The Original Farmers Market is a Los Angeles treasure. It was founded at the corner of 3rd and Fairfax in 1934 as a “village” in which local farmers could sell their wares. The site had previously been a 256-acre ranch, and when oil was discovered on it, in 1900, the owner, A.F. Gilmore, replaced his dairy cattle with oil derricks. The city of Los Angeles had yet to encroach on the property as the crude was brought forth from the ground.
When the development of Los Angeles caught up to the property no new derricks were permitted, and, eventually, the Gilmore expanse grew quiet. It stayed that way into the 1930s, until two entrepreneurs, Fred Beck and Roger Dahljelm, convinced Gilmore’s son, Earl Bell Gilmore, that a farmers market would be a great venture for the property. The rest is history.
The Gilmores still own the market, and today it’s home to more than 100 vendors, including grocers, restaurants (the famed Du-Par’s among them) and shops and businesses, from jewelry, clothing, and art stores to barbers, shoemakers, and houseware merchants.
I don’t get to the Original Farmers Market often enough, but I recently attended a wine dinner at a restaurant there, Ettore Vino & Cucina, and not only were the food and wines pleasing, but the visit has also served as a personal directive for me to take myself to 3rd and Fairfax on a regular basis.
Ettore Vino & Cucina is the restaurant and tasting room of Ettore Winery, which is located in Hopland, California. Ettore Biraghi and Sofia Rivier are the winemakers, and the estate, in Mendocino’s Sanel Valley, comprises 64 acres, of which 35 are planted with vines. The property is situated 500 to 600 feet above sea level, and gravelly, loamy soils dominate.
The Ettore estate vineyard is the source of five grape varieties. (Ettore Winery)
The Ettore vineyard lies at the foot of Duncan Peak in the Sanel Valley. (Ettore Winery)
The occasion for my visit to Ettore Vino & Cucina was a winemaker dinner, presented by Biraghi and Rivier, along with Fabrizio de Falco, the restaurant’s managing director. Nine wines paired with a five-course menu was the plan, and I could not have been happier with the pairings if I had selected them myself.
The team behind Ettore Vino & Cucina, Sofia Rivier, Fabrizio de Falco, and Ettore Biraghi, speak to guests at a wine dinner at the restaurant. (Please the Palate)
A menu whose stars were the Bolognese and petit verdot. (Brockhaus Photography)
First, the two wines that pleased me the most: the 2023 Ettore Pure Chardonnay ($18) and the 2021 Ettore Petit Verdot ($38). The former, an unoaked, 100 percent stainless steel wine that does undergo full malolactic conversion, was delightful with the prosciutto di Parma and gnocco fritto, while the latter, partnered with a hanger steak (diaframma in Italian), was the pairing of the evening.
Gnocco fritto and prosciutto di Parma began the wine dinner. (Please the Palate)
Hanger steak paired well with a 2021 Petit Verdot from Ettore Winery. (Please the Palate)
What I like about this chardonnay is its vibrancy: one sip brightens the palate, and it is an excellent food wine. Lemon and jasmine on the nose, nice herbal notes as well. Medium acidity and body and an austere finish result in a wine that drinks above its price point. The alcohol level is 13.5 percent, and 1,296 cases were produced.
The petit verdot was for me the best wine of the evening; Biraghi and Rivier used fruit from vines planted 29 and 26 years ago to produce this wine, which is dark purple in color and full of body. Robust tannins, distinct violet and dark berry aromas, touches of spice (black pepper) and a fine herbaceousness combine to create a beautiful wine. A total of 168 cases were produced.
A sformato di carote was served over a gorgonzola sauce. (Please the Palate)
Tagliatelle alla Bolognese was a great companion for the Ettore petit verdot. (Please the Palate)
Ettore farms organically, and uses products certified by California Certified Organic Farmers, a nonprofit group that promotes organic agricultural practices through education, advocacy, and certification. Biraghi, who was born in Varese, Italy, and lives in Switzerland, and Rivier, who was raised in Argentina and trained in Switzerland and now resides in the Mendocino Valley, both put a premium on making low-intervention wines, and the phrase “made with organic grapes” is displayed prominently on the brand’s bottles. A major component of the duo’s winemaking is the Purovino method, which is designed to reduce or eliminate the addition of sulfites. Grapes are treated with ozone, which sanitizes them and helps manage oxidation. All fruit at Ettore is harvested by hand.
Biraghi first visited Mendocino in 2015, and had a hunch that its terroir would suit his goal of making low-intervention wines; his project was established in 2019, though the winery itself is more than 100 years old. The brand includes olive oil as well, made from trees on the Ettore property.
The other wines I tasted at the dinner included Ettore’s 2022 and 2019 Reserve Chardonnay ($22), 2022 and 2019 Rosso ($28), 2022 and 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Signature ($34), and the winery’s 2019 Merlot ($35). The Rosso bottles — a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and petit verdot — were paired on the menu with the tagliatelle alla Bolognese, to wonderful effect. Rich meat sauce, rich, full-bodied wines that cut through the bold dish, toothsome homemade pasta … nothing more needed.
If you are in Los Angeles I recommend adding a visit to the farmers market and booking a table for dinner at Ettore Vino & Cucina. You can purchase Ettore wines here, or ask for them at your favorite merchant.
Memories of wines I’ve tasted persist, in some instances for a long while. I left Brooklyn — bound for a newspaper job in Abu Dhabi — back in 2008, and a few evenings before my departure I shared a table with a friend at a favorite restaurant near my apartment. I brought along a 1991 Château Pavie, and remember still my first sip of that bottle. Elegant and ethereal, well suited to the weather, cuisine, and occasion. On another evening I was in Paris, at a wine bar in the Marais hanging out with colleagues after work celebrating a milestone publication. The bottle this time was something from the Languedoc, an inexpensive little red wine that likely cost all of 10 euros (a 1999 Château Pavie can be had for $279.99 on FineLiquors.com). These two wines had nothing in common, save their country of origin, and both are indelibly etched in my memory.
I would love an endless supply of this.
That’s what wine, at its best, can do. It allows us to enjoy the moment, the foods we pair with the bottle, the design and sounds of the dining room, the smile of a friend, the profound immediacy. Then, months, years, or decades later, the memory of the wine brings pleasure once again. You have similar memories, I imagine, of bottles and tables and dishes and the people with whom you shared wines and conversation. Sounds and scents and images and tastes and … so much more that might not be knowable to you until one day you are sitting alone at a table in a restaurant and into your mind slides memories of that long-ago dinner and the wines served at it.
I try to keep this in mind when opening a bottle, whether I’m sampling for reviews or sharing, say, a Pfalz riesling with friends at a meal. I know the wine means something in the moment, and the idea that certain wines will sustain me in manner other than in-the-mouth gustatorily gives me pleasure.
Now, on to a new year of tastes, flavors, dinners and dishes, and, of course, memories.
Chris Kajani has been making wine at Bouchaine Vineyards since 2015.
I tasted three different 2023-vintage chardonnays from Bouchaine recently, and winemaker Chris Kajani is, based on my impression of these wines, continuing her astute, intuitive stewardship of the Carneros AVA estate. The lineup included Unoaked ($40), Estate ($40), and Reserve ($70) chardonnays, and I sampled them at one sitting, each bottle chilled to 52 degrees Fahrenheit.
The 2023 growing season was, according to Bouchaine’s team, “a lesson in patience.” A cooler summer led to slower ripening and later harvest — the end of September instead of the more typical late August. The chardonnay fruit had additional time to develop, and that time and quality is well represented in these wines.
A ‘naked’ chardonnay from the Carneros AVA.
The Bouchaine Unoaked chardonnay is suited to those who like to drink wine made from this noble grape devoid of oak influence, malolactic conversion (some winemakers, however, do allow no-oak chardonnay to undergo malo conversion) or bâtonnage. I like wines from Chablis, and I really liked this chardonnay from Napa’s Carneros district. Sweet-tart apple aromas, a touch of lemon blossom and other citrus flavors, fresh, crisp, vibrant, and excellent with grilled shrimp basted with garlic butter — my pairing for dinner on the evening I sampled these Bouchaine wines. Drink now, or hold for a year or two if curious about how it will age. Click here to purchase.
The Estate Chardonnay made by Kajani does see oak, and here’s some specificity from the Bouchaine team: It was bottled on Aug. 5, 2024, and aged for 10 months — 50 percent malolactic conversion, 90 percent barrel fermented, 10 percent tank fermented, 18 percent new oak. Kajani produces more than a dozen chardonnays from the estate’s blocks and blends what she deems the best of them for the final product. I liked this wine’s beguiling combination of richness and vibrance. Oak is not overwhelming, and the mélange of citrus and apple made me very happy. There’s no reason to not serve this with a roast pork loin and share with a few good friends. Click here to purchase.
This chardonnay pairs well with scallops.
The final bottle I tasted from this trio was the Reserve Chardonnay. The Bouchaine team said its intention here was “to create a concentrated, lush style of Chardonnay,” and Kajani succeeded in that. It was fermented 100 percent in barrel (38 percent new oak), and aged for nine months. Fruit was harvested from October 16-19, and bottling took place on Aug. 5, 2024; 200 cases were produced. Malolactic conversion is in full force here, along with sur lie aging. Carneros chardonnay is known for its cool-climate leanness and acidity, and that shines in this wine; the symbiotic play of oak and malo conversion and Bouchaine’s 1984-planted chardonnay performs with aplomb here. On the evening following my Bouchaine tasting session I wrapped some sea scallops in jamón Ibérico and seared them, and I drank the Bouchaine Reserve Chardonnay with those scallops. Delicious, sensual interplay. Purchase here.
This dry amber wine from Georgia is a great value.
Another 2023 I sampled recently is the Vazisubani Estate 3 Qvevri, an amber wine from Georgia. It’s a blend of rkatsiteli (15 percent), mtsvane (40 Percent), and kisi (45 percent), grapes identified with the country that many consider the birthplace of wine: research has documented more than 8,000 years of continuous winemaking in the region. Qvevri refers to the clay vessels traditionally used by Georgians; wines are fermented in the vessels underground. This orange wine carries a suggested retail price of $19.99, making it in my opinion a great value. Fruit, from vines planted between 1,500 and 1,800 feet above sea level, was harvested by hand and partially destemmed. Great acidity and robust tannins, dried apricots, green almond, licorice root, orange peel. This sees no oak, but something in the mouth is evocative of baking spices or vanilla. I’d love to drink this wine with a chicken dish featuring a walnut-based sauce.
Cleto Chiarli is a historic producer of Lambrusco.
Rounding out this tasting roster is the Cleto Chiarli “Centenario” Lambrusco di Modena DOC Amabile ($15). I am an avid booster of Lambrusco, and Cleto Chiarli is one of my favorite producers. The Centenario was introduced 100 years after the winery’s 1860 founding, and is 100 percent Lambrusco Grasparossa. Alcohol is 8 percent, so keep that in mind when you are looking for something refreshing to drink with pizza or a hamburger. The high acidity of this wine balances its sweetness in a manner that makes one keep going back for one more sip. The Charmant method is used here, and if you are wondering, “Amabile” refers to a wine that is sweet, but not so sweet that dessert is its only wise pairing. I would, however, have no issue if you chose to open this bottle and drink it with a slice of not-so-sweet chocolate cake. Purchase here.
Thanksgiving is the food holiday, at least in my family’s culinary tradition. My maternal grandmother made the best stuffing I’ve ever tasted, and while her Christmas fruitcakes and mincemeat pies are the stuff of legend, we always privileged Thanksgiving when it came to family holiday feasts.
I was not drinking wine as a child at those gatherings at my grandparents’ house in Savannah, but now I can’t imagine sitting down at the table on the last Thursday of November unless a few bottles are in the mix, wines selected for an occasion that likely features turkey, cranberries made your way (I like mine a bit spicy), potatoes or squash, perhaps sautéed green beans … you fill in the blank, of course, depending on your traditions. I have made shrimp as an appetizer for Thanksgiving, and last year at a Friendsgiving meal my contribution was a green chile pork stew.
Choosing the right wines to serve with your Thanksgiving feast is not rocket science. (Circe Denyer)
So, based on general American habits concerning Thanksgiving foods, and with some flexibility added for regional or familial variations, which wines should be on your menu come November?
Word to the wise: Champagne or other sparkling wines are a must, and I will accept no debate here. You cannot go wrong selecting several bottles from this diverse category. Offer guests a glass of cava as they cross your threshold, and consider serving gougères with that Spanish treasure (I like this recipe from David Lebovitz). For the table, and if you are serving turkey, feel free to indulge your Champagne obsession and knowledge. Pair the main course with a vintage brut, and with your desserts (pumpkin pie, pecan pie, a sweet casserole) serve a demi-sec. You can also opt for a Sauternes or a Trockenbeerenauslese with your sweet dishes.
Cava is a Spanish treasure, and it’s a great addition to the Thanksgiving table. (Marcelo Verfe)
Unless you are going extremely non-traditional and plan to serve steak, avoid Cabernet Sauvignon and anything blended with that grape (and anything with robust tannins). Turkey, mashed potatoes, and your squash casserole will hate sharing the stage with with those otherwise fine wines. I’m sure you drink a lot of big Napa reds on a regular basis, so missing one day won’t damage your psyche. If you must open a bottle of your favorite big red, it would be advisable to make it something with age; softer tannins are a better fit with the lower fat level of turkey.
Chardonnay is a common refrain around this time of year, and chablis definitely has a place on your menu. Fruity and crisp, plus graced with wonderful acidity, these wines will pair well with your turkey. If you want something with a bit more oak, feel free to go that way. Better yet, serve both types and provide your guests’ palates with a chance to compare and contrast.
Two Perennial Wines I’ll now proffer two names that have featured at my Thanksgiving table for years and years. I’m referring to Pinot Noir and Beaujolais. The tannins generally found in a good Pinot are of the softer variety, and a medium body will suit your turkey well. Cherry and mushroom notes, plus vibrant acidity, are magic at Thanksgiving. You can’t go wrong with something from Burgundy, and Oregon is another stellar source.
Beaujolais is an easy and popular choice for Thanksgiving, and gamay’s mid-level alcohol and superb fruit profile combine to great effect at the holiday table. I served a Morgon at my inaugural Thanksgiving gathering, a decision that began my love affair with this wine.
I’ll add here — and this applies to all of your wine selections for the holiday — that it’s a good idea to sample every wine you plan to serve before you make your final decisions. Consider your palate, and the palates of your guests, as well as your particular menu, especially if your food lineup wanders off from the traditional.
Riesling is a wine that gets along well with Thanksgiving.
And now to Riesling, my liebling grape. I love to make a savory gravy from the drippings of my turkey, and the high acidity of this grape makes my mouth water, literally when eating it and when I merely think of this combination. I am also a dark meat guy, and, again, that acidity cuts through the fat and richness of a turkey leg and stuffing made from the gizzards, heart, and liver. Buy a few dry and off-fry versions of Riesling and sample them, based on your menu.
The Guests are the Stars No matter what you serve with your Thanksgiving feast, don’t stress. I’ve given you some tried-and-true options, but do not feel hemmed in by my guide, except for that Cabernet Sauvignon advice. In addition, there’s no need to be a wine snob on this special Thursday. Sure, you might want to impress your guests with your taste and knowledge, but the wines aren’t the star here, and neither are you. Your grandmother might prefer a Chardonnay rich with oak, or uncle Joe’s love could be White Zinfandel. What better way to show them you care than putting “their” bottles at their places at the table for their sole consumption, a gesture that need not interfere with the rest of your wines?
A meal in Malibu: Joan Didion, her daughter, Quintana Roo, and husband, John Gregory Dunne. (Henry Clarke/Condé Nast/Shutterstock)
To close, I urge you to read this piece, which was published today in The New York Times; it is a beautiful story about Joan Didion’s love for Thanksgiving dinner. The author, who passed away in 2021, was a thoughtful cook, and she planned meticulous holiday dinners. From Patrick Farrell’s article: “It has always seemed like such an awful holiday,” a friend wrote her after one dinner, “but you made it something quite wonderful.”
Leave a comment and let me know what you’ll be pouring on Thanksgiving.
Sparkling wine — be it Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or anything else with bubbles and alcohol that is made well — is something I never take for granted. I counsel anyone who will listen to me to have a bottle or two chilling in the refrigerator at all times. I know I am at the right place when I visit a friend’s home or am a guest at a dinner party and the host offers a glass of sparkling to begin the evening.
The holiday season is drawing near, and even if you are not someone who partakes of sparkling wines on, say, a weekly basis, chances are high that you’ll add some bottles of Champagne or Cava to your shopping list between now and the end of the year. There’s nothing better to kick off a festive gathering, be it a dinner party or a garden soirée, and the elegance of a sparkling wine sets an intimate and relaxed tone, one that encourages conversation and creates good cheer.
I’ll be publishing a number of articles — including gift guides — leading up to the holiday season that will feature sparkling wines, from vintage grower Champagnes to Cava and cider, but to kick off the celebrations my tastings this week focus on three sparkling wines that represent outstanding value, each commendable in its own way. No Champagne here, but this is a delicious roster nonetheless.
Up first, the 2022 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Blanc de Blancs. It follows on from the inaugural 2021 vintage, the first ever sparkling wine made by the St. Helena-based brand, which was established by Margaret and Dan Duckhorn in 1976. This méthode champenoise wine is 100 percent Chardonnay from cool-climate vineyards in the Los Carneros region of Napa Valley Carneros, including El Veredicto, which is owned by Duckhorn.
Cheese or oysters? Pairing either with this sparkling wine is a good decision.
Renée Ary made 175 cases of this wine, which has a suggested retail price of $64. Alcohol is 12.5 percent, and aging took place for 10 months in 70 percent neutral French oak and 30 percent in second-vintage barrels. Tirage: 32 months.
Renée Ary, the fourth ever winemaker in Duckhorn’s history, was named to the position in 2014. (Bob McClenahan)
What I especially like about this wine is its fine and detailed effervescence and the lovely brioche notes it possesses. Apple and citrus sing on the palate, and a velvety/decadent mouthfeel complete the experience. It’s a great bottle to open at the beginning of a meal, and as for food, I paired it with a selection of cheeses — a Camembert, some Brie, and a Gorgonzola — and heard no complaints. I have another bottle on hand and its destiny is a date with a platter of Kumamoto oysters come December. Overall a commendable domestic sparkling wine.
We’ll remain on the West Coast of the United States for our next bottle, which is the 2019 Argyle Blanc de Blancs ($30 SRP, and I have found the ’19 for around $20 on several retail sites). Nate Klostermann, who celebrated his 20th harvest at Argyle in 2024, made some amazing wines at the estate, for which he became head winemaker in 2013. He stepped down earlier this year and was succeeded by Kate Payne Brown.
This inexpensive selection — the 2022 vintage is the current release — is 100 percent Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley, specifically Knudsen and Spirit Hill vineyards. If you are searching for a sparkling wine to serve at dinner parties or to become your everyday house selection, this is an ideal candidate. You might even consider doing what I did and get a few bottles of the ’19 and the ’22 and conduct a tasting panel to compare and contrast.
A wine that represents outstanding value in the domestic sparkling world.
Freshness is the word to know here, followed closely by precision. From the minute you pour this wine into your stem you sense Klostermann’s exacting approach. It’s a focused offering, one that drinks far above its cost. Scents of lively citrus and white flowers proceed to delicate brioche and concise mineral acidity on the palate — do serve this in a bowl stem, as opposed to a flute, because you want to accentuate the bouquet.
Nate Klostermann in an Argyle vineyard. (Argyle)
Kate Payne Brown became head winemaker at Argyle earlier this year. (Argyle)
Klostermann made 2,200 cases of the 2019, and Dijon clones 76, 95, and 96 were involved. It was aged en tirage for 30 months, and its fine bubbles are pleasing and sensual. I’ll return to oysters again when thinking of food pairings, but at a recent meal my dining companion and I enjoyed this wine with dishes of shrimp dumplings and fried chicken legs at Si! Mon, a restaurant near Venice Beach.
Si! Mon’s ‘Afro-Caribbean’ shrimp dumplings, one of my favorite dishes of 2025, includes a coconut bisque and charred scallion oil.
The fried chicken legs at Si! Mon.
Rounding out this sparkling wine sampler is a fun Rosso Cònero DOC Pétillant Naturel from Garofoli. I’ve never taken to using the (to my sensibilities) too-cute phrase “pét-nat,” but don’t let my formal approach ruin your fun. And this wine, the Pét Kon Vino Rosato Frizzante, is nothing if not fun. It retails for the grand sum of $18, it is 100 percent Montepulciano, it has a bouncing, frisky fizz, and it pairs wonderfully well with hamburgers and pizza.
Winemaker Carlo Garofoli ages this unfiltered wine for five months in the bottle, following whole-cluster fermentation and partial carbonic maceration in stainless steel tanks.
Your burger pairing has arrived.
I love the color of this wine, a tempting, slightly cloudy salmon pink that playfully attracts the eye. Aromas of red berries — cherry and raspberry in an appealing manner — and on the palate a touch of mint, coupled with cherry and those aforementioned berries, plus lemon, result in a fresh, and refreshing, pour. Yes, you can open a bottle of this crown-closure wine to serve with your favorite hamburger, but an evening spent at table with the Pét Kon, a few friends, and fresh pupusas, barbacoa tacos, and grilled garlicky shrimp would be perfect.
Garafoli dates its founding to 1871, and is still a family concern, overseeing four estate vineyards encompassing 128 acres. Wines produced include Verdicchio deli Castelli di Jesi, Rosso Piceno, and Verdicchio di Matelica. The family also purchases fruit from growers and produces approximately 2,000,000 bottles a year.
Three sparkling wines at three price points, each a fine value and worth adding to your holiday shopping list. Up next, along with the usual mix, a few vintage Champagnes, some Cava, and a list of items for those searching for wine- and food-centric gifts.
Aligoté can divide. There are those who disdain it openly, proud, it appears, to proclaim loudly to anyone who will listen that it is not worth the effort it takes to make, that the best Aligoté is inferior to the worst Chardonnay. On the other side of the line are the sane, knowing individuals, the ones who appreciate Aligoté and share their enthusiasm for it with their friends and acquaintances. If you encounter a character who belongs to the first group, nod in agreement and walk calmly away.
Aligoté is a proud grape; Burgundian winemakers love it (check out Les Aligoteurs) and yes, you’ll traditionally find it in your Kir cocktail. (Fascinating history and story behind that apéritif. It was originally known as a “blanc-cassis,” but now honors Félix Kir —1876 – 1968) — a former mayor of Dijon who served the drink to delegations visiting his city to showcase his region’s offerings. What was once made with crème de cassis and red wine had to be made with white wine after the Nazis had their way with Burgundy’s red wine stocks, and the tradition lives on. Put one part crème de cassis in a wine stem and follow with nine parts white wine. Here’s a recipe from the International Bartenders Association.)
Aligoté is in no way an inferior grape, contrary to what the misguided proclaim. It is a cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir, it is, after Chardonnay, the second most-planted variety in Burgundy, and it represents great value.
Drink this with oysters on the half shell.
One Aligoté that I enjoyed recently is Abbey Road Farm‘s 2023 vintage, available for $35 directly from the producer. I opened the sample bottle and thought, “I must pair this with briny, small oysters,” which is what I did. Royal Miyagi, with lemon and mignonette sauce. Poached shrimp would also be excellent. The wine carries a refined note of salinity, along with unripe apricot and Granny Smith apple. Delicate floral aromatics add to the pleasure. Whole-cluster pressing was used, and this estate Aligoté was aged sur lie for eight months in neutral French oak (70 percent) and in one new Austrian oak puncheon. Drink now.
Abbey Farm Road is an 82-acre farm, winery, and bed and breakfast in Carlton, Oregon. (Abbey Road Farm)
2022 Markham Vineyards Merlot, Napa Valley, California
I have my mind on a Napa Merlot that also represents great value for the price, and I’d recommend finding it soon, because it’s sold out at the producer’s website (though the 2023 vintage will be along soon). I have found it at retailers in the $25-$30 range, however, and it’s worth every dollar. I paired the 2022 Markham Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot with a rack of lamb, and the duo was the centerpiece of a fine meal.
Kimberlee Nicholls is a veteran winemaker and leads the Markham winemaking team. (Markham Vineyards)
This wine, from an all-female winemaking team, is dark red in the glass and offers aromas of black stone fruit, sensuous and warm. You get the familiar cherry and plum flavors on the palate, and freshness and vibrancy that spark conversation. The 2022 Merlot spent 18 months in oak barrels — 30 percent new — and was fermented in stainless steel. It is 95 percent Merlot, 3 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2 percent Malbec.
Markham’s estate vineyards — Yountville Ranch, Little Cannon, and Rockerbox —provide about a third of the fruit here, and head winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls and her team have produced a food-friendly wine that I’d gladly give to all of my cooking friends.
2024 Turnbull “Josephine” Sauvignon Blanc, Oakville AVA, California
Rounding out this edition of Tasting Notes is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Oakville AVA that I particularly liked. It’s available for $50 from the producer, Turnbull Wine Cellars, and holds a place on my list of top 10 Sauvignon Blancs tasted in the past year.
Turnbull Wine Cellars’ ‘Josephine’ Sauvignon Blanc: Graceful, complex, and delicious.
Peter Heitz is the winemaker at Turnbull, and he’s been quoted thusly in reference to this Sauvignon Blanc: “This wine gives me goosebumps — in the best way.” I did not get goosebumps when I tasted this wine, but I am in no position to quibble with Mr. Heitz, nor doubt his reaction, because I did love this bottle. I paired it with a pork loin (garlic, fennel, and parsley). Fermentation and élevage are carried out in terracotta amphorae, concrete tank, and French oak, and the result is an exhilarating journey of citrus joined with grace, complexity, and satisfying texture that pairs well with foods. I couldn’t ask for more in a Sauvignon Blanc.
Peter Heitz is a fourth-generation winemaker.
Fruit in this wine is primarily estate, from Turnbull’s Home Ranch and Fortuna vineyards, complemented by grapes from a North Coast site that sits at 1,600 feet above sea level. If you have friends who think Sauvignon Blanc is not worthy of pairing with serious food, who consider it a “pool sipper,” share some of this wine with them during a meal of the pork loin I mentioned and watch their reactions.
Burgundy is often on my mind. The diverse landscapes and geography, the wines, the cuisines … it is a fabled region with a grand history (the Franks and the Dukes of Burgundy are alone worthy of lifelong study) and captivating present. All that, plus escargots, those heavenly escargots.
A Bugundian staple. (Photo by James Brock)
I spent some time in that magical region – since Jan. 1, 2016, known officially as Bourgogne-Franche-Comté – of France last year, and too many days there would have been too few. I was therefore excited when I received Kosta Browne’s Burgundy Series 2022 vintage lineup, because the wines took me back to the sights, sounds, and smells of Meursault, where my traveling companions and I set up headquarters for a few days in a stone house overlooking a vineyard in the small village (2022 population: 1,376).
A Meursault room with a view. (Photo by James Brock)
Headed to the patisserie in Meursault. (Photo by James Brock)
Meursault is known for its excellent white wines, and when planning a trip to Burgundy don’t overlook the idea of making the village your temporary home. The proximity of the Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet appellations, to name but two nearby, and the city of Beaune are nothing but bonuses. In addition, Meursault has an excellent patisserie on its town square that makes a fine pain au chocolat, as well as a French-Asian restaurant, La Goutte d’Or, where Yuki and Thomas Broyer’s menu of honest, authentic food includes fricassee of frog legs, duck breast, pike quenelles, sushi, and terrines of pigeon, foie gras, and lobster. La Goutte d’Or’s wine list, full of great values, adds to the story.
To the Burgundy Series wines. Kosta Browne winemaker Julien Howsepian — his family’s roots lie in Burgundy and he speaks French — had long wanted to make wine from grapes grown in the region, and beginning in 2012 began having discussions about the vision.
“Back then, it was just the seed of an idea — a dream waiting to be realized,” he said. “Creating the Burgundy Series has been a remarkable journey, and one of the most inspiring experiences of my career. In many ways, our early years in Burgundy felt like a return to our roots in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast, when we were the new kid on the block finding our footing, building relationships with growers and earning their trust and respect.”
Chablis Premier Cru ($115 SRP/$70 member price) is an ideal place to begin my study of Kosta Browne’s Burgundy Series. Kimmeridgian soils is the buzzphrase, and Chardonnay the buzzword, so let’s take a brief look at both.
Julien Howsepian, Kosta Browne’s head winemaker. (Courtesy Kosta Browne)
If you don’t already know, Chablis is — must be by regulation — 100 percent Chardonnay. Then there’s the hierarchy: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru. The latter three originate from vineyards planted on the aforementioned Kimmeridgian soils, while Petit Chablis — the name was first used in 1908 to mark wines not made from Chardonnay grapes and/or not grown in Kimmeridgian soils — is primarily grown on younger, Portlandian soils.
This is putting it simply, but the mineral-rich Kimmeridgian clay and limestone (full of fossilized oyster shells) give the first three appellations astounding minerality and aging potential, while the Portlandian earth produces wines marked by immediate approachability and freshness (plus great value). As a loose rule of thumb — I write “loose” because changes made by winemakers in Chablis have resulted in wines that are offer an abundance of pleasure whether one drinks them young or old, as opposed to times past, when many of the wines were harsh when young or lacked a finesse and depth that was sorely missed — drink Petit Chablis young, perhaps two years after release, Chablis five years after release, and Chablis Premier Cru and Grand Cru five to 10 years (or more) after release. Time will reward you, but if you are impatient do not let me stop you from pulling a cork whenever you desire. To close this topic, it’s a pleasing thing to try a Premier Cru five years after release and the same wine/same vintage five years later. Notice and appreciate the evolution and development of the living liquid.
The first thing that struck me upon tasting the 2022 Kosta Browne Chablis was its singular precision. Lovers of Chablis will be familiar with the flinty minerality these wines possess, and this one is no exception. Retrieve a stone from a river whose waters are clean and flowing and hold it under your nose — that aroma is beautifully represented here, along with white stone fruit and a delicate lemon note. The concise minerality continues in the mouth and marries well with the wine’s distinct acidity. You’ll love opening this bottle and drinking it with a plate of seared sea scallops (prepared simply with garlic and a touch of lemon).
A Chablis of elegance and precision. (Courtesy Kosta Browne)
This wine has an alcohol level of 13.5 percent, and élevage involved the use of 100 percent stainless steel for 13 months. As noted, I would not scold you if you opted to open this Chablis now, but uncorking it in 2028 would not be a bad plan, either.
And we now turn to Pinot Noir, that other grand grape of Burgundy, for the remaining four selections in Kosta Browne’s Burgundy Series vintage 2022 (2020 was the first vintage in this series). These names — Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, and Nuits-Saint-Georges — will likely be familiar to many, and Howsepian and his team have produced fine examples that fit well under these appellations.
I’ll dispose of some rudimentary notes here about the four Pinot Noirs. All come in at 13.5 percent alcohol, and each carries a suggested retail price of $150, or $90 for Kosta Browne club members. As for oak programs, which Howsepian controls, here’s the breakdown: Beaune (37 percent new oak, 63 percent neutral oak for 13 months); Pommard (29 percent new oak, 71 percent neutral oak for 13 months); Volnay (19 percent new, 81 neutral for 13 months); Nuits-Saint-Georges (29 percent new, 71 percent neutral for 13 months).
Howsepian works with a winery in Côte de Beaune (under a confidentiality agreement) to produce this series; the wines are vinified and aged in barrel in Burgundy, then transported under refrigeration for bottling in Sebastopol, California, where Kosta Browne, which is owned by Duckhorn Wine Co., is located.
“Over time, as our connections in Burgundy have strengthened, our ability to work with the best vineyards has grown, including access to Premier Cru properties in Beaune and Chablis,” Howsepian says. “The exceptional quality of those vineyards is embodied in our 2022 Burgundy Series wines. So is the extraordinary quality of the 2022 Burgundy vintage, which has already earned glowing praise for its energy, freshness, and generosity. It is a fascinating union that I find thrilling.”
Here is a look at the four 2022 Pinot Noirs in Kosta Browne’s Burgundy lineup, beginning with the Beaune Premier Cru, and though I want you to keep reading, if you are pressed for time here is my appraisal in brief: Club members should definitely purchase these bottles, and, depending on their wine-buying budget, non-club members would do no wrong adding these selections to their cellars. My tastings were, across the board, much, much more than satisfactory.
The Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune is a cultural treasure. (Photo by Colby Walton)
The Beaune Premier Cru bottling speaks of cherries, dark cherries, the predominant note aroma-wise and on the palate. If you like black and dark blue fruits, this one will interest you. Wonderful tension and vitality are evident in this medium-body wine, along with confident acidity and tannins. Secondary aromas of forest floor and mushroom, which will become more pronounced as the wine ages in the bottle, are part of the dynamic here, and the hint of white pepper is delightful. I’d pair this bottle with a mushroom and chicken fricassee, making sure to include some morels. Interesting fact about Beaune Premier Crus: There are 42 individual climats (vineyard sites) classified as premier cru in the appellation, and only about 10 percent of total production meets the premier cru qualification standards.
Drink this wine with duck. (Courtesy Kosta Browne)
To the Kosta Browne Pommard, and first things first: You will be pleased if you serve this bottle with duck breast or duck confit. The wine’s rusticity, restrained might, and dark cherry notes will marry perfectly with the waterfowl, but won’t overpower the dish. You also get a pleasing floral undertone, as well as red berry notes. The tannins and power characteristic of wines from the appellation are evident, but they do not punch wildly. Pommard, which lies between Beaune and Volnay, had a population of 444 as of 2022. As noted above, time spent in this area is time not wasted; cycling around the villages is a pleasant way to spend a day, and the scenery is moving and enlivening.
Cycling in Pommard. (Photo by Colby Walton)
Here, in transition, I offer some words from Jon Bonné, which appear in his indispensable book The New French Wine: “If Pommard tends to be about muscle, Volnay stands on finesse. Frequently the comparison is to Chambolle, and the similarities are there, certainly in the nuanced structure of the wines and in the relatively light topsoil with harder Bathonian limestone below.” Volnay boasts, according to Vins de Bourgogne, 29 premiers crus, a not insubstantial quantity; these include Santenots, Clos de la Chapelle, and Clos de la Rougeotte.
Volnay, as done by Kosta Browne. (Courtesy Kosta Browne)
Yes, Pommard wines are described as masculine, and those from Volnay (the appellation dates to 1937) are often termed “feminine.” They can certainly, in most cases, be appreciated as “delicate,’ and while I’ll leave it up to readers to debate the utility of using “masculine” and “feminine” to describe wines, the Kosta Browne Volnay is complex and carries an arsenal of poised, confident aromas, including the ever-present cherry, as well as gooseberry and raspberry. In the glass the wine is a lovely shade of garnet, and tannins are restrained. When you take this bottle to the table, try pairing it with coq au vin, as made by Julia Child.
A road that leads to some fine vineyards. (Courtesy Wikimedia Commons)
Nuits-Saint-Georges is the final selection in this series, and a key thing to know about the appellation is that it is comprised of two parts, which are divided by the town and the valley of the Meuzin, a smallish river (38 kilometers long) that is a tributary of the Saône. (In an interesting aside, the Meuzin made international news in 1978 when a disgruntled winery worker dumped $600,000 worth of wine into the river, a wasteful act that killed thousands of fish.) Soil composition is also divided in the appellation, but limestone, marl, and clay dominate. The elevated portions of the northern section consist of alluvia marked by small stones, while the low-lying areas of the northern region are mostly silt deposited by the Meuzin. The southern part of the appellation features alluvia from the Vallerots Valley and limestone deposits atop the slopes.
This terroir diversity produces wines with diverse characteristics: in the south, near Premeaux-Prissey, you’ll find lighter wines with subdued tannins, while in the north, near Vosne-Romanée, the wines are more complex and show remarkable finesse. Drink these wines young to enjoy their vivacity, and age with care to appreciate the AOC’s overall reputation for producing robust wines that mature with grace into something complex and elegant in the bottle.
To the 2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges from Kosta Browne, and we begin with my food pairing, as presented by Yotam Ottolenghi: slow-roasted lamb with grapes. The recipe uses an abundance of shallots and garlic, and its sauce will enhance the wine’s elegance. I tasted the 2022 immediately after pulling the bottle’s cork, and its freshness and earthiness mingled in the nose and on the palate. Rose petals, subdued red licorice and violets were also playing in the bouquet. In the mouth you get a wine of medium body and balanced, dancing elegance.
Howsepian, as noted above, has roots in Burgundy; one of his grandmothers grew up in a village near Nuits-Saint-Georges, and his father had an uncle who worked in wineries in the region. What he and his team have produced in this series of wines is worthy of that legacy. While I understand the decision to keep some details — namely, vineyard sites — confidential, knowing exactly the provenance of the fruit that went into the bottles would allow a more comprehensive appraisal and comparison of the wines. However, 2022 has been universally deemed an excellent vintage, with high temperatures that slowed polyphenolic ripeness and a major storm in June that helped the vines get through a dry July, and these bottles represent the vintage well.
Australia’s been on my mind often as of late, for several reasons. One, I’m re-reading Patrick White‘s The Solid Mandala, which I first encountered during a seminar taught by my favorite university professor, H.E. Francis. Secondly, I’m researching Western Australia for a trip I plan to make. Finally, I recently completed a tasting series of some wines from Down Under that impressed me greatly.
A Xanadu vineyard. (Xanadu)
Xanadu made three of the Australian wines I tasted, all from the Margaret River region. They are part the brand’s Circa 77 range, created to commemorate the year –1977 – in which the first vines were planted at the estate. I sampled the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion blend, and the 2022 Chardonnay (all come with a suggested retail price of $18.99).
The Margaret River is a fascinating wine region; more than 36 grape varieties are grown on roughly 14,400 acres, and the first vines in the area were planted in 1967, according to the Margaret River Wine Association. It boasts more than 200 wineries, many of them small, family-owned operations. Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely planted grape there, followed by Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. If the wines produced in this Mediterranean-climate region are new to you, these three Xanadu selections are a great place to begin your exploration.
A land of wine. (Margaret River Wine)
First thing to know: these wines are fun. Fun to drink, fun to serve, fun to share. And that in no way implies that quality is lacking. The wines are made well, and possess a freshness and vitality that state “pour me immediately.”
That “drink me now” directive applies especially well to the Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon blend, which is 70 percent of the former and 30 percent of the latter. Bracingly dry, crisp, lively … those three adjectives come immediately to mind when drinking this wine. You’ll note the bright citrus (helmed by lime) on the nose, as well as a hint of tarragon. In the mouth there is honeysuckle and a barely discernible mélange of baker’s spices.
Xanadu’s Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend pairs well with poached or grilled shrimp.
You’ll want to chill this well and pair with shrimp poached in olive oil and garlic. I know this is a great combination because it’s what I served when I drank the rest of the bottle with a meal on the day following my sampling session. The wine was still vibrant. Fruit comes from the Wallcliffe subregion of Margaret River, mostly from Xanadu’s Boodjidup and Lagan vineyards.
No malo in this wine. Pair it with pasta al limone.
The Chardonnay continues the vibrancy. I’ll start with a food pairing: a lemon farfalle with garlic and olive oil. Sprinkle fresh Italian parsley and grated Parmigiano Reggiano on this dish and you have a fine meal. This Margaret River Chardonnay – 12.8 percent alcohol – is light on oak and did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Apple and pear notes dominate the bouquet, while white peach and citrus linger in the mouth. Drink now, or hold for a year or two.
The final Xanadu wine in my tasting session, the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, has a lot to offer for the price. It’s 86 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 5 percent Cabernet Franc, 4 percent Merlot, and 2 percent Petit Verdot; alcohol comes in at 14 percent. The wine’s red hue is deep and serious, and on first taste cassis and graphite come at you with grace, as do eucalyptus, black fruit, and deftly applied oak. This wine is ready for your table now – pair it with a rib eye and potato au gratin with Gruyère – or cellar until 2027.
Deft oak, confident tannins … a wine for your favorite cut of beef.
The Circa 77 line also includes a Shiraz and a Rosé that I have not sampled, but I look forward to doing so.
Xanadu was founded by Dr. John Lagan and his wife, Eithne, in 1969, and the name, as you might surmise, comes from Coleridge. Lagan, a lover of literature, was fond of his new landholdings, so wanted to give it a fitting name. The estate now includes a restaurant and tasting room, and produces a variety of wines; check out the Stevens Road single-vineyard range and the Xanadu Reserve lineup for higher-end selections. As always, ask for these wines at your favorite merchant, or purchase directly from the producer, though in Xanadu’s case the latter route is likely not convenient for residents of the U.S.
I’ve got more wines from Australia on my agenda, as well as a look at this year’s edition of World of Pinot Noir, so stay tuned.
My tasting agenda has swung into high gear since my return from France (more on that soon), and the bottles are calling to me (except for a certain Riesling that’s raising its voice in a persistent manner): “Let’s go,” they say. “It’s getting crowded in here.”
Two wines that impressed me recently were made by Eric Johnson at Talley Vineyards, a family-owned winery located in the San Luis Obispo region of California’s Central Coast. I’m referring to the 2022 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir and the 2022 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, both of which I found stellar (and the dishes I paired them with were definitely improved by my doing so). A trip to the SLO region is on my planning calendar and I look forward to visiting and touring Talley.
When one sleeps surrounded by Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines the essence of the fruit seems to slip into the subconscious. A final glance at the vineyard outside my room before retiring for the evening, moonlight allowing a view of the young light-green leaves, the cold air and ground working to strengthen the vines. Last night’s temperature fell to around 46. I closed the window and slept, warm under down.
Early morning mist fades away as the sun rises and warms the surroundings. The vines, the leaves, the tendrils – the tops of the trunks low to the ground, perhaps 1 foot or so in height where the green begins – appear fresh, confident even, their color uniform across the parcel. Buds are present, small, tight, promising. (Smudge pots and other weaponry against the dangers of frost abound – it’s late April in Burgundy, and though next week is forecast to bring warmer temperatures, farmers are worried.)
These vines are promise. And our tastings of various vintages this week bring to life the effort and fears and work and dreams that have been deposited into the surrounding vineyards. A 2020 Aligoté lively and fresh, a 2019 Pinot Noir flirtatious and tempting. A premier grand cru that made one’s eyes close with pleasure. That’s the promise.
Ilove to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.
In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well.
The tasting was scheduled for 10 in the morning, on a Saturday, so the drive to Los Olivos from Los Angeles began a little after 7. At that time of the day traffic is usually light — weekend bonus — and the journey was relaxed and pleasurable. I never tire of driving along the Pacific, seeing the sun rise from the waves and the rolling hills glide by.
I was headed north to meet with Greg Brewer, of Brewer-Clifton, diatom, and Ex Post Facto, at his label’s tasting room in Los Olivos. I was familiar with his Brewer-Clifton wines, and appreciated their purity, but had never sampled diatom or Ex Post Facto, so was looking forward to the encounter.
Brewer, who was named Winemaker of the Year in 2020 by Wine Enthusiast magazine (one of the categories in the publication’s Wine Star Awards), is a product of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. When one discusses wine with him, the soils and vineyards and geography of the appellation come to life, and tasting with the Los Angeles-born former French instructor (UC Santa Barbara) is a sensuous and intellectual tour of the region.
“The winemaker of the year award is much more about the Sta. Rita Hills than it is about me,” he told my tasting companion and me as we tasted the 2018 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay. “The people here, the land and the environment, those are the stars.”
The Sta. Rita Hills AVA is the source of some lively, vibrant Chardonnay.
Brewer founded Brewer-Clifton with Steve Clifton in 1996, and diatom, focused on “starkly raised” Chardonnay, was born in 2005. Ex Post Facto, dedicated to cold-climate Syrah, followed in 2016. In addition, beginning in 1999 and continuing through the 2015 harvest, Brewer co-founded and served as winemaker at Melville Winery.
Brewer, whose labels became part of Jackson Family Wines in 2017, began his career in wine at Santa Barbara Winery, in 1991. He worked in the tasting room, and soon discovered a passion for production, a passion that continues today.
Greg Brewer and James Brock post-tasting in the Brewer-Clifton tasting room, located in Los Olivos, California. (Photo by The Brockhaus)
Conversing with Brewer was a refreshing experience, one that took me back to my Eastern philosophy classes and seminars. Ego; the self; humility; chop wood, carry water; process; the razor’s edge: those words and phrases came to mind on that Saturday morning as we talked about the appellation and its attributes and Brewer’s approach to winemaking (and life). He’s someone I would gladly sit with over a three-hour meal.
A Chardonnay of intense purity.
In addition to the Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay, the tasting lineup included the 2017 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, the 2016 diatom Machado, the 2017 Machado Pinot Noir, the 2018 Ex Post Facto Syrah, and the 2009 Brewer-Clifton Mount Carmel Chardonnay. All show sense of place in a remarkable manner, and demonstrate Brewer’s method, which, though highly personal, has been honed to ensure integrity and longevity no matter what life brings.
“I could be hit by a bus, and our wines would live on,” Brewer told me, referring to the way he has trained others on his team to make these wines.
Here’s Brewer in Wine Talk:
James Brock: How has COVID-19 changed your work and life?
Greg Brewer: The pandemic has, as with many, caused me to become quite nostalgic and increasingly sentimental. I have embraced this opportunity to reignite direct correspondence with our community as a means of intimate connection during times of quarantine and lack of social interaction. While I hope that the outreach from me has been welcomed by them to remain engaged, I have also benefited greatly, as the exercise has been very nourishing and restorative for me.
While initially resistant to virtual events, I quickly dove into that platform, which proved to be very rewarding. My initial hesitancy was rooted in a fear of not connecting as well as in person, yet I quickly realized it was far from inferior and simply different. There can be tremendous intimacy and comfort when interacting in this manner, particularly when all participants are as focused and vulnerable as possible.
As I find ultimate identity through my work, there is really no differentiation for me on any level between personal and professional. For the mere attempt to segregate the two would lessen my core devotion to the craft and industry.
“Gentle hands and pure intent … “
JB: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?
GB: Everything is appropriate, worthwhile and timely. I gravitate towards wines raised by gentle hands and pure intent, and am particularly inspired when one has the confidence to explore an aesthetic which is singular and relevant. Brander Au Naturel Sauvignon Blanc and Captûre Tradition Sauvignon Blancare excellent examples of that ethos for different reasons. Larmandier-Bernier Champagne is another reference point that comes to mind. All three are singular while maintaining a very specific point of view and not alienating others. Unique and inclusive. Deliberate and still very aware of surroundings.
If a certain wine and dish are pleasurable, they will always make a good pairing. Composure and pleasure eclipse the stress that can frequently accompany a pursuit to replicate expected and almost cliché pairings. The alignment of dynamics can be great, as can be exploring contrast. It closely resembles any other personal relationship. As soon as one embraces the risk and fear of an atypical rapport, the world opens up to myriad possibilities that may have otherwise been overlooked. Gender, race, sexual orientation, careers, hobbies, favorite colors and zodiac signs. If one is confined to a cage, there is never a chance to engage with the other animals.
Brewer: My hope and goal throughout my entire career has been to help others feel more comfortable with wine.
JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why.
GB: While I ultimately love all wines, there is really nothing I envy. There is a time and place for everything, and I fear that seeking something out would lessen the relationship I would have with the object. Who am I to have something in my keeping when it might offer more pleasure to someone else? Many of the wines that I have possessed have been very valuable to me and their subsequent consumption has been the best way to honor them. Such would include last vintages from inspirational mentors who have since passed away or last vintages from colleagues whose families have asked me to finish their work upon their sudden passing.
JB: What is your favorite grape variety, and why?
GB: I don’t subscribe to the notion of favorites, but were I to work with only one grape, it would unequivocally be Chardonnay. I cherish its purity, nobility, and its capacity to convey place.
This wine reveals itself in a patient manner.
JB:How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day?
GB: From our collection of wines, I would suggest diatom Chardonnay. It is not only something that wouldn’t be expected, it is by far and away the longest-lived wine that we steward. As it is raised in a virtual vacuum, it is very slow to unveil what lies beneath, and as such would hopefully be compelling for someone at year 10, 20 or 30.
JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle (outside of your home and workplace)?
GB: My wife and I both work long hours every day, and a “go to place” outside of those two venues is somewhat foreign. My ideal scenario would be for us to stand in our home together with nice glassware and sexy deep house trance music — preferably with female vocals.
Greg Brewer is a philosophical creature of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. (Photo courtesy Brewer-Clifton)
JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?
GB: My hope and goal throughout my entire career has been to help others feel more comfortable with wine. There is a tremendous level of fear, apology and permission that accompanies many individuals’ relationship with wine. It makes me sad and I always turn myself inside out to try to assuage that insecurity in others.
The word “should” has been imbedded in millions of questions posed to me about wine, which is tragic, really. When should I drink this? What should I drink it out of? What temperature should I, etc.? The fear abridges the ultimate understanding and pleasure that wine can offer. It is an extremely primitive and elementary beverage that has essentially been around as long as water and fire. People can quickly recognize they know WAY more about it than they realize it as soon as they link the fundamentally simple elements of it to other areas of life with which they have more confidence. Music, fashion, art, design, gravity, a teeter totter … It’s all virtually the same once you allow it.
JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?
GB: There are two that stand out that both occurred quite early in my career, which I suppose is obviously inherent based on the question! Sorry!! ;). One was tasting a 1987 Williams-Selyem Rochioli Pinot Noir for the first time, and the other was 1987 Calera Jensen Pinot Noir. In addition to the monumental nature of both wines, the setting and company elevated the experience to a different level. Both were beautiful lessons that the environment in which something is experienced plays such a vital role to every aspect of the experience. No matter how coveted the object or experience, the enjoyment will prove meaningless if one feels uncomfortable, distracted, or under duress.
JB: What has been the strangest moment or incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career thus far?
GB: I don’t think anything has been that strange, ultimately. Fun coincidences, synergies, and surprises, but nothing that seems too far outside of this realm.
Baudelaire had a special relationship with wine.
JB: Your favorite wine reference in a work of literature?
GB: The poem, “Enivrez-vous” by Charles Baudelaire. I love the notion of arresting time through wine, poetry, or virtue. I love how those elements can suspend time, which is not only something we all possess in equal measure, but the one thing that is the most fleeting …
Enivrez-vous (Paris Spleen, 1864)
Il faut être toujours ivre. Tout est là: c’est l’unique question. Pour ne pas sentir l’horrible fardeau du Temps qui brise vos épaules et vous penche vers la terre, il faut vous enivrer sans trêve. Mais de quoi? De vin, de poésie ou de vertu, à votre guise. Mais enivrez-vous. Et si quelquefois, sur les marches d’un palais, sur l’herbe verte d’un fossé, dans la solitude morne de votre chambre, vous vous réveillez, l’ivresse déjà diminuée ou disparue, demandez au vent, à la vague, à l’étoile, à l’oiseau, à l’horloge, à tout ce qui fuit, à tout ce qui gémit, à tout ce qui roule, à tout ce qui chante, à tout ce qui parle, demandez quelle heure il est et le vent, la vague, l’étoile, l’oiseau, l’horloge, vous répondront: “Il est l’heure de s’enivrer! Pour n’être pas les esclaves martyrisés du Temps, enivrez-vous; enivrez-vous sans cesse! De vin, de poésie ou de vertu, à votre guise.”
Be always drunken. Nothing else matters: that is the only question. If you would not feel the horrible burden of Time weighing on your shoulders and crushing you to the earth, be drunken continually. Drunken with what? With wine, with poetry, or with virtue, as you will. But be drunken. And if sometimes, on the stairs of a palace, or on the green side of a ditch, or in the dreary solitude of your own room, you should awaken and the drunkenness be half or wholly slipped away from you, ask of the wind, or of the wave, or of the star, or of the bird, or of the clock, of whatever flies, or sighs, or rocks, or sings, or speaks, ask what hour it is; and the wind, wave, star, bird, clock, will answer you: “It is the hour to be drunken! Be drunken, if you would not be martyred slaves of Time; be drunken continually! With wine, with poetry, or with virtue, as you will.”
Arthur Symons (1865-1945) translation, as quoted by Eugene O’Neill in Long Day’s Journey into Night
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