Category: wine (Page 1 of 8)

Wine Talk: A Son of Texas Sees His Future in Calistoga

December 4, 2024 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and winemakers, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot. In Wine Talk, I introduce you to some of my friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste.

You’ll appreciate their insights, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well.

Wine and family: I love those two words. They make my mind wander to Germany, where I first began learning about and drinking wine (Riesling, natürlich); I moved there when my father, who was in the U.S. Air Force, was assigned to Europe. My time spent there made me, in large part, who I am today. Those words also bring forth memories of visiting wineries and meeting the families who founded them and put their energy and love into their land and bottles. One is lucky indeed if family and wine are there for you.

I met a family recently, a wine family, one that hails from Austin and now owns a prime piece of property in Calistoga, California, 10.5 acres once known as the Dutch Henry Winery. The Glass Fire devastated most of the estate’s infrastructure, but its cave was spared. And this family, the Epprights, have big plans for the property. Enter Parable Wines.

First, a brief introduction: Fred Eppright, the owner of a commercial real estate firm based in Austin, has a son named Trey, who took his first sip of wine in 1999 or 2000, aged 15 (he was allowed one sip only). Trey later began to immerse himself in all things wine, especially Wine Library TV, and in 2013, after traveling and tasting and learning, decided to establish a career in wine. Trey, who graduated from Texas A&M, spent some time in Oregon in 2020 working for a friend who ran a farm that supplied produce to local restaurants; he liked the work, getting his hands into the soil and growing things, practices that put him in good stead when he convinced his father that buying a property and making wine was a great idea.

In 2021, the Epprights – Fred and his wife, Paula, and Trey and brother Matt – purchased the Calistoga property that was formerly occupied by the Dutch Henry Winery, and that’s where the big plans really took off.

The Parable team. From left, Kale Anderson, Fred Eppright, Paula Eppright, Matt Eppright, Trey Eppright, and Brian Kelleher, Parable’s general manager.

Of the 10.5 acres on the Parable estate, 2.4 originally hosted Syrah; they are now planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Epprights, with winemaker Kale Anderson, hope to bottle their first estate vintage in 2025 or 2026. To commence the Parable journey, Trey and Kale began sourcing fruit from other locales, including the Vangone Vineyard, the Ritchie Vineyard, and the Beckstoffer Bourn Vineyard. In addition, Parable has signed a five-year sourcing contract with Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard and plans to produce a Cabernet Sauvignon with that famed and expensive fruit; the 2024 vintage will be released in 2027.

If you want to purchase Parable’s current offerings, which include a 2021 Beckstoffer Bourn Cabernet Sauvignon, a ’21 Vangone Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2022 Chardonnays from Ritchie Vineyard and Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard, check out this section of the winery’s site. The Parable team is using a custom crush facility to produce its wines, but plans to move all production onto the property and will also use the 4,400-square-foot cave.

Let’s see what Trey has to say in Wine Talk:

James Brock: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each?

Trey Eppright: The 2021 Parable Vangone Cabernet Sauvignon ($225) is drinking beautifully now. It’s a classic Atlas Peak Cab. I would have it with barbecued pork ribs and beef brisket (and not just because I’m from Texas).

The 2021 Parable Vangone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2022 Parable Ritchie Creek Chardonnay ($90) from the Russian River is just beautiful. It was fermented in a concrete egg, instead of an oak barrel, which gives it wonderful complexity. I’d have the Ritchie with raw oysters and/or a flaky white fish with lemon butter sauce.

The 2022 Parable Wines Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay. — The 2022 Parable Ritchie Creek Chardonnay.

The third wine, which I had recently and is drinking fabulously, is the 2012 Maya Dalla Valle Red Blend. It’s a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a perfect wine made in some of the most special soils, and has everything you’d want in a wine. Funnily enough, I had it with pork and beef tacos. (Editor’s note: Not many bottles of this vintage are on the market, but a quick search found a few going for around $450; JJ Buckley is selling the 2020 vintage for $599.)

Trey Eppright, managing partner at Parable Wines.

JB: How did COVID-19 change your life, both personally and professionally?

TE: Because of Covid, I ended up with a winery in Napa Valley. My life couldn’t have changed much more if it wasn’t for Covid. During the pandemic I moved to Oregon and got into farming; and then to California, where my family and I bought a winery, which turned out to be Parable. Otherwise, I would have stayed in Austin, where I grew up, where I would’ve tried to figure out my life. Covid helped me figure a lot out.

JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why.

TE: DRC (Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) Échezeaux Grand Cru. I paid $2,000. Which was 30 percent below market. I said, “I guess I have to.” La Tache (DRC) and Salon (Cuvee ‘S’ Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut) Champagne would be great, too. It’s a toss-up. There are too many good wines.

JB: What is your favorite grape, and why? If you don’t have a single favorite, tell me about one that you are especially passionate about.

TE: I don’t have a favorite. That would be real boring. But if you forced me, it would be Syrah. I’m also super passionate about Chardonnay. But Syrah is very versatile. It shows terroir very well. It really has a good sense of place, and it’s a fun grape to work with. As a winemaker, your input means a lot. And Chardonnay is interesting because it produces Champagne and still wine.

JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day?

TE: The 2018 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon from the MacDonald brother’s section of To Kalon Vineyard. It has so much power, so much energy. But it needs a 12-hour decant. As far as vineyards in Napa Valley, it’s an amazing, perfect wine, but it still needs 10 years in the bottle. (Editor’s note: Angry Wine Merchant is selling this vintage for $1,095. This wine will age wonderfully for decades.)

JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle (outside your home and workplace)?

TE: V Wine Cellars in Yountville. It’s a special wine bar. It has couches, and the selection is great. Anything you can dream of, they’ve got it. Good Chardonnays and Champagnes. And on Fridays there’s a very good chance, after 2 pm, if you want to meet a vintner or a winemaker, this is the place.

JB: If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?

TE: Enjoy it. Just fuckin’ enjoy it. I think sometimes we all take wine too seriously. Enjoy it and share it. Take a second to appreciate it. Close your eyes on that first sip.

JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?

TE: The first sip of wine I’d ever had changed my direction in life. It was the ’93 Dom Perignon Champagne, in 1999 or 2000. It was that whole thing: a lawyer had won a big case and brought it to this place. There was Dom stuffed into a commercial icemaker. I was only allowed to have one glass, but … I was 15.

JB: What has been the strangest moment/incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?

TE: I shared a bottle of ’82 Salon with Lady Gaga’s bandleader, Brian Newman, in Las Vegas. He was doing a performance after a Gaga show, and the next day I was seated next to him at brunch. I handed a glass of the Salon to him. And we became friends, playing blackjack and sharing a joint.

The entrance to the cave at Parable Wines.

JB: Your favorite wine reference in a work of literature (fiction, film, poem, etc.)?

“Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life’s most civilized pleasures.” – Michael Broadbent, British wine critic/wine writer.

That saying simply states one of my favorite pastimes and something I get to do often.

Want more Wine Talk and related stories? Read on:

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Nick Goldschmidt and His Family Affair
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Caitlin Cutler Really Likes Malvasia
Dan Petroski on Soil and J. Alfred Prufrock
A Canadian Makes Good in Mendocino
Bouchaine’s Chris Kajani Tackles the Challenges of a Pandemic
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Nate Klostermann is Making Some Great Sparkling Wines in Oregon
Matt Dees and the Electric Acidity of Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay
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Michael Kennedy Talks Sailing and Zinfandel
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Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
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From France to New Mexico: Wines for the Holiday Season, Part One

December 2, 2024 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

The period between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day is already more than hectic, so why complicate your life with things that aren’t worth the stress? You take care of the reservations, the gift selections, the booking of flights and lodging, and the seating charts for your holiday dinners, and leave the wines to me. What follows is a subjective list of bottles I’ve tasted, paired with foods, and shared with friends during tasting sessions and at the table with meals. Some of these selections might be more difficult to find than others, but the internet is rich with sources, so happy hunting.

One request: When and where possible, please purchase your wines directly from the source, meaning the producer/winery. Many producers, especially the smaller ones, need the business. If that is inconvenient for you, your local independent wine merchant is the way to go. As always, if you can’t find the specific vintage I sampled, these wines, with perhaps no exception, will serve you well no matter the year the fruit in the bottle was harvested.

Bubbles should begin all of your gatherings, and I offer a number of bottles here that will satisfy any occasion. First up, how about a vintage Champagne? The 2012 Cuvée Louis Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs is a delicious marvel. It’s named for the brother of Elisabeth Salmon, who married Nicolas François Billecart and with him founded Maison Billecart-Salmon in 1818. Louis was mad about wine and heavily involved in making Champagne for the storied house, which is today owned and run by Mathieu Roland-Billecart, the seventh generation of the family.

Serve this 2012 Billecart-Salmon with seafood. — *Serve the 2012 Billecart-Salmon with seafood.*

The 2012 Louis Salmon Cuvée is elegant, delicate yet bold, and abundantly self-assured. Soft gold in color, the fruit (100 percent Chardonnay) for this vintage comes from the grand crus of the Côte des Blancs: 60 percent Mesnil-sur-Oger, 23 percent Cramant, 11 percent Chouilly, and 6 percent Oiry. Citrus and pear aromas deftly shone in my sampling, and this wine offers the palate sublime citrus, pineapple, and baked apple, along with a chalky minerality that rewards savoring. The 2012 was aged for more than 10 years on the lees, and dosed at 3.9 percent. The patient and demanding Billecart-Salmon approach and care shine in this wine, which you and your guests should find enthralling. Look for it at around $200. As for pairings, I admire that the Champagne house recommends a “casserole of whole calf sweetbread from Corrèze,” but procuring that dish on this side of the pond will take some effort. Oysters are always correct, and caviar is never wrong.

Laurent Gruet, partner and sparkling winemaker at Vara Winery. (Courtesy of Vara Winery)

New Mexico, here we come, as our second sparkling selection hails from that state. It’s a methode champenoise bottling from Vara Winery & Distillery, which is based in Albuquerque. I’d serve this wine ($27 SRP) with oysters on the half shell or a smoked salmon canapé, both excellent choices for kicking off a dinner party. It’s 72 percent Chenin Blanc, 18 percent Listán Prieto, and 10 percent Pinot Meunier; jasmine and lemon notes caress the nose, and a sip brings apple and hazelnut (almond ventured forth on a second tasting). Fine bubbles that persist increase the sensuality of this wine.

I tasted our next sparkling wine last week. It’s a Moscato d’Asti DOCG from Vignaioli di Santo Stefano, the 2023 vintage, and if you want to serve a dessert wine that keeps people at the table with a surprise – what, no Sauternes? – this $24 bottle is for you. Fruit is harvested by hand, and the result is a remarkable creation whose sweetness is balanced by superb acidity. Serve very cold.

*A Willamette Valley sparkling from Abbey Road Farm is perfect with a mushroom tart.*

Now to Oregon, and a festive rosé sparkling from Abbey Road Farm. It’s 100 percent Pinot Meunier, and the vibrant color of this wine makes me smile. Blair Trathen is the winemaker behind this bottle, and he’s created something that is lively and easy to drink. If you like lambrusco, try this $34 bottle. You get red fruit flavors along with an effervescence that provides a distinct and lasting finish. Pair with a mushroom and cheese tart. Abbey Road also makes a fine little carbonic Gamay Noir, so look for that one as well. (I’ll have more Willamette Valley wines for your consideration in upcoming articles, so stay tuned.)

*The 2022 PassioneSentimento Bianco Veneto IGT from Pasqua will set you back all of $18.*

Let’s turn to Garganega for our first white selection, a grape that might not be on the tip of your tongue, despite it being in the 6th position on the list of Italy’s most widely grown grapes. However, it is one that often rewards via its price-to-quality ratio. The 2022 PassioneSentimento Bianco Veneto IGT from Pasqua will cost you $18, and for that price you might as well get a case and serve it with exuberant abandon this holiday season. Bright citrus and lemongrass aromas lead to tart apple in the mouth. Refreshing to drink on its own, and I served it with a goat cheese galette and loved the combination.

How about a Chardonnay? It’s a tried-and-true choice, and there are any number of reasons the grape is consumed in the quantities it is – I’ll leave the buttery/oaky/unoaked debate for another day, or year, though I do think less oaky wines pair better with holiday fare, and a bottle I sampled recently takes its place on my list of “chardonnays to drink often.” Te Mata Estate, which produces the acclaimed Coleraine, is the source of one of the best chardonnays I’ve had this year. It’s a Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand wine, dry and plush and earthy. Golden white in the glass, a whiff of the Te Mata Estate Vineyards Chardonnay gives you lemony notes and subtle oak, then the palate is treated to white flower and pineapple. Firm, confident finish. I’ve not found a Chardonnay for $24 that I like more. This would be great with a butternut squash tart.

A Napa chardonnay that made history. — *A Napa Chardonnay that made history.*

On we go, and Napa is the next stop. Chateau Montelena is the exact destination, and the 2017 Chardonnay is on the table. I sampled it and the 2022 vintage recently, and while both are singing with aplomb, I chose the ’17 to include on my list this year for reasons that are completely subjective. (By all means, buy the 2022 as well and be happy, because you won’t go wrong with either of these.) Loads of citrus peel, delicate peach, and cavorting aromatics of white flowers. Try it with your poultry or fowl, or perhaps a roasted sea bass. The 2017 is priced at around $75, but I’ve seen it for less on some reputable sites.

Insolia is a grape I find myself drinking more and more. It loves seafood of most all sorts, and seafood loves it. I like to shell oysters, run the empty shells in a dishwasher cycle, and make Chinois Curried Oysters with Cucumber Sauce and Salmon Roe, a recipe I came across a decade or so ago and made at a wedding I catered on Nantucket for my friends Constance and Alison. I’ve served it a few times since then, and the 2022 “Carinda” from Assuli Baglio will go with it well. This wine from Sicily sells for around $19. White flowers on the nose – orange and jasmine – and a beautiful salinity that goes for miles.

*Dry, bracing, refreshing, and perfect with curried oysters.*

You should cook the oyster dish, which is based on a Wolfgang Puck creation first served at Chinois in Los Angeles, so I’m including it here; if you make it, drop me a line and let me know how you liked it.

Chinois Curried Oysters with Cucumber Sauce and Salmon Roe
From “Comfort Me With Apples” by Ruth Reichl

“This was an appetizer on Chinois’s first menu. I’ve always loved it. I’ve adapted the recipe from the one Wolfgang distributed at the American Institute of Wine and Food’s Cutting Edge of L.A. Cuisine dinner in 1985. The cucumber sauce is very easy and endlessly versatile; I sometimes use it as a vegetable dip.”

FOR THE CUCUMBER SAUCE

1/4 of a seedless cucumber, chopped

1/4 cup rice wine vinegar, unseasoned

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

2 tablespoons peanut oil

FOR THE CURRIED OYSTERS

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

pinch of salt

16 oysters, shucked, shells reserved

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 tablespoons salmon roe

Accompaniment: lemon wedges

TO MAKE THE CUCUMBER SAUCE

In a blender, purée the cucumber with the vinegar and salt and pepper until very smooth. With the motor running, add the two oils in a slow stream and blend until emulsified.

TO MAKE THE CURRIED OYSTERS

Whisk together the curry powder, flour, and salt in a shallow bowl. Dredge the oysters in the curry mixture one at a time, shaking off the excess flour, and transfer them to a plate.

Heat the oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet until hot but not smoking and pan-fry the oysters in batches, turning them once, until slightly crisp on the outside, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the fried oysters to paper towels to drain. Spoon a scant tablespoon of the cucumber sauce into each of the 16 oyster shells and top with a fried oyster. Top each oyster with 1 teaspoon of salmon roe.

Here’s a red for you that pairs well with a rack of lamb, or Bill Blass’ meatloaf. The 2023 G d’Estournel, from Cos d’Estournel, is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The clay soils of northern Médoc can be discerned in this wine, which offers a fascinating melange of eucalyptus, violet, rosemary, and blueberry. Peppery notes sustain through a relaxed finish. It retails for $39, and you can find other vintages at a lower price point, such as the 2019 for $23.99 at Zachys.

*Pair this Chianti with a dish of lasagna and be happy.*

I’m going Chianti now, and these two bottles I recommend with gusto. From Tenuta Perano we have the Chianti Classico DOCG 2021 ($25 SRP), and from Castello Nipozzano the 2020 Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG ($19.99 SRP). Here’s what you do with these Italian reds: make a large dish of lasagna with béchamel and, if you can find it, wild boar (or lamb or beef). It will be a cool evening, sometime between now and the end of the year. If you wish, make the lasagna the day before. Invite a few friends over for dinner, a between-Thanksgiving-and-Christmas gathering, and open these bottles. The Perano delivers with a bouquet of berries and forest floor and a confident finish, while the Castello Nipozzano brings dark cherry, wild mushroom, and a concise minerality. They’ll both pair well with the lasagna, and the addition of a crusty baguette and a simple salad will make the evening perfect. Both selections are from the Frescobaldi family, which has been producing wines for about 700 years.

I like to give wines to special people as holiday gifts, and while all of the selections in this article would be ideal for such purposes, J. Lohr has put together a few collections that would make ideal presents. One I sampled recently highlights Paso Robles well, and is comprised of the 2021 Proprietary Red Wine, 2021 Tower Road Petite Sirah, and the Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon. For $117, you get three bottles that I would happily drink with a meal starring bone-in ribeye, grilled medium-rare and served with creamed spinach topped with toasted breadcrumbs. The blend melds Cabernet Sauvignon with Petite Sirah, while the 100 percent Petite Sirah showcases the beauty of that grape in outstanding manner. Robust tannins are balanced with rich fruit … you’ll want to put away a bottle of this for a few years as well, because it will age with grace. The Hilltop’s oakiness might be off-putting to some, but the winemaker, Brenden Wood, has a deft touch, so don’t hesitate to give it a try if you like Cabernet Sauvignon.

Ceretto makes fine Barolo, and this is one of them. — *Ceretto makes Barolo worthy of your attention.*

Barolo is special. Nebbiolo is one of my favorite grapes, and I’m including the 2019 Ceretto Barolo DOCG on this holiday list because it tastes so good. Fruit for this wine ($75 SRP) comes from vines with an average age of 30-35 years selected from a number of DOCG Barolo vineyard sites. The wine is aged for three years in oak casks, then for at least one year in the bottle. I hope you are well aware of the beauty of a Barolo, and this one possesses the magic for which Nebbiolo is loved, the rose and tar and mushroom notes that can transport one to a special place. Serve this wine with the grilled steak of your choice, or a pasta and truffle dish.

That’s it, the 2024 edition of my holiday wine guide part one. (Part Two will include some unique finds, along with a few wine-related accessories and books that will be appreciated by those fortunate to receive them as gifts.) I hope you find something to your liking, and that you open and pour with good people. Dine well, enjoy the season, and remember, wine is a living thing, so treat it with care.

Dine Like an Ancient Roman in Los Angeles

July 2, 2024 / [email protected] / 2 Comments

It’s been too long since I dined at Rossoblu, an Italian restaurant located in Los Angeles’ Arts District. The food is commendable, the restaurant’s interior is well designed and comfortable, and the wine list contains lots of quality.

At the end of this month I’ll visit Rossoblu again, for Taste of Italy: Ancient Rome, a family-style meal with wine pairings selected and led by Jeremy Parzen. I met Jeremy Parzen back in 2013 or 2014 in Houston, and it’s also been too long since I’ve seen him.

Steve Samson, the chef at Rossoblu, has put together a menu steeped in history, and here’s what you’ll eat on July 31 if you make a reservation for the dinner:

Columella salad: fresh greens and herbs, pecorino cheese, soft-boiled egg, garum and pine nut dressing

Puls Tractogalata: farro pasta circles with roasted lamb

Stuffed porchetta: sausage and fig, honey sauce, coriander lentils

Savillum: ancient Roman cheesecake with bay leaves and honey

Parzen says he is keeping the cost of the wine pairing as low as possible. “The menu is very reasonably priced and the wine pairing (including generous pours) is priced aggressively so as to make it accessible to all. It’s a great deal and I have some awesome wines lined up,” he writes.

In my head, Trimalchio’s dinner is coming to life … toga optional.

Want a seat at the table: Here’s a link to the dinner, and I hope to see you there.

Mark Your Calendars: California’s Forgotten Grapes Come to LA

June 16, 2024 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

Palomino. Carnelian. Souzao. If you read those words and think, “grape varieties,” I applaud you. If, however, the words are unfamiliar, I suggest you get a ticket to The Festival of Forgotten Grapes, which will take place in Los Angeles on June 29. (If you are in the former group, you, too, should attend this event, because it’s a great opportunity to sample and purchase an outstanding and diverse lineup of wines from California producers at a great price.)

First, I know that many of you know from Dornfelder and Nebbiolo (which are both on the Forgotten Grapes Wine Club’s – the organization behind the festival – list of forgotten varieties). It’s important to note that by “forgotten” we are not talking about wine grapes that have been lost to humans in the mist of time. No, what Allison Levine and Chris Kern mean by the word are grapes that aren’t widely grown in the state. As they write, “More than 100 different grape varieties make up only 7 percent of the total planting in California.” Those grapes are the focus of the festival.

An exciting feature of this festival is the number of wineries that will be pouring their wares (click here for the full list); it’s a cornucopia of producers from the state, including San Rucci Winery, Tansy Wines, Tres Sabores Winery, and Unti Vineyards. Taste, talk to the producers about their wines, and order bottles that you like. If you live locally the Forgotten Grapes team will deliver your selections for a low fee ($15), and for those of you who reside in other locales your wine will be shipped at an economical price.

I love the idea that most of the wines that will be poured at the festival are made either from varieties planted during the settling of California, the early days of the state’s wine industry, or before the Judgment of Paris. This means you’ll taste history and take some home with you.

The Festival of Forgotten Grapes takes place at Frankie in downtown Los Angeles. VIP check-in begins at 11:30 am – I recommend going the VIP route, because the perks are worthwhile, including early admittance; a pre-tasting discussion with Wes Hagen titled “How Forgotten Grapes Became Forgotten: The Changing Landscape of California Wine Since Prohibition;” free delivery of wines that you order at the festival; and discounts on purchases of 6, 12, 24, or more bottles. VIP tickets are $75, and general admission passes are $59. (A portion of ticket proceeds will benefit Minds Matter Southern California.)

Wine – And Two Great Books – for Dads

June 10, 2024 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

If the fathers in your life love wine, you should do right by them and give them what they want on Father’s Day, no? That means bottles and books (because there are so many great books out there about wine) are in order, and I’ve put together a selection of reds, white, and sparkling wines – plus two of my favorite works on wine – that any father would appreciate receiving. It’s my 2024 Father’s Day Gift Guide, and you can read it here.

A Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for Your Consideration

May 28, 2024 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

My tasting agenda has swung into high gear since my return from France (more on that soon), and the bottles are calling to me (except for a certain Riesling that’s raising its voice in a persistent manner): “Let’s go,” they say. “It’s getting crowded in here.”

Two wines that impressed me recently were made by Eric Johnson at Talley Vineyards, a family-owned winery located in the San Luis Obispo region of California’s Central Coast. I’m referring to the 2022 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir and the 2022 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, both of which I found stellar (and the dishes I paired them with were definitely improved by my doing so). A trip to the SLO region is on my planning calendar and I look forward to visiting and touring Talley.

You can read my impressions of the wines here.

Burgundian Days and Nights

April 27, 2024 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

When one sleeps surrounded by Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines the essence of the fruit seems to slip into the subconscious. A final glance at the vineyard outside my room before retiring for the evening, moonlight allowing a view of the young light-green leaves, the cold air and ground working to strengthen the vines. Last night’s temperature fell to around 46. I closed the window and slept, warm under down.

Early morning mist fades away as the sun rises and warms the surroundings. The vines, the leaves, the tendrils – the tops of the trunks low to the ground, perhaps 1 foot or so in height where the green begins – appear fresh, confident even, their color uniform across the parcel. Buds are present, small, tight, promising. (Smudge pots and other weaponry against the dangers of frost abound – it’s late April in Burgundy, and though next week is forecast to bring warmer temperatures, farmers are worried.)

These vines are promise. And our tastings of various vintages this week bring to life the effort and fears and work and dreams that have been deposited into the surrounding vineyards. A 2020 Aligoté lively and fresh, a 2019 Pinot Noir flirtatious and tempting. A premier grand cru that made one’s eyes close with pleasure. That’s the promise.

Drinking Cabernet Franc With Rabelais and Abbott Breton

August 19, 2022 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

I miss being in the Loire Valley. I want to return to Chinon soon. I miss the air, the food, the castles, the gardens and their plants and flowers. I also miss treading upon ground once inhabited by Jeanne d’Arc and Leonardo.

And the wine there. I share a love of Cabernet Franc with Rabelais, and with Cardinal Richelieu, who had it planted it at Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Lively and full of red fruit — cherry and raspberry — when young, and, in the best examples, so complex and sophisticated when older.

I’ve poured many glasses of Breton, as inhabitants of the Loire call Cabernet Franc. Abbott Breton, a monk at Bourgueil Abbey, or Abbaye Saint-Pierre de Bourgueil-en-Vallée in French, was partial to the grape and planted it on the grounds of the monastery. His care for the vines impressed the area’s inhabitants, and they wanted some of their own. The rest is delicious history.

I recently tasted a Cabernet Franc from Cakebread Cellars (2019 vintage), and a certain hilltop castle came to mind. It’s in Chinon, and one fair spring day three companions and I dined well on that hilltop among the ruins of the castle. There was cheese, perhaps Brie and Mimolette, a loaf of bread, some butter and sausage. And with the food, a bottle of Cabernet Franc.

Cakebread’s wine is 76 percent Cab Franc, 19 percent Merlot, and 5 percent Syrah. (You can find it at your favorite merchant, or on the Cakebread site, where it is sold for $75.) It’s a lovely wine, aged 17 months in 60 percent new French oak and 40 percent neutral oak. You’ll find the typical violet notes on the aroma, something that everyone should experience and appreciate. I drank this with pork and beef meatballs … know that Cabernet Franc’s acidity makes it a suitable pairing with many foods, never a bad thing.

Drink this now, or put it aside for a few years in a cool place.

Want more wine and spirits? Read on:
Cocktail Hour Calls for Gin
A Son of SoCal Finds His Niche in Winemaking
Wines for the holidays, and Beyond
Pietro Buttitta Talks Wine and Nietzsche
Nick Goldschmidt and His Family Affair
A Loire Favorite, and Other Tasting Notes
Caitlin Cutler Really Likes Malvasia
Dan Petroski on Soil and J. Alfred Prufrock
A Canadian Makes Good in Mendocino
Bouchaine’s Chris Kajani Tackles the Challenges of a Pandemic
A Bosnian Winemaker Finds a Home in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA
From a Michigan Backyard Vineyard to Sonoma
Paul Hobbs Knew She Had Talent
Ian Cauble: From ‘Somm’ to SommSelect
Eric Sigmund is High on Texas Wine
Jeff Cole, Sullivan Estate’s Winemaker
Jon McPherson Talks Tokay and His Mentor Father
Two Reds From Chile
An Italian Chardonnay From the Cesare Stable
Mi Sueño’s 2016 Napa Valley Syrah
Joshua Maloney on Riesling and Manfred Krankl
Brothers in Wine
Two Bottles From Priest Ranch
A Derby Day Cocktail
Nate Klostermann is Making Some Great Sparkling Wines in Oregon
Matt Dees and the Electric Acidity of Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay
Baudelaire, Pinot Noir, and Rosé: Kathleen Inman’s Passions
Colombia, France, and California: This Winemaker is a Complex Woman
Michael Kennedy Talks Sailing and Zinfandel
Spain Opened the World of Wine for Spottswoode’s Aron Weinkauf
Alta Colina’s Molly Lonborg Wants a Bottle of Château Rayas
Mumm Napa’s Tami Lotz Talks Wine and Oysters
James MacPhail on Pinot Noir, White Burgundy, and Russell Crowe
A Very Proper Sparkling Wine
Talking With David Ramey
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

Sannio is a small region in Campania, and its wines are full of taste and value.

Falanghina and More: Wines From Sannio Deserve Your Love

March 19, 2022 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

Do you know Sannio? Some of you might, but for those who have never heard the word I’d like to provide a primer and recommend some wines from the Italian region, which lies north of Naples and offers lots of value, whether one is discussing wine, travel, food, or real estate.

Perhaps the first thing to know is that Sannio is located in Campania, in Italy’s southwest. It’s a land of hills, and the soils that produce Sannio’s wine grapes are mostly limestone and sandstone beneath gravel and stone, along with some volcanic soils, which were deposited by the region’s many active, dormant and extinct volcanoes.

One interesting and notable fact about Campania’s (and Sannio’s) place in the wine world is that it is home to an astoundingly large number of native cultivars, a treasure that all lovers of wine should appreciate. Forastera, Piedirosso, Sciascinoso and Coda di Volpe Bianca are but four of the region’s grapes that deserve more exposure to the outside world. (The poverty in the region was one reason that farmers did not pull out their “old” vines and replace them with more popular and profitable names, such as merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Simply put, farmers in the area did not have the money to rip out their traditional vines.)

I tasted through a few wines from Sannio recently at a lunch sponsored by the Sannio Consorzio Tutela Vini, an organization that supports the area’s viticulture, and was impressed with the lineup. The quality on display left me with no choice but to recommend all of the following bottles to anyone looking for everyday selections at great prices. A case of any of these wines would be a welcome addition to any party or gathering.

**A sparkling wine from Sannio, one that would suit nearly any occasion.** (Courtesy Corte Normanna Società Agricola)

We’ll begin our Sannio tour with a sparkling wine, the Corte Normanna Società Agricola Falanghina Brut. It is made by the Charmat method, and one can find it for around $10 a bottle. The perlage here is fine and persistent, which adds to the pleasure of drinking. You’ll enjoy pairing a bottle with salade niçoise — the olives will love this sparkling — or goat cheese and a baguette. Serve chilled, of course, and be sure to have at least two extra bottles on hand, because your guests will want more than one glass.

Falanghina For You

We’ll stay with Falanghina for our next wine. It’s a grape that has a long and storied history. Some posit that it is the source of the fabled Falernian, which you might recall reading about in the Satyricon. (Others give Aglianico the nod, but no matter.) Falernian was popular in the classical Roman period, and it was a strong drink. Pliny the Elder was familiar with it, and in the 14th book of Naturalis Historia noted its high alcohol content: “It is the only wine that takes light when a flame is applied to it.”

**Falanghina, an ancient grape that offers great value and taste.** (Courtesy Cantina Sociale La Guardiense)

Our second bottle is from Cantina Sociale La Guardiense, a cooperative that produces a wide variety of wines, including Aglianico, Fiano, Greco and a very good Falanghina, all part of its Janare program, which was instituted to “safeguard and improve local grape varieties.” (I spent some time in Campania a few years ago and was impressed with the stewardship shown by winemakers for their indigenous plants.)

The Janare Falanghina offers tremendous value for its $11 suggested retail price, and it is remarkably friendly with food. Want to serve a white wine with aged provolone? Looking for a great pairing for baked rockfish with olives and garlic? This Falanghina is a perfect option for both scenarios.

It’s dry, possesses remarkable acidity, and leaves nothing but pleasure. (I love a good ratatouille, and look forward to popping the cork on a bottle of this wine next time I make the dish.)

A third Falanghina was on the tasting agenda during my lunch, and it was from Azienda Olivinicola Terre Stregate. If the phrase “Tre Bicchieri” means anything to you, you’ll be happy to hear that this Falanghina, named “Svelato” by the producer, has been awarded that accolade for seven years in a row. I’ve tasted previous vintages of this wine, and I am pleased to report that the quality has been maintained with this bottling. (A recent search located it for sale at K&L for $19.99.)

**This wine has earned an impressive number of accolades, and deservedly so.** (Courtesy Azienda Olivinicola Terre Stregate)

I love wines that offer exciting minerality, and this one has that quality in abundance. Apple, pineapple and hints of jasmine are all obvious on the nose, and you’ll appreciate the honeysuckle and lemon once you take a sip of this commendable wine. I will pair this bottle with roast chicken or mushroom pâté.

Finishing With a Red

The final wine I tasted during the Sannio seminar was from Fattoria La Rivolta — and it had the distinction of being the sole red we tasted. Aglianico del Taburno is a DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) designation for grapes grown around Mount Taburno, and the La Rivolta offering is 100 percent Aglianico, one of Italy’s finest wine grapes, an opinion I share with Ian D’Agata — who in Native Wine Grapes of Italy, a must-have for any lover of Italian wines, writes: “Aglianico is one of the world’s great red grapes, one that is finally carving a place in mainstream wine-drinking consciousness. Along with Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, it is generally believed to be one of Italy’s three best wine grapes, but in my opinion, it is far more. At the very least, it’s one of the world’s dozen or so best wine grapes.”

**Pair this beautiful wine with grilled lamb, and you will not regret the decision.** (Courtesy Fattoria La Rivolta)

The La Rivolta Aglianico, in addition to being the only red wine poured at the lunch session, was also the most expensive wine of the day — the 2017 vintage is available on Wine.com for $24.99 — but it is worth that price, and, according to my palate, will reward a few years of patient aging. Drink this with grilled lamb, pastas with tomato sauce and sausage, or eggplant baked with cheese and tomatoes. It’s a robust and full-bodied wine with gorgeous fruit undergirding impressive structure.

One of the pleasures of navigating the world of wine is tasting around the globe, trying things unfamiliar to you. I urge you to become familiar with Sannio and the excellence it offers.

The holiday season is upon us, and so is the 2021 Brockhaus Wine List. (Wikimedia Commons)

Wines for the 2021 Holiday Season, and Beyond

November 18, 2021 / [email protected] / 0 Comments

Every year, as Thanksgiving and Christmas approach, I am the recipient of requests for wine recommendations for the holidays. It’s a job I take seriously, as Thanksgiving is one of my favorite days of the year, for several reasons, chief among them being the food. Whether I’m making Mama Stamberg’s Cranberry Relish, Scooter’s Southwestern Dressing, brining and roasting a heritage turkey, ordering a smoked bird from Greenberg Turkey, or grilling lamb chops or a rib eye, what to drink with my feast is always on my mind. It’s not a small matter.

And then there’s Christmas (and New Year’s Eve and Day). Plenty of opportunities to try something new and to open and savor some of your tried-and-true favorites. It’s a wonderful time of the year …

My view on pairing wines with Thanksgiving and Christmas festivities is simple, and is aligned with what I often say: Drink what you find pleasurable. It really is that easy. You open a bottle of, say, Endless Crush Rosé of Pinot Noir, from Inman Family Wines — which is one of my recommendations this year — and snack on some cheese straws while drinking it. Perfect. The salty/spicy flavor profile of the delicious Southern staple (click here for a great recipe from Edna Lewis and Scott Peacock) marries well with the Rosé’s remarkable acidity, and all is well for you and your guests.

Now, you could as aptly open a bottle of Piquette from Noblemen Wines (another of my holiday selections this year) with those cheese straws, and I daresay your pleasure would in no way be diminished. Lively, low in alcohol, a great way to begin a day of celebration.

What I’m saying is this: Yes, there are a number of “rules” that most people are told they should (or must) follow when pairing wines with food, and some of them do have merit. There are wines that clash on the palate with salmon. I would not pair salmon with a boldly tannic California Cabernet Sauvignon (and here I am thinking of the 2018 Scattered Peaks Sage Ridge Vineyard Cabernet, which is also on this year’s holiday wine list). Neither would I drink an Auslese with a grilled rib eye or pasta with Bolognese sauce.

Gathering around a holiday table is one of life's great pleasures, and wine plays a starring role. (Wikimedia Commons) — **Gathering around a holiday table is one of life’s great pleasures, and wine plays a starring role.** (Wikimedia Commons)

I could lay out a few more of these strictures, but you get the picture, and here is the main thing: Once you actually “taste” why a wine should not be be paired with a particular dish or type of food you can proceed to write your own set of rules. When that’s done, a certain sense of freedom opens and you are on your way to wine-pairing liberation. You will most likely not want to eat salmon and drink a Cabernet Sauvignon at the same time, but you will have the confidence to know which pairing rules apply to you.

So, on to my 2021 Holiday Wine Selections. As with previous years, this is a highly subjective and personal roster of wines, bottles that appeal to my palate and sensibilities. I am an eclectic consumer of wines — yes, Riesling is my true love, my passion, but you will find me drinking Albariño as often as Chenin Blanc; one day I crave Syrah, the next Cabernet Franc or a Barolo or Müller-Thurgau — and hope my approach appeals to you. (Of course, I would love to — and could easily — include many more bottles on this list, but space does not permit me that luxury.)

At the least, I urge you to never, ever paint yourself into a corner when it comes to what you drink. I’ve met too many people who profess to like Chardonnay only, or who tell me they drink wines only if they garnered “at least” 96 points from this or that critic. Such individuals are generally lackluster conversationalists whose culinary predilections mirror their wine dogmas. These people are best avoided.

To our list.

Sparkling and Rosé

I wrote above that a bottle of Piquette would be a great way to commence a holiday gathering, so that’s what we’ll do. I’ve chosen Noblemen Wines, a producer based in Kerrville, Texas, to supply our effervescent, low-alcohol (7 percent), refreshing, and thirst-quenching Piquette, and it’s a worthy and fun entry on the Sparkling and Rosé category. It will cost you $20 a bottle from Noblemen. Mourvedre and Teroldego skins, plus some added carbonation, are the ingredients behind this unfiltered offering.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting with Remi Cohen at Domaine Carneros, and the 2016 Ultra Brut ($48) from that California house is our next wine. Cohen, the CEO of Domaine Carneros, guided a small group through some excellent bottles on a rainy October afternoon, and I was not alone in picking the Ultra Brut as my favorite on the day (the 2014 Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs was no slouch, of course). Crisp and fresh, this Chardonnay (53 percent)/Pinot Noir (43 percent) bottling should stand beside your seafood tower, because it was made for raw oysters and butter-poached lobster.

**Drink this sparkling wine with a bevy of oysters.** (Courtesy Domaine Carneros)

A Champagne is next, the Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve ($70), a vintage beauty of a wine whose finish will (should) stun you. I think it represents a great value in the rarefied world of Champagne. You can spend more, much more, on a bottle (say, $350 for a 2013 Louis Roederer Cristal), but this Heidsieck selection will more than satisfy your needs. It’s a blend of 60 crus, and it’s full of superb white fruits.

We go back to California now, and to the 2016 Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé ($55). You and your guests will love to look at this bottle, because the wine possesses a seducing, tantalizing coral hue. Brioche and raspberries dominate the aroma, and you’ll appreciate the crispness and minerality here. I opened a bottle recently and paired it with a room-temperature round of Brie, and you might enjoy doing the same. (And for those interested in the business of wine, here’s some news about a recent transaction involving Frank Family.)

**This sparkling wine will pair wonderfully with fried crustaceans.**

To round out this section, the 2020 Endless Crush Rosé ($38) from Inman Family Wines. Estate fruit from the Olivet Grange Vineyard, low alcohol (12 percent), and luscious flavors of strawberries and white flowers. This wine is one of my go-to Rosés, and I recommend it on a regular basis. Kathleen Inman is the winemaker, and her story is a good one … you can learn more about her here.

White Wines

The thoughts of most people gravitate toward white wines when they think of pairings for turkey, and they are not wrong. As you’ll see in these selections, however, turkey is not the sole food on the menu during the holidays. Oysters, stuffing or dressing, lobster, mushrooms, and caviar (to name but a few items) are also in the mix, and white wines are great with all of these things. Again, taste and taste, and come up with your own rules.

Let’s begin with a Russian River Valley Chardonnay that is a perennial solid choice. It’s from Jordan Vineyard & Winery, and the 2019 vintage sells for $36; older vintages are also available, and this wine ages gracefully. (I profiled Maggie Kruse, Jordan’s head winemaker, in Wine Talk back in 2019, and she’s now firmly in control of the estate’s program.) I sampled this vintage several weeks ago and would gladly pair it with a roasted turkey at my table.

**A Russian River Valley Chardonnay that pairs well with turkey and chicken, not to mention quail and pheasant.**

Washington State is the source of our next wine, and I’m excited about this one. It’s the 2019 Öömrang Estate Siegerrebe ($75), a lovely, delicate expression of the German grape. (Siegerrebe can be translated to “Champion Vine” or “Victory Vine” and its name refers to its ability to produce high yields.) This wine is highly aromatic, with a supple mouthfeel … and it’s fun to drink. I enjoyed it with a mushroom risotto, and if you’ve never tasted a Siegerrebe, don’t skip this one. (I’ll have a profile of the producer in the coming weeks.)

**This is one of my favorite wines of the year.**

Chenin Blanc is never a bad idea, and the 2020 Domaine Huët Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie is an excellent idea. I’ve seen it offered for between $69 and $75 recently, and to be frank, anything from this producer is worth your time, attention, and money. Your turkey and stuffing will both pair well with this wine, and your guests will envy your taste.

An Albariño hailing from Lodi is next, from Mettler Family Vineyards. The 2020 vintage was recently released, and you’ll likely find it and the 2019 for the grand price of $20. Buy them both if you can, and you’ll have no regrets. The Mettler family has been farming grapes in the Lodi AVA since the late 1880s, and have been selling their fruit to other producers for a long time. And, they make their own wine, obviously. I like their Old Vine Zinfandel as well, but this Albariño speaks to me in an eloquent and fun manner.

**This Albariño, from Lodi, should be on your holiday wine lineup.**

The Riesling on my 2021 list is from New Zealand, the 2019 Eden Valley Dry Riesling ($18) from Pewsey Vale. Previous vintages of this wine have been mainstays in my inventory, and for the price it is something I recommend by the caseful. Some of the fruit in this wine comes from vines planted in 1961, and the people behind Pewsey Vale run an exacting program. I will be drinking this wine for years to come, happily. If you are serving a piquant green bean casserole this holiday season pair this wine with it.

Red Wines

On to the reds, and a few bottles that will appeal to those seeking wines to pair with turkey, steak, lamb, ham, and other festive foods. As with wine rules, no one should feel fenced in when it comes to holiday menus. If you want to cook a leg of lamb for Thanksgiving, do so. Some of these reds display lively acidity, others are suited for heavier dishes, but they are all quality bottles that you won’t regret opening.

**William Allen’s approach to winemaking is to my liking.**

First up, the 2019 Two Shepherds Pinot Meunier ($40). This wine, made by William Allen, the founder of Two Shepherds, is on my list this year because it’s a wine that will pair well with turkey, ham, and roasted vegetables. If you drink Pinot Noir, try this wine. We’re talking 13.5 percent alcohol and layers of complexity, an easy-to-drink, well-made bottle. Allen is an iconoclastic crafter of wines, and if you find yourself in Healdsburg, be sure to visit his warehouse winery in nearby Windsor. You’ll enjoy conversing with him, trust me.

Joel Aiken is the man behind our next wine. In 1985, he was named lead winemaker at Beaulieu Vineyards, becoming the youngest person to hold that position at the historic estate. He was winemaker at Amici Cellars from 2009 to 2015, and founded Aiken Wine Consulting in 2009. He has also held positions with Provenance, Acacia, and Glen Ellen in California, and Navarro Correas in Argentina. His 2018 Scattered Peaks Sage Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($125) is a serious wine that I’ll serve with a grilled rib eye this holiday season. It spends 22 months in French oak, possesses a richness that I love, and will, of course, age with aplomb.

We’ll stay in California for one more wine, and that is the 2014 Seavey Merlot ($85), a beautiful expression of this grape. If you are planning to prepare a pork roast this holiday season, drink this wine with it. The tannins will amaze, as will the lush mouthfeel. Seavey Merlots are among my favorite Napa wines, and I advise you to take possession of several bottles and age at least two of them for a decade or so. Jim Duane and Philippe Melka made this.

On to Italy. I chose this wine after sampling the 2018 vintage recently, and, at $15 a bottle, there’s no reason to not buy La Valentina Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC by the case. I also added it to my 2021 Holiday list for those who will be grilling or smoking meats between now and the end of the year, say, lamb chops, pork butt, or brisket. Uncork this wine and enjoy an uncomplicated yet satisfying pairing for your meat dishes.

Let’s close the red section with, yes, a Pinot Noir, one with elegance, great acidity, and wonderful depth. The 2018 ROAR Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot ($70) is a worthy companion for your turkey, and will also pair wonderfully with game birds (pheasant, duck) and wild boar. The Franscioni family knows from wine, and this bottle demonstrates that well. Give it 20 minutes to breathe after you pull the cork.

That’s a wrap. The wines on this list represent diverse styles of winemaking, and everyone should find at least one bottle on it to their liking. I’ve forgone the normal “stick to wines with just the right amount of acidity” holiday advice here, not because I disagree with that statement, but because I want to recommend wines that pair well with more than turkey. We are a diverse nation, and our holiday tables hold more than poultry, something about which we should be proud and grateful.

Ask for these wines at your favorite merchant, and order directly from the producer if possible.

And one final note: At the end of your Thanksgiving and Christmas meals, toast yourself, your great taste, and your guests with Amaro Averna.

Want more wine? Read on.

Pietro Buttitta Talks Wine and Nietzsche
Nick Goldschmidt and His Family Affair
A Loire Favorite, and Other Tasting Notes
Caitlin Cutler Really Likes Malvasia
Dan Petroski on Soil and J. Alfred Prufrock
A Canadian Makes Good in Mendocino
Bouchaine’s Chris Kajani Tackles the Challenges of a Pandemic
A Bosnian Winemaker Finds a Home in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA
From a Michigan Backyard Vineyard to Sonoma
Paul Hobbs Knew She Had Talent
Ian Cauble: From ‘Somm’ to SommSelect
Eric Sigmund is High on Texas Wine
Jeff Cole, Sullivan Estate’s Winemaker
Jon McPherson Talks Tokay and His Mentor Father
Two Reds From Chile
An Italian Chardonnay From the Cesare Stable
Mi Sueño’s 2016 Napa Valley Syrah
Joshua Maloney on Riesling and Manfred Krankl
Brothers in Wine
Two Bottles From Priest Ranch
A Derby Day Cocktail
Nate Klostermann is Making Some Great Sparkling Wines in Oregon
Matt Dees and the Electric Acidity of Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay
Baudelaire, Pinot Noir, and Rosé: Kathleen Inman’s Passions
Colombia, France, and California: This Winemaker is a Complex Woman
Michael Kennedy Talks Sailing and Zinfandel
Spain Opened the World of Wine for Spottswoode’s Aron Weinkauf
Alta Colina’s Molly Lonborg Wants a Bottle of Château Rayas
Mumm Napa’s Tami Lotz Talks Wine and Oysters
James MacPhail on Pinot Noir, White Burgundy, and Russell Crowe
A Very Proper Sparkling Wine
Talking With David Ramey
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life
Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

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