Tag: State of Grace

La Lucha Was Warm and Welcoming on a Rainy Evening in Houston

The tacos are, with firm intent, meant to evoke stoner food — crispy tortilla shell, fried shrimp, American cheese, arbol chile — and succeed on that count, and more. The shrimp are toothsome and tender, the sauce clearly made with care, and the whole melds into a series of bites that would satisfy your soul no matter the time of day.

Eat these crispy shrimp tacos no matter your state. (Photo by The Brockhaus)

We’re at La Lucha, and the lighting in the main dining room is just right; one can read the menu with comfort, and the mood is slightly romantic, slightly homey. The chef de cuisine stands at the rear of the room, at the pass, handling tickets and dishes and keeping the kitchen straight.

Tables at the periphery of the dining room are set with white clothes, while those at the center, where we sit, boast uncovered studded metal tops. I like the juxtaposition; it’s as if you are in a place that can deftly handle casual and elegant at the same time, with no jarring clumsiness.

A Muscadet made with care. (Photo by the Brockhaus)

Our Muscadet (2017 Domaine Pierre Luneau-Pepin “La Grange”) costs $40, and we order it to pair with half a dozen wood-smoked jalapeño oysters from the Gulf of Mexico. It’s a good choice. Both are good choices. Large oysters from that gulf are not my preferred oysters, but I do appreciate them grilled over a fire and heat produced by burning wood. These at La Lucha are buttery and spicy and rich, and the crisp Muscadet, it is slightly effervescent and briny and cleanses the palate with grace.

The oysters, on the half shell, are plump, and they nestle in hot butter; we ask for more bread with which to sop that butter, because it is good, and warms us.

Do not waste any of the juices in this dish. (Photo by The Brockhaus)

La Crawfish bread is next, followed by those tacos. It is not late, but the room is inviting, and the bread, a pressed Po’ boy stuffed with crawfish and cheese, is crisp and moist, and when we eat some of it with the parsley salad on the plate the acidity of that salad makes the deepness of the Po’ boy soar.

Eat warm, because the acid and the crisp bread and the cheese and crawfish wow you. (Photo by The Brockhaus)

We forgo the fried chicken, but promise ourselves to return on another rainy night. La Lucha is a lot more than promising.

Grace Amid Discord and Despair: We Talk Ramey, Cline, ‘Sideways’, Riesling, Zinfandel, Syrah, and More

Fires out west, Twitterreah in D.C., and collapsing infrastructure in Genoa: The woes continue unabated (it’s always been that way, of course), and as summer progresses toward the autumnal equinox, despair and dismay seem the manners of the day. What to do?

Well, once you’ve checked on your friends and acquaintances in wine country, those dealing with the deadly fires, once you’ve donated to relief efforts there, after you’ve made sure your friend in Genoa is OK, after you’ve read the latest piece from Maggie Haberman about the goings-on in the White House (has there ever been a leakier bunch at 1600 Pennsylvania?), it’s time to cook and drink and eat and give thanks for the solace that can be had in those activities.

A few weeks ago, I was at State of Grace in Houston, drinking Rosé and enjoying some oysters. Matt Crawford, the restaurant’s general manager and beverage director, stopped by and poured us a Mezcal, and we talked briefly. Matt’s a great guy, and he just happens to be the subject of my latest Wine Talk. Give it a read, and next time you decide on oysters, pair them with Mezcal.

Drink Mezcal with your oysters. (Brockhaus photo)

Briny heaven (Brockhaus photo)

Continuing with wine, we move to Germany (my favorite wine country), and a great cause. (Drink Riesling every day!) But first, let’s hear from Mark Twain on Deutschland:

My philological studies have satisfied me that a gifted person ought to learn English (barring spelling and pronouncing) in thirty hours, French in thirty days, and German in thirty years. It seems manifest, then, that the latter tongue ought to be trimmed down and repaired. If it is to remain as it is, it ought to be gently and reverently set aside among the dead languages, for only the dead have time to learn it.
– “That Awful German Language,” Appendix D of A Tramp Abroad

Whenever the literary German dives into a sentence, that is the last you are going to see of him till he emerges on the other side of his Atlantic with his verb in his mouth.
A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court

…mastery of the art and spirit of the Germanic language enables a man to travel all day in one sentence without changing cars.
Christian Science

A dream…I was trying to explain to St. Peter, and was doing it in the German tongue, because I didn’t want to be too explicit.
Mark Twain’s Speeches, 1923

The Germans are exceedingly fond of Rhine wines; they are put up in tall, slender bottles, and are considered a pleasant beverage. One tells them from vinegar by the label.
A Tramp Abroad

Twain’s sarcasm and humor set aside, if you read this today (Sunday, the 19th of August, 2018) before 4 o’clock in the afternoon or so, and if you are in Houston, Texas, hightail it to Camerata and drink some fine German wines and contribute to a good cause. (Click here for more details.)

All of this talk about German wines takes me back to a fine summer day a few years ago; my friend Holger and I took a journey that included a stop at Schloss Vollrads. We drank and ate well.

A fine setting for Riesling.

I enjoy a Riesling at Schloss Vollrads.

Drinking Rielsing with Holger on the Rhine near Bingen.

Finally, there’s Zinfandel and Syrah, and Cline and Ramey. Two bottles we opened recently, two vintages that I recommend highly and that will pair with everything from hamburgers to beef stew and grilled ribeye or lamb. David Ramey and Nancy and Fred Cline are the names behind these two bottles, and you’ll want to add both wines to your inventory.

Zinfandel from old vines is in this bottle.

Gnocchi Can Be A Beautiful Thing, And So Can Redfish

Want to know what you should do if you live in Houston (or find yourself there soon)? If you like gnocchi, you should head to Coltivare, a Heights restaurant worthy of many visits, and order the ricotta gnocchi that’s on the menu now. I did that very thing recently, and I’ll soon do it again. Every component of this dish is done well … the Parmesan, the greens, and, the star ingredient, the gnocchi. It is one of the best things I’ve eaten in Houston this year (and perhaps since I landed there), and I’ll urge you to visit Coltivare and have a glass of wine in the garden before your dinner, then sit at a table inside and love the gnocchi. Click here for more on this great dish, a piece I wrote for PaperCity.

A few nights later, perhaps on a Sunday, late in the afternoon, wander to River Oaks, and sit at the bar at State of Grace and ask the bartender for a glass of Albariño. Take a few sips, then order the Basmati “Fried Rice” (quote marks from the menu). You perhaps are not ready for dinner, but you’re wanting something to go with the wine. That’s what you should do. Order this. Sit. Taste the rice and the pepper and the curry and peanuts and the jalapeño. Read more about this very good plate here.

This goes well with redfish, and peanuts.

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