I’m in Kaiserslautern, in one of my homes away from home. I lived in this city – which is nestled in the Rheinland-Pfalz, not so far from the French border – during my high school days, and the place and the people here have had a profound influence on my life. It was where I first learned to appreciate beer and wine; it’s where I continued my Fussball education and romance, playing for my Department of Defense high school and a German club.
Champions of Europe, the Red Raiders of KAHS (Photo courtesy of Frank Williamson)
It’s also where I began to expand my culinary horizons beyond the foods of the U.S., learning about a new cuisine and spending time in German kitchens. I tasted my first Saumagen here, and my first Frikadelle, having wandered past a cart selling them on the way up to the Betzenberg.
The hill of dreams
I had read “The Great Gatsby” before we moved to Germany, but it was in Kaiserslautern that I became a serious reader, through Fitzgerald and wine. My parents and sisters were traveling in the U.S., and I was home alone, so I bought a few bottles of wine and began reading the man from St. Paul, from his first words to his final, unfinished, novel. I am sure there was a Riesling or two in the mix, and I clearly recall an Italian red. (To this day, whenever I taste a great dry Riesling, especially one from the Pfalz, I think of this line of Fitzgerald’s: “I’ve been drunk for about a week now, and I thought it might sober me up to sit in a library.”)
Books and wine
While in Kaiserslautern, I am a guest in the home of a friend I first met in 1980, Holger Westing. He and his wife, Gudrun, have two sons, Tim and Max, and I am enjoying catching up with all of them. (Holger was my teammate at TSG Kaiserslautern, my German club. He was a very good footballer, and went on to play for 1. FC Kaiserslautern’s amateur squad.) We’ve had a light snowfall, the January days and nights are cold and comforting, and the soup is on.
A great friend, for decades thus far: Holger Westing
Gudrun Westing, a friend for the ages
Of course, it always comes back to the food, wherever I find myself. Food and wine. I was in Germany last year as well, and tasted (and drank) a lot of Rieslings. Holger loves wine, and he and I spent a couple of days driving through the Pfalz and Baden, stopping at as many wineries as possible. Angela and I spent some time in the region as well in the autumn of last year, and I was happy to be able introduce her to the wines and cuisine of the area.
In the Pfalz: My favorite dining companion
We go to the market on Saturdays, for horse sausage and Bollburgers and vegetables and Frikadellen. We enjoy the slow days, the unblemished carpet of snow, the comforting beginning of a new year. It is a fine thing to cook in a kitchen in the home of a friend, a friend of more than 30 years, in a part of the world that has been bred in my bones and continues to teach me so much.
Horse, and good it is
Snow on the market vegetables
A fine breakfast: the Bollburger
Looking back, I think it was highly appropriate that my father was transferred to Germany, and to the Rheinland-Pfalz … great wines, great Fussball (I must state that my team, 1. FC Kaiserslautern, was much better back in those days), beautiful land and soil, and oh so close to Paris and Bavaria. And, most dear to me, some of the best people I have ever met. I’ll be back here, again and again.
Welcome home, wherever you find yourself.
James- lovely tribute to the Pfalz and your days there. I’m a bit envious, but more happy for you that you’re there now. Cath
What a beautiful journey.
Who says you can’t go back?
Such a lovely tribute. It stirs up a lot of great memories and makes me homesick, too. Enjoy the hell out of it, many of wish we could be there with you. Prost!
Thanks for sharing.
Well done! Thanks!
hey Jim – when will be back in the US? call me when you get there on my cell.
James, what a great post! Made me hungry, thirsty and nostalgic. Thank you for sharing! Hope you have a wonderful visit.
Great article. I didn’t even know we had a friend in common, Holger Westing! My hubsband is the med. assistant for the TSG Kaiserslautern’s Adult Team and my son played for 10 years in the youth team of the TSG until he switched to FK Pirmasens last year. Would love to see you if your still around in Kaiserslautern!! Heidi
Hi, Heidi, great to hear from you. I will be here through next week … get in touch with me.
I enjoyed your article Jamie! Yes, a true time in ours lives that is unforgettable!