Category: Champagne

A Very Proper Sparkling: Nyetimber Classic Cuvée

I am not the first person to advise that one should have at least one bottle of Champagne or sparkling wine in one’s refrigerator at all times. Even in periods — or perhaps especially in periods — of prolonged exposure to one’s home environment devoid of outside visitors, a bottle or two of bubbles at the ready is a must.

At the moment, I have a Cava and a sparkling wine from California in my ice box, chilling for a late-afternoon toast or a brunch of poached eggs and asparagus, the latter of which brings to my mind an anecdote conveyed by M.F.K. Fisher that took place on a train during a journey with her “kindly, urbane uncle”. She was 19 years old, and the exchange took place in the train’s restaurant car. Her uncle asks her if she would prefer a “a fresh mushroom omelet or one with wild asparagus.”

When she mumbles in “shy ignorance” that she doesn’t really care, he firmly reprimands her: “You should never say that again, dear girl. It is stupid, which you are not. It implies that the attentions of your host are basically wasted on you. So make up your mind, before you open your mouth. Let him believe, even if it is a lie, that you would infinitely prefer the exotic wild asparagus to the banal mushrooms, or vice versa. Let him feel that it matters to you … and even that he does!”

I would prefer the wild asparagus, and though it was not a wild bunch, asparagus is what I paired one day recently with a bottle of sparkling wine from England, Nyetimber’s Classic Cuvée. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier from the house’s vineyards and several vintages are in the elegant bottle, as is a great sparkling.

This traditional-method sparkling makes thoughtful gift, so buy a case, give six bottles to some lucky friends, and keep six for yourself. (Image courtesy Nyetimber)

The Nyetimber estate, located about an hour south of London, was mentioned in the Doomsday Book, and the first vines were planted there in 1988 — the aforementioned classic trio. Eric Heerema bought the estate in 2006, and Cherie Spriggs and Brad Greatrix have been the Nyetimber winemakers since 2007.

I chilled the bottle in an ice bucket for 15 minutes, and poured the sparkling into a Schott Zwiesel white wine stem. The wine’s bubbles were distinct and fine, and brioche and a touch of nutmeg are evident in the aroma. I had poached the asparagus in butter, and, after sprinkling it with salt and black pepper, ate a piece, following it with a sip of the wine. It was a delicious combination; the salt played well with the apple hints in the Nyetimber, and the asparagus’ acidity was lifted by the wine’s spice notes.

The estate puts a code on each bottle of Classic Cuvée that one can enter on the Nyetimber website and learn the particulars of the wine. For example, my bottle’s blend was 62 percent Chardonnay, 30 percent Pinot Noir, and 8 percent Pinot Meunier, with the following vintage blend: 2015 (80 percent); 2014 (9 percent); 2013 (3 percent); 2011 (3 percent); and 2009 (5 percent). It was bottled on March 13, 2016, carries a riddling date of August 12, 2019, and was disgorged on August 20, 2019. Don’t care to know all of that? Perfectly fine, the contents will be no less pleasurable.

The Classic Cuvée carries a suggested retail price of $55, and you can order it now (with free shipping) from the estate’s site.

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Dishes on My Mind: Spring, Delicate and Bold

Sitting at a table on Wednesday evening with four other diners, 1999 Perrier-Jouët and 2006 Nicolas Feuillatte in our glasses. We talked about memorable meals and weekends, the Kentucky Derby, and California wines.

The occasion: A winemaker was in Houston, and I was in the middle of a two-day tasting tour with him, his national sales director, and his wines (Component and State of Mind). The day had been full; joining us at dinner was a couple who had supported his wines from early on. Michael celebrated their patronage with this meal (and this couple shared their 20th wedding anniversary with us) at Tony’s.

Let’s get to the delicate part, and a dish I ordered on that evening, called Spring’s First Harvest. It was white asparagus, fava beans, and baby bibb lettuce, plated in a beautiful manner. I was in Spargelzeit heaven.

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White asparagus and fava beans, on the tasting menu at Tony’s in Houston.

The spear of asparagus — the best part, the tip and a small portion of the stalk — had a lingering crispness, and a taste that took me back to Germany, an earthy deepness that paired well with the fava beans. Each bite of this small journey was ethereal.

A few days earlier, at another table, around 10 o’clock in the evening, my brother-in-law, Mark, in town. Mark and Angela and I at Nobie’s. More spring, but, this time, definitely not delicate.

Bold is what this dish was, and, as with the asparagus dish at Tony’s, done well. Orecchiette made by hand, peas, pistachio pesto, lemon curd, and goat cheese. Plus, an optional addition, duck confit. Rich, wholly satisfying, a perfect ensemble. It’s called Orecchiette con Piselli.

You might not be able to find a better plate of pasta.

The pasta did almost melt in my mouth, save for a toothsome bite that gave way to a silky sensation. I’ve written about the pasta at Nobie’s, and have been nothing but impressed with what’s done with flour, eggs, and water (and perhaps olive oil and salt?) in Martin Stayer’s kitchen.

The peas, the lemon curd, the cheese, and the duck, each at peak freshness, seem made for the orecchiette, and if anyone alive pushed this plate away after one bite, I would not want to know them.

Bubbles: Here’s a Great Sparkling Wine From Mendoza

When is a sparkling wine not a great idea? I am of like mind with Churchill when it comes to the wondrous creation. “I could not live without Champagne. In victory I deserve it. In defeat I need it.” I always have a good roster of sparkling in my Eurocave, and ample ice to chill a bottle when the time comes.

A few weeks ago, I received a selection of wines from a distributor, and among them was a bottle from Bodega Valentin Bianchi , a brut that punches well above its weight when one considers it can be found for around $22.

This sparkling wine from Argentina is a great and delicious value.

If you’re looking for bubbles for your next party or gathering, this one should definitely be on your shopping list. It’s 62 percent Chardonnay, 33 percent Pinot Noir, 5 percent Viognier, and has a lovely golden straw hue. On the nose, it’s delicate, and will have you thinking stone fruit and melon. A first taste provides a refreshing brightness that slides into toast and almond. We drank this on its own, but I would not be disappointed if it was served with goat cheese and bread.

Bodegas Valentin Bianchi was founded in 1928, and is now in the hands of the family’s fourth generation. The grapes here come from Bianchi’s Dona Elsa Estate and Las Parades Estate, situated in the San Rafael DOC of Mendoza at 2,400 to 2,600 feet above sea level. The sparkling is made in the traditional Champenoise method, and is aged for one year in the bottles.

Want more wine and spirits? Check out these stories I wrote for PaperCity.

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