May 2018 — Mise en Place

When I found out I would be moving to Houston, back in 2013, I reached out to John T. Edge for some recommendations. I had seen a piece of his in Departures about the city’s food scene, and he told me to go to Underbelly and Himalaya (among other restaurants). About both of those places, I found out that John T. was resoundingly right. Himalaya soon became an addiction, and it still occupies a place in the top 5 on the Brockhaus Best Houston Restaurant List. As for Chris Shepherd’s Underbelly, one of my favorite things to do after work (I was the managing editor at the Houston Press at the time) was to take a seat at the bar, order a glass of wine, and get a dish of the Korean braised goat dumplings. Excellent food, friendly staff, beautiful restaurant, and I liked the wine list and its overseer.

Fast forward to last night, when Angela and I met some friends at UB Preserv, Shepherd’s new baby, a restaurant designed to, as the menu states, “preserve what we started at Underbelly.” Situated in the building that previously housed Poscol, UB Preserv, to judge by our dishes, is off to a great start. I arrived early, and took a seat at the bar. (Constance, a friend from Austin, told me a few weeks ago that Becca, to whom Constance had introduced me one evening at Drink.Well., the cocktail bar and gastropub at which Becca worked, was now living in Houston and behind the bar at UB Preserv, an added reason to make my inaugural visit to the restaurant.) I greeted her, and we talked a bit about Constance and Alison, then I asked her to make me her favorite drink on the menu. Good choice, that, because she served me the Billy Gibson, a nice mixture of dry gin and vermouth, fennel, and pickled onion. It’s what every Friday evening needs for a great beginning.

Dry gin and vermouth, pickled onion, and fennel: The Billy Gibson is a worthy cocktail.

Fatema and Wisam arrived around 7:30, so we sat at our table and waited for Angela, who was coming from downtown. Drinks were ordered, Angela arrived, and we got to the pleasure of ordering food. We started with the Crispy Rice Salad and the Pork Dumplings, the former a bowl of, yes, rice crisped perfectly, toothsome and possessing a comforting texture, plus a mix of herbs, tomatoes, cucumbers, and a vinaigrette made with serrano peppers. The dumplings were warm and moist, the pork was slightly tangy and rich, and the addition of fried shallots, soy, chilies, and black vinegar produced a miniature flavor bomb.

Like pork? Get these dumplings.

Wisam and Fatema ordered the Crawfish and Noodles, and Angela wanted the Vietnamese Short Rib Fajitas, at $65 a dish definitely meant to be shared, though we were sharing everything. It occupies a space on the menu with Smoked Bone-In Lamb Shoulder ($70), Texas Heritage Crispy Chicken ($68), and Whole Roasted Snapper ($54). The rib meat, from 44 Farms, is a thing of beauty, and its fat content will wow you. Such flavor alone would satisfy, but when you wrap the meat in a leaf of the lettuce it’s served with and then add some mint and cilantro, the next level is achieved. The flavors and textures mingle, and all is right with the world. The crawfish dish was, to my palate, less successful; the crustaceans were delicate and buttery, but I think I was wanting a touch more acid. The noodles are crispy, however, and this dish will please many.

The bonus of the evening? A bowl of collard greens that rank up there for me as some of the best I’ve had. The greens had been sliced razor-thin, and the broth was full of umami; we ate the greens with chopsticks and I drank the broth from the bowl when they were gone. Order these collards.

A pork broth and collard greens of righteous deliciousness.

The wine list is diverse and friendly; Teutonic Wine Company’s 2017 Pinot Noir Rosé will cost you $42, and a bottle of 2014 Müller-Catoir Scheurebe can be yours for $43. We went with a red blend from Tenuta di Trinoro, the 2015 Le Cupole ($54).

The 2015 Tenuta di Trinoro ‘Le Cupole’

The evening progressed, the place emptied out — when we left there were two guests sitting at a table with their food— and the experience had been much more than good. UB Preserv will, I predict, attract lots of diners, and carry on well what Shepherd and his team began at Underbelly.

It was meant to be, is what I now think. Angela and I were at Vinology, a wine bar in Houston, sampling a few vintages on a Sunday afternoon. I had a lot on my mind, because my colleagues and I at the Recipe for Success Foundation were putting together the myriad parts of three events, the largest of which, Delicious Alchemy: The Banquet, involved 100 guests, 10 chefs creating a 10-course meal, and wine pairings for each course. It is the foundation’s largest fundraiser of the year, and I wanted to do my part to make it a perfect event.

One component of that perfection: wine. I sought to select great wines to pair with each course, bottles that would fit the fun and elegant affair and complement the food, which included snapper and shrimp ceviche, branzino, duck leg, and lobster bisque. A diverse menu, one that posed certain difficulties when it came to pairings. In an episode of serendipity, the decision to stop by Vinology that day led to perfection, because Nathan Smith was there.

Nathan is with Rootstock Wines, whose portfolio I love, and Angela and I had the same idea at the same time: Rootstock, and Nathan, would be perfect partners for the foundation and Delicious Alchemy. I had met Nathan several years earlier, when he was with Marco Wiles’ group of restaurants, and I respected his palate and approach. We told him about the event, that it was Recipe for Success’ most important fundraiser of the year, and that I wanted to give our guests unique wines, wines that spoke confidently of their provenance. Nathan immediately went to work, contacting the owner of Rootstock, Ian McCaffery, who also liked the idea.

Angela and I met Nathan for dinner a week or so later, at Amalfi Ristorante Italiano & Bar, whose chef and owner, Giancarlo Ferrara, would be cooking at the event. We talked more about the dinner, its scope and timeline, and the chefs involved. I was in the final stages of compiling a complete menu, which, a week or so later, I shared with Nathan, and the rest is history. Nathan and Ian began reaching out to their producers, who came through with aplomb, and the fine people at Kermit Lynch also offered their services. After a lot of work and thought and gracious acts (special gratitude goes to Silvia Altare and Riccardo Sorbino), the wines, and food, were set, and they were, to my mind, perfect. See for yourself:

The menu for Delicious Alchemy: The Banquet is a thing of beauty.

Nathan Smith: I like his style. (Nick de la Torre/Houston Chronicle )

The day arrived — May 7 — and all was in order. Nathan came to the event venue — a beautiful home in the Memorial area in Houston — in the afternoon, to open bottles and taste and confer with the service staff about the wines. We tasted and talked about the selections, and Nathan poured for the chefs. Guests arrived, dinner began, and it all went oh so well. As I wrote, Delicious Alchemy: The Banquet, is our largest fundraiser, and this year’s edition, thanks to the support and largesse of the guests, donors, and partners, raised nearly $240,000.

I cannot say enough about these selections, and I urge you to find and taste them for yourself. If you are in Houston, Houston Wine Merchant and Vinology are two great sources for these wines.

Here are some tasting notes:

Arcari+Danesi Franciacorta Brut Dossagio Zero 2013
Giovanni Arcari and Nico Danesi are the new guard of Franciacorta, making it their mission to show the true soul of the wines of their beloved region. Instead of trying to imitate Champagne (which has been the norm in Franciacorta), Arcari and Danesi make their small-production Franciacorta with a method they call “solo uva” or ” grapes only”. This method results in an elegant and fresh style of “metodo classico” sparkling wine, a product that doesn’t have the oxidative qualities that you get when using sugar for secondary fermentation. This wine is brand new to the Texas market, but has been in high demand in the top wine markets of the world since its inaugural vintage. We couldn’t be more excited to have them as part of the Rootstock portfolio.

Region: Lombardia – Montorfano, Franciacorta
Grapes: Chardonnay 90%, Pinot Bianco 10%
Production: 11,000 bottles
Aged on lees: minimum 30 months
Soil: moranic, silt, clay
Importer: Rootstock

Campogrande Cinqueterre Bianco 2012
The story of wine in the Cinqueterre goes back to the times of the Roman Empire, when the terraced vineyards were built. The wines produced then were celebrated by kings, popes, and poets. Renowned Barolo producers Elio Altare and Antonio Bonanni have rediscovered the potential in the vineyards of this Unesco Heritage site that was once overgrown by forests. Two hundred meters above the Mediterranean, the ancient coastal varieties in this wine are grown on steep, terraced vineyards, and are painstakingly worked by hand – to produce but a few thousand bottles a year.

Region: Liguria – Cinqueterre
Grapes: Bosco and Albarola
Production: 5,600 bottles
Soil: sand, schist, limestone
Skin contact: 4 days
Importer: T. Edwards (donated by Silvia Altare)

Punta Crena ‘Vigneto Ca da Rena’ Pigato 2016
The tiny village of Varigotti sits on the Mediterranean, just a few rows of houses and restaurants on a pristine beach, with its back against steep hills. Climb up into the hills and you will discover neatly terraced vineyards on the slopes and in hidden clearings farther up on the peaks. The Ruffino family has been tending these vineyards for more than 500 years, hardly changing a thing as they pass their knowledge and wisdom from one generation to the next. These grapes come from just 1200 meters from the water and enjoy sea breezes that help keep them healthy and happy. Pigato is a genetic variation of Vermentino that developed around the 18th century and was probably named for its pighe—“freckles” in the local dialect, referring to its spotty skin. Pro tip: save a splash for your branzino!

Area: Liguria – Riviera Ligure di Ponente, Colline Savonesi
Grape: Pigato
Production: 10,000 bottles
Aged on lees: 3 months
Soil: rocky red clay
Importer: Kermit Lynch

Manni Nössing Südtirol Eisacktaler Grüner Veltliner 2015
Descended from a family of farmers, Manni Nössing has no formal training in viticulture or enology but seeks to learn from each vintage in order to produce wines that are capable of giving pleasure while also reflecting the terroir from which they originate. In 2000, he made the decision to start bottling his own wine instead of selling to a nearby co-op. Since then, he has increased his holdings to 5 hectares, all hillside vineyards at altitudes of 650 to 800 meters. Today, Manni is seen around the world as one of Südtirol’s top producers. Half of Manni’s Veltliner is fermented in acacia barrels, an alternative to oak, which adds roundness to this otherwise pristine, clean-cut white.

Region: Alto Adige (Südtirol) – Valle Isarco
Grape: Grüner Veltliner
Production: 12,000 bottles
Elevage: acacia, stainless steel
Soil: sand, granite
Importer: Kermit Lynch

Cascina Delle Rose Langhe Nebbiolo 2016
Cascina delle Rose’s three-hectare estate includes some of the best vineyards in the Rio Sordo Valley. This family operation (winery and agroturismo) has been producing world-class Barbaresco since 1948, They practice organic viticulture and traditional winemaking, using large, neutral barrels for their Barbaresco. This incredible Langhe nebbiolo is made from the same wine as their cru Barbarescos, the only difference being the oak and bottle aging. Classic pairing with butternut squash agnolotti and black truffles.

Region: Piemonte – Barbaresco
Grape: Nebbiolo
Production: 8-10,000 bottles (depending on vintage)
Elevage: Stainless Steel
Soil: calcareous, clay
Importer: La Famiglia Corona (donated by Riccardo Sorbino of Cascina delle Rose)

Sandro Fay Valtellina Superiore Valgella ‘Costa Bassa’ 2014
A fun juxtaposition to the Langhe nebbiolo, this nebbiolo from Valtellina (regionally called “chiavennasca”) has a very long history in northern Italy. In fact, Valtellina was the first region where nebbiolo was fermented dry. Sandro Fay is based in the small town of San Giacomo di Teglio and is widely regarded as one of the leading producers in the region. They sustainably farm 14 hectares, work organically, and harvest by hand. The nebbioli of Sandro Fay come from terraced vineyards and are most notably differentiated by the effects of altitude and exposure for each of the parcels. The fruit in the Costa Bassa comes from about 500 meters above sea level, and the wine shows lighter tannin and a fuller expression of fruit with balanced acidity.

Region: Lombardia – Valgella, Valtellina
Grape Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca)
Production: 16,000 bottles
Elevage: 12 months in neutral oak
Soil: sandy silt over limestone
Importer: Rootstock

Passopisciaro Passorosso 2015
Andrea Franchetti arrived on Mt. Etna in 2000 as one of the first of the modern wave of producers on the volcano. There, he found 70- to 100-year-old, bush-trained vines across the northern side of the volcano across a variety of optimal sites between 550 and 1,000 meters (1,800 to 3,300 feet) above sea level. The grapes are taken from various contrade (crus) of Malpasso, Guardiola, Santo Spirito, Favazza and Arcuria; generally, the higher crus are on a more gravelly soil, the lower ones in a deeper powder made with more oxidized, older lavas. Often compared to Burgundy and Nebbiolo these wines are really something all their own – offering red fruits, minerals, herbs, and the apparent aroma of the volcano in the glass.

Region: Sicilia – Mt. Etna
Grape: Nerello Mascalese
Production: 40,000 bottles
Elevage: large-format neutral oak
Soil: primarily gravelly soil and old lava flow
Importer: Rootstock

Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole 2015
Located in a remote corner of southeastern Tuscany, Tenuta di Trinoro specializes in rich, age-worthy red wines made of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. The 200-hectare estate sits in viticultural isolation in the Orcia Valley near Sarteano, where Tuscany meets Umbria and Lazio. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in one- to three-year-old barriques and cement, Le Cupole is velvety and approachable. Tenuta di Trinoro is the first project of Andrea Franchetti, and has an interesting connection to Houston. Andrea is the nephew of artist Cy Twombly, whose collection has its own building at the Menil. Andrea purchased this estate in Val D’Orcia after selling one piece of his uncle’s art!

Region: Tuscany – Val D’Orcia
Grapes: Cab Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot
Production: 57,000 bottles
Elevage: 8 months in neutral French barrique (1 to 3 years old)
Soil: Clay, Limestone, gravel
Importer: Rootstock

Meroi Verduzzo Friulano 2013
Coming from the westernmost part of Colli Orientali in Friuli, Meroi is a winery of great importance in the region. Damiano Meroi and his father make some of the area’s best red and white wines, as well as amazing dessert wines made from indigenous varieties. This wine is made from Verduzzo Friulano and is a traditional pairing with local desserts. Fun fact: Verduzzo is considered to be the most anti-oxidant of all grape varieties.

Region: Friuli – Colli Orientali
Grape: Verduzzo
Production: 2,500 bottles
Elevage: 30 months in used barrique
Soil: Eocenic marl (Ponca)
Importer: Rootstock

(Slideshow photos courtesy Michelle Watson)