Mise en Place

Page 17 of 28

Snapper, zucchini agrodolce

The Brockhaus Returns to its (Houston) Beginnings: November 12 Marks a Montrose Homecoming

August 30, 2016 / / 2 Comments

It’s a house in the Montrose section of Houston, the home of dear friends. It’s a lovely place, with a pool and lots of art. And it was the venue for The Brockhaus’s premiere evening, back in September of 2014. Eight guests, engaging and stimulating conversation, lots of laughter, and, of course, food and wine. We attracted a bit of attention, made some new friends, and went on to stage dinners on Nantucket, in the Galleria area, in the Heights of Houston, near Dallas, and, back in Houston, in Memorial (evenings in two homes there). May 7 was the date of the most recent event, and 10 guests gathered around the table then. There were truffles and lobster and, again, some great wines.

The First Supper menu

The First Supper menu

That house in Montrose kept calling to me, and now it’s time for a return engagement. On November 12, The Brockhaus will cook again at the bungalow, in what will be a homecoming of sorts, a homecoming and an evening in honor of late chefs and cooks who have inspired us. We’ll remember Charlie Trotter and Fernand Point, Julia Child and Edna Lewis, plus Craig Claiborne and Michel Richard. Their lives and passions, and their approach to food. This is an homage, a celebration, not a re-creation. The menu was inspired by these greats, and it’s a progression of courses that we are certain would please them all.

Snapper

Snapper, zucchini agrodolce

Without further ado, the menu (and as always, there will be surprises):

THE BROCKHAUS HOMECOMING
November 12, 2016

1.
Billi Bi
Craig Claiborne

San Salvatore “Pian di Stio” Campania 2015 (Fiano) — Special bottling of Fiano in a 500-ml bottle, back-to-back Tre Bicchieri from Gambero Rosso.  Imagine a crisp mineral-driven white with the secondary notes of young Sherry.

2.
Butter-Poached Lobster 
Charlie Trotter

Terlano “Nova Domus” Alto-Adige 2008 Magnum (60 percent Pinot Bianco, 30 percent Chardonnay, 10 percent Sauvignon) — The winery has produced this stellar blend since 1893. It’s a  wine built to age.  .

3.
Corn Nugget Crab Cakes
Michel Richard

Michele Satta Viognier Bolgheri 2013 — A Tuscan from the man who planted some of the most famous vineyards in the world.  An incredible  Viognier with broad appeal.

4.
Quail in Champagne
Fernand Point

Pietro Cassina “Ca’ daj Tàss” Coste delle Sesia DOC 2011 — Super-soft style of Nebbiolo from Lessona in northwest Piedmont.

5.
Wagyu Ribeye with Chimichurri
Julia Child

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casato “Prime Donne” Brunello di  Montalcino 2010 ~ First-all female winery in Italy, a silky/complex style of Brunello; the winery is in (far) north Montalcino. Special blend assembled by five women hailing from four different countries. The 2010 is considered the best one ever (so far).

6.
Very Good Chocolate Cake
Edna Lewis

Tolaini “Valdisanti”  2011 (75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Sangiovese 5 percent  Cabernet Franc) — Michel Rolland and Diego Bonato made this Super Tuscan in a specific part of Chianti Classico famous for producing powerful reds.

The Brockhaus is pleased to be partnering with Jeremy W. Hart,  regional manager for Banville Wine Merchants.  I have enjoyed talking with Jeremy about wines, and know you will, too. He’s based in Houston, and covers Texas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Colorado, and recently announced a wine-and-dining tour that will take place in several cities. Live and Let Dine will feature dinners at Commander’s Palace, Italic, Galatoire’s, Hunky Dory, June’s, and many more.  Go to liveandletdinetour.com for further information. The Brockhaus is looking forward to experiencing Live and Let Dine.

$145 per person/wine pairing with each course/mirth/new friends

 IMG_8633 IMG_8629 DSC_2248

Adding the final details

Leather and Silver: It’s a Work of Art

May 21, 2016 / / 0 Comments
Leather and silver, and new to my wardrobe.

Leather and silver, and new to my wardrobe.

It’s done. I picked up my belt today, a handcrafted beauty from Jason Maida’s workshop, one I’ll wear and enjoy for years. It’s made of alligator, soft and supple and strong, and its sterling silver buckle shines.

I profiled Maida and his art for PaperCity magazine earlier this year — you can read the story here — and never tire of visiting his showroom. It’s full of buckles and jewelry vintage and new, wonderful turquoise and silver necklaces and earrings and bracelets. Maida is a walking encyclopedia when it comes to the buckle (and other subjects), and his enthusiasm is infectious. Pay him a visit and see what I mean.

The artist in his workshop

The artist in his workshop

A Truffled Affair in Houston Continues The Brockhaus Project

May 11, 2016 / / 2 Comments

The weather was glorious, perfect for the Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut that was served in the back garden to guests as they arrived, on time at 7. Sun warm and lowering on the horizon, the air dry, a slight breeze blowing. The kitchen was full of activity, the table was set, and The Brockhaus: A Truffled Affair was under way.

May 7

Eight guests … sipping Franciacorta while waiting on the final two diners.

We were partnering with Diane Roederer, the owner of  DR Delicacy, and cooking with some of her company’s wares — morels and summer truffles on this occasion. We started with raviolo and egg, plus truffle, then eased into butter-poached lobster. Snapper came next, topped with zucchini and mint, blessed with an agrodolce. A surprise course of scallop and a bacon/cream sauce followed, then came morel stuffed with foie gras. The next course was short rib over Acquerello risotto, and truffle. We ended the meal with bacon ice cream and a peanut tuile. Wines were our usual selections: value-priced bottles, not served for wow factor, but paired in a logical and confident manner. They hailed from Alsace, Tuscany, Sonoma, and a few other locales, and they were worthy pours.  A kitchen alive with orderly activity, a round table full of talk and smiles: That’s a beautiful combination.

Chris and I had begun prepping that morning, sitting down over our menu and devising a schedule, dividing the tasks. We filleted the snappers and broke down the lobsters, cleaned the morels and made the pasta dough. It was clockwork, and  fun. He and I have shared a kitchen on many occasions, beginning in Abu Dhabi, and I never tire of cooking with him. (I had made the dessert and cooked the short ribs the day before, so by the time the rest of the crew arrived we were in great shape for the service.)

And what a crew! Norma, Henri, and Aniva — the former a student at Culinary Institute LeNôtre, the latter two French interns at River Oaks Country Club — took over at the sink, washing and drying the myriad wine glasses and helping with the prep. Angela and Anna, two Brockhaus stalwarts, arrived later in the day and assumed their roles, which include hostessing, plating, and general troubleshooting. Diane took care of some last-minute logistics and presented the morels and truffles for my approval.

IMG_4036

The first course was to be served at 8 p.m., so Chris and I began rolling out the pasta dough and making the raviolo. Seven courses flew by, wines were opened and poured, courses went to table. Before we knew it, midnight arrived, and with it the departure of the guests.

Stay tuned for the next appearance of  The Brockhaus.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Dish of the Day: French White Asparagus, Norcia Truffle, Cacio e Pepe, Soft Egg

April 30, 2016 / / 0 Comments

 

IMG_8532

Spargelzeit! It’s here. And though I am not in Germany as I write this, and it was French asparagus, the truffles were Italian, from Norcia, and it was, and is, an excellent dish. I had it at lunch yesterday, at Tony’s, and the asparagus was slightly crunchy, full of flavor, perched atop a fried egg whose yolk oozed when I cut into it. The cheese was salty and tangy and I wanted the asparagus to last forever. But nothing does, so order this soon.

James Brock Partners With the Chantal Corporation as Brand Ambassador and Blogger

April 24, 2016 / / 0 Comments

I cook a lot, and over the years have used many products and items. Frying pans, skillets, pots and pans, grills and grill tops, kettles and spatulas and bowls and blenders. Some were good, some not so good, and a few were not worth the space they took up in my kitchen. In the past year or so I’ve been approached by a few representatives wanting me to test some of their products, knives and cookware mostly. One name, however, intrigued me more than the others.

Chantal's Copper Fusion cookware set

Chantal’s Copper Fusion cookware set

That name  is Chantal, and I am now a brand ambassador for the company and blogging about its products and the people behind them. It’s based in Houston, Texas, was founded by Heida Thurlow in 1971 (I will be writing about her, because her story is enthralling), and makes some amazing things. Most of you know its iconic tea kettle, but there is so much more, including some excellent cookware made in Germany (and elsewhere) that I am using in my home kitchen and with The Brockhaus. I look forward to introducing you to Chantal, and helping you make some great dishes with its creations.

You can find the blog here; let me know what you think.

 

 

Olive oil, salt, radishes, and heat

The Brockhaus Returns For A Truffled Affair on May 7

April 16, 2016 / / 0 Comments
20150124_214446

Hands on the ribeye at The Second Coming

It’s complete, the Brockhaus menu for May 7. Hosted by Diane Roederer, the owner of  DR Delicacy, A Truffled Affair will commence at 7 o’clock with sparkling wine and conversation. We’ll present a menu inspired  by the season and the goodness brought to Houston by Diane.

****************************

The Brockhaus: A Truffled Affair

Uovo in Raviolo / Truffle

Butter-Poached Lobster / Truffle 

Gulf Red Snapper / Zucchini Agrodolce / Chilies / Mint

Morel Foie Gras Farci / Truffle / Demi Glace

Short Rib / Polenta / Truffle

Bacon Semifreddo / Pine Nut Tuile

($145 per person, including a wine paired with each course)

****************************

If you have been to a Brockhaus event (click here for a look at some of our evenings), you know there will be a surprise or two during the meal. It’ll be a seven-course tasting menu – therein the first surprise — and the talk around the table will be lively and engaging. You’ll meet some interesting people, and perhaps close the evening out with some new friends.

Space is limited; to reserve your seat, fill out the form below. We look forward to seeing you on May 7.

1619600_10152439317349895_2406058602657243384_n

Judy, Brockhaus CIO Angela, and co-host Caroline at The First Supper

 

 

 

A Busy Year: PaperCity Magazine, The Brockhaus Returns, and More

March 25, 2016 / / 1 Comment

In June of 2015 I accepted a position with PaperCity, a 21-year-old publication with offices in Houston and Dallas. It’s been busy since then … so busy that Mise en place and The Brockhaus have had to take a backseat to my duties at PaperCity. I hold the title of Features and Digital Editor, and I love the work. It’s introduced me to scores of interesting people doing great things (and that includes my colleagues), afforded me the opportunity to sit down with John Varvatos and Anthony Bourdain, among many other unique individuals, and is allowing me to tell some great stories about places and things I love.

282_e_1015-930x620

Tom Ford works on the set of “A Single Man.” (Courtesy Tom Ford)

I’ve asked Tom Ford about his life and loves and son, and I’ve shared some Balvenie with Anthony Bourdain. I’ve introduced readers to some good wines and dishes, and I’ve made some friends along the way. And there’s more, much more, to come.

181_e_0316

Anthony Bourdain relaxes in Les Halles in 2004. (Robert DiScalfani photo)

I‘m happy to announce that The Brockhaus will be back in action on May 7th; it’ll be a seven-course tasting menu, and will include provisions from DR Delicacy. Think chanterelles, morels, perhaps a bit of caviar. Diane Roederer, the owner of DR Delicacy, is hosting the dinner, and I look forward to working with her. I am putting the menu together now, and will be posting the details on Facebook soon. Mark your calendars and save the date.

Wine talk

The Brockhaus takes the Houston Heights, 2015.

Pork belly
Pork belly

The Brockhaus Takes The (Rainy) Houston Heights

June 7, 2015 / / 2 Comments

Prepping was well under way when the rains (and lightning and thunder) came, heavy and loud. The house – the creation of the minds of the hosts and their architect – was, save for the kitchen, quiet, orderly. The rooms, tastefully appointed, were full of framed photography (the owners are collectors), journeys for the mind and eye. It was the perfect environment in which to cook.

Working menu

Working menu

Except that as time marched on toward 7 p.m., when guests were asked to arrive, the rains persisted. The sommelier for the evening was phoning me from his car; the previous week’s flooding in Houston had him worried, so he decided to turn around and head home. Hoping the deluge would devolve into a shower, I called the guests, changed the cocktail time to 7:30, and hoped for the best.

FullSizeRender-3

Constance and I – now joined by Chris – were all in the kitchen, Chris working on Swiss chard and porcini, Constance putting the final touches on the snapper prep, and I taking care of the pork belly.  Chris and I have an unspoken ease in a kitchen, and the input and assistance from Constance, who attended the dinner with Alison (they of the beautiful Nantucket wedding), made the work perfect.

It was May 30, and this was the third Brockhaus dinner (fourth if  the wedding on Nanctucket is included), and despite the rains and the late start, it was a fine affair. Eight guests gathered around a table, seven courses, wines from the hosts’ cellar*, lively and often raucous conversation, smiles, laughter. Strangers at a table when the first course arrived, friends upon departure around midnight. I feel profound satisfaction when my food makes that happen. The guests included three former Brockhaus attendees, two of whom, Russ and Judy, have been at all three Houston events, (they have also hosted a Brockahus event at their home, and I consider them great patrons) and five first-timers. Here is what one guest wrote me a few days later:

“Brockhaus hit the trifecta … creatively prepared food that excited the senses;  expertly paired wines that complimented each course,  and engaging guests that would be envy of any dinner party.   James set a high bar with this delightful evening.”

The Brockhaus journey continues, and we hope to see you at a table soon.

*Wines served: Ivernel Brut Prestige NV,  Château de Montfort Vouvray 2011, Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard 2012 Carneros Chardonnay, Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard 2012, Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2006, Tenuta Fontodi Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 1996

(Slideshow created by Constance Brinkley-Badgett.)

 

 

 

 

Ribs Take Time, and a Snowy Evening Has Plenty of That

May 23, 2015 / / 0 Comments

 

IMG_5286

When I think of cooking beef short ribs my mind wanders back to New York, and cold nights spent indoors behind windows frosted with ice and snow. We would open a few bottles of wine – one for our glasses and one for the ribs – and chop some onions and carrots and celery while the ribs (usually eight of them) came to room temperature on a platter. After sprinkling them with generous amounts of salt and pepper I would brown the ribs in canola oil, a process I enjoy. I attempt to bring the same shade of color to each piece, to every side side of every rib. The scent that rises from the pan stimulates the senses, and the oil and fat left behind is the perfect medium for the vegetables. We removed the ribs from the pan, into which went the vegetables for five minutes or so, until the onions began to brown. If there was a can of tomato paste in the pantry I stirred a tablespoon or so of it into the vegetables, then added some flour (not much, perhaps two or three tablespoons).

IMG_5287

Next came the wine, the entire bottle – I normally had a case of Protocolo Tinto (Dominio de Eguren) on hand, which when poured into the vegetables caused the kitchen to change. It became a warmer, more comforting place. The ribs then joined the mix, and we made sure that all of the juices that had accumulated on the platter also made it into the pan. The heat was raised to a boil, then we simmered everything until the wine was reduced by half, at which time two bay leaves and some sprigs of  oregano, rosemary, and thyme took part, plus a head of garlic that had been cut in half. Hot beef stock, which surrounded the ribs, was the final touch.The oven, at 350°F, was where all of the magic took place. Into it went the covered pan – I used, and still use, a large French Dutch Oven – and we picked up our glasses and drank and let the heat and time do their work.

IMG_5290

Back in the kitchen the meat is falling off the bones, the sauce is rich and flavors infused. Do I strain the stock? Yes. The polenta is being stirred, and I take pieces of the meat from the bones. The favas are in a skillet, with garlic and butter and a bit of olive oil. The snow is falling on Henry Street and the night stretches before us still.

IMG_5291

 

 

James plates salmon tartare

Kitchen Zen (Provence, 1970)

May 18, 2015 / / 1 Comment
Olive oil, salt, radishes, and heat

Olive oil, salt, radishes, and heat

A blank canvas, a sheet of paper devoid of characters or symbols, an empty plate. All draw us to them, call out for completion, for satisfaction. I am forever filling plates and bowls, in my mind and at the countertop, and it is not uncommon that something I read or view forces me into the kitchen. I recently finished a book that inspired some cooking. It is titled  “Provence, 1970,” and it was written by M.F.K. Fisher’s grandnephew, Luke Barr. It’s a work of nonfiction that takes readers to France and puts them at the table with Julia and Paul Child, Richard Olney, Judith Jones, James Beard, and, certainly not least, Fisher, a writer for whom I have immense admiration and respect. I still want to find her home in Vevey and have a vermouth and gin on its terrace.

fiddleheads

The book tells the story of a year that saw the end of one grand era in American cuisine and cooking and the beginning of another. It is a fine read, and its pages bring to life conversations between Olney and Fisher, evenings spent at La Pitchoune, James Beard’s enormous personality. (It makes one feel that life is diminished now that those souls are no longer cooking and writing among us, but I say read it despite that.)

I’ve been cooking osso buco, and duck, and radishes, and chicken and watercress, and “Provence, 1970” has added to my kitchen repository, and some of its scenes have been translated onto my plates.  For many a year now a handful of special  people (including some in Barr’s book) have been in that hallowed room with me when I plan and plate and clean, and from now on a part of me will regret not being in that small part of Provence with those individuals during that pivotal year.

Time makes things perfect.

Time makes things perfect.

« Older posts Newer posts »

© 2024 Mise en Place

Theme by Anders Noren — Up ↑