Another day, another virtual tasting … and I’m smiling as I write this. The long-distance gatherings have been abundant since COVID-19 turned the world upside down, and while some have been better than others — that’s the way of life, no? — almost all of the tastings I’ve participated in have been informative, engaging, and fun.
That goes for the recent one with Somerston Estate, a 1,682-acre Napa Valley winery in the eastern Vaca Mountains that has 244 acres planted to vines and produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Sauvignon Blanc. It was established in 2007. (For a bit of history about the estate its other labels, read this.)
Craig Becker is Somerston’s director of making, and a co-founder of the estate, and he and Cody Hurd, assistant winemaker at Somerston, led the Zoom tasting of two of their wines, the 2015 XCVI and the 2016 LX, Cabernet Sauvignons that deserve your attention.
Becker and his team oversee 154 distinct vineyard blocks, and these two wines — as is the case with all of Somerston’s offerings — are sourced from a single (different) block.
Celestial Block XCVI is where the fruit for the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon grew, while Celestial Block LX nurtured the grapes for the 2016 bottling. Both vineyards are hillside plots — Block LX’s (60) elevation averages 1,550 feet above sea level, and Block XCVI (96)’s elevation averages 1,100. (For those who want more specifics, Block 60 is a little less than an acre in size, and contains six rows and 969 vines — clones 15 and 337 — and Block 96 spans 2.3 acres with five rows and 4,148 vines — clone 47.)
The 2015 Somerston XCVI
I pulled the corks on the wines about 30 minutes before I tasted them, and the bottles had been resting for a week at 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
The XCVI was up first. A whiff of brooding dark fruit — blackcurrants, plums, — greeted me, sensually, accompanied by eucalyptus and cigar box. This wine knows how to seduce. Its boldness fills the mouth — the fruit is assertive and confident — and the finish is engagingly persistent. The tannins in this wine play wonderfully well with a pleasant acidity.
The fruit for this wine was picked by hand, then de-stemmed, sorted, and cold-soaked for five days at 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Native-yeast fermentation occurred over 16 days, and the XCVI was aged for 24 months in 70 percent new French oak and 30 percent once-used barrels. The wine was released in October 2019, and 320 cases were produced. It has a suggested retail price of $175.
Food pairings? Well, I’d never disagree to drinking this while eating a grilled steak, and a rich meatloaf would also be a fit. It is drinking well now, and I’ll wager it will be beautiful in 2029.
The 2016 LX was next, and Becker and team have crafted something special in this one. Block 60 is the highest vineyard at Somerston, and receives sun all day; the quality of the fruit that went into this bottle is impressive. The growing season was (mostly) steady and mild, as well, marked by warm days at the end of the growing season, another component of note here.
Fruit-forward can be an overused descriptor, but it is apt for this wine. Lively notes of dark cherry and an alluring herbaceousness — plus chocolate. Drinking this, I was taken to the Napa Valley, and glorious mountain fruit. Again, one would not be wrong to open a bottle of this now, and cellar one (or more) for a decade.
The 2017 LX was aged for 24 months 80 percent new French oak and 20 percent once-used barrels; it also carries suggested retail price of $175, and production was 87 cases. Food pairings? How about a grilled venison steak, or osso buco?
Craig Becker wants to make Somerston one of the finest estates in the world.
Becker’s stated goal is to make Somerston one of the world’s best estates, and his team has the talents and funding to give it a go. Sustainability is also in the mix here, something I firmly believe is crucial to the future of winemaking. Here is the future at the estate, according to Somerston itself:
The estate – with its rugged terrain, spectacular vistas, and bountiful wildlife – is the highlight at Somerston, while the winery blends into the landscape. The winery is a renovated 12,000 square-foot barn. It is a practical, efficient, and green facility with some of the most cutting-edge, innovative technology in the world. The centerpiece is an integrated, carbon-neutral CO2 heating and cooling system that operates with zero emissions of hazardous refrigerants while achieving a vastly higher performance level than traditional propane-based hot water boilers and standard refrigerant heat pumps. The system will allow the winery to produce hot water, not from propane, but electricity generated from the use of solar panels.
Somerston Estate and Priest Ranch vineyards
The next phase of the project is to construct an additional winery building with a solar roof that will make Somerston self-sufficient in energy and capable of operating entirely off the grid. The winery also employs an anaerobic process wastewater bio-filter that delivers clean, pH-adjusted water combined with irrigation water and returned to the vineyard.
I love to talk about wine with people who share my passion for it. We open bottles, we trade stories about travel and soil types, terroir and residual sugar, and we talk of taste and food and restaurants. We recommend wines to one another, we drink, and we learn a lot.
In Wine Talk, I introduce you to friends, acquaintances, and people I meet as I make my way around the world, individuals who love wine as much as I do, who live to taste, who farm and make wine. You’ll appreciate their insight, and I hope you’ll learn something from them as well.
The wine bug can bite hard. Just ask Eric Sigmund. He took a part-time job at Total Wine & More to help pay off his student loans — Sigmund has a law degree — and discovered a new love, one that eventually forced him to put aside a career in international law and enter the world of wine professionally.
Sigmund is now the chief operating officer for Reddy Vineyards, and oversees sales and marketing, distribution, compliance, and human resources at the winery, which is based in Brownfield, Texas.
Reddy was founded in 1997 by Dr. Vijay Reddy, whose expertise in soil chemistry and experience as a farmer — cotton and peanuts in India — made him a natural at growing grapes. He came to the United States in 1971 and earned a graduate degree in soil and plant science, then, in 1975, a doctorate. He and his wife, Subada, started a soil consulting business, which led them to their first grape plantings. Reddy now encompasses more than 300 acres planted with 38 varietals.
Sigmund joined the Reddy team in early 2019, after having spent nearly five years with Total Wine, ending his tenure with the company as an associate buyer. He holds degrees from the University of Iowa and Syracuse (juris doctor). As you will learn, Sigmund is an avid ambassador for the Texas wine industry.
James Brock: How has COVID-19 changed your work and life?
Eric Sigmund: COVID has forced us to become more openminded and flexible. When the initial lockdowns began, in March, we were quick to pivot to maximize our online footprint. We emphasized driving traffic to our eCommerce site, utilized social media for customer acquisition, and brought our story and products into customers’ homes via virtual tastings.
Virtual tastings are a sign of the times.
Virtual and online touchpoints will continue to be core elements of our customer-service strategy. We also doubled down on our retail strategy. During COVID, we expanded our retail footprint within Texas and accelerated the development of a new series of wines designed for grocery and fine-wine retailers. We are extremely proud of these wines, as they provide consumers an affordable 100 percent estate-grown and estate-produced lineup of premium Texas wines that were previously not widely available within the state.
JB: Tell us about three wines you think are drinking well at the moment. What makes them worthwhile? How about a food pairing for each one?
ES: The Reddy Vineyards Field Blend is our flagship wine. The 2017 vintage is drinking great. It’s a proprietary blend from a unique circular-shaped block in the vineyard that is planted with eight varietals. This 2-acre block is harvested together and co-fermented. Because of the way we craft this wine, it displays many layers, but is also very harmonious, since the wine started as a blend even in the vineyard.
“The Circle” Field Blend
Everything about this wine is a bit unorthodox, but that’s what makes it so interesting to drink. This wine is available on our website for $35 and can be found in several retailers within Texas.
Our 2019 TNT Red Blend is a 63 percent Tempranillo and 37 percent Touriga Nacional. These varietals do exceptionally well in the warmer climate of west Texas and produce an amazing synergy of aromatics, color, body, structure, and flavors when blended together. It’s very “Texas.” I love to pair this with some good barbecue. The wine is young with good tannic grip, but it is still approachable. It retails for $40, and can be found at retailers including Total Wine and Central Market throughout Texas.
The 2019 Reserve Viognier / Marsanne Blend is our premier white wine. These Rhône whites thrive in Texas. Viognier, in particular, is a star performer, but I really love Marsanne, especially when it sees some new oak. I see barrel-aged/fermented Marsanne as Texas’ version of oaked Chardonnay. This wine was aged 50 percent in new French oak for six months and gives the drinker a lot to enjoy. Secondary notes dominate the aromatic profile, but the Viognier lifts the wine on the palate with nice acidity and bright citrus, while the Marsanne adds body and creaminess.
A trio from Reddy Vineyards
This wine won Double Gold and Best-in-Class Viognier at the 2021 Houston Rodeo Uncorked! International Wine Competition, which is a great accomplishment. Pair it with lobster, scallops, or poultry. You can buy it on the Reddy Vineyards site ($50).
JB: If cost was no consideration, tell us the one bottle you would add to your personal collection, and why.
ES: This question doesn’t resonate with me. When searching for wines to buy, I’m looking for new and interesting experiences. Perhaps it’s a varietal or a region I don’t frequently taste, an up-and-coming producer, or the wine was made utilizing an interesting technique.
I’ve enjoyed plenty of rare, blue-chip wines, and there are many more I haven’t had the opportunity to taste, but seeking these wines doesn’t interest me. Wine needs to be more accessible (but don’t confuse accessibility with availability for the sake of quantity), so I’m generally looking for wines $50 and under, which overdeliver and can serve as a reference point for emerging trends or further research.
Currently, I’m particularly interested in aged (dry) white wines. These wines can be misunderstood and underappreciated. The best white wine I have ever tasted was a 2012 Texas Viognier that I drank last year, the Pedernales Cellars Reserve Viognier. It retails for about $40. It was exquisite — a true wine epiphany moment. It was still youthful and bright but had developed seemingly endless complexity. Every time I sipped it, I tasted something different, and the wine continued to evolve over the next two hours as I drank it. That experience helped reshape my perception of old whites and of the incredible potential of Texas wine. (Editor’s note: The fruit for the Pedernales Viognier came from Reddy Vineyards.)
JB: What is your favorite grape, and why?
ES: I’ve always been particularly fond of Syrah. I love a bold and spicy Syrah from Rhône and enjoy expressions from Barossa or McClaren Vale as well. Meaty versions can be a lot of fun to drink, too. Syrah just hits the right notes — the dark fruit, the structure, the depth — it’s what I’m looking for in a big red.
The 2019 Reserve Cabernet Franc from Reddy Vineyards
JB: How about one bottle that our readers should buy now to cellar for 10 years, to celebrate a birth, anniversary, or other red-letter day?
ES: Our 2019 Reddy Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Franc is tremendous. It is a blend of 89 percent Cabernet Franc and 11 percent Petit Verdot. 100 percent new French Oak. This wine was just released and will age well for a very long time. It sells for $75.
JB: Where is your go-to place when you want to have a glass or bottle (outside of your home and workplace)?
ES: To be honest, when drinking outside my home, I tend to drink beer and cocktails. I like to drink something new every time I enjoy a beverage. It is much easier to find new and unique items on a beer list or cocktail menu since these rotate more frequently. Unfortunately, too many wine lists tend to be static and feature the usual suspects. Plus, the wine markups at restaurants are just crazy when I can purchase that item for a third of the cost at my local retailer.
Good cocktails are handcrafted, so they are more unique to the restaurant. This is a huge problem for the wine industry. I’d encourage restaurant owners who are passionate about wine to focus on smaller, rotating menus that will keep guests interested. One positive of COVID is the wide adoption of eMenus, which makes it easier and more cost-effective for restaurateurs to run dynamic beverage lists. I hope this will continue long into the future.
JB:If there was one thing you wish everyone would keep in mind when buying and drinking wine, what is it?
ES: I’d encourage customers to think more about where the wine came from and how it was made. Don’t be afraid to ask questions of the wine steward at your local wine shop. Hopefully, that person can help guide you — in a well-informed but unpretentious manner — to find a wine that not only fits your taste preferences, but also your values.
At the same time, shopping for wine shouldn’t have to be a chore. This is another challenge for the wine industry as a whole. This burden falls to the producers to be more transparent and communicative of these facts with consumers. It’s great to see more producers leaning towards transparency, but the wine industry should also be wary of those who try to capitalize on marketing things like “clean wine.” This, too, can be dangerous for the industry by legitimizing misperceptions and creating misinformed customers.
Eric Sigmund: “Don’t be afraid to ask questions of the wine steward at your local wine shop.”
JB: What is your “wine eureka moment,” the incident/taste/encounter that put you and wine on an intimate plane forever?
ES: I previously described an experience I had with a Texas Viognier, which solidified my belief of the world-class quality of Texas wine. I’ve only had two other wines that elicited the same type of “eureka moments” — so these are very rare.
Instead, my passion for wine developed as I began working a second job as a wine associate in a local Total Wine & More to help pay off student loans. At that time, I was a practicing attorney who had zero experience with wine. For me it was, and continues to be, “discovery”. Each wine tells a story — about place, about geography, about weather, about people or family, about heritage, about the future — that is captivating.
There are also countless links between law and the alcohol business that add another layer of intrigue. Today, more than anything, I love sharing my passion for wine with others and seeing that same spark ignite interest in this journey of discovery.
JB: What has been the strangest moment/incident involving wine that you have experienced in your career?
ES: Recently, I led a tasting at Cadillac Wines in Fort Worth, Texas. This tasting was set up through our distributor and I had never visited the location before the event, but had heard they were known for carrying a nice assortment of high-end boutique wines.
When I arrived, I pulled into a Cadillac dealership. I was confused. There was a small sign upon entry that read “Cadillac Wines” and offered a direction to follow. I drove through the dealership and found no sign of anything related to wine. I Googled the shop again and, apparently, I was in the right place. I eventually parked and went inside to a beautiful showroom. Lots of luxury cars, no indication of wine.
Finally, as I walked towards the main reception area, I saw an incredible floor-to-ceiling wine cellar at the end of the hall. This 12’x20’ cellar was filled with unique and rare wines and is a destination for wealthy wine collectors. Now dazed and confused, I proceeded to taste through a selection of our wines with folks shopping for cars and loyal followers of the Cadillac Wines mailing list, right in the middle of the dealership. This was easily one of the strangest tasting experiences I’ve had in my career.
Published in 1955, a pleasure to read today
JB: Your favorite wine reference in a work of literature?
ES: I thoroughly enjoyed reading An Invitation to Wines, written by John Storm and published in 1955. This book was written as a guide to introduce “uncomplicated people” who “consume millions of gallons of wine without any folderol whatsoever — without purrings or posturings or poetic rhapsodies” to the world of wine. Widely outdated on many levels, it’s a glimpse into the post-Prohibition wine industry and how wine was perceived at the time. Interestingly, there are many parallel challenges observed by Storm that continue today. It an interesting and humorous read (the latter certainly not intended) that provides perspective into the world of wine that was and the challenges we face today.
There are times when nothing will do but a comforting dish from the past, from one’s childhood perhaps. Sausage, cheese, eggs, and bread might be in the mix.
This morning was one of those times. A Valentine’s Day-Presidents Day weekend brunch of a rustic casserole the cool weather brought to my memory.
And the smoked paprika covered it all …
It’s what I made.
The sausage slid from its casing in a sensual manner, and it sizzled in the pan, sizzled. Dry mustard, brioche buns, smoked paprika.
At the table, it sat on a wooden trivet.
The past was complete, at least of portion of the past. It was good.
The opportunity to taste a number of wines from a single producer in the same sitting is an enjoyable experience. It’s illuminating to sample, say, various vintages of the same wine, or compare several single-vineyard selections of Riesling (or Merlot) made by one winemaker.
Recently, I tasted four wines from the Carletti family, owners of Poliziano and Lohsa — the 2019 Rosso di Montepulciano DOC (SRP: $17); the 2017 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (SRP: $30); the 2017 Poliziano Asinone Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (SRP: $63); and the 2018 Lohsa Morellino di Scansano DOCG (SRP: $16).
I’ll start with this: each of these wines is worthy of consideration and consumption. You will enjoy drinking them, pairing them with food, and recommending them to friends.
Dino Carletti purchased the Poliziano estate in 1961 (54 acres at the time), and it’s now run by a son of his, Federico — whose children, Francesco and Maria Stella, are being groomed to join the enterprise.
In a 2014 interview, Carletti told BKWine Magazine’s Ulf Bengtsson, “My father was not very interested in wine making, so when I wanted to take over he just said, ‘go ahead, that’s the vineyard, here are the keys!’”
Federico Carletti (Courtesy Vendemmia International Wines)
That was 1980, and Carletti, who considers himself first and foremost a farmer (he has a degree in agriculture) has since expanded the estate — located in the commune of Montepulciano — to more than 640 acres. In all, Poliziano’s annual output exceeds 83,000 cases produced from 400 acres in Montepulciano, Cortona, and Maremma.
My tasting began with the Rosso di Montepulciano DOC, and I recall writing at the time that, “it’s a wine I would happily drink every day.” It’s 80 percent Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese in Montepulciano) and 20 percent Merlot. Great fruit here, grown at 280-350 meters above sea level, and a robust yet sprightly body. Cherry, of course, but also a bit of humus and bright berry. Tasting this made me feel lighter, happier.
Fermentation takes place in cement tanks, and aging (10 months) is done 50 percent in French oak and 50 percent in cement (2-4 months in the bottle). This wine (250,000 bottles produced per year, 13.5 percent alcohol) rewards a lack of patience, so drink it when you get it. Pairings? Hamburgers, lamb chops, basil pesto and farfalle.
Drink this with or without a lamb chop on the side.
We proceeded to the next bottle, the 2017 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG. (Note: We opened each of these wines after having chilled them in the refrigerator for 15 minutes.) Here, we have 85 percent Prugnolo Gentile, backed by Colorino and Canaiolo, along with a touch of Merlot.
I appreciated the interplay between the buoyant tannins and the shy floral notes in this wine, and want to revisit this vintage in three or four years. If I opened this bottle on a cold evening in November or December, I would love to pair it with wild boar. Fermentation takes place in large vats of French oak, and the wine is aged for 18-20 months in French oak (6-8 months in the bottle). Production is 200,000 bottles per year, and alcohol is 14 percent.
A noble bottle, fit for a meal of wild boar.
The third bottle in our tasting, what the Carletti family refers to as its flagship wine, was the 2017 Poliziano Vino Nobile di MontepulcianoAsinone DOCG. Asinone is the name of the vineyard from which the fruit here comes — its shape resembles a donkey’s back, hence the moniker. Poliziano’s first vintage from the 14-hectare plot was released in 1983 as Vigna Asinone Riserva, and in its present form was awarded Tre Bicchieri from Gambero Rosso.
This wine is 95 percent Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese), and 5 percent Canaiolo and Merlot. (Vino Nobile regulations require 70 percent Sangiovese only.) Production is 20,000 bottles a year, and fermentation takes place in French oak vats (6,000-8,000 liters in size). Aging: 20 months in French oak, 20 percent new; at least 8 months in bottle. Alcohol level is 14.5 percent.
Not many bottles of this wine are produced, but I urge you to find one.
This vintage was marked by heat, and as others have remarked, I found that the tannins lacked some integration. Dark cherry and soil shine here, and this wine lingers in the mouth, desirably so. The fruit’s quality is evident in this bottle. I would pair it — again — with wild boar, and a hearty beef stew would also be suitable. Hold until 2023, and I would love to taste this in 2040.
We now visit our final bottle from the tasting, the 2018 Lohsa Morellino di Scansano DOGC. Morellino is the name for Sangiovese in the Maremma region of Tuscany, and for my money, this bottle represents outstanding value. Poliziano ventured into Maremma in 1998 with this wine, and the deft hand of Carletti is amply evident in the bottle.
From Maremma, a Sangiovese with another name.
It’s 85 percent Sangiovese and 15 percent Ciliegiolo, and I really likes this wine. Morellino di Scansano possesses a wonderful herbaceous quality, and you’ll find that in this bottle. Bright cherry, humus, a harmonious light-bodied wine that is fun to drink. I made basil pesto this week, and would be delighted to pair it and penne with this wine.
It’s aged 10 months in French oak and cement tanks — 2-4 months in bottle — and 60,000 bottles are produced annually. Drink now, with gusto.
The vineyards of Poliziano tell the story of a family’s love for the land.
Federico Carletti, who in the past served as the president of the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (2008-2013), has guided his father’s purchase for decades now, and he has been producing wines that enhance one’s life. His enoteca in Montepulciano is a beautiful love letter to the region — make sure to pay it a visit when you are next in the area — and I look forward to tasting more of his family’s wines.
Historical note: Carletti’s father named the estate after Angelo Poliziano (1454-1494), a son of Montepulciano and scholar whose work was instrumental in the development of Renaissance Latin.
Calling all of my readers in Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, and New York City, especially those who like great food and wine and romance: A contest is on, and entering this one is a no-brainer. It involves wine, food, and romance, and a California winery. But there’s a catch: The deadline to enter this contest is Wednesday, February 10, so do not hesitate.
I’m talking about Jordan Vineyard & Winery’s #MyJordanValentine Date Night at Home Contest, and it’s really something you don’t want to pass up. All you need to do is share your love story on social media — Instagram, Facebook, or Twitter — and you could win a date night for two from a top restaurant in your city.
The chateau at Jordan: If you are anywhere near this piece of property, make plans to visit.
Jordan wants to help couples celebrate the perfect Valentine’s Day night at home while also supporting local restaurants during the COVID-19 pandemic. Share your photos and stories by tagging @jordanwinery and using the hashtag #MyJordanValentineHouston (or your city) — be sure to tell the Jordan team why you and your Valentine should win the contest.
On February 11, 15 date-night winners will be announced — these lucky lovers will enjoy a four-course meal from the participating restaurant of their choice, delivered to their homes during the Valentine’s Day weekend. (Check out all of the details and rules here.)
Here is the full list of restaurants taking part in the Jordan contest:
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