and his wines (Component and State of Mind). The day had been full; joining us at dinner was a couple who had supported his wines from early on. Michael celebrated their patronage with this meal (and this couple shared their 20th wedding anniversary with us) at Tony’s.

Let’s get to the delicate part, and a dish I ordered on that evening, called Spring’s First Harvest. It was white asparagus, fava beans, and baby bibb lettuce, plated in a beautiful manner. I was in Spargelzeit heaven.

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White asparagus and fava beans, on the tasting menu at Tony’s in Houston.

The spear of asparagus — the best part, the tip and a small portion of the stalk — had a lingering crispness, and a taste that took me back to Germany, an earthy deepness that paired well with the fava beans. Each bite of this small journey was ethereal.

A few days earlier, at another table, around 10 o’clock in the evening, my brother-in-law, Mark, in town. Mark and Angela and I at Nobie’s. More spring, but, this time, definitely not delicate.

Bold is what this dish was, and, as with the asparagus dish at Tony’s, done well. Orecchiette made by hand, peas, pistachio pesto, lemon curd, and goat cheese. Plus, an optional addition, duck confit. Rich, wholly satisfying, a perfect ensemble. It’s called Orecchiette con Piselli.

You might not be able to find a better plate of pasta.

The pasta did almost melt in my mouth, save for a toothsome bite that gave way to a silky sensation. I’ve written about the pasta at Nobie’s, and have been nothing but impressed with what’s done with flour, eggs, and water (and perhaps olive oil and salt?) in Martin Stayer’s kitchen.

The peas, the lemon curd, the cheese, and the duck, each at peak freshness, seem made for the orecchiette, and if anyone alive pushed this plate away after one bite, I would not want to know them.

Ora king salmon marinated in Thai chili and blood orange, topped with basil and crisp farro.

For Your Consideration: Ōra King Salmon Crudo at Tony’s

February 12, 2019 / / 0 Comments

There is a (fairly) new menu at Tony’s, one of Houston’s restaurant-world mainstays. Crudi, to be exact. On it, you will find octopus, tuna, and Hamachi, paired with avocado or caviar or charred cucumber. And salmon.

Ōra King Salmon is there, too. And it’s what you should try today if you find yourself in Houston. The majestic fish is marinated in blood orange and Thai chili, and crisp farro adds texture. Then the fresh basil hits your palate and the dish is complete, and fresh and bright.

The crudi menu at Tony’s: seafood and citrus and more.

Crudo is Italian for “raw.” Pesce crudo is what you have here, and don’t confuse it with sashimi, as chef Victor LaPlanca told Food Republic. (LaPlanca was executive chef at Isola at the time.)

“Compared to sashimi, which I believe is really about appreciating the purity of masterfully sliced fish, crudo is very ingredient-driven. The oil used can dramatically alter the dish’s flavor profile,” says LaPlanca. “At Isola, we use cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil from Sicily. Because part of the beauty in crudo is its simplicity in preparation, the quality of the ingredients really matter. In order to understand how the different nuances of the oil affect the fish, try experimenting with various nut or even truffle oils to see how the dish’s flavor profile evolves.”

Austin Waiter, the executive chef at Tony’s, respects pesce, and knows how to combine olive oil and citrus and herbs for maximum effect on his crudi menu. The salmon in this dish is in no way overwhelmed by the accompanying ingredients; in fact, every individual component here shines on its own and plays well with its mates. Pair this with a glass of Malvasia Bianca — specifically, Onward’s Pétillant Naturel from Suisun Valley — and your meal will begin well.

Some meat: A ribeye fit for two (or three).

The Fall Season Arrives: Time for The Newness in Everything

October 25, 2017 / / 0 Comments

The light outside changes, becomes softer, less harsh; the temperature falls and the humidity grows friendlier; and spending more time outdoors becomes a pleasant reality. It’s autumn, the best time, in my opinion, to enjoy what’s on offer in the world. The new season brings new art exhibits, theatre performances, fashion, and, thank goodness, wines and food. New dishes, menus, ingredients, and pairings await in restaurants everywhere. It’s a good time to taste.

Want some good tastes? Have you experienced duck heart bolognese? If not, pay a visit to One Fifth/Romance Languages in Houston and embrace the new. It’s rich and hearty and comforting, and my pasta (casarecce) was just as I like it … one small second past al dente. In addition, I offer you a fine ribeye from Del Frisco’s and an impressive foie gras concoction that’s on the menu at Tony’s. You can read more about these three dishes here. Book a table (or sit at the bar), order some wine, relax a little, and live.

Order this as an opener, or at the end of your evening.

If you cook at home — and if you don’t, you’re missing out on a meditative ritual — here’s a great recipe for salmon that’s warming on an autumn evening. It’s easy to make, and it pairs perfectly with that bottle of Lambrusco you’ve been wanting to open. Want more fun? Cook with someone who excites you. It’ll make the food that much more satisfying.

It was a tough summer … hurricanes and earthquakes and fires (I’m working on a piece about the disaster in Napa and Sonoma, so look for it here) affected millions, bringing despair, heartache, and death. Let’s hope that fall brings, along with the new, a touch of solace and rejuvenation. We could all use some of that.

Hamachi and Sorrel

Hamachi and Langoustine, Plus Dierberg and Star Lane: The Brockhaus Cooked at Tony’s

October 3, 2017 / / 2 Comments

The menu had been set for a few weeks, and the wines had arrived, shipped overnight from California. The Brockhaus was cooking at Tony’s.

My mind was, partially, in Berlin and Roanne while planning the dinner’s menu. Berlin because of two meals experienced on consecutive days in 2016 at Restaurant Tim Raue, and Roanne thanks to a documentary about Maison Troisgros and that great family of food. Dishes featuring langoustine and salmon, the former created by Raue, the latter by the famed French family. Austin Waiter, Tony’s chef de cuisine, and I had tweaked the methods and ingredients, and all was a go.

We cured Norwegian sea trout, covered the langoustine in corn starch, prepped the brioche and figs and hamachi. The kitchen at Tony’s was full of activity, as it always is. The pastry station was abuzz, the waiters were polishing cutlery and plates, and deliveries were arriving. Austin was working on the wasabi cream, and I was prepping the langoustine. All was on schedule. It was Monday, the 25th of September.

Hamachi awaits its sorrel

Hamachi awaits its sorrel

Norwegian trout cures

Norwegian trout cures

Twelve guests, nine wines. Kennady Cosby, the bar manager, had created a lavender-based cocktail that would begin the evening at 6:30 in the bar. Russ and Judy would be at the table, as would Jared and Cheryl, all regular Brockhaus patrons. New guests were on the list as well. It would, as always, be an eclectic and vibrant table.

Tony Vallone, the owner of Tony’s, had asked me several times if I wanted to hold a Brockhaus evening at his restaurant, and I finally accepted the generous (and somewhat intimidating) offer. Vallone, who also owns Ciao Bello and Vallone’s, has been the force behind Tony’s for more than 50 years, and he and his wife, Donna, have created something special in Houston. Tony’s is my favorite restaurant in Houston, is among my favorite places in the world, and it was an honor to cook in the kitchen there. A great honor.

The table is set …

The Wine Library at Tony’s (Nick de la Torre)

The venue was the Wine Library, an intimate space lined with walls of great vintages and anchored by a round table with seats for 12. Angela, one of The Brockhaus’ creators, had been relieved of her duties that evening, and would for the first time be a guest at the table.

At 6:30 sharp, I checked on the bar, and a few of our guests were mingling and sipping their cocktails. Angela was hosting, and, prep over, Austin and I finalized the plating. Wines were chilling, and the table was set.

Green tomato soup, Norwegian trout, and dill oil

Green tomato soup, Norwegian trout, and dill oil

Wasabi Langoustine

Wasabi Langoustine

Austin Waiter and James Brock

Austin Waiter and James Brock

A little after 7 p.m. we ushered the group to the Wine Library. Carlos poured the first wine, a Crémant from Alsace, and the meal began. The conversation at the table flowed, along with the wine. Jared, Russ, Judy, and Cheryl spoke of their past Brockhaus experiences, and the first-time guests added their personalities and contributions.

Austin and I greeted the diners, and the courses progressed. Burrata and prosciutto, cold tomato soup and trout, foie in a hole, hamachi and sorrel, pork belly and duck breast with chanterelle and maitake.

I had partnered with Dierberg and Star Lane vineyards — if you are not acquainted with their wines, make it a point to buy a few bottles — and the pairings were inspired.

Around 11 or so, dessert finished, the guests rose to leave, smiling, talking, and hugging. The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s was done.

Stay tuned for news about the next event …

A Wine Library Evening: The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s

August 23, 2017 / / 2 Comments

The Brockhaus is gearing up for a fall and winter full of inventive dishes and wines, and to kick off the season we’re excited to announce The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s, a seven-course dégustation set for September 25th. Tony’s is one of the finest restaurants around, and The Brockhaus is honored to be part of its 53-year ongoing story of excellence.

The Wine Library at Tony’s will be the stage for the evening; it’s an intimate and warm space, perfect for a leisurely and stimulating meal full of scintillating conversation. Click on the link below for the menu.

The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s

The Wine Library at Tony’s (Nick de la Torre)

Here’s what one of our guests wrote about his experience at The Brockhaus:

Thank you for an absolutely fantastic evening. The food was off the charts. We were amazed at the multiple layers of taste in each dish. I know you put a tremendous amount of work into the prep and cooking of the meal … it was apparent in the taste. We also enjoyed the company of your guests. It was a most engaging evening of conversation.

Another wrote: Such an exciting night to share with so many great dinner companions. I can’t stop thinking about the incredible menu.

Click here for more about The Brockhaus, and we hope to see you on the 25th.

What: The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s
When: Monday, September 25
Tariff: $175
For details, and to reserve a seat: The_Brockhaus (at) iCloud.com

 

A room for the ages (Courtesy Long Island Bar)

A Frittata For Emma: Cooking This Will Make You Happy (Plus, Wine, Music, and Foie Gras)

August 20, 2017 / / 0 Comments

Buddy and Emma (far right) Sullivan, with Maruja and Pepita in the 1950s.

Brooklyn Heights, 2004. That’s the year I met Emma Sullivan and her cousins Maruja and Pepita. Emma owned The Long Island Restaurant, one door down from our apartment on Atlantic Avenue. I was in the restaurant often. It was (and still is) a beautiful time-capsule of a place, booths and wooden bar, photographs of Buddy — Emma’s late husband — and other family members behind the bar, a manual cash register that made me smile when Emma opened it. The sound was comforting. It was a warm and gentle room.

Emma closed up shop in 2007; she and Buddy had taken it over in 1956. Hers was a 51-year run of countless conversations and days and nights making guests feel at home. I miss walking into her restaurant, and probably always will. (The space was reopened in 2013, after Emma leased it to a pair of worthy guys. Next time you are in Brooklyn, pay them a visit.)

I wrote this week about Emma and her cousins and The Long Island Restaurant for PaperCity magazine, and included a frittata recipe based on that special woman and her cousins. You might like to make the dish one morning, or night. Think of Emma — or someone whose life is special to you — when you do.

Like good music and wine, plus some tasty crab cakes? If so, and you find yourself in Missouri City, Texas, check out B’s Wine Bar. Angela and I were there last night, and the band was hot, the crowd stylish and fun, and the staff welcoming and obviously excited about their work.

Drink some wine here in Missouri City, Texas. (Courtesy D-Mars.com)

Angela and I were seated in the wine room, just the two of us at a quaint table, the kind one finds in parks in Paris. We talked and drank and laughed and found a place new to us to which we’ll return. (Thanks for the recommendation, Kennady.)

How’s this for a transition: I love foie gras. I’ve eaten it in Spain, in Dubai, in Paris, in New York, in Italy, in New Delhi, and, most recently, last week in Houston. It’s from Hudson Valley Foie Gras, and it’s prepared in a wonderful way. Take a look at this:

That’s Foie Gras alla Fiamma, newly added to the tasting menu at Tony’s, and it’s good. Order it and savor the preparation process. There’s Moscato and a vanilla bean and a grape, and it’s served with toasted farro. Sensual, delicious, decadent.

Restaurant Weeks NYC and Houston, and Chicken Paprikash: Summer Is Winding Down

August 7, 2017 / / 0 Comments

New York City, 1995. I had arrived a few months earlier to begin a new job with a newspaper, and was visiting restaurants and bars that had been on my list for a long while. Sign of the Dove. La Grenouille. Elaine’s. Le Veau d’Or. McSorley’s. So many more, some long gone, others still thriving, pleasing guests night after night, attracting people from around the world to the streets and avenues of New York. That summer, I participated in NYC Restaurant Week; we made a few reservations at select places, and had (mostly) good experiences. It was a pleasure to sit and watch out-of-towners eat — I had already become a New Yorker, at least in my heart and mentality — and it felt good. The tables were ours. The latest version of NYC Restaurant Week runs through August 18, giving you 12 more days to pay $29 for lunch or $42 for dinner at places including Porsena, Hearth, Lupa, and ABC Kitchen. If you can, go.

La Grenouille, around since 1962.

Houston Restaurant Weeks (HRW) is also upon us, and it features 277 establishments giving a portion of their proceeds from special menus ($45 dinner, $20 lunch, with some exceptions) to the Houston Food Bank to help feed the hungry. I’ve tasted from some of the offerings, and will surely get to more, and encourage everyone to make some reservations. Go to a place you might not otherwise. Hunger is no laughing matter, and Houston is full of people who don’t know where their next meal will come from. Do some good, have some fun, and tip well.

Want some suggestions for HRW? Amalfi Ristorante Italiano & Bar and Sud Italia are home to some good pasta and proteins, and a visit to Ginger & Fork will introduce you to mushrooms and rice noodles that are not to be missed.

When you’re out and about during HRW, you’ll be wanting some wine to pair with your meals. Why not make it a full evening and have a glass of Rosé as an apéritif? Stoller Family Estate has produced one that I like (click here to read about it), but the Pink Universe is large, so you’ll have no difficulties choosing a good bottle. In addition, many of the restaurants participating in HRW have selected wines they think pair well with their menus, an easy opportunity for you to taste something new.

Tomatoes and Wagyu done well

Speaking of new, a dish was added to the menu at Tony’s last week, and it’s something you’ll want. The Carpaccio di Pomodoro is tomato and Wagyu heaven, and I featured it in a piece for PaperCity on my (current) Dream Team of dishes in Houston. You can read about it here. (There’s also some great tacos and pasta on my team.)

 

For those of you wanting a hearty meal at home, I offer Chicken Paprikash. I cooked it on Sunday, and based it on the recipe featured by Sam Sifton in The Times. Use a combination of sweet and hot smoked paprika, and make sure to go with bone-in chicken. Cooking it is simple — you’ll have to brown the chicken in a Dutch oven for a few minutes — and when the smokiness of the paprika meets the sour cream, your evening will be set. Pair your Paprikash with a bottle of this Pinot Noir and a salad of mixed greens, and the picture is complete.

Dish of the Day: French White Asparagus, Norcia Truffle, Cacio e Pepe, Soft Egg

April 30, 2016 / / 0 Comments

 

IMG_8532

Spargelzeit! It’s here. And though I am not in Germany as I write this, and it was French asparagus, the truffles were Italian, from Norcia, and it was, and is, an excellent dish. I had it at lunch yesterday, at Tony’s, and the asparagus was slightly crunchy, full of flavor, perched atop a fried egg whose yolk oozed when I cut into it. The cheese was salty and tangy and I wanted the asparagus to last forever. But nothing does, so order this soon.

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