Month: August 2017

Harvey Changes Houston, Forever

Millions of people in the Houston area will never again think of water, or rain, in the way they did a little less than a week ago. No, Houston is not the only place to have experienced the horrors of a flood, but it is a place that has seen too much water in the past several years. The Tax Day Flood. The Memorial Day Flood. Now Harvey. Who in Houston will want to name their child Harvey after this? Water, necessary for life though it may be, means something else now.

Thirty dead so far … each a giant loss to their loved ones. That number will most assuredly rise, and each time it does, a part of humanity will fade away. I am thankful that so few lives have thus far been lost, but one lost in this way is one too many. An estimated 300,000 to 400,000 residences in the Houston area are flooded, deserted out of necessity. We’ve all seen the heartbreaking — yet life-affirming — scenes of stranger rescuing stranger, a hand extended from a boat floating on what a few days earlier was dry land. Rescuers from New York and Louisiana and Mississippi and, yes, Houston, all here on a mission of mercy. I lived in New York City when the Twin Towers fell, and the spontaneous outpouring of grief, coupled with determined action to save, nurture, heal, and recover, was a process I thought I’d never again witness. It was, more to the point, something I hoped never to have to see again. But life, as a wise man said, is something that happens to you while you’re making other plans.

Plans. Plans have changed. For everyone now in Houston, for the residents of this sprawling place and temporary visitors on their missions of mercy. A friend of mine, a high school classmate whom I’ve seen once since 1982, is here. She’s with the Red Cross. She’s on her mission, all the way from Hawaii, where she lives. Another classmate has spent the past six days driving around the region helping others, first by boarding up doors and windows before Harvey hit, then by offering the stranded rides to safety. Members of the Houston culinary world — and what a special world it is — have been busy cooking around the clock, using whatever they had in their walk-ins and kitchens to feed people in need. That’s not to mention the local police and fire personnel, the EMT professionals, the doctors and nurses and animal shelter personnel … the list goes on and on, all helping those in need. The heart swells.

There are so many in need, and that need will persist for a long while. This is not, as we know now, your average storm followed by flood conditions. This is epic, in the most profound sense of that word. Rain falling steadily for days, enough to fill more than 30,000 Empire State Buildings. Where Harvey came ashore, in Rockport, Texas, hundreds of buildings demolished by the hurricane’s Category 4 winds. Then, the swirling, maddening, deadly, and slow progress of the system. As if it had a mind, it hovered over the Houston area, slowing to a crawl, unloading its fury. Its fury was water.

Yes, water’s meaning has changed for millions after Harvey, and so has the meaning of Houston. Those who live here, and many others across the nation, will never again think of Houston in the way they once did. Things have changed, forever, many for the worse. Lives shattered, families torn apart, beloved pets lost, lying lifeless or looking for their owners, homes in which children were raised ruined by water … all losses that speak with awful profundity of life’s vicissitudes.

But then. But then … there’s the better, the inexplicable and miraculous better. The magnificent power and fury of the human heart and spirit to act, to do something, to help, to soothe. That’s what Houston is showing the world now, as NYC did after 9/11. It’s Mattress Mack. It’s Houston Police Chief Art Acevedo. It’s Ronnie Killen donating $50,000 to help, feeding thousands for free. It’s the individuals risking their lives to save the others. It’s all of us, and we’ll never be the same.

No, the same is gone. Instead, we’ll be better. We’ll have to be, all of us — politicians, spiritual leaders, you, me, everyone — because the work to be done is monumental.

A Wine Library Evening: The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s

The Brockhaus is gearing up for a fall and winter full of inventive dishes and wines, and to kick off the season we’re excited to announce The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s, a seven-course dégustation set for September 25th. Tony’s is one of the finest restaurants around, and The Brockhaus is honored to be part of its 53-year ongoing story of excellence.

The Wine Library at Tony’s will be the stage for the evening; it’s an intimate and warm space, perfect for a leisurely and stimulating meal full of scintillating conversation. Click on the link below for the menu.

The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s

The Wine Library at Tony’s (Nick de la Torre)

Here’s what one of our guests wrote about his experience at The Brockhaus:

Thank you for an absolutely fantastic evening. The food was off the charts. We were amazed at the multiple layers of taste in each dish. I know you put a tremendous amount of work into the prep and cooking of the meal … it was apparent in the taste. We also enjoyed the company of your guests. It was a most engaging evening of conversation.

Another wrote: Such an exciting night to share with so many great dinner companions. I can’t stop thinking about the incredible menu.

Click here for more about The Brockhaus, and we hope to see you on the 25th.

What: The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s
When: Monday, September 25
Tariff: $175
For details, and to reserve a seat: The_Brockhaus (at) iCloud.com

 

A Frittata For Emma: Cooking This Will Make You Happy (Plus, Wine, Music, and Foie Gras)

Buddy and Emma (far right) Sullivan, with Maruja and Pepita in the 1950s.

Brooklyn Heights, 2004. That’s the year I met Emma Sullivan and her cousins Maruja and Pepita. Emma owned The Long Island Restaurant, one door down from our apartment on Atlantic Avenue. I was in the restaurant often. It was (and still is) a beautiful time-capsule of a place, booths and wooden bar, photographs of Buddy — Emma’s late husband — and other family members behind the bar, a manual cash register that made me smile when Emma opened it. The sound was comforting. It was a warm and gentle room.

Emma closed up shop in 2007; she and Buddy had taken it over in 1956. Hers was a 51-year run of countless conversations and days and nights making guests feel at home. I miss walking into her restaurant, and probably always will. (The space was reopened in 2013, after Emma leased it to a pair of worthy guys. Next time you are in Brooklyn, pay them a visit.)

I wrote this week about Emma and her cousins and The Long Island Restaurant for PaperCity magazine, and included a frittata recipe based on that special woman and her cousins. You might like to make the dish one morning, or night. Think of Emma — or someone whose life is special to you — when you do.

Like good music and wine, plus some tasty crab cakes? If so, and you find yourself in Missouri City, Texas, check out B’s Wine Bar. Angela and I were there last night, and the band was hot, the crowd stylish and fun, and the staff welcoming and obviously excited about their work.

Drink some wine here in Missouri City, Texas. (Courtesy D-Mars.com)

Angela and I were seated in the wine room, just the two of us at a quaint table, the kind one finds in parks in Paris. We talked and drank and laughed and found a place new to us to which we’ll return. (Thanks for the recommendation, Kennady.)

How’s this for a transition: I love foie gras. I’ve eaten it in Spain, in Dubai, in Paris, in New York, in Italy, in New Delhi, and, most recently, last week in Houston. It’s from Hudson Valley Foie Gras, and it’s prepared in a wonderful way. Take a look at this:

That’s Foie Gras alla Fiamma, newly added to the tasting menu at Tony’s, and it’s good. Order it and savor the preparation process. There’s Moscato and a vanilla bean and a grape, and it’s served with toasted farro. Sensual, delicious, decadent.

Restaurant Weeks NYC and Houston, and Chicken Paprikash: Summer Is Winding Down

New York City, 1995. I had arrived a few months earlier to begin a new job with a newspaper, and was visiting restaurants and bars that had been on my list for a long while. Sign of the Dove. La Grenouille. Elaine’s. Le Veau d’Or. McSorley’s. So many more, some long gone, others still thriving, pleasing guests night after night, attracting people from around the world to the streets and avenues of New York. That summer, I participated in NYC Restaurant Week; we made a few reservations at select places, and had (mostly) good experiences. It was a pleasure to sit and watch out-of-towners eat — I had already become a New Yorker, at least in my heart and mentality — and it felt good. The tables were ours. The latest version of NYC Restaurant Week runs through August 18, giving you 12 more days to pay $29 for lunch or $42 for dinner at places including Porsena, Hearth, Lupa, and ABC Kitchen. If you can, go.

La Grenouille, around since 1962.

Houston Restaurant Weeks (HRW) is also upon us, and it features 277 establishments giving a portion of their proceeds from special menus ($45 dinner, $20 lunch, with some exceptions) to the Houston Food Bank to help feed the hungry. I’ve tasted from some of the offerings, and will surely get to more, and encourage everyone to make some reservations. Go to a place you might not otherwise. Hunger is no laughing matter, and Houston is full of people who don’t know where their next meal will come from. Do some good, have some fun, and tip well.

Want some suggestions for HRW? Amalfi Ristorante Italiano & Bar and Sud Italia are home to some good pasta and proteins, and a visit to Ginger & Fork will introduce you to mushrooms and rice noodles that are not to be missed.

When you’re out and about during HRW, you’ll be wanting some wine to pair with your meals. Why not make it a full evening and have a glass of Rosé as an apéritif? Stoller Family Estate has produced one that I like (click here to read about it), but the Pink Universe is large, so you’ll have no difficulties choosing a good bottle. In addition, many of the restaurants participating in HRW have selected wines they think pair well with their menus, an easy opportunity for you to taste something new.

Tomatoes and Wagyu done well

Speaking of new, a dish was added to the menu at Tony’s last week, and it’s something you’ll want. The Carpaccio di Pomodoro is tomato and Wagyu heaven, and I featured it in a piece for PaperCity on my (current) Dream Team of dishes in Houston. You can read about it here. (There’s also some great tacos and pasta on my team.)

 

For those of you wanting a hearty meal at home, I offer Chicken Paprikash. I cooked it on Sunday, and based it on the recipe featured by Sam Sifton in The Times. Use a combination of sweet and hot smoked paprika, and make sure to go with bone-in chicken. Cooking it is simple — you’ll have to brown the chicken in a Dutch oven for a few minutes — and when the smokiness of the paprika meets the sour cream, your evening will be set. Pair your Paprikash with a bottle of this Pinot Noir and a salad of mixed greens, and the picture is complete.

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