There is a (fairly) new menu at Tony’s, one of Houston’s restaurant-world mainstays. Crudi, to be exact. On it, you will find octopus, tuna, and Hamachi, paired with avocado or caviar or charred cucumber. And salmon.
Ōra King Salmon is there, too. And it’s what you should try today if you find yourself in Houston. The majestic fish is marinated in blood orange and Thai chili, and crisp farro adds texture. Then the fresh basil hits your palate and the dish is complete, and fresh and bright.
Crudo is Italian for “raw.” Pesce crudo is what you have here, and don’t confuse it with sashimi, as chef Victor LaPlanca told Food Republic. (LaPlanca was executive chef at Isola at the time.)
“Compared to sashimi, which I believe is really about appreciating the purity of masterfully sliced fish, crudo is very ingredient-driven. The oil used can dramatically alter the dish’s flavor profile,” says LaPlanca. “At Isola, we use cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil from Sicily. Because part of the beauty in crudo is its simplicity in preparation, the quality of the ingredients really matter. In order to understand how the different nuances of the oil affect the fish, try experimenting with various nut or even truffle oils to see how the dish’s flavor profile evolves.”
Austin Waiter, the executive chef at Tony’s, respects pesce, and knows how to combine olive oil and citrus and herbs for maximum effect on his crudi menu. The salmon in this dish is in no way overwhelmed by the accompanying ingredients; in fact, every individual component here shines on its own and plays well with its mates. Pair this with a glass of Malvasia Bianca — specifically, Onward’s Pétillant Naturel from Suisun Valley — and your meal will begin well.
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