Wine, Food, and Other Vital Things

Month: February 2026

What I’m Reading: Jimmy Carter the Winemaker, Sekt, and an Oxford Riot

The news never stops coming, and keeping up with everything is an impossible task. Regrettably, there are often too few hours in a day that one can devote to reading, and though I attempt to stay on top of as much as I can, my stacks of newspapers, magazines, and books are always beckoning (and expanding). There’s wine and food, of course, but there’s so much more, from literature and cinema to essays and profiles. Here’s a look at a few things that caught my eye this week.

I begin this week with another winery closing in California. Margins Wine will cease operations at the end of the cruelest month. “Do you want to be liable for this type of financial pressure for the next 10 years?” That’s what Megan Bell, winemaker and owner of Margins, asked herself. Read this piece by Esther Mobley here.

Megan Bell at her winery. (Margins Wine)

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Oxford, St. Scholastica’s Day, 1355. Edward III was on the throne, and not all was to be well on February 10 and 11 on that fine year. It appears that a few clergymen did not like the wine they were served at Swindlestock Tavern, convinced that the tavern’s owner, John de Croyden, was serving them inferior juice. All hell broke loose, and when things quieted down on the 11th the death toll had reached 62. Click here to read about the mayhem.

Wine can stir things up in deadly manner. (Oxford Pageant)

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Andrew Jefford received the Masters of Wine Lifetime Achievement Award from none other than Kylie Minogue earlier this month during ceremonies in Paris. Jefford, author of one of my favorite books, “Drinking With the Valkyries,” was humbled. Here’s a recap of the evening.

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Jimmy Carter, one of my heroes, made wine, as did his grandfather and father before him, from grapes grown on the family’s 15 acres of vines. Back in 2005, Carter sat for an interview with “Wine Spectator.” As today is Presidents’ Day, I reread this lovely piece about a lovely man.

Jimmy Carter holds a bottle of his white wine. (The Carter Center)

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Jackson Family Wines and Constellation Brands are getting new leaders. Tim Brown, formerly of Upfield and Nestlé, is replacing Rick Tigner at Jackson. Tigner has been with the brand since 1991. At Constellation, Nick Fink will be taking over from Bill Newlands.

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Do you drink many wines from Central and Eastern Europe? When I first started drinking wine I was often found with bottles from Bulgaria. Not so often lately, however. But, that could change, as trade groups and governmental agencies hit the road. Look for more wines from Romania, Albania, and other countries showing up on wine lists and merchant shelves.

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Andy Goldsworthy’s work has long fascinated me, since the time I first wandered along his Storm King Wall one autumn afternoon in upstate New York. The artist, now approaching 70, is pondering his legacy; I predict it will be long and lasting. Here’s a profile of Goldsworthy by Rebecca Mead.

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Samuel Johnson is never a boring read. “You put it in new words, but it is an old thought. This is one of the disadvantages of wine, it makes a man mistake words for thoughts.” Here he is holding forth on wine and its utility in life.

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Another writer whose work I admire greatly is Peter Matthiessen. He was recruited by the CIA and plied his trade for the agency in Paris in the early 1950s. And he wrote gorgeously. “When you’re 23, it seems pretty romantic to go to Paris with yr beautiful young wife to serve as an intelligence agent and write the Great American Novel into the bargain,” Matthiessen wrote to his friend Ben Bradlee. Read more about his life and work here.

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Sekt. I love it, and have been drinking it since I was introduced to it as a high school student living in the Pfalz. It presents a great bargain compared to Champagne, and you overlook it at your peril. Here’s Eric Asimov on 10 bottles to consider.

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Frederick Wiseman was a genius storyteller.

To close this week’s edition of What I’m Reading, an appreciation of the life and work of a great director. Fredrick Wiseman died, aged 96, on Monday. “Titicut Follies,” “In Jackson Heights,” “Ex Libris: The New York Public Library,” and “Menus-Plaisirs — Les Troisgros” are my favorite Wiseman’s films, and you should see them if you have not. Here’s an obituary, and here’s a piece on the man in “The Film Stage.”

LA Farmers Market Feast: Ettore Winery Duo’s Petit Verdot Shines

The Original Farmers Market is a Los Angeles treasure. It was founded at the corner of 3rd and Fairfax in 1934 as a “village” in which local farmers could sell their wares. The site had previously been a 256-acre ranch, and when oil was discovered on it, in 1900, the owner, A.F. Gilmore, replaced his dairy cattle with oil derricks. The city of Los Angeles had yet to encroach on the property as the crude was brought forth from the ground.

When the development of Los Angeles caught up to the property no new derricks were permitted, and, eventually, the Gilmore expanse grew quiet. It stayed that way into the 1930s, until two entrepreneurs, Fred Beck and Roger Dahljelm, convinced Gilmore’s son, Earl Bell Gilmore, that a farmers market would be a great venture for the property. The rest is history.

The Gilmores still own the market, and today it’s home to more than 100 vendors, including grocers, restaurants (the famed Du-Par’s among them) and shops and businesses, from jewelry, clothing, and art stores to barbers, shoemakers, and houseware merchants.

I don’t get to the Original Farmers Market often enough, but I recently attended a wine dinner at a restaurant there, Ettore Vino & Cucina, and not only were the food and wines pleasing, but the visit has also served as a personal directive for me to take myself to 3rd and Fairfax on a regular basis.

Ettore Vino & Cucina is the restaurant and tasting room of Ettore Winery, which is located in Hopland, California. Ettore Biraghi and Sofia Rivier are the winemakers, and the estate, in Mendocino’s Sanel Valley, comprises 64 acres, of which 35 are planted with vines. The property is situated 500 to 600 feet above sea level, and gravelly, loamy soils dominate.

The Ettore estate vineyard is the source of five grape varieties. (Ettore Winery)
The Ettore vineyard lies at the foot of Duncan Peak in the Sanel Valley. (Ettore Winery)

The occasion for my visit to Ettore Vino & Cucina was a winemaker dinner, presented by Biraghi and Rivier, along with Fabrizio de Falco, the restaurant’s managing director. Nine wines paired with a five-course menu was the plan, and I could not have been happier with the pairings if I had selected them myself.

The team behind Ettore Vino & Cucina, Sofia Rivier, Fabrizio de Falco, and Ettore Biraghi, speak to guests at a wine dinner at the restaurant. (Please the Palate)
A menu whose stars were the Bolognese and petit verdot. (Brockhaus Photography)

First, the two wines that pleased me the most: the 2023 Ettore Pure Chardonnay ($18) and the 2021 Ettore Petit Verdot ($38). The former, an unoaked, 100 percent stainless steel wine that does undergo full malolactic conversion, was delightful with the prosciutto di Parma and gnocco fritto, while the latter, partnered with a hanger steak (diaframma in Italian), was the pairing of the evening.

Gnocco fritto and prosciutto di Parma began the wine dinner. (Please the Palate)
Hanger steak paired well with a 2021 Petit Verdot from Ettore Winery. (Please the Palate)

What I like about this chardonnay is its vibrancy: one sip brightens the palate, and it is an excellent food wine. Lemon and jasmine on the nose, nice herbal notes as well. Medium acidity and body and an austere finish result in a wine that drinks above its price point. The alcohol level is 13.5 percent, and 1,296 cases were produced.

The petit verdot was for me the best wine of the evening; Biraghi and Rivier used fruit from vines planted 29 and 26 years ago to produce this wine, which is dark purple in color and full of body. Robust tannins, distinct violet and dark berry aromas, touches of spice (black pepper) and a fine herbaceousness combine to create a beautiful wine. A total of 168 cases were produced.

A sformato di carote was served over a gorgonzola sauce. (Please the Palate)
Tagliatelle alla Bolognese was a great companion for the Ettore petit verdot. (Please the Palate)

Ettore farms organically, and uses products certified by California Certified Organic Farmers, a nonprofit group that promotes organic agricultural practices through education, advocacy, and certification. Biraghi, who was born in Varese, Italy, and lives in Switzerland, and Rivier, who was raised in Argentina and trained in Switzerland and now resides in the Mendocino Valley, both put a premium on making low-intervention wines, and the phrase “made with organic grapes” is displayed prominently on the brand’s bottles. A major component of the duo’s winemaking is the Purovino method, which is designed to reduce or eliminate the addition of sulfites. Grapes are treated with ozone, which sanitizes them and helps manage oxidation. All fruit at Ettore is harvested by hand.

Biraghi first visited Mendocino in 2015, and had a hunch that its terroir would suit his goal of making low-intervention wines; his project was established in 2019, though the winery itself is more than 100 years old. The brand includes olive oil as well, made from trees on the Ettore property.

The other wines I tasted at the dinner included Ettore’s 2022 and 2019 Reserve Chardonnay ($22), 2022 and 2019 Rosso ($28), 2022 and 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Signature ($34), and the winery’s 2019 Merlot ($35). The Rosso bottles — a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and petit verdot — were paired on the menu with the tagliatelle alla Bolognese, to wonderful effect. Rich meat sauce, rich, full-bodied wines that cut through the bold dish, toothsome homemade pasta … nothing more needed.

If you are in Los Angeles I recommend adding a visit to the farmers market and booking a table for dinner at Ettore Vino & Cucina. You can purchase Ettore wines here, or ask for them at your favorite merchant.

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