Category: The Brockhaus (Page 1 of 2)

Meatballs and Cauliflower a Comforting Casserole Make

I often share images of dishes that I make, and since early March of this year, I have been posting them on Facebook under the title Lockdown Kitchen at The Brockhaus.

Almost as often, I am asked to share recipes of the dishes, something I don’t do as often as I’d like to. Well, I am going to rectify that, beginning with this piece.

For a week or so, I have been meaning to use a cauliflower I bought about 10 days ago. I like to roast the cruciferous vegetable, and I recently sautéed some florets and served them in a pasta dish. This time, however, I did something different.

With this head of cauliflower, I made a casserole, adapted from a recipe I found in the Los Angeles Times (link here). Ben Mims wrote it, and here’s how I made the dish (feel free to use separate baking gratins if you wish):

Ingredients

1 head cauliflower
salt, fresh black pepper
1 pound ground beef (or lamb, pork, or a mixture of the three)
1 medium white onion, chopped
4 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons EVOO
1.5 cups whole milk (or preferably, 2 cups heavy cream)
3 cups cheese
red chili flakes to taste (optional)

  • Heat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Trim the head of cauliflower and separate it into bite-size florets (wash them before cooking, of course). Put one cup of water in a large skillet over medium heat, season with salt and pepper, and add florets. Cover and bring to a boil for 2-3 minutes, uncover and stir. Cook for 4 minutes more.
  • Place florets in large baking dish. In same skillet, sautée onion in olive oil until soft. Add onions to cauliflower in baking dish.
  • Using your fingers, separate beef — 80 lean/20 fat — (I’m going to use lamb next time, and pork would work as well) into small pieces — think the size of a dime — and then spread Dijon mustard over the beef. Add some some salt and pepper, and if you want to replicate my recipe, squirt a tablespoon or two of Sriracha over the mixture. You might also throw in some diced peppers (Serrano, jalapeño … or). Mix well, but do not overheat your meat. (Here is where I added the chili flakes.)
Beef, Dijon mustard, Sriracha sauce, and salt and pepper
  • Make meatballs. I followed Mims’ recipe and rolled walnut-size meatballs. Arrange them on top of the cauliflower florets.
  • I was out of cream, so I used whole milk in this step. Poured about 1.5 cups over the meatballs and cauliflower. I would have preferred cream, or at least half-and-half. However, the results were more than satisfactory using milk.
Comfort food
  • I had Cheddar and mozzarella on hand, so that’s what I used. Mims calls for 3 cups, and I concur. But you can add more if you wish. Never less. I grated the Cheddar over the top of the mixture, and tore the mozzarella into small pieces and distributed them evenly in the baking dish.
  • Put dish into the 450F oven, and bake for 15 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add about 2 .5 cups of Panko breadcrumbs to the oil, and stir well. Cook until toasted. Season with salt and pepper.
  • Remove dish from oven, spread Panko over the top of the cauliflower and meatballs in an even layer, and cook for another 10 minutes or so, until the top is browned and crisp.
  • Remove your dinner from the oven and allow it to sit for 5 minutes.
It is done …
A Pinot Noir from the Sta. Rita Hills AVA was a great pairing.

I served this in bowls with a handful of baby arugula nestled on top. We drank a Pinot Noir (a 2017 from Alma Rosa) with it. The evening was a good one.

The Brockhaus Cooks a Birthday Feast High Above Houston, Theodore Rex Has Great Taste, and Wine Families of Italy

The Brockhaus returned in late July, to cook 41 floors above Houston in a penthouse apartment near River Oaks. I donated a dinner for four as an auction item at The Catastrophic Theatre’s annual gala, and the winning bidder decided to host a birthday feast for a friend, a Brockhaus Birthday.

I came up with a six-course tasting menu that included a tomatillo and cucumber gazpacho (perfect for a hot Houston evening), seared scallops and corn and tomatillo salsa, and ribeye. Alyssa Dole, a pastry chef who lives in Houston, contributed the dessert, a charred-tomato panna cotta with brûléed cherries and kadaif. I want to see her dessert on the menu of a Houston restaurant, because it is a fine dish, full of texture and flavor and one that satisfies all of one’s senses.

This dessert deserves to be enjoyed by the (discriminating) masses. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

I prepped the gazpacho and the dough for the Uovo in Ravioli the night before, and the pork belly was brined for three days. On Saturday, Alyssa made the ravioli, I took care of the risotto and the sauces for the Caesar salad, and all went well.

Here’s the menu:

THE BROCKHAUS

A Birthday Feast / Saturday, July 28, 2018

Houston, Texas

TOMATILLO & CUCUMBER GAZPACHO

SCALLOPS / CORN SALSA

UOVO IN RAVIOLI

PORK BELLY / PEA RISOTTO

GRILLED CAESAR SALAD (Ribeye from Meats by Linz)

CHARRED-TOMATO PANNA COTTA

The course starring the ribeye (Grilled Caesar Salad) featured charred romaine and a traditional olive oil-based sauce featuring garlic and anchovies. I cooked the ribeye at 175 Fahrenheit after searing it on the stovetop, a method I love. The steaks were dry-aged for 55 days.

A great piece of meat. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

Romaine and ribeye make a wonderful pair. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

Here are some other images from the dinner:

The flame, and a touch of sugar, transforms the flavor. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

Put some romaine on a flame and taste. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

Berkshire belly brined for three days, then cooked at 375 Fahrenheit. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

Ravioli ready for the water. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

Finishing ravioli in boiling water. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

Rich pasta, egg yolk, pancetta … in broth, oil, and butter. (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

Ravioli in Uovo (Photo by Yoav Horesh)

The Brockhaus will return soon, so stay tuned to this space for details.

I have had the pleasure of dining at Theodore Rex a number of times in the past several months, and Justin Yu and his team are doing it well. There’s a dish of rice and beans that will move you, and the restaurant’s version of a Paris-Brest belongs in the Pantheon of Houston dishes. The wine list is thoughtful, as well, and you won’t find the service anything but exemplary. Here’s a review I wrote of Theodore Rex. Get a reservation, and let me know what you think.

Tomato Toast: One of the fine dishes at Theodore Rex.

Like a good Croque Madame? I do, and if you are in Houston, I’ve got one to recommend. It’s at Café Poêtes. Read about it here. And when it comes to wine, family and Italy are the themes this week. The Inamas and the Castagnedis produce great things, and if you have not tasted their offerings you’re missing something special. Here’s a look at the Inamas (think Soava and Carménère), and read this to get to know the Castagnedi brothers.

A family of wine. (Courtesy Azienda Agricola Inama)

A Wine For Your Mother, And You — Plus, Some Fine Rum Distilled in Texas, and The Brockhaus Returns

There are times, when working on stories, that one comes across individuals who make an immediate impact. That impression and experience can, of course, be good and enriching, or it can be upsetting and frustrating. Both types of encounters provoke thought, in different ways, and while discourse with and exposure to jerks and zero-sum people can provide one with a level of amusement, I much prefer dealing with and learning from unselfish, self-secure subjects, people for whom life is a rollicking adventure, men and women confident enough to know that there is always something new to learn and that being kind and giving does not lead down the road to mediocrity. The world is a better place because of these types, and would, I am confident, be much more rewarding if the zero-sum cohort disappeared with haste.

I recently had the pleasure of meeting with and/or talking to individuals — both in the beverage industry  — who make the lives of those around them better. They are passionate about their craft, they display infectious enthusiasm about what they are doing, and they are clearly and genuinely interested in what others do. They are worth knowing.

This woman makes some fine rum. (Courtesy Railean Distillers)

 

I’m referring to Kelly Railean and Joe Donelan (click on their names for additional words about them and what they do). I met Railean in December at her distillery in San Leon, Texas, took a tour of her workshop, and sampled her wares. I recommend you do the same. I have spoken with Donelan on the phone several times, each conversation thoughtful and attentive. The Brockhaus is partnering with Donelan Family Wines on an upcoming dinner benefitting an animal-welfare and shelter charity, a direct result of that pointed disavowal of the zero-sum mentality. In December, I had the pleasure of tasting Donelan’s 2014 Nancie Chardonnay, named after Joe’s mother, and it’s drinking well now. He’s built a business in California that honors his passions and his family, and, as has Railean, he’s added joy to the lives of many along the way.

Good people, making good things, doing good. I hope you have a multitude of such people in your life, and I hope you steer clear of that sad zero-sum trap.

Want more stories about wine and spirits and the people who make them? Read on:

A Chardonnay For Your Mother (and You)
Don’t Dismiss the Peat
Distinctive Whisky Enters a New Era
A Whisky Legend Visits Houston
A Rare Cask, Indeed
Austin Whisky, Strange Name
Here’s Your Texas Rum Goddess
A ZaZa Wine Guy Loves Great Service
A Merlot That Your Snob Friend Will Love
French Couple Make a Sauvignon Blanc in California
A Perfect Afternoon Chardonnay
Terry Theise Talks Reisling
A New Wine Wonderland
Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Rice Village Wine Bar Has a Cleveland Touch
A Texas White Blend for Your Table
A Pinot Noir Full of Flavor
This Pinot Gris From Oregon Pairs Well With Cheese
Willamette, Dammit!
A Value Rioja
Drink Pink!
Underbelly Veteran Goes for Grenache
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life

Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

 

Hamachi and Langoustine, Plus Dierberg and Star Lane: The Brockhaus Cooked at Tony’s

The menu had been set for a few weeks, and the wines had arrived, shipped overnight from California. The Brockhaus was cooking at Tony’s.

My mind was, partially, in Berlin and Roanne while planning the dinner’s menu. Berlin because of two meals experienced on consecutive days in 2016 at Restaurant Tim Raue, and Roanne thanks to a documentary about Maison Troisgros and that great family of food. Dishes featuring langoustine and salmon, the former created by Raue, the latter by the famed French family. Austin Waiter, Tony’s chef de cuisine, and I had tweaked the methods and ingredients, and all was a go.

We cured Norwegian sea trout, covered the langoustine in corn starch, prepped the brioche and figs and hamachi. The kitchen at Tony’s was full of activity, as it always is. The pastry station was abuzz, the waiters were polishing cutlery and plates, and deliveries were arriving. Austin was working on the wasabi cream, and I was prepping the langoustine. All was on schedule. It was Monday, the 25th of September.

Hamachi awaits its sorrel

Hamachi awaits its sorrel

Norwegian trout cures

Norwegian trout cures

Twelve guests, nine wines. Kennady Cosby, the bar manager, had created a lavender-based cocktail that would begin the evening at 6:30 in the bar. Russ and Judy would be at the table, as would Jared and Cheryl, all regular Brockhaus patrons. New guests were on the list as well. It would, as always, be an eclectic and vibrant table.

Tony Vallone, the owner of Tony’s, had asked me several times if I wanted to hold a Brockhaus evening at his restaurant, and I finally accepted the generous (and somewhat intimidating) offer. Vallone, who also owns Ciao Bello and Vallone’s, has been the force behind Tony’s for more than 50 years, and he and his wife, Donna, have created something special in Houston. Tony’s is my favorite restaurant in Houston, is among my favorite places in the world, and it was an honor to cook in the kitchen there. A great honor.

The table is set …

The Wine Library at Tony’s (Nick de la Torre)

The venue was the Wine Library, an intimate space lined with walls of great vintages and anchored by a round table with seats for 12. Angela, one of The Brockhaus’ creators, had been relieved of her duties that evening, and would for the first time be a guest at the table.

At 6:30 sharp, I checked on the bar, and a few of our guests were mingling and sipping their cocktails. Angela was hosting, and, prep over, Austin and I finalized the plating. Wines were chilling, and the table was set.

Green tomato soup, Norwegian trout, and dill oil

Green tomato soup, Norwegian trout, and dill oil

Wasabi Langoustine

Wasabi Langoustine

Austin Waiter and James Brock

Austin Waiter and James Brock

A little after 7 p.m. we ushered the group to the Wine Library. Carlos poured the first wine, a Crémant from Alsace, and the meal began. The conversation at the table flowed, along with the wine. Jared, Russ, Judy, and Cheryl spoke of their past Brockhaus experiences, and the first-time guests added their personalities and contributions.

Austin and I greeted the diners, and the courses progressed. Burrata and prosciutto, cold tomato soup and trout, foie in a hole, hamachi and sorrel, pork belly and duck breast with chanterelle and maitake.

I had partnered with Dierberg and Star Lane vineyards — if you are not acquainted with their wines, make it a point to buy a few bottles — and the pairings were inspired.

Around 11 or so, dessert finished, the guests rose to leave, smiling, talking, and hugging. The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s was done.

Stay tuned for news about the next event …

A Wine Library Evening: The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s

The Brockhaus is gearing up for a fall and winter full of inventive dishes and wines, and to kick off the season we’re excited to announce The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s, a seven-course dégustation set for September 25th. Tony’s is one of the finest restaurants around, and The Brockhaus is honored to be part of its 53-year ongoing story of excellence.

The Wine Library at Tony’s will be the stage for the evening; it’s an intimate and warm space, perfect for a leisurely and stimulating meal full of scintillating conversation. Click on the link below for the menu.

The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s

The Wine Library at Tony’s (Nick de la Torre)

Here’s what one of our guests wrote about his experience at The Brockhaus:

Thank you for an absolutely fantastic evening. The food was off the charts. We were amazed at the multiple layers of taste in each dish. I know you put a tremendous amount of work into the prep and cooking of the meal … it was apparent in the taste. We also enjoyed the company of your guests. It was a most engaging evening of conversation.

Another wrote: Such an exciting night to share with so many great dinner companions. I can’t stop thinking about the incredible menu.

Click here for more about The Brockhaus, and we hope to see you on the 25th.

What: The Brockhaus Cooks at Tony’s
When: Monday, September 25
Tariff: $175
For details, and to reserve a seat: The_Brockhaus (at) iCloud.com

 

We Drank Canned Wine, Tried Doughnut Sliders, Opened a Chardonnay … and What Fine Pastas

You go from table to table, hoping for memorable tastes and flavors, food prepared well, made with thought and care. There’s something edifying about the act of finding it, sharing it with others, appreciating it. You’ve learned to deal with the moments when the taste and flavors do not deliver, when shrimp is overcooked and enchiladas taste like sawdust and not much more, when this food writer or that restaurant reviewer lauds the cuisine of the latest farm-to-table restaurant or poke mecca and you wait a month to try it and find it lackluster at best. Taste is subjective, after all, isn’t it? One man’s bland bowl of borscht is another’s Proustian interlude, no? Those disappointing meals serve to whet your appetite for the next pleasurable repast, as vexing as they might be.

Recently, the good moments have come with satisfying regularity, the pastas done well, the branzino pleasing, the (yes) spicy tofu all that tofu can and should be. You looked on and listened as your friend (and Brockhaus sous chef) Chris savored the rigatoni bianco Bolognese you knew he would love, his sighs audible. Yes, it’s been a good week or two at the table in Houston, days that included a brunch at Tony Mandola’s Gulf Coast Kitchen that featured doughnut sliders that were just what I needed at the time, though I was unaware of the need before I tasted them. (Click here for a look.) The sweet and savory plate is a grand antidote to a night of celebration.

To that Bolognese, which has been my favorite pasta in Houston for a few months now. It’s at Tony’s, and if you have not tried it, you are missing something you shouldn’t.

I have a feeling that Marcella Hazan would have loved this. It’s rigatoni with a Bolognese bianco sauce.

I was hooked the first time I tried this dish; it’s complex, speaks of hours in the pot, the simmering and melding of the meat and vegetables and breaking down of the parts into a whole that transports. Each ingredient retains its place of pride — look at the carrots, their shape exact and right — but the technique that goes into making this course creates a tour de force of rich and subtle flavors, something full of rustic gusto and refined grace. Appreciate the saltiness of the cheese and the acidity of the olive oil. If all goes well, you’ll have this more than once.

Wine was also fine during these days and nights, and we even enjoyed some in cans. An unoaked Chardonnay and a red blend (Zinfandel, Syrah, and Merlot) from Ron Rubin Winery did us good, and we paired a Chardonnay from Mitsuko’s Vineyard with chèvre and bread.  (Ray Isle recently tasted some canned wines as well, and his review of them is a good read.)

If you can find a bottle of this, open it and drink.

During a dinner at the home of Russ and Judy Labrasca, Angela and I were treated to a 1997 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon, and a ’96 from Saddleback, the latter a lovely bottle, mellowed into a dream, the former drinking well though expressing charms of a more typical manner. Russ and Judy are a couple — Angela met them when she worked in Dallas, and introduced them to me not long after I arrived in Houston — I consider myself honored to know, friends without parallel. We drank those wines with hamburgers and Judy’s customary spread, and it was good.

With friends like these, one needs nothing more.

Houston Restaurant Weeks is upon us, the annual event that has done so much good for so many people in need of a square meal since it was founded, back in 2003. I sampled a few HRW menus this week, and came across another worthy pasta and a branzino of note, both on the menu at Amalfi Ristorante Italiano & Bar. The pasta, a tortelli, is filled with Asiago, potatoes, and pancetta, and served with beef short ribs. Tender, al dente pasta, top-notch cheese and pancetta, and, OK, the short rib is wonderful. The sea bass, my favorite item on Amalfi’s HRW menu, is accompanied by potato gnocchi, roasted artichoke, and a lemon cream sauce. Sea, lemon, olive oil, gnocchi … try these, and donate $7 to the Houston Food Bank in the process.

Let’s see what comes next …

The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming Served It Forth

The lobsters had been prepped, the dessert (ginger ice cream and Edna Lewis’s Very Good Chocolate Cake) was ready, and Chris and I were discussing plating. It was Saturday, November 12, and The Brockhaus was making another appearance in Montrose, cooking in the house where its Houston chapter began, back in September 2014. At 3 p.m., and all was well. It turned out to be a homecoming worth savoring.

The Brockhaus

The guests would arrive at 7, and we’d serve them some Champagne and a chance to chat before dinner. (Judy and Russ and hosts Jared and Caroline were Brockhaus veterans, but the other attendees were new to us, and one another.) The porch overlooking the pool was the perfect spot for mingling.

The Brockhaus

Norma and Gary and Melanie — our team for the evening, from The Culinary Institute LeNôtre — were on the way. (Their work was instrumental to the evening; a kitchen is only as good as its team … there’s no room for deadwood, something that was drilled into me at Amador and Arzak.) Chris and I went over the schedule one final time, divided the tasks, and continued prepping, I taking care of the crab cakes, Chris dealing with the Billi Bi components. Angela entered the scene and began her planning.

The hours — as they always do — flew by, and the evening progressed. The guests talked and drank, the kitchen ran smoothly, and the plating and service hummed. The conversation emanating from the table flowed, the wines (selected by Jeremy Hart, of Banville Wine Merchants) pleased. All was as it should be in that bungalow in Montrose. The courses went out on time — the lobster and ribeye were highlights — and 11:30 arrived without a hitch. Quail, crab cakes, tuna, ginger ice cream … we thank our guests and partners, including Chantal, whose products we love to use.

Until next time, here are some images of The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming (November 12, 2016):

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The Brockhaus Returns to its (Houston) Beginnings: November 12 Marks a Montrose Homecoming

It’s a house in the Montrose section of Houston, the home of dear friends. It’s a lovely place, with a pool and lots of art. And it was the venue for The Brockhaus’s premiere evening, back in September of 2014. Eight guests, engaging and stimulating conversation, lots of laughter, and, of course, food and wine. We attracted a bit of attention, made some new friends, and went on to stage dinners on Nantucket, in the Galleria area, in the Heights of Houston, near Dallas, and, back in Houston, in Memorial (evenings in two homes there). May 7 was the date of the most recent event, and 10 guests gathered around the table then. There were truffles and lobster and, again, some great wines.

The First Supper menu

The First Supper menu

That house in Montrose kept calling to me, and now it’s time for a return engagement. On November 12, The Brockhaus will cook again at the bungalow, in what will be a homecoming of sorts, a homecoming and an evening in honor of late chefs and cooks who have inspired us. We’ll remember Charlie Trotter and Fernand Point, Julia Child and Edna Lewis, plus Craig Claiborne and Michel Richard. Their lives and passions, and their approach to food. This is an homage, a celebration, not a re-creation. The menu was inspired by these greats, and it’s a progression of courses that we are certain would please them all.

Snapper

Snapper, zucchini agrodolce

Without further ado, the menu (and as always, there will be surprises):

THE BROCKHAUS HOMECOMING
November 12, 2016

1.
Billi Bi
Craig Claiborne

San Salvatore “Pian di Stio” Campania 2015 (Fiano) — Special bottling of Fiano in a 500-ml bottle, back-to-back Tre Bicchieri from Gambero Rosso.  Imagine a crisp mineral-driven white with the secondary notes of young Sherry.

2.
Butter-Poached Lobster 
Charlie Trotter

Terlano “Nova Domus” Alto-Adige 2008 Magnum (60 percent Pinot Bianco, 30 percent Chardonnay, 10 percent Sauvignon) — The winery has produced this stellar blend since 1893. It’s a  wine built to age.  .

3.
Corn Nugget Crab Cakes
Michel Richard

Michele Satta Viognier Bolgheri 2013 — A Tuscan from the man who planted some of the most famous vineyards in the world.  An incredible  Viognier with broad appeal.

4.
Quail in Champagne
Fernand Point

Pietro Cassina “Ca’ daj Tàss” Coste delle Sesia DOC 2011 — Super-soft style of Nebbiolo from Lessona in northwest Piedmont.

5.
Wagyu Ribeye with Chimichurri
Julia Child

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casato “Prime Donne” Brunello di  Montalcino 2010 ~ First-all female winery in Italy, a silky/complex style of Brunello; the winery is in (far) north Montalcino. Special blend assembled by five women hailing from four different countries. The 2010 is considered the best one ever (so far).

6.
Very Good Chocolate Cake
Edna Lewis

Tolaini “Valdisanti”  2011 (75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 percent Sangiovese 5 percent  Cabernet Franc) — Michel Rolland and Diego Bonato made this Super Tuscan in a specific part of Chianti Classico famous for producing powerful reds.

The Brockhaus is pleased to be partnering with Jeremy W. Hart,  regional manager for Banville Wine Merchants.  I have enjoyed talking with Jeremy about wines, and know you will, too. He’s based in Houston, and covers Texas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Colorado, and recently announced a wine-and-dining tour that will take place in several cities. Live and Let Dine will feature dinners at Commander’s Palace, Italic, Galatoire’s, Hunky Dory, June’s, and many more.  Go to liveandletdinetour.com for further information. The Brockhaus is looking forward to experiencing Live and Let Dine.

$145 per person/wine pairing with each course/mirth/new friends

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A Truffled Affair in Houston Continues The Brockhaus Project

The weather was glorious, perfect for the Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut that was served in the back garden to guests as they arrived, on time at 7. Sun warm and lowering on the horizon, the air dry, a slight breeze blowing. The kitchen was full of activity, the table was set, and The Brockhaus: A Truffled Affair was under way.

May 7

Eight guests … sipping Franciacorta while waiting on the final two diners.

We were partnering with Diane Roederer, the owner of  DR Delicacy, and cooking with some of her company’s wares — morels and summer truffles on this occasion. We started with raviolo and egg, plus truffle, then eased into butter-poached lobster. Snapper came next, topped with zucchini and mint, blessed with an agrodolce. A surprise course of scallop and a bacon/cream sauce followed, then came morel stuffed with foie gras. The next course was short rib over Acquerello risotto, and truffle. We ended the meal with bacon ice cream and a peanut tuile. Wines were our usual selections: value-priced bottles, not served for wow factor, but paired in a logical and confident manner. They hailed from Alsace, Tuscany, Sonoma, and a few other locales, and they were worthy pours.  A kitchen alive with orderly activity, a round table full of talk and smiles: That’s a beautiful combination.

Chris and I had begun prepping that morning, sitting down over our menu and devising a schedule, dividing the tasks. We filleted the snappers and broke down the lobsters, cleaned the morels and made the pasta dough. It was clockwork, and  fun. He and I have shared a kitchen on many occasions, beginning in Abu Dhabi, and I never tire of cooking with him. (I had made the dessert and cooked the short ribs the day before, so by the time the rest of the crew arrived we were in great shape for the service.)

And what a crew! Norma, Henri, and Aniva — the former a student at Culinary Institute LeNôtre, the latter two French interns at River Oaks Country Club — took over at the sink, washing and drying the myriad wine glasses and helping with the prep. Angela and Anna, two Brockhaus stalwarts, arrived later in the day and assumed their roles, which include hostessing, plating, and general troubleshooting. Diane took care of some last-minute logistics and presented the morels and truffles for my approval.

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The first course was to be served at 8 p.m., so Chris and I began rolling out the pasta dough and making the raviolo. Seven courses flew by, wines were opened and poured, courses went to table. Before we knew it, midnight arrived, and with it the departure of the guests.

Stay tuned for the next appearance of  The Brockhaus.

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The Brockhaus Returns For A Truffled Affair on May 7

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Hands on the ribeye at The Second Coming

It’s complete, the Brockhaus menu for May 7. Hosted by Diane Roederer, the owner of  DR Delicacy, A Truffled Affair will commence at 7 o’clock with sparkling wine and conversation. We’ll present a menu inspired  by the season and the goodness brought to Houston by Diane.

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The Brockhaus: A Truffled Affair

Uovo in Raviolo / Truffle

Butter-Poached Lobster / Truffle 

Gulf Red Snapper / Zucchini Agrodolce / Chilies / Mint

Morel Foie Gras Farci / Truffle / Demi Glace

Short Rib / Polenta / Truffle

Bacon Semifreddo / Pine Nut Tuile

($145 per person, including a wine paired with each course)

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If you have been to a Brockhaus event (click here for a look at some of our evenings), you know there will be a surprise or two during the meal. It’ll be a seven-course tasting menu – therein the first surprise — and the talk around the table will be lively and engaging. You’ll meet some interesting people, and perhaps close the evening out with some new friends.

Space is limited; to reserve your seat, fill out the form below. We look forward to seeing you on May 7.

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Judy, Brockhaus CIO Angela, and co-host Caroline at The First Supper

 

 

 

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