Sparkling wine — be it Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or anything else with bubbles and alcohol that is made well — is something I never take for granted. I counsel anyone who will listen to me to have a bottle or two chilling in the refrigerator at all times. I know I am at the right place when I visit a friend’s home or am a guest at a dinner party and the host offers a glass of sparkling to begin the evening.
The holiday season is drawing near, and even if you are not someone who partakes of sparkling wines on, say, a weekly basis, chances are high that you’ll add some bottles of Champagne or Cava to your shopping list between now and the end of the year. There’s nothing better to kick off a festive gathering, be it a dinner party or a garden soirée, and the elegance of a sparkling wine sets an intimate and relaxed tone, one that encourages conversation and creates good cheer.
I’ll be publishing a number of articles — including gift guides — leading up to the holiday season that will feature sparkling wines, from vintage grower Champagnes to Cava and cider, but to kick off the celebrations my tastings this week focus on three sparkling wines that represent outstanding value, each commendable in its own way. No Champagne here, but this is a delicious roster nonetheless.
Up first, the 2022 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Blanc de Blancs. It follows on from the inaugural 2021 vintage, the first ever sparkling wine made by the St. Helena-based brand, which was established by Margaret and Dan Duckhorn in 1976. This méthode champenoise wine is 100 percent Chardonnay from cool-climate vineyards in the Los Carneros region of Napa Valley Carneros, including El Veredicto, which is owned by Duckhorn.
Renée Ary made 175 cases of this wine, which has a suggested retail price of $64. Alcohol is 12.5 percent, and aging took place for 10 months in 70 percent neutral French oak and 30 percent in second-vintage barrels. Tirage: 32 months.
What I especially like about this wine is its fine and detailed effervescence and the lovely brioche notes it possesses. Apple and citrus sing on the palate, and a velvety/decadent mouthfeel complete the experience. It’s a great bottle to open at the beginning of a meal, and as for food, I paired it with a selection of cheeses — a Camembert, some Brie, and a Gorgonzola — and heard no complaints. I have another bottle on hand and its destiny is a date with a platter of Kumamoto oysters come December. Overall a commendable domestic sparkling wine.
We’ll remain on the West Coast of the United States for our next bottle, which is the 2019 Argyle Blanc de Blancs ($30 SRP, and I have found the ’19 for around $20 on several retail sites). Nate Klostermann, who celebrated his 20th harvest at Argyle in 2024, made some amazing wines at the estate, for which he became head winemaker in 2013. He stepped down earlier this year and was succeeded by Kate Payne Brown.
This inexpensive selection — the 2022 vintage is the current release — is 100 percent Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley, specifically Knudsen and Spirit Hill vineyards. If you are searching for a sparkling wine to serve at dinner parties or to become your everyday house selection, this is an ideal candidate. You might even consider doing what I did and get a few bottles of the ’19 and the ’22 and conduct a tasting panel to compare and contrast.
Freshness is the word to know here, followed closely by precision. From the minute you pour this wine into your stem you sense Klostermann’s exacting approach. It’s a focused offering, one that drinks far above its cost. Scents of lively citrus and white flowers proceed to delicate brioche and concise mineral acidity on the palate — do serve this in a bowl stem, as opposed to a flute, because you want to accentuate the bouquet.
Klostermann made 2,200 cases of the 2019, and Dijon clones 76, 95, and 96 were involved. It was aged en tirage for 30 months, and its fine bubbles are pleasing and sensual. I’ll return to oysters again when thinking of food pairings, but at a recent meal my dining companion and I enjoyed this wine with dishes of shrimp dumplings and fried chicken legs at Si! Mon, a restaurant near Venice Beach.
Rounding out this sparkling wine sampler is a fun Rosso Cònero DOC Pétillant Naturel from Garofoli. I’ve never taken to using the (to my sensibilities) too-cute phrase “pét-nat,” but don’t let my formal approach ruin your fun. And this wine, the Pét Kon Vino Rosato Frizzante, is nothing if not fun. It retails for the grand sum of $18, it is 100 percent Montepulciano, it has a bouncing, frisky fizz, and it pairs wonderfully well with hamburgers and pizza.
Winemaker Carlo Garofoli ages this unfiltered wine for five months in the bottle, following whole-cluster fermentation and partial carbonic maceration in stainless steel tanks.
I love the color of this wine, a tempting, slightly cloudy salmon pink that playfully attracts the eye. Aromas of red berries — cherry and raspberry in an appealing manner — and on the palate a touch of mint, coupled with cherry and those aforementioned berries, plus lemon, result in a fresh, and refreshing, pour. Yes, you can open a bottle of this crown-closure wine to serve with your favorite hamburger, but an evening spent at table with the Pét Kon, a few friends, and fresh pupusas, barbacoa tacos, and grilled garlicky shrimp would be perfect.
Garafoli dates its founding to 1871, and is still a family concern, overseeing four estate vineyards encompassing 128 acres. Wines produced include Verdicchio deli Castelli di Jesi, Rosso Piceno, and Verdicchio di Matelica. The family also purchases fruit from growers and produces approximately 2,000,000 bottles a year.
Three sparkling wines at three price points, each a fine value and worth adding to your holiday shopping list. Up next, along with the usual mix, a few vintage Champagnes, some Cava, and a list of items for those searching for wine- and food-centric gifts.
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