Mise en Place

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David Ramey Talks Moueix, Mexicali, and Hemingway

May 4, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.

In Wine Talk, I introduce you to some of my friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well. 

The first time I drank a wine made by David Ramey was epiphanic. I recall that I took a few sips, then put down the glass, savoring the whole of the moment. “This stuff is quality,” I said to myself. It was probably early in 2003, in Brooklyn, during dinner at home. A friend had brought the bottle of Chardonnay with him, and we were cooking flounder. It was a perfect wine, a perfect fish, and a perfect evening.

I love these wines.

Since then, I have opened and enjoyed many bottles produced by Ramey Wine Cellars, and they’ve never disappointed. Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons, Syrahs … not one was lacking.

I have written about Ramey and his wines, and I’ve read a lot about him and his approach to winemaking. This past September I met him at his winery, in Healdsburg, California. Angela, my wife, and I walked the short distance to the facility from the house in which we were staying, and Ramey, who was out front with members of his team, invited us to share their harvest-lunch food and wine. Sitting there, my mind went briefly back to that evening in Brooklyn, and the Chardonnay. It was as if a journey 17 years in the making had reached its destination.

Claire and David Ramey

After lunch, we went upstairs to Ramey’s office and had a comprehensive tasting. Ramey talked about his relationships with growers and other winemakers, and he enthusiastically took us through the bottles. It was a productive afternoon.

David Ramey is a generous and inspiring winemaker.

Ramey founded Ramey Wine Cellars with his wife, Carla, in 1996, and before that worked with Matanzas Creek, Chalk Hill, Dominus Estate and Rudd Estate. He holds a graduate degree from U.C. Davis — his thesis, written in 1979, is a seminal one, and if you want to learn how aromas evolve in wine, read it.

And Ramey Wine Cellars is a family affair; Carla and the couple’s children, Claire and Alan, are integral to the enterprise, and more than a few Ramey employees have been with the winery for nearly two decades.

Ramey’s demeanor is relaxed but exact; while he guided us through the tasting that afternoon he answered my questions with directness and clarity. He is a man who clearly loves what he does for a living, and what he bottles is a delicious demonstration of that love.

We left Ramey that afternoon with a recommendation for dinner that evening, Baci in Healdsburg. The man has great taste.

Let’s see what Ramey has to say in Wine Talk:

James Brock: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?

David Ramey: Well, I assume you’re asking about our wines, so I’ll answer to that:  1)  2017 (or 2016) Fort Ross-Seaview Chardonnay, $42, widely available — or directly from us, www.rameywine.com.  2)  2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, $50, somewhat available, or from us.  3)  2015 Napa Valley Cabernet, $62, fairly available, or from us.  Foods, in sequence:  Chard — any seafood — salmon, crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, halibut, sea bass.  Pinot — almost anything!  Cab — you know the drill — beef, lamb, chicken. For all three, nothing spicy hot or sweet (except the Pinot, which goes great with Thai). 

JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why?

DR: A 1989 Petrus, because Carla and I were married in Montagne-Saint-Émilion while working chez Moueix, and she picked those grapes.

JB: What is your favorite grape, and why?

DR: I’m loving cool-climate Syrah these days … (plus the odd bottle of Brunello).

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day? 

DR: Our Pedregal Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet, any vintage.

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle (outside your home and workplace)?

DR: Baci in Healdsburg (closely followed by Campofina, Barndiva, and Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar).

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

DR: Just as when you (or at least I) buy a car —stretch just a little — spend a little bit more than you thought you should.  

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

DR: The long drive from Mexicali to Hermosillo in 1974, wondering what I was going to do next: The inspiration came to me, “Why not make wine?”

JB: What has been the strangest moment or incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?

DR: I was monitoring the top of a 12,000-gallon tank of fermenting Chenin Blanc at Simi Winery in the early ’80’s, and we wanted to mix it, so a cellar worker put a propeller mixer into the racking valve down below.  We turned it on and off slowly several times — no reaction.  So we left it on longer … disaster!  The overflow went for minutes; the aisle was 6-inches deep in wine.  We lost a thousand gallons and learned that you don’t do that to a tank of fermenting wine.

JB: What is your favorite wine reference in a work of literature?

DR: “Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.”

And:  “I drank a bottle of wine for company. It was Château Margaux. It was pleasant to be drinking slowly and to be tasting the wine and to be drinking alone.  A bottle of wine was good company.”

Both from Hemingway.

Want more wine? Read on:

A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Wines from Alto Adige belong on every table. (Courtesy Alois Lageder)

Two Bottles From a Fine Alto Adige Producer

April 25, 2020 / / 0 Comments

Wines from northern Italy are among my favorites, particularly those from Alto Adige. Kerner, Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sylvaner, Lagrein … those names make me happy. The region is home to some great producers, and the wines they make will always have a home in my collection.

This week was a great one, in part because I opened two bottles from Alto Adige, a 2019 Pinot Bianco ($15 SRP) and a 2019 Pinot Grigio ($16 SRP), both from Alois Lageder’s Terra Alpina line, and both Dolomiti IGT.

The wines produced by Lageder never fail to impress me; they are made well, and they represent great value. (Alois Lageder was founded in 1823, and is led today by the sixth generation of the family.) While we are not at the moment hosting dinner parties, a Lageder bottle or three will certainly be in the mix at our initial pre-Covid gathering.

A Pinot Bianco from Alois Lageder, 2019 vintage …
… and the 2019 Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio from Lageder.

Lageder works with growers in the Dolomiti to produce wines in its Terra Alpina line, and is encouraging all of them to transition to organic farming . The producer’s estate vineyards are all certified organic and biodynamic.

Back in 2018, in Houston, I spent some time with Alois Clemens Lageder, Alois Lageder’s son. We talked Fußball and Rudolf Steiner, and, of course, wine, three things we both care about. His pride in his family’s history and dedication to the land they own was evident.

I tasted the two Terra Alpina wines on an early evening, slightly chilled. (Here is where I remind you to drink your white wines warmer than you probably do now, and your red wines a bit cooler than you likely do now. Disregard this if you have already heeded my request.)

The winemakers behind both of these wines are Jo Pfisterer, Georg Meissner, and Paola Tenaglia.

Alois Clemens Lageder and his father, Alois Lageder. (Courtesy Alois Lageder)

The Pinot Bianco is produced from grapes grown in soil containing primarily limestone, with some volcanic (porphyry) content, and the vines are at 300-500 meters. The Pinot Grigio’s soil makeup is the same, and the vines grow at 200-300 meters in elevation. Both spend up to four months on the lees, and are aged in stainless tanks.

We began with the Pinot Grigio; in the glass, it possesses a straw-yellow tone, inviting. Citrus and faint cinnamon aromas are evident, and it sparkles on the tongue. Poached shrimp would be ideal with this wine.

The Pinot Bianco, just as lively as the Pinot Grigio, with which it shares its color profile, offers apple and peach aromas — those notes make one think the wine might perhaps be “sweeter” than it is. It does drink heavier than the Pinot Grigio, has a slightly heftier body. My grocery delivery was full of asparagus, so we paired the Pinot Grigio with some stalks roasted with olive oil and garlic.

Alois Clemens Lageder says that Herman Hesse is his favorite author; Hesse is one of the first writers I gravitated to upon moving to Germany, and I’ll close this with a quote from him; feel free to replace “tree” with “vine”:

A tree says: A kernel is hidden in me, a spark, a thought, I am life from eternal life. The attempt and the risk that the eternal mother took with me is unique, unique the form and veins of my skin, unique the smallest play of leaves in my branches and the smallest scar on my bark. I was made to form and reveal the eternal in my smallest special detail.

The Benzinger family's land tells a tale of family, hard work, and passion. (Courtesy Benzinger Family Winery)

During Lockdown, Virtual Tastings Become The Norm

April 22, 2020 / / 0 Comments

If you are like most people I know, Zoom (or another online-meeting platform) has more than likely become a fixture around your home. This past Sunday, we used it to host my virtual birthday party, and a few days before that I participated in a virtual tasting put on by Benzinger Family Winery.

Chris Benzinger, the winery’s vice president of trade relations, hosted the tasting, and the tales he told of his family’s love affair with the land on Sonoma Mountain in Glen Ellen that they purchased in 1980 made me want to leave my lockdown in Los Angeles and head north for a visit.

Chris Benzinger

The occasion for the tasting was the 20th anniversary of Benzinger’s certification as a biodynamic farm by the Demeter Association, something of which Chris, who joined the family business in 1993, is clearly proud.

We began with the 2017 Reserve Chardonnay ($30), and followed that with the 2016 de Coelo Quintus Pinot Noir ($69), the 2016 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), and the 2016 Sunny Slope “Signaterra” Cabernet Sauvignon ($59). Each of these wines is drinking well now; I especially enjoyed the Sonoma County Cab and the de Coelo Quintus, and I want to taste the 2016 Sunny Slope Cab five years from now. (If you join a Benzinger wine club, discounts are offered on these bottles.)

The Benzinger family left New York in 1973 and headed out to California to make wine.

These wine are, of course, available from the winery, or you can check with your favorite merchant.

Next up, tastings of a Pinot Bianco and a Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige. Until then, drink well, with those you love, and stay safe.

Drinking and Eating With Joel Aiken: My Final Two Pre-COVID-19 Restaurant Meals

April 20, 2020 / / 1 Comment

The moments in which everything changed etch themselves into my mind, never to leave. On September 11, 2001, I was living in New York City. On March 13, 2020, I was (and am still) living in Los Angeles. Things have changed, as never before, it seems.

We’ve been indoors, in our apartment in downtown L.A., since March 13. We’ve taken one stroll in the neighborhood — and need to do that more, with masks — and late last month I made a quick trip to CVS for a prescription. Otherwise, we are doing our part, happily. California’s political leaders have responded well to the pandemic, as have most of the state’s citizens.

On March 12, I had lunch with Joel Aiken, a winemaker from California (he’s featured in this Wine Talk). I met him and Rusty Eddy at NoMad , in downtown Los Angeles. The hotel occupies the former headquarters of The Bank of Italy; the building was constructed in the 1920’s, and it’s gorgeous. When you are next in L.A., and when this pandemic is under control, book a table at the restaurant and enjoy the splendor.

I liked speaking with Aiken; he’s a seasoned winemaker, and his conversational manner is relaxed and thoughtful. We discussed his academic education (see the Wine Talk), his beginnings in wine, his tenure at Beaulieu Vineyard, and his current main venture, Scattered Peaks (a project with Derek Benham).

We tasted through several wines at lunch, including the two Scattered Peaks Cabs — the 2017 Cabernet ($40 retail) and the 2017 Small Lot Reserve ($125 retail). Aiken also brought along a 2009 BV, the Maestro Collection Ranch No. 2.

Joel Aiken, a winemaker of distinction.

The several hours at the table passed quickly, beginning with a Riesling and ending with espresso. Aiken and Eddy were scheduled to conduct an online wine course in the early evening, I had some work to do, so we parted ways. Until, it turned out, dinner.

Once back home, I recalled a brief exchange during lunch about restaurants in the area — Aiken and Eddy wanted to get a reservation in the neighborhood (their hotel was near our apartment). Angela and I had been wanting to eat at Nightshade, and I knew that she would enjoy meeting both men, so we decided to meet there after their course.

Scallop at Nightshade
Shrimp toast at Nightshade
Beef rib at Nightshade

It turned out that the meal that evening, on March 12, was our final one before COVID-19 locked us away. We were already not shaking hands in greeting, and neither were hugs in the mix. I miss both of those things, and I miss sitting with others in a communal space, sharing wine and talk and being human.

Jeff Pisoni grew up among the vines, and his approach to winemaking is one I respect and admire. (Courtesy Folsom + Associates)

Wine Talk: Jeff Pisoni on John Steinbeck, His Father, and Pinot Noir

April 16, 2020 / / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.

In Wine Talk, I introduce you to some of my friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well. 

Pisoni is a name that needs no introduction — especially to lovers of wine. First, there’s Gary Pisoni, who, back in the 1980s, convinced his farming family to plant grapes on their land in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Those hallowed 40 acres of vineyards have been producing great fruit — Syrah, Chardonnay, and, of course, Pinot Noir — since then.

A family of wine: Jeff, Gary, and Mark Pisoni

And it is a family affair, which brings me to the subject of this Wine Talk, Jeff Pisoni, Gary’s son and Pisoni Estate’s vintner. (Jeff’s brother, Mark, is vineyard manager at the estate.)

Jeff, who has a bachelor of science degree in enology from Cal State, Fresno, worked at Bernardus and Peter Michael prior to joining the family concern. Since 2009, he has also been head winemaker at Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery, about which he says, “I’m not trying to make a style. Fort Ross Vineyard is the style.”

Fort Ross is the sole winery Pisoni works with apart from his family enterprise. The vineyard, the closest one to the Pacific Ocean, is in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA. “I tried the Fort Ross Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at a tasting and was struck by the luscious fruit, fine minerality and crisp acidity in each wine,” Pisoni says, referring to his introduction to the fruit there. “The cool climate and the strong character of the vineyard were clearly evident. My goal is to continue to express the personality of the vineyard and the wonderful style the winery has worked so hard to establish.” 

I tasted through a selection of Fort Ross wines this week, including the 2017 Stagecoach Road Pinot Noir and the 2018 Chardonnay, both clearly made with precision and care. Pisoni’s approach is on display here, and it’s one I appreciate and admire.

Let’s see what he has to say in Wine Talk:

Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?

Jeff Pisoni: 2013 Prager “Steinriegl” Riesling. Wachau, Austria. With the down time from shelter in place, I did some organizing in the cellar and opened up this bottle. It was tasting great — fresh, complex, and elegant. My wife and I drank this with grilled sole. I purchased this wine upon release for $30.

Next, 2018 Fort Ross Vineyard Chardonnay. This variety can take many forms. Our approach with Fort Ross is bright and vibrant, but still with nice texture from the high-elevation mountaintops. I found it particularly satisfying, as I think a lot of people turn to a reassuring familiarity while being in a shelter-in-place situation in the world. This brings the beauty of California with a refreshing finish. You can get this for $44 a bottle.

Finally, the 2015 Renaissance by Clape. I love this producer. Clape has a way of capturing so much intensity and purity. Weather recently has also been cold and rainy, which I think fits well for a rich syrah. This was paired with a grilled ribeye steak. What else is needed? This wine was purchased for around $75 per bottle.

JB:  If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why?

JP: Sure! I would buy a 6-liter bottle of 2017 Chateau Latour. It’s my younger son’s birthyear and I still need to find a bottle for him. Might as well go big, right?  As a backstory, my father gifted me a 6-liter birthyear bottle of Chateau Latour, 1979. (And yes, Bordeaux was a little cheaper back then!) I have not opened it, yet. 

JB: What is your favorite grape, and why? If you can’t single out one — I know, it’s difficult — choose one that speaks to you in a particular way.

JP: Right, it’s hard to choose a favorite, but I am extremely passionate about Pinot Noir. Yes, there is the beauty and enigmatic nature of it, the fine balance between amazing and mediocre, the multitude of elusive nuances. I am also really drawn to challenges, and nothing challenges one’s winemaking skills like Pinot Noir. 

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day?

JP: Our Fort Ross Vineyard “Top of Land” Pinot Noir cuvée. It’s a wonderful combination of Pinot Noir’s power and elegance. 

The wine blend is of specific blocks and mostly heritage clones. It really conveys the essence of what Fort Ross Vineyard is about. The structure comes from the rugged mountain soils of our high-elevation sites, while the elegance is from the coastal climate that is only possible from a vineyard like this, at one mile from the Pacific Ocean. Overall, it has a great depth of flavor and structure that will age well for 10-plus years in the cellar.

This wine also speaks to the history of the vineyard. First planted by Linda and Lester Schwartz in 1994, the vineyard in total is 50 acres, but made up of over 30 unique blocks. Each block has its own personality. This wine, being a block selection, shows unique aspects of the vineyard and also the idea that Linda and Lester wanted to explore this detail of the vineyard. 

Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery occupies a special place near the Pacific Ocean.

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle?

JP: There is a great restaurant here in Santa Rosa called Stark’s Steak & Seafood. It has a fantastic wine list and a great bar scene in the evening. It is a wonderful atmosphere for a relaxing glass of wine and/or dinner. When you are in Sonoma County, check it out. 

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

JP: I hope that if people have a chance, they will buy a wine for drinking early and a bottle (or more) for aging. It’s fun and educational to watch the evolution of wines. It also gives you more bottles and opportunities to taste, evaluate, and discuss. I enjoy collecting things in general, so I always default to saving wines for a long time. 

Fort Ross Vineyard wines need to be in your cellar and on your table.

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

JP: Blind tasting wine with my father when I was a teenager. My father was instrumental in me deciding to be a winemaker. He was a farmer turned grape grower turned winemaker — and a viticultural pioneer.

He had a vast wine collection he started in the 1970s, and he would often open wines and introduce them to my brother and me. We loved the learning and experience of the different wines and regions. Well, many times, he would open wines and not tell us what it was — he would ask us to guess the variety, region, and vintage. It was an awesome experience, and very influential for me. In the blind tastings, we obviously had plenty of wrong ideas, but I remember making a few great calls and it brought a very strong connection to wine and the concept of terroir.

JB: What has been the strangest moment or incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?

JP: One time an intern had filled a 15-gallon stainless steel keg with juice and closed it with a valve. This was during harvest, so it went unnoticed for a few days — long enough for the keg to ferment and build up a lot of pressure. When we tried opening the valve, it plugged with grape solids, so we could not release the pressure. We then had to very, very carefully remove the fitting that held the valve in place. This exposed a 2-inch hole in the top of the keg. In a fraction of a second, a 2-inch vertical stream of wine shot up from the keg and hit our 25-foot-high ceiling. Nearly all the wine was lost to the upward stream, and we all just looked around in awe for a few moments. 

JB: What is your favorite wine reference in a work of literature or film?

JP: I grew up in Monterey County, so John Steinbeck was an important author for us. And Cannery Row was a fun read:

“Two gallons is a great deal of wine, even for two paisanos.”

Want more Wine Talk? From Paris to Los Angeles and many other places, the goodness flows

A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Open the Cellar is your two-day opportunity to buy some hard-to-find wines and help out the industry.

Open The Cellar: Here’s Your Two-Day Way To Support Napa Wineries

April 14, 2020 / / 0 Comments

Tasting rooms are closed, no one is traveling, and you need more wine. Here is a perfect way for you to buy a few bottles (or cases) of Napa selections: Open The Cellar.

Napa Valley Vinters has organized the two-day event (April 14 and 15), and if your cellar needs to be restocked, take a look at the selections on offer. Many of the bottles are normally available to clubs members only, while others are typically sold only at the wineries. (Library releases are also available.)

You’ll find wines from more than 150 producers, including Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Ladera, Mayacamas Vineyards, PEJU, and ZD Wines. It’s an impressive lineup (I’d like one bottle of each selection).

The COVID-19 pandemic has hit the wine industry hard, and this sale is a great way to help out. Plus, it’s easy: “You support the employees and small family businesses in wine country, get an exclusive wine and you don’t have to leave your couch,” Napa Valley Vintners says.

Let me know what you decide to add to your inventory.

Radishes braised in butter are comforting.

Notes From a Lockdown Kitchen

April 2, 2020 / / 0 Comments

Wine is without question the best liquid to drink while dining. Water comes in second in this equation, of course. But wine always. Hamburgers or pizza? Try a Chianti. Rouget or scallops? Open a white Rhône blend. Or if your palate calls for something entirely different, indulge it. Drink what you like, drink what pleases you and yours, by all means.

I recently received a few bottles from Joel Gott Wines, and two of them stood out to my palate. The 2017 815 Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2017 California Chardonnay. You can find the former for around $17, and the latter for $13 or so.

The (100 percent) Cabernet Sauvignon is immediately approachable, and it’s a fruit-forward pour, full of black cherry and raspberry. Eighteen months in oak produce a wine with pronounced, defined tannins and decent acidity. I paired it with a New York Strip, and was pleased.

The Chardonnay is made with grapes from Monterey, Santa Barbara, and San Luis Obispo vineyards, and you can taste Napa and Sonoma fruit in the glass. Jasmine, citrus, and a touch of peach greet you in this easy-to-drink wine.

Both of the Gott selections are ideal for by-the-case stocking, and you can find them at a wide variety of merchants. (I’m going to sample Gott’s California Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc soon.)

I have been cooking a lot lately. I mean, I cook all the time, but since the evening of March 12, I have not dined in a restaurant, so I’m in our home kitchen even more now, for reasons of which you are aware. I have not yet given this much thought, other than being reminded that our public dining spaces, be they taco stands, food halls, or Spago or Le Bernardin, are a vital part of our existence. I hope you feel the same.

Orrechiette with green peas, zucchini, and feta

In our home kitchen, I’ve stocked up on beans and pasta, firm tofu (for saag paneer and other dishes), canned tomatoes, a lot more garlic than I usually have on hand, plus cold cuts, mushrooms, tuna, and … you get the picture, and I imagine you have done similar. My attempts at procuring yeast locally failed, but a few fine people have offered to send some, and my sourdough starter is under way (thanks for the reminder, Evan Kleiman!) We are ordering from Whole Foods and Ralph’s, and tipping the delivery workers well.

I have purposefully refrained from mentioning COVID-19 here, while I work out my myriad thoughts about what the world is going through. I am glad John Prine’s condition has stabilized, but grieving for Wallace Roney and Ellis Marsalis. I will say that I am touched by the selflessness being shown by so many medical professionals and caregivers, and disgusted by the examples of idiocy demonstrated by leaders of some states — I will single out the governors of Texas, Tennessee, Florida, Georgia, and Alabama.

I am hoping you and yours are well.

Rioja, wonderful Rioja ...

A Crianza For Every Day, Plus a Special Evening in Los Angeles

March 8, 2020 / / 0 Comments

Rioja means a lot to me. I’ve spent time in the beautiful region on several occasions, with Angela and friends, and we always dined and drank well.

This wine is a must-buy.

Tempranillo is the key word there, and here, because the wine I want to tell you about today is 100 percent Tempranillo, a Crianza from Viña Pomal.

As you’ll read, I paired it with lamb chops, and everything about the combination was just right. You can find this bottle for around $16, and I’d buy it by the case if I were you.

It’s going to be amazing …

For anyone in Los Angeles on March 10, I have a recommendation for you, and it can be conveyed in three words: Heitz, Mayacamas, and Corison. You’ll need a reservation at the NoMad Hotel, an appetite, and the capacity to deal with wines from three spectacular producers.

EVENING MENU

CANAPES
Cauliflower Hummus Tartlet
Chicken Burger with Truffle Mayo, Frisee & Pickled Shallots
Hanger Steak Skewer with Salsa Verde

Paired with
Billecart-Salmon, Selection NoMad, Extra Brut, Mareuil-Sur-Ay


FIRST COURSE
Kanpachi Ceviche
Radish, Onion, and Lettuces

Paired with
2018 Heitz, Chardonnay, Quartz Creek Vineyard
2018 Corazon, Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley
2002 Mayacamas, Chardonnay, Mt Veeder


SECOND COURSE
Cavatelli
Winter Mushrooms, Swiss Chard & Parmesan

Paired with
2014 Heitz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trailside Vineyard
2015 Corison, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2015 Mayacamas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder


THIRD COURSE
NoMad Roasted Chicken Breast 
Black Truffle-Parmesan Stuffing with Roasted Sweet Potatoes & Chicken Jus

Paired with
2000 Heitz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Trailside Vineyard
2005 Corison, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2005 Mayacamas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder

Drink well, with those you love.

Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, outs Pinot Noir in the spotlight.

Keats and Pinot Noir: Theresa Heredia Talks Wine and Poetry

March 3, 2020 / / 0 Comments

Wine Talk is is celebrating a birthday — it’s a 4-year old now — and the most recent subject, Gary Farrell’s Theres Heredia, is a winemaker you should get to know.

First, she pairs food and wine with aplomb (wait until you read her recommendation for lamb). Second, she knows her Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and is making some great ones at the Sonoma winery. Finally, she admires the poetry of John Keats.

Read Heredia’s Wine Talk here, and take a look at some of the back catalogue by visiting the links below.

Want more Wine Talk? From Paris to Los Angeles and many other places, the goodness flows
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

The U.S. Trade Representative's Office poured a little bit of good news last week, but this dispute is far from over.

Wine and Spirits Industry Breathes Sigh of Relief

February 19, 2020 / / 0 Comments

The tariffs will remain at 25 percent, stated the Office of the United States Trade Representative last week, and that’s a good thing for the wine and spirits industry. However, it is far too soon for cries of joy.

The U.S. was mulling slapping tariffs at a much higher level — perhaps as high as 100 percent — but decided to maintain the status quo.

Airbus is the entity the U.S. government is upset with, and that dispute is the cause for the current tariffs that are imposed on European wines, cheeses, and other items. The USTR’s office, in its Feb. 14 statement, added that the tariffs on Airbus will increase to 15 percent from the current 10 percent, effective March 18.

According to the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA), referring to data from economists at John Dunham and Associates, under current tariff levels, the U.S. beverage alcohol industry could lose as many as 36,000 jobs, and awards of $1.6 billion in wages, which could cost the U.S. economy more than $5.3 billion in 2020.

“Our industry provides consumers with the most diverse selection of products in the world and supports hundreds of thousands of jobs across the country in an array of related industries,” said Michelle Korsmo WSWA president and CEO. “Our members offer products for every taste, budget and occasion and are already being negatively impacted by the imposition of retaliatory tariffs by China and the European Union on U.S-origin distilled spirits and wines – these tariffs will only increase that burden.”

The 25 percent tariff in place now apply to still wine with an alcohol content below 14 percent produced in France, Germany, Spain, and the United Kingdom. Wine from Italy, as well as all sparkling wine, is spared. The tariffs also effect single-malt Scotch whisky, whiskey from Northern Ireland, and cordials and liqueurs hailing from Germany, Ireland, Italy, Spain, and the U.K.

Stay tuned, because this trade dispute is far from over.

Drink some Rebo!

On a happier note, I sampled a number of wines recently that you should know about, including a Zinfandel and a Chardonnay from Frank Family Vineyards, an Italian red blend (40 percent Rebo, 40 percent Corvina, and 20 percent Merlot), and a Bordeaux blend that I’ve added to my inventory.

All of these wines are drinking wonderfully now, and the Château Malescasse (2016 vintage) will certainly reward you with some aging.

Drink well, with those you love.

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