Tag: tacos

What James Is Eating: Three Fine Tacos From Yxta Cocina Mexicana

Dining out of doors is always a good idea, especially during a viral pandemic, of course. I do miss sitting at a table and soaking in the ambiance and environment of a well-designed space, but I’ll survive. Indoor dining will resume for me …

Last night a patio in the Arts District, in downtown Los Angeles, was the venue, and the happy hour menu at Yxta Cocina Mexicana was the occasion. It was our first time there, and it’s been added to our recommend list, because the food was excellent.

Guacamole with toasted pumpkin seeds, tortilla chips warm and salty and fresh, and six well-made tacos, starting with Lela’s Ground Beef and continuing with Tacos de Carnitas, the latter featuring blue-corn tortillas.

Moist, succulent pork and a perfect tortilla

The pork had been cooked with care, and it was flavorful and moist, and crisp in all the right places. The cilantro, onions, and guacamole completed the plate.

Ground beef, tomatoes, potatoes, jack cheese, and a fried tortilla

My mother often made tacos and filled them with seasoned ground beef, and we — my father and sisters and I — loved them. I have in my heart a soft spot for such tacos, so when we saw a version on the menu at Yxta we didn’t hesitate. And the decision paid off.

I love the way the ground beef tacos were sat on chipotle mashed potatoes, so they would stand upright and allow one to handle them neatly. The potatoes, here, had a dual purpose, because we ate them all, with relish. Spicy, rich, comforting they were, and if you dine at Yxta do not leave them on the plate.

The tortillas were fried in oil, an oil that we could not taste, because the cook knew what he or she was doing with temperature and time. They were crisp and hot and melted in the mouth, combining with the meat and salsa and cheese and lettuce in a beautiful way.

I ordered a final plate during our meal, Tacos de Papa. I thought I could eat them, but I was wrong. I put them in a box, and had them for lunch today. The chipotle mashed potatoes star in this taco, pairing with tangy cabbage, queso fresco, and salsa brava. I warmed them gently in a convection oven, and lunch was good.

Of Duck, Brisket Tacos, and a Good Sauvignon Blanc (Plus a Fine Bartender Makes a Good Cocktail)

I like duck. I like to eat it, and I like to cook it. I like to confit it. I love the legs and the breast. I love it all — duck feet and beaks in Hong Kong as well. (During one of my residences in Paris, the grocery store near my apartment sold a wonderful confit de canard in the refrigerated section, two pieces for, as I recollect, five or so euros. Ahh, we’ll always have Paris … )

A week or so ago, I had a very good plate of duck confit in Houston, at Toulouse, a restaurant whose Dallas location (the original one in the two-location mini-chain) was once one of Angela’s favorites. Here’s my take on that duck, and the rest of the meal. The lentils were excellent, by the way.

You like tacos? Yes, don’t we all. Texas is home to its fair share of them, and you would have to eat at a different place daily for years to get to all of them. A new restaurant in Houston is serving a great brisket taco at the moment, and I ordered it last week. I recommend you try one or several. Read about it and see it here.

Now to some wine. I not long ago opened a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, a 2016 Sauvignon Blanc from Ehlers Estate, and was, in a word, refreshed. It was clean and crisp, it was balanced impeccably, and it was oh so good with the chicken I had cooked. So good it was that I’m going to open another bottle this weekend. Read about it here.

Finally, as I write this, it’s cocktail time. A good bartender I know, who works at one of my favorite restaurants in Houston, this week accepted the challenge of creating a cocktail that included Ancho Reyes Verde, a rather spicy liqueur made of poblano chilis. She did quite well, and if you want to watch her make it, see this.

Eat well, and with people you love.

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