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Wine, Food, and Other Vital Things

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Wine Talk: From Cleveland to Houston, With No Nonsense

March 21, 2017 / / 0 Comments

Back in December 2016, I accepted an invitation to taste some wines at Rosinka Wine & Tea House, a little place in Houston to which I had never been. I’d driven by the wine bar (yes, tea is also sold there) several times, but never had the time to stop, so was happy to accept. On the evening of the tasting, Angela and I arrived and encountered Nicholas Cain, the man behind the bar at Rosinka. He poured and we talked and I grew to like Cain more as we spoke. He was — and is — straightforward, friendly, devoid of pretension, and passionate about food and wine and making sure people enjoy them.

I knew he would be the perfect subject for Wine Talk, so here it is. Give it a read, then pay a visit to Cain at Rosinka. You’ll enjoy the wines and the conversation.

Want more Wine Talk? Check out these stories:

The Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Terry Theise Talks Riesling and Champagne
The Wine Daughter
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

T. Boone Pickens has had a rollicking and lively life, and he's not done yet. (Photo by Wade Griffith)

T. Boone Pickens Talks Women, Poetry, and His Mother’s Meatloaf

January 10, 2017 / / 0 Comments

The man is a legend, and his forays as a corporate raider are the stuff of dramatic stories and myths. He began in the business world at 12, with a newspaper route, and he’s been married five times. He suffered a small stoke earlier this week, but is back at work, most certainly making plans for further business ventures.

I subjected T. Boone Pickens to the Discussing Under the Influence questionnaire, and his responses were, true to his outsized form, enlightening, blunt, and diplomatic. He was in London at the time of our correspondence, so perhaps that city influenced his thoughts. Judge for yourself … click here for T. Boone Pickens Discussing Under the Influence.

(Here’s some other DUI interrogations featuring Mark Cuban, Tony Vallone, and Gerald D. Hines.)

My Long and Winding Journey With Riesling Continues

November 26, 2016 / / 0 Comments
Terry Theise: A man of wine.

Terry Theise: A man of wine.

So many bottles, so little time. Still, you recall hundreds of moments when the cork slid from the green vessel, the friends near you, the setting (a winery in Rheinland-Pfalz, a castle in Bavaria, Holger and Gudrun’s house, a Houston restaurant, a patch of grass in Brooklyn), the food, the laughter and conversation. It’s a journey that began for you during a magical time, and you’ve learned much in the days and nights since. And through it all, Riesling.

Several years ago I initiated an email conversation with Terry Theise. (Many of you will be familiar with him, and to those of you who aren’t, if you are in the slightest interested in wine, I recommend you get to know him; Reading Between the Vines is a good place to start.) Theise agreed to answer a few questions for me recently, and he’s the star of my latest Wine Talk. Give it a read here, then open a bottle and make some memories.

The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming Served It Forth

November 17, 2016 / / 0 Comments

The lobsters had been prepped, the dessert (ginger ice cream and Edna Lewis’s Very Good Chocolate Cake) was ready, and Chris and I were discussing plating. It was Saturday, November 12, and The Brockhaus was making another appearance in Montrose, cooking in the house where its Houston chapter began, back in September 2014. At 3 p.m., and all was well. It turned out to be a homecoming worth savoring.

The Brockhaus

The guests would arrive at 7, and we’d serve them some Champagne and a chance to chat before dinner. (Judy and Russ and hosts Jared and Caroline were Brockhaus veterans, but the other attendees were new to us, and one another.) The porch overlooking the pool was the perfect spot for mingling.

The Brockhaus

Norma and Gary and Melanie — our team for the evening, from The Culinary Institute LeNôtre — were on the way. (Their work was instrumental to the evening; a kitchen is only as good as its team … there’s no room for deadwood, something that was drilled into me at Amador and Arzak.) Chris and I went over the schedule one final time, divided the tasks, and continued prepping, I taking care of the crab cakes, Chris dealing with the Billi Bi components. Angela entered the scene and began her planning.

The hours — as they always do — flew by, and the evening progressed. The guests talked and drank, the kitchen ran smoothly, and the plating and service hummed. The conversation emanating from the table flowed, the wines (selected by Jeremy Hart, of Banville Wine Merchants) pleased. All was as it should be in that bungalow in Montrose. The courses went out on time — the lobster and ribeye were highlights — and 11:30 arrived without a hitch. Quail, crab cakes, tuna, ginger ice cream … we thank our guests and partners, including Chantal, whose products we love to use.

Until next time, here are some images of The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming (November 12, 2016):

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Vespaio: fontina, speck, arugula, and egg.

A Delicious Reunion in a Little Brasserie South of Houston

November 9, 2016 / / 0 Comments

I have known Kris Jakob for a few years now, and I like his approach to — and passion for — food and cooking. He’s a Texas-born, European-trained chef, and he knows how to take care of his guests. I worked with him at Kris Bistro for a while, back in 2014, and enjoyed the experience.

Kris Jakob has set up a fine restaurant in Friendswood, Texas.

Kris Jakob has set up a fine restaurant in Friendswood, Texas.

He left that restaurant, and is now plying his trade a little ways south of Houston, in a community called Friendswood. I’m glad he’s back making good food. Click here for a look at a few recent visits Angela and I made to Brasserie 1895; we ate well. Jakob has some great people at his new place, and the restaurant is a welcome addition to the landscape.

Guy Stout’s Wine Classes Are Back: Four Nights, Lots of Bottles and Learning

November 6, 2016 / / 2 Comments

I am a fortunate man, for many reasons. Being able to call Guy Stout a friend is one of them. He’s a true character, a larger-than-life, Texas-born-and-bred original. I’ve learned a lot from him, and look forward to learning more. We’ve shared a table on numerous occasions, and opened a good number of bottles. It’s like a moveable feast, one always full of great stories and food.

A man of wine. (Photo by Alfonso Cevola)

A man of wine. (Photo by Alfonso Cevola)

If you like wine, and want to know more about it, your chance is now, because Stout’s Wine School is back. Beginning on Nov. 7, he’ll introduce you to the world of oenology, delving into the New World and the Old World, the basic and the esoteric. Don’t miss these four evenings. Click here for all the details, and get ready to be schooled.

(Read this for Stout’s Wine Talk.)

This guy's a winner.

Mark Cuban Opens Up, Talks About His Love for White Castle Burgers and ‘The Fountainhead’

November 3, 2016 / / 0 Comments

The more I come to know about Mark Cuban, the more I like him. I admire people who speak their mind, who don’t take “no” for an answer, who push themselves and others to go for the best, and that’s Cuban. He’s brash, smart, outspoken, he likes to succeed, and he loves to help people with good ideas succeed. He’s a busy man, so I was happy when he agreed to answer a few questions; we exchanged a number of emails, and he took time out from filming in New York to send me his thoughts and opinions. Click here for Mark Cuban Discussing Under the Influence.

Interrogating the Developer Behind — To Name But One Landmark — NYC’s Lipstick Building

September 25, 2016 / / 0 Comments

PaperCity‘s first-ever bound issue hit the stands earlier this month, and the accolades have been pouring in. For 22 years, the Houston and Dallas editions were published in tabloid format, bringing thousands of stories and images to an ever-expanding audience. Now, a new look, and a new energy, promise 22 more years (plus!) of  profiles and events and insight. Stay tuned, and thanks for reading.

Here’s a look at a piece I did for the Septembers issue; it’s a new feature we are calling “Discussing Under the Influence,” and Gerald D. Hines is our first subject. Click here to find out what makes the billionaire developer tick.

 

Snapper, zucchini agrodolce

The Brockhaus Returns to its (Houston) Beginnings: November 12 Marks a Montrose Homecoming

August 30, 2016 / / 2 Comments

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It’s a house in the Montrose section of Houston, the home of dear friends. It’s a lovely place, with a pool and lots of art. And it was the venue for The Brockhaus’s premiere evening, back in September of 2014. Eight guests, engaging and stimulating conversation, lots of laughter, and, of course, food and wine. We attracted a bit of attention, made some new friends, and went on to stage dinners on Nantucket, in the Galleria area, in the Heights of Houston, near Dallas, and, back in Houston, in Memorial (evenings in two homes there). May 7 was the date of the most recent event, and 10 guests gathered around the table then. There were truffles and lobster and, again, some great wines.

The First Supper menu

The First Supper menu

That house in Montrose kept calling to me, and now it’s time for a return engagement. On November 12, The Brockhaus will cook again at the bungalow, in what will be a homecoming of sorts, a homecoming and an evening in honor of late chefs and cooks who have inspired us. We’ll remember Charlie Trotter and Fernand Point, Julia Child and Edna Lewis, plus Craig Claiborne and Michel Richard. Their lives and passions, and their approach to food. This is an homage, a celebration, not a re-creation. The menu was inspired by these greats, and it’s a progression of courses that we are certain would please them all.

Snapper

Snapper, zucchini agrodolce

Without further ado, the menu (and as always, there will be surprises):

THE BROCKHAUS HOMECOMING
November 12, 2016

1.
Billi Bi
Craig Claiborne

San Salvatore “Pian di Stio” Campania 2015 (Fiano) — Special bottling of Fiano in a 500-ml bottle, back-to-back Tre Bicchieri from Gambero Rosso.  Imagine a crisp mineral-driven white with the secondary notes of young Sherry.

2.
Butter-Poached Lobster 
Charlie Trotter

Terlano “Nova Domus” Alto-Adige 2008 Magnum (60 percent Pinot Bianco, 30 percent Chardonnay, 10 percent Sauvignon) — The winery has produced this stellar blend since 1893. It’s a  wine built to age.  .

3.
Corn Nugget Crab Cakes
Michel Richard

Michele Satta Viognier Bolgheri 2013 — A Tuscan from the man who planted some of the most famous vineyards in the world.  An incredible  Viognier with broad appeal.

4.
Quail in Champagne
Fernand Point

Pietro Cassina “Ca’ daj Tàss” Coste delle Sesia DOC 2011 — Super-soft style of Nebbiolo from Lessona in northwest Piedmont.

5.
Wagyu Ribeye with Chimichurri
Julia Child

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casato “Prime Donne” Brunello di  Montalcino 2010 ~ First-all female winery in Italy, a silky/complex style of Brunello; the winery is in (far) north Montalcino. Special blend assembled by five women hailing from four different countries. The 2010 is considered the best one ever (so far).

6.
Very Good Chocolate Cake
Edna Lewis

Tolaini “Valdisanti”  2011 (75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Sangiovese 5 percent  Cabernet Franc) — Michel Rolland and Diego Bonato made this Super Tuscan in a specific part of Chianti Classico famous for producing powerful reds.

The Brockhaus is pleased to be partnering with Jeremy W. Hart,  regional manager for Banville Wine Merchants.  I have enjoyed talking with Jeremy about wines, and know you will, too. He’s based in Houston, and covers Texas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Colorado, and recently announced a wine-and-dining tour that will take place in several cities. Live and Let Dine will feature dinners at Commander’s Palace, Italic, Galatoire’s, Hunky Dory, June’s, and many more.  Go to liveandletdinetour.com for further information. The Brockhaus is looking forward to experiencing Live and Let Dine.

$145 per person/wine pairing with each course/mirth/new friends

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Adding the final details

Leather and Silver: It’s a Work of Art

May 21, 2016 / / 0 Comments
Leather and silver, and new to my wardrobe.

Leather and silver, and new to my wardrobe.

It’s done. I picked up my belt today, a handcrafted beauty from Jason Maida’s workshop, one I’ll wear and enjoy for years. It’s made of alligator, soft and supple and strong, and its sterling silver buckle shines.

I profiled Maida and his art for PaperCity magazine earlier this year — you can read the story here — and never tire of visiting his showroom. It’s full of buckles and jewelry vintage and new, wonderful turquoise and silver necklaces and earrings and bracelets. Maida is a walking encyclopedia when it comes to the buckle (and other subjects), and his enthusiasm is infectious. Pay him a visit and see what I mean.

The artist in his workshop

The artist in his workshop

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