Mise en Place

Wine, Food, and Other Vital Things

Page 17 of 28

My Long and Winding Journey With Riesling Continues

November 26, 2016 / / 0 Comments
Terry Theise: A man of wine.

Terry Theise: A man of wine.

So many bottles, so little time. Still, you recall hundreds of moments when the cork slid from the green vessel, the friends near you, the setting (a winery in Rheinland-Pfalz, a castle in Bavaria, Holger and Gudrun’s house, a Houston restaurant, a patch of grass in Brooklyn), the food, the laughter and conversation. It’s a journey that began for you during a magical time, and you’ve learned much in the days and nights since. And through it all, Riesling.

Several years ago I initiated an email conversation with Terry Theise. (Many of you will be familiar with him, and to those of you who aren’t, if you are in the slightest interested in wine, I recommend you get to know him; Reading Between the Vines is a good place to start.) Theise agreed to answer a few questions for me recently, and he’s the star of my latest Wine Talk. Give it a read here, then open a bottle and make some memories.

The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming Served It Forth

November 17, 2016 / / 0 Comments

The lobsters had been prepped, the dessert (ginger ice cream and Edna Lewis’s Very Good Chocolate Cake) was ready, and Chris and I were discussing plating. It was Saturday, November 12, and The Brockhaus was making another appearance in Montrose, cooking in the house where its Houston chapter began, back in September 2014. At 3 p.m., and all was well. It turned out to be a homecoming worth savoring.

The Brockhaus

The guests would arrive at 7, and we’d serve them some Champagne and a chance to chat before dinner. (Judy and Russ and hosts Jared and Caroline were Brockhaus veterans, but the other attendees were new to us, and one another.) The porch overlooking the pool was the perfect spot for mingling.

The Brockhaus

Norma and Gary and Melanie — our team for the evening, from The Culinary Institute LeNôtre — were on the way. (Their work was instrumental to the evening; a kitchen is only as good as its team … there’s no room for deadwood, something that was drilled into me at Amador and Arzak.) Chris and I went over the schedule one final time, divided the tasks, and continued prepping, I taking care of the crab cakes, Chris dealing with the Billi Bi components. Angela entered the scene and began her planning.

The hours — as they always do — flew by, and the evening progressed. The guests talked and drank, the kitchen ran smoothly, and the plating and service hummed. The conversation emanating from the table flowed, the wines (selected by Jeremy Hart, of Banville Wine Merchants) pleased. All was as it should be in that bungalow in Montrose. The courses went out on time — the lobster and ribeye were highlights — and 11:30 arrived without a hitch. Quail, crab cakes, tuna, ginger ice cream … we thank our guests and partners, including Chantal, whose products we love to use.

Until next time, here are some images of The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming (November 12, 2016):

img_0023

img_0004

img_1980 img_1977 img_0967 img_0958 img_0005 img_0009
 img_0021 img_0020 img_0019 img_0956 img_0026 img_0025 img_0024 img_0018 img_0017 img_0015

img_0007
 img_0013

img_0014

img_9091 img_9082 img_9071 img_9066 img_9060

Vespaio: fontina, speck, arugula, and egg.

A Delicious Reunion in a Little Brasserie South of Houston

November 9, 2016 / / 0 Comments

I have known Kris Jakob for a few years now, and I like his approach to — and passion for — food and cooking. He’s a Texas-born, European-trained chef, and he knows how to take care of his guests. I worked with him at Kris Bistro for a while, back in 2014, and enjoyed the experience.

Kris Jakob has set up a fine restaurant in Friendswood, Texas.

Kris Jakob has set up a fine restaurant in Friendswood, Texas.

He left that restaurant, and is now plying his trade a little ways south of Houston, in a community called Friendswood. I’m glad he’s back making good food. Click here for a look at a few recent visits Angela and I made to Brasserie 1895; we ate well. Jakob has some great people at his new place, and the restaurant is a welcome addition to the landscape.

Guy Stout’s Wine Classes Are Back: Four Nights, Lots of Bottles and Learning

November 6, 2016 / / 2 Comments

I am a fortunate man, for many reasons. Being able to call Guy Stout a friend is one of them. He’s a true character, a larger-than-life, Texas-born-and-bred original. I’ve learned a lot from him, and look forward to learning more. We’ve shared a table on numerous occasions, and opened a good number of bottles. It’s like a moveable feast, one always full of great stories and food.

A man of wine. (Photo by Alfonso Cevola)

A man of wine. (Photo by Alfonso Cevola)

If you like wine, and want to know more about it, your chance is now, because Stout’s Wine School is back. Beginning on Nov. 7, he’ll introduce you to the world of oenology, delving into the New World and the Old World, the basic and the esoteric. Don’t miss these four evenings. Click here for all the details, and get ready to be schooled.

(Read this for Stout’s Wine Talk.)

This guy's a winner.

Mark Cuban Opens Up, Talks About His Love for White Castle Burgers and ‘The Fountainhead’

November 3, 2016 / / 0 Comments

The more I come to know about Mark Cuban, the more I like him. I admire people who speak their mind, who don’t take “no” for an answer, who push themselves and others to go for the best, and that’s Cuban. He’s brash, smart, outspoken, he likes to succeed, and he loves to help people with good ideas succeed. He’s a busy man, so I was happy when he agreed to answer a few questions; we exchanged a number of emails, and he took time out from filming in New York to send me his thoughts and opinions. Click here for Mark Cuban Discussing Under the Influence.

Interrogating the Developer Behind — To Name But One Landmark — NYC’s Lipstick Building

September 25, 2016 / / 0 Comments

PaperCity‘s first-ever bound issue hit the stands earlier this month, and the accolades have been pouring in. For 22 years, the Houston and Dallas editions were published in tabloid format, bringing thousands of stories and images to an ever-expanding audience. Now, a new look, and a new energy, promise 22 more years (plus!) of  profiles and events and insight. Stay tuned, and thanks for reading.

Here’s a look at a piece I did for the Septembers issue; it’s a new feature we are calling “Discussing Under the Influence,” and Gerald D. Hines is our first subject. Click here to find out what makes the billionaire developer tick.

 

Snapper, zucchini agrodolce

The Brockhaus Returns to its (Houston) Beginnings: November 12 Marks a Montrose Homecoming

August 30, 2016 / / 2 Comments

It’s a house in the Montrose section of Houston, the home of dear friends. It’s a lovely place, with a pool and lots of art. And it was the venue for The Brockhaus’s premiere evening, back in September of 2014. Eight guests, engaging and stimulating conversation, lots of laughter, and, of course, food and wine. We attracted a bit of attention, made some new friends, and went on to stage dinners on Nantucket, in the Galleria area, in the Heights of Houston, near Dallas, and, back in Houston, in Memorial (evenings in two homes there). May 7 was the date of the most recent event, and 10 guests gathered around the table then. There were truffles and lobster and, again, some great wines.

The First Supper menu

The First Supper menu

That house in Montrose kept calling to me, and now it’s time for a return engagement. On November 12, The Brockhaus will cook again at the bungalow, in what will be a homecoming of sorts, a homecoming and an evening in honor of late chefs and cooks who have inspired us. We’ll remember Charlie Trotter and Fernand Point, Julia Child and Edna Lewis, plus Craig Claiborne and Michel Richard. Their lives and passions, and their approach to food. This is an homage, a celebration, not a re-creation. The menu was inspired by these greats, and it’s a progression of courses that we are certain would please them all.

Snapper

Snapper, zucchini agrodolce

Without further ado, the menu (and as always, there will be surprises):

THE BROCKHAUS HOMECOMING
November 12, 2016

1.
Billi Bi
Craig Claiborne

San Salvatore “Pian di Stio” Campania 2015 (Fiano) — Special bottling of Fiano in a 500-ml bottle, back-to-back Tre Bicchieri from Gambero Rosso.  Imagine a crisp mineral-driven white with the secondary notes of young Sherry.

2.
Butter-Poached Lobster 
Charlie Trotter

Terlano “Nova Domus” Alto-Adige 2008 Magnum (60 percent Pinot Bianco, 30 percent Chardonnay, 10 percent Sauvignon) — The winery has produced this stellar blend since 1893. It’s a  wine built to age.  .

3.
Corn Nugget Crab Cakes
Michel Richard

Michele Satta Viognier Bolgheri 2013 — A Tuscan from the man who planted some of the most famous vineyards in the world.  An incredible  Viognier with broad appeal.

4.
Quail in Champagne
Fernand Point

Pietro Cassina “Ca’ daj Tàss” Coste delle Sesia DOC 2011 — Super-soft style of Nebbiolo from Lessona in northwest Piedmont.

5.
Wagyu Ribeye with Chimichurri
Julia Child

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casato “Prime Donne” Brunello di  Montalcino 2010 ~ First-all female winery in Italy, a silky/complex style of Brunello; the winery is in (far) north Montalcino. Special blend assembled by five women hailing from four different countries. The 2010 is considered the best one ever (so far).

6.
Very Good Chocolate Cake
Edna Lewis

Tolaini “Valdisanti”  2011 (75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Sangiovese 5 percent  Cabernet Franc) — Michel Rolland and Diego Bonato made this Super Tuscan in a specific part of Chianti Classico famous for producing powerful reds.

The Brockhaus is pleased to be partnering with Jeremy W. Hart,  regional manager for Banville Wine Merchants.  I have enjoyed talking with Jeremy about wines, and know you will, too. He’s based in Houston, and covers Texas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Colorado, and recently announced a wine-and-dining tour that will take place in several cities. Live and Let Dine will feature dinners at Commander’s Palace, Italic, Galatoire’s, Hunky Dory, June’s, and many more.  Go to liveandletdinetour.com for further information. The Brockhaus is looking forward to experiencing Live and Let Dine.

$145 per person/wine pairing with each course/mirth/new friends

 IMG_8633 IMG_8629 DSC_2248

Adding the final details

Leather and Silver: It’s a Work of Art

May 21, 2016 / / 0 Comments
Leather and silver, and new to my wardrobe.

Leather and silver, and new to my wardrobe.

It’s done. I picked up my belt today, a handcrafted beauty from Jason Maida’s workshop, one I’ll wear and enjoy for years. It’s made of alligator, soft and supple and strong, and its sterling silver buckle shines.

I profiled Maida and his art for PaperCity magazine earlier this year — you can read the story here — and never tire of visiting his showroom. It’s full of buckles and jewelry vintage and new, wonderful turquoise and silver necklaces and earrings and bracelets. Maida is a walking encyclopedia when it comes to the buckle (and other subjects), and his enthusiasm is infectious. Pay him a visit and see what I mean.

The artist in his workshop

The artist in his workshop

A Truffled Affair in Houston Continues The Brockhaus Project

May 11, 2016 / / 2 Comments

The weather was glorious, perfect for the Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut that was served in the back garden to guests as they arrived, on time at 7. Sun warm and lowering on the horizon, the air dry, a slight breeze blowing. The kitchen was full of activity, the table was set, and The Brockhaus: A Truffled Affair was under way.

May 7

Eight guests … sipping Franciacorta while waiting on the final two diners.

We were partnering with Diane Roederer, the owner of  DR Delicacy, and cooking with some of her company’s wares — morels and summer truffles on this occasion. We started with raviolo and egg, plus truffle, then eased into butter-poached lobster. Snapper came next, topped with zucchini and mint, blessed with an agrodolce. A surprise course of scallop and a bacon/cream sauce followed, then came morel stuffed with foie gras. The next course was short rib over Acquerello risotto, and truffle. We ended the meal with bacon ice cream and a peanut tuile. Wines were our usual selections: value-priced bottles, not served for wow factor, but paired in a logical and confident manner. They hailed from Alsace, Tuscany, Sonoma, and a few other locales, and they were worthy pours.  A kitchen alive with orderly activity, a round table full of talk and smiles: That’s a beautiful combination.

Chris and I had begun prepping that morning, sitting down over our menu and devising a schedule, dividing the tasks. We filleted the snappers and broke down the lobsters, cleaned the morels and made the pasta dough. It was clockwork, and  fun. He and I have shared a kitchen on many occasions, beginning in Abu Dhabi, and I never tire of cooking with him. (I had made the dessert and cooked the short ribs the day before, so by the time the rest of the crew arrived we were in great shape for the service.)

And what a crew! Norma, Henri, and Aniva — the former a student at Culinary Institute LeNôtre, the latter two French interns at River Oaks Country Club — took over at the sink, washing and drying the myriad wine glasses and helping with the prep. Angela and Anna, two Brockhaus stalwarts, arrived later in the day and assumed their roles, which include hostessing, plating, and general troubleshooting. Diane took care of some last-minute logistics and presented the morels and truffles for my approval.

IMG_4036

The first course was to be served at 8 p.m., so Chris and I began rolling out the pasta dough and making the raviolo. Seven courses flew by, wines were opened and poured, courses went to table. Before we knew it, midnight arrived, and with it the departure of the guests.

Stay tuned for the next appearance of  The Brockhaus.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Dish of the Day: French White Asparagus, Norcia Truffle, Cacio e Pepe, Soft Egg

April 30, 2016 / / 0 Comments

 

IMG_8532

Spargelzeit! It’s here. And though I am not in Germany as I write this, and it was French asparagus, the truffles were Italian, from Norcia, and it was, and is, an excellent dish. I had it at lunch yesterday, at Tony’s, and the asparagus was slightly crunchy, full of flavor, perched atop a fried egg whose yolk oozed when I cut into it. The cheese was salty and tangy and I wanted the asparagus to last forever. But nothing does, so order this soon.

« Older posts Newer posts »

© 2025 Mise en Place

Theme by Anders Noren — Up ↑

Mise en Place

Wine, Food, and Other Vital Things

Skip to content ↓