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Harvey Changes Houston, Forever

Millions of people in the Houston area will never again think of water, or rain, in the way they did a little less than a week ago. No, Houston is not the only place to have experienced the horrors of a flood, but it is a place that has seen too much water in the past several years. The Tax Day Flood. The Memorial Day Flood. Now Harvey. Who in Houston will want to name their child Harvey after this? Water, necessary for life though it may be, means something else now.

Thirty dead so far … each a giant loss to their loved ones. That number will most assuredly rise, and each time it does, a part of humanity will fade away. I am thankful that so few lives have thus far been lost, but one lost in this way is one too many. An estimated 300,000 to 400,000 residences in the Houston area are flooded, deserted out of necessity. We’ve all seen the heartbreaking — yet life-affirming — scenes of stranger rescuing stranger, a hand extended from a boat floating on what a few days earlier was dry land. Rescuers from New York and Louisiana and Mississippi and, yes, Houston, all here on a mission of mercy. I lived in New York City when the Twin Towers fell, and the spontaneous outpouring of grief, coupled with determined action to save, nurture, heal, and recover, was a process I thought I’d never again witness. It was, more to the point, something I hoped never to have to see again. But life, as a wise man said, is something that happens to you while you’re making other plans.

Plans. Plans have changed. For everyone now in Houston, for the residents of this sprawling place and temporary visitors on their missions of mercy. A friend of mine, a high school classmate whom I’ve seen once since 1982, is here. She’s with the Red Cross. She’s on her mission, all the way from Hawaii, where she lives. Another classmate has spent the past six days driving around the region helping others, first by boarding up doors and windows before Harvey hit, then by offering the stranded rides to safety. Members of the Houston culinary world — and what a special world it is — have been busy cooking around the clock, using whatever they had in their walk-ins and kitchens to feed people in need. That’s not to mention the local police and fire personnel, the EMT professionals, the doctors and nurses and animal shelter personnel … the list goes on and on, all helping those in need. The heart swells.

There are so many in need, and that need will persist for a long while. This is not, as we know now, your average storm followed by flood conditions. This is epic, in the most profound sense of that word. Rain falling steadily for days, enough to fill more than 30,000 Empire State Buildings. Where Harvey came ashore, in Rockport, Texas, hundreds of buildings demolished by the hurricane’s Category 4 winds. Then, the swirling, maddening, deadly, and slow progress of the system. As if it had a mind, it hovered over the Houston area, slowing to a crawl, unloading its fury. Its fury was water.

Yes, water’s meaning has changed for millions after Harvey, and so has the meaning of Houston. Those who live here, and many others across the nation, will never again think of Houston in the way they once did. Things have changed, forever, many for the worse. Lives shattered, families torn apart, beloved pets lost, lying lifeless or looking for their owners, homes in which children were raised ruined by water … all losses that speak with awful profundity of life’s vicissitudes.

But then. But then … there’s the better, the inexplicable and miraculous better. The magnificent power and fury of the human heart and spirit to act, to do something, to help, to soothe. That’s what Houston is showing the world now, as NYC did after 9/11. It’s Mattress Mack. It’s Houston Police Chief Art Acevedo. It’s Ronnie Killen donating $50,000 to help, feeding thousands for free. It’s the individuals risking their lives to save the others. It’s all of us, and we’ll never be the same.

No, the same is gone. Instead, we’ll be better. We’ll have to be, all of us — politicians, spiritual leaders, you, me, everyone — because the work to be done is monumental.

A Wine Library Evening: The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s

The Brockhaus is gearing up for a fall and winter full of inventive dishes and wines, and to kick off the season we’re excited to announce The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s, a seven-course dégustation set for September 25th. Tony’s is one of the finest restaurants around, and The Brockhaus is honored to be part of its 53-year ongoing story of excellence.

The Wine Library at Tony’s will be the stage for the evening; it’s an intimate and warm space, perfect for a leisurely and stimulating meal full of scintillating conversation. Click on the link below for the menu.

The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s

The Wine Library at Tony’s (Nick de la Torre)

Here’s what one of our guests wrote about his experience at The Brockhaus:

Thank you for an absolutely fantastic evening. The food was off the charts. We were amazed at the multiple layers of taste in each dish. I know you put a tremendous amount of work into the prep and cooking of the meal … it was apparent in the taste. We also enjoyed the company of your guests. It was a most engaging evening of conversation.

Another wrote: Such an exciting night to share with so many great dinner companions. I can’t stop thinking about the incredible menu.

Click here for more about The Brockhaus, and we hope to see you on the 25th.

What: The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s
When: Monday, September 25
Tariff: $175
For details, and to reserve a seat: The_Brockhaus (at) iCloud.com

 

A Frittata For Emma: Cooking This Will Make You Happy (Plus, Wine, Music, and Foie Gras)

Buddy and Emma (far right) Sullivan, with Maruja and Pepita in the 1950s.

Brooklyn Heights, 2004. That’s the year I met Emma Sullivan and her cousins Maruja and Pepita. Emma owned The Long Island Restaurant, one door down from our apartment on Atlantic Avenue. I was in the restaurant often. It was (and still is) a beautiful time-capsule of a place, booths and wooden bar, photographs of Buddy — Emma’s late husband — and other family members behind the bar, a manual cash register that made me smile when Emma opened it. The sound was comforting. It was a warm and gentle room.

Emma closed up shop in 2007; she and Buddy had taken it over in 1956. Hers was a 51-year run of countless conversations and days and nights making guests feel at home. I miss walking into her restaurant, and probably always will. (The space was reopened in 2013, after Emma leased it to a pair of worthy guys. Next time you are in Brooklyn, pay them a visit.)

I wrote this week about Emma and her cousins and The Long Island Restaurant for PaperCity magazine, and included a frittata recipe based on that special woman and her cousins. You might like to make the dish one morning, or night. Think of Emma — or someone whose life is special to you — when you do.

Like good music and wine, plus some tasty crab cakes? If so, and you find yourself in Missouri City, Texas, check out B’s Wine Bar. Angela and I were there last night, and the band was hot, the crowd stylish and fun, and the staff welcoming and obviously excited about their work.

Drink some wine here in Missouri City, Texas. (Courtesy D-Mars.com)

Angela and I were seated in the wine room, just the two of us at a quaint table, the kind one finds in parks in Paris. We talked and drank and laughed and found a place new to us to which we’ll return. (Thanks for the recommendation, Kennady.)

How’s this for a transition: I love foie gras. I’ve eaten it in Spain, in Dubai, in Paris, in New York, in Italy, in New Delhi, and, most recently, last week in Houston. It’s from Hudson Valley Foie Gras, and it’s prepared in a wonderful way. Take a look at this:

That’s Foie Gras alla Fiamma, newly added to the tasting menu at Tony’s, and it’s good. Order it and savor the preparation process. There’s Moscato and a vanilla bean and a grape, and it’s served with toasted farro. Sensual, delicious, decadent.

Restaurant Weeks NYC and Houston, and Chicken Paprikash: Summer Is Winding Down

New York City, 1995. I had arrived a few months earlier to begin a new job with a newspaper, and was visiting restaurants and bars that had been on my list for a long while. Sign of the Dove. La Grenouille. Elaine’s. Le Veau d’Or. McSorley’s. So many more, some long gone, others still thriving, pleasing guests night after night, attracting people from around the world to the streets and avenues of New York. That summer, I participated in NYC Restaurant Week; we made a few reservations at select places, and had (mostly) good experiences. It was a pleasure to sit and watch out-of-towners eat — I had already become a New Yorker, at least in my heart and mentality — and it felt good. The tables were ours. The latest version of NYC Restaurant Week runs through August 18, giving you 12 more days to pay $29 for lunch or $42 for dinner at places including Porsena, Hearth, Lupa, and ABC Kitchen. If you can, go.

La Grenouille, around since 1962.

Houston Restaurant Weeks (HRW) is also upon us, and it features 277 establishments giving a portion of their proceeds from special menus ($45 dinner, $20 lunch, with some exceptions) to the Houston Food Bank to help feed the hungry. I’ve tasted from some of the offerings, and will surely get to more, and encourage everyone to make some reservations. Go to a place you might not otherwise. Hunger is no laughing matter, and Houston is full of people who don’t know where their next meal will come from. Do some good, have some fun, and tip well.

Want some suggestions for HRW? Amalfi Ristorante Italiano & Bar and Sud Italia are home to some good pasta and proteins, and a visit to Ginger & Fork will introduce you to mushrooms and rice noodles that are not to be missed.

When you’re out and about during HRW, you’ll be wanting some wine to pair with your meals. Why not make it a full evening and have a glass of Rosé as an apéritif? Stoller Family Estate has produced one that I like (click here to read about it), but the Pink Universe is large, so you’ll have no difficulties choosing a good bottle. In addition, many of the restaurants participating in HRW have selected wines they think pair well with their menus, an easy opportunity for you to taste something new.

Tomatoes and Wagyu done well

Speaking of new, a dish was added to the menu at Tony’s last week, and it’s something you’ll want. The Carpaccio di Pomodoro is tomato and Wagyu heaven, and I featured it in a piece for PaperCity on my (current) Dream Team of dishes in Houston. You can read about it here. (There’s also some great tacos and pasta on my team.)

 

For those of you wanting a hearty meal at home, I offer Chicken Paprikash. I cooked it on Sunday, and based it on the recipe featured by Sam Sifton in The Times. Use a combination of sweet and hot smoked paprika, and make sure to go with bone-in chicken. Cooking it is simple — you’ll have to brown the chicken in a Dutch oven for a few minutes — and when the smokiness of the paprika meets the sour cream, your evening will be set. Pair your Paprikash with a bottle of this Pinot Noir and a salad of mixed greens, and the picture is complete.

We Drank Canned Wine, Tried Doughnut Sliders, Opened a Chardonnay … and What Fine Pastas

You go from table to table, hoping for memorable tastes and flavors, food prepared well, made with thought and care. There’s something edifying about the act of finding it, sharing it with others, appreciating it. You’ve learned to deal with the moments when the taste and flavors do not deliver, when shrimp is overcooked and enchiladas taste like sawdust and not much more, when this food writer or that restaurant reviewer lauds the cuisine of the latest farm-to-table restaurant or poke mecca and you wait a month to try it and find it lackluster at best. Taste is subjective, after all, isn’t it? One man’s bland bowl of borscht is another’s Proustian interlude, no? Those disappointing meals serve to whet your appetite for the next pleasurable repast, as vexing as they might be.

Recently, the good moments have come with satisfying regularity, the pastas done well, the branzino pleasing, the (yes) spicy tofu all that tofu can and should be. You looked on and listened as your friend (and Brockhaus sous chef) Chris savored the rigatoni bianco Bolognese you knew he would love, his sighs audible. Yes, it’s been a good week or two at the table in Houston, days that included a brunch at Tony Mandola’s Gulf Coast Kitchen that featured doughnut sliders that were just what I needed at the time, though I was unaware of the need before I tasted them. (Click here for a look.) The sweet and savory plate is a grand antidote to a night of celebration.

To that Bolognese, which has been my favorite pasta in Houston for a few months now. It’s at Tony’s, and if you have not tried it, you are missing something you shouldn’t.

I have a feeling that Marcella Hazan would have loved this. It’s rigatoni with a Bolognese bianco sauce.

I was hooked the first time I tried this dish; it’s complex, speaks of hours in the pot, the simmering and melding of the meat and vegetables and breaking down of the parts into a whole that transports. Each ingredient retains its place of pride — look at the carrots, their shape exact and right — but the technique that goes into making this course creates a tour de force of rich and subtle flavors, something full of rustic gusto and refined grace. Appreciate the saltiness of the cheese and the acidity of the olive oil. If all goes well, you’ll have this more than once.

Wine was also fine during these days and nights, and we even enjoyed some in cans. An unoaked Chardonnay and a red blend (Zinfandel, Syrah, and Merlot) from Ron Rubin Winery did us good, and we paired a Chardonnay from Mitsuko’s Vineyard with chèvre and bread.  (Ray Isle recently tasted some canned wines as well, and his review of them is a good read.)

If you can find a bottle of this, open it and drink.

During a dinner at the home of Russ and Judy Labrasca, Angela and I were treated to a 1997 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon, and a ’96 from Saddleback, the latter a lovely bottle, mellowed into a dream, the former drinking well though expressing charms of a more typical manner. Russ and Judy are a couple — Angela met them when she worked in Dallas, and introduced them to me not long after I arrived in Houston — I consider myself honored to know, friends without parallel. We drank those wines with hamburgers and Judy’s customary spread, and it was good.

With friends like these, one needs nothing more.

Houston Restaurant Weeks is upon us, the annual event that has done so much good for so many people in need of a square meal since it was founded, back in 2003. I sampled a few HRW menus this week, and came across another worthy pasta and a branzino of note, both on the menu at Amalfi Ristorante Italiano & Bar. The pasta, a tortelli, is filled with Asiago, potatoes, and pancetta, and served with beef short ribs. Tender, al dente pasta, top-notch cheese and pancetta, and, OK, the short rib is wonderful. The sea bass, my favorite item on Amalfi’s HRW menu, is accompanied by potato gnocchi, roasted artichoke, and a lemon cream sauce. Sea, lemon, olive oil, gnocchi … try these, and donate $7 to the Houston Food Bank in the process.

Let’s see what comes next …

Two Chickens, Malibu Coast AVA, Some Hot-Smoked Salmon, and Stock and Soup

The hills were rolling, the mountains captivating, all a transfixing and calming mixture of greens and browns. The drive from Los Angeles to Malibu was a magical journey, the light bouncing off the Pacific Ocean illuminating all. The air was buoyant, the mood light. We lunched al fresco at Malibu Kitchen & Gourmet Country Market, then were on our way to a vineyard, a small plot of Chardonnay planted by Elliott and Lynn Dolin in 2006 on a sloping hill perched high above the ocean. The afternoon was warm, the wine and conversation flowed, and our Central Coast sojourn had begun well.

The Dolins are making Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Rosé, and lead (and have led) interesting lives. Over dinner, I spoke with Elliott about Jack Clement, Ray Price, Willie Nelson, and wine. You can read about the couple — and see some photos of their lovingly restored Spanish Colonial Revival home — by clicking here. (Our California trip continued in Santa Barbara and environs, more about which later.)

Like Salmon? It’s a popular fish, of course, in many ways too popular — if you have not read “Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food” you need to — and the farming of it has gotten out of hand. Watch this:

I endeavor at all times to eat only wild salmon, and recently tasted some very fine Sockeye, hot-smoked at Houston’s Ibiza and served with crème fraîche carrying the wonderful flavors of orange and dill. On top, caviar. Delicate and rich, this dish is perfect with a glass of Cava. Here’s my take on the rest of the meal at the restaurant (hint: order a Campari and Soda to begin your meal there). Charles Clark has been in the kitchen at Ibiza for a long time now, and his experience and passion show.

From salmon to chicken, specifically two hens I made last week. One I roasted (garlic slivers under the skin, lemon and onion in the cavity) the other I poached in milk.

Sockeye, hot-smoked

Both tender, both full of flavor. We served then with a simple salad, and I made a soup from leftovers, enriched by a homemade stock. Don’t throw away those carcasses and scraps and offal … instead, save everything and spend a few hours creating something earthy and honest. (Click here for a recipe/method from Jacques Pépin.)

A stock begins …

The soup: onions, celery, carrot, olive oil, stock, and shredded chicken meat, plus heavy cream, cilantro, and basil. Crusty bread, a green salad, and a Chenin Blanc completed the picture.

Vegetables, chicken, and cream: a fine trio.

A Wine (Pinot Noir) For the Fourth of July

Oh, Pinot Noir, you can be so vexing. Or perhaps I should restate it this way: Oh, makers of Pinot Noir, some of you can be so vexing. The popularity of the varietal makes for some bad examples. We don’t need any more bad wine. We don’t need overly fruity, sweet Pinot Noir. We need more elegant, complex Pinot Noir. It’s a particular grape, and needs care, not mass production.

Now I write the above with full knowledge and recognition that some people like the type of Pinot Noir that I don’t, and that’s fine. I’m not a wine snob, and I don’t get a kick out of dropping names. I drink what I like, and you should, too. But I do recommend against limiting your palate.

A week or so ago I opened a Pinot Noir that I appreciated, and you can read about it here. If you are persuaded to try it, write and let me know what you think.

The Fourth of July is around the corner, and the menus are being planned. We’ll be doing a pork shoulder low and slow with wood and charcoal … and will have pulled pork sandwiches for the holiday. Along with Craig Claiborne’s baked beans, German potato salad, and a watermelon salad. Click this link for the watermelon salad recipe.

Todd and absinthe in Prague

You need la fée verte …

Wines? Oh, there’ll be a Riesling in a the mix, and some cava, as well. A Pinot Noir is not out of the question, and a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon has been promised by one young woman who will be at the party. I imagine Todd will be making a fine cocktail or two, and we might even be treated to some absinthe.

I’d be remiss if I did not mention a certain Fußball tournament going on right now in Russia. It’s the 2017 Confederations Cup, and Die Mannschaft plays on Sunday in the final against Chile. It kicks off at 2 p.m. EST, so turn the match on and enjoy. (Yesterday, the German U21 team beat Spain in the final of the U21 European Championships, in Poland. Deutschland über alles.)

However you choose to celebrate, relish the long weekend, hug your friends and family, and share your table with people you love.

‘If They Want To Drink Merlot, We’re Drinking Merlot!’

I know what I like, of course, and one of the things I like is the wonderfully gigantic variety of wines that exist in this world. From Albariño to Dornfelder, Riesling to Rkatsiteli, and Xynomavro to Godello, exploring the wine universe is a pleasure and an adventure. I’ve said before that one should never bring hard and fast preconceptions or prejudices to a tasting, dinner, or wine merchant. Try. Sample. Taste. Don’t like white wine? That is, frankly, nonsense. Sure, we all have our favorites, the stuff we go back to again and again and put in our inventories and Eurocaves or closets. But if you don’t color outside the lines, you’re depriving yourself of a lot of life.

Which brings me to Merlot, and a wine I tasted recently. It’s the 2013 Merlot from Swanson Vineyards, and I loved it. So did a woman with whom I shared it, a woman who had told me on more than one occasion that she did not care for Merlot.

You can read my take (and hers) on the Swanson Vineyards Merlot by clicking here.

And if you want more wine, check out these pieces:

French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life

Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Of Duck, Brisket Tacos, and a Good Sauvignon Blanc (Plus a Fine Bartender Makes a Good Cocktail)

I like duck. I like to eat it, and I like to cook it. I like to confit it. I love the legs and the breast. I love it all — duck feet and beaks in Hong Kong as well. (During one of my residences in Paris, the grocery store near my apartment sold a wonderful confit de canard in the refrigerated section, two pieces for, as I recollect, five or so euros. Ahh, we’ll always have Paris … )

A week or so ago, I had a very good plate of duck confit in Houston, at Toulouse, a restaurant whose Dallas location (the original one in the two-location mini-chain) was once one of Angela’s favorites. Here’s my take on that duck, and the rest of the meal. The lentils were excellent, by the way.

You like tacos? Yes, don’t we all. Texas is home to its fair share of them, and you would have to eat at a different place daily for years to get to all of them. A new restaurant in Houston is serving a great brisket taco at the moment, and I ordered it last week. I recommend you try one or several. Read about it and see it here.

Now to some wine. I not long ago opened a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, a 2016 Sauvignon Blanc from Ehlers Estate, and was, in a word, refreshed. It was clean and crisp, it was balanced impeccably, and it was oh so good with the chicken I had cooked. So good it was that I’m going to open another bottle this weekend. Read about it here.

Finally, as I write this, it’s cocktail time. A good bartender I know, who works at one of my favorite restaurants in Houston, this week accepted the challenge of creating a cocktail that included Ancho Reyes Verde, a rather spicy liqueur made of poblano chilis. She did quite well, and if you want to watch her make it, see this.

Eat well, and with people you love.

Take A Culinary Journey Along The Tropic of Cancer Without Leaving Houston

Travel does wonders for the soul. You wake up in one city, and go to bed that evening in another locale halfway across the world, in a completely different environment, surrounded by new sounds, scents, people. You walk down alleys and streets, beaches or trails, and you take it all in, the tastes and sights and the emotions. You sit at foreign tables and allow the days and nights to wash over you, luxuriating in the commonplace, the slower unfolding of your life. Unfortunately, most people find it impossible to get away as often as they want … but there are sometimes others ways.

I recently traveled to Baja, Mexico, and tasted the foods of that beautiful area, all without leaving Houston. Angela and I dined at SaltAir Seafood Kitchen, and it was good. You can read all about it here. (And you’re in luck, because Brandi Key’s Tropic of Cancer Series continues through July 1 … get your ticket to India, China, Hawaii, and Cuba, and eat well.)

 

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