Tag: Hong Kong

She Said Yes, Sixty Floors Above Liberty Street: A Snapshot of Our Never-Ending Journey

Angela and I lived around the corner from each other in Brooklyn Heights, a few years apart. We both worked at a financial publication in the Financial District, The Bond Buyer, at different times several years apart. Her apartment on Montague Street was small and cold in the winter, mine on Atlantic and Henry was small and too warm in the winter. Our paths never crossed in New York back then, but it seems they were destined to.

With hindsight, it seems only natural that Angela and I should have chosen to live in that Brooklyn neighborhood. Down the street is St. Anne’s School, and restaurants of all sorts, by the hundreds, are a short walk away.  Sahadi’s is there, and BAM is nearby. It’s a wonderful place, with fine views of Manhattan — Norman Mailer and Truman Capote, among other great writers and artists, called it home, and I sometimes think about all the adventures Angela and I would have had there if our lives had intersected earlier.

Our meeting had to wait a few more years. It was 2008, and I had been in the United Arab Emirates since February, working at an English-language daily based in Abu Dhabi. Angela arrived in December, having accepted a job on the business desk. I knew the ins and outs of what it took to get settled in the UAE (driver license, mobile-phone and bank accounts, social courtesies and etiquette, bureaucratic idiocy, etc.), so offered to help her get settled.

Early in 2009, we decided to move to Dubai. I was spending a lot of time in that emirate because my friend James lived there (it’s about an hour’s drive from Abu Dhabi straight through the desert), and our employer had dropped the ball regarding Angela’s promised Abu Dhabi lodgings. We settled on a large apartment on the 34th floor of a new high-rise complex with impressive views of the Arabian Gulf.

Here’s a photo gallery of some of the people, places, and things that mean the world to us:

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New friends (too many to mention here), old friends, dinner parties, excursions to Barracuda (a liquor emporium in the Ras al Khaimah desert) to stock up on wine and spirits, trips to Beirut and Oman and Umbria and Barcelona many other places, job changes — Angela and I departed the newspaper for which we moved to the Gulf, she to freelance for The New York Times, Time, and other publications, I to work at Al Arabiya — arguments, smiles, misunderstandings, the sadness and joy of love and life, human frailties … we experienced it all.

Then a farewell to the Emirates for both of us, after nearly five years, and adventures in Europe and India and Russia and Hong Kong and Japan and reunions with friends and an award for Angela in her parent’s ancestral homeland and work in several restaurants in Europe and so much more.

Our journey continued in 2013, back in the U.S. Angela had accepted a job as Texas editor of Xconomy; I spent February of that year in Hong Kong with my friend Dean Cox, then a week or so in Tokyo before heading to New York and a reunion with friends and visits to restaurants and places dear to me (Babbo, Palo Santo, Le Bernardin, the Met, Prospect Park, et al). I flew down to Florida to spend some time with my parents and ailing grandmother.  Angela met my parents, and she and I gathered with friends at a lake house in North Carolina, and at The Kentucky Derby (our stay in a haunted bed and breakfast overseen by an eccentric woman was full of spirit). Angela returned to Houston, and I to Florida, where we soon buried Ida, in my mother’s family cemetery next to my grandfather James.

I had begun searching for employment in Houston, and drove north and west from Florida, stopping along the way for a few days in New Orleans (a culinary sojourn, where I dined with a friend at Brigtsen’s, a friend whom I had not seen for years but whose distinctive voice had led me to him from across a crowded room in an artist’s Paris atelier a few years before our New Orleans dinner).

Angela’s parents were kind enough to put me up in their home while I looked for an apartment in Houston, and she and I renewed our adventures in Texas’ Hill Country, Dallas, Austin, Chicago, St. John, California, New Orleans, Berlin and Prague and Puglia. We started The Brockhaus, and took it to Nantucket, where I was hired by Constance and Alison to cook at their wedding  (just two of the fine people I’ve met through Angela). I got to know Angela’s family, we celebrated Indian and American holidays, and we travelled with friends (individuals full of art and spirit and soul and grace and love) and spent time with my family and adopted a cat. And we never stopped journeying.

A moment 10 years in the making.

In September of this year, Angela and I finally walked the streets of New York together, the city I love and lived in for 15 years,  where, 60 floors above Liberty Street, at the close of a long meal at Manhatta, she said yes.

Where will we venture next? I don’t know, but we can’t wait.

Three Friends Grow Hungry in Hong Kong

DSC_9632It was early evening, and the sky above Hong Kong was hazy with the mixture of pollution and moisture and reflected light to which they had grown accustomed. The trio wandered down streets and alleys until hunger called out to them from tables on a sidewalk. They sat and ordered bottles of beer and bowls of rice and pork and beef and talked of golden Buddhas and Barcelona and that dusty bar near the port where the cava costs a euro a glass and the bocadillos bring nothing but grace and satisfaction.

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Quail, Pork Belly, and Duck: A Few Excellent Plates This Week

I had not been back to Vallone’s since February, and since Angela and I were at a birthday party nearby this past week I thought it was a great time for a return visit. Plus, Angela had never been there, and I always enjoy talking with Annie Balest, the manager at the restaurant.

I am glad we decided to stop by, because on that evening I had a dish that stands out in a fairly good month of food in Houston. It was Chicken Fried Quail, and here it is:

A fine, crispy crust, encasing moist and what seems to be slightly brined meat. (Photo courtesy Vallone's)

A fine, crispy crust, encasing moist and what seems to be slightly brined meat. Underneath are soft-scrambled cheddar eggs. (Photo courtesy Vallone’s)

The quail is from Broken Arrow Ranch, and it was fresh, and hot, and the skin was crisp. I loved biting into the pieces, which had been broken down with skill, and I loved the drizzle of honey on the skin (which on the menu is labeled “local”, so perhaps it came from the Heights HoneyBee Project). The batter had some spice to it that the honey complemented it in a way that made me want to order another plate.

Last night I accepted an invitation to check out Dosi, a Korean place that opened in late July. It is near my apartment, and if you have not tried the food there you should. The building is set back from Shepherd Drive, and there is valet parking out front. Inside, the walls are devoid of any ornamentation, the kitchen is visible at the far end of the space, and along the back wall tall, narrow windows afford a view of green bamboo stalks growing outside. Zen, indeed. There is a long, really long, communal table running the length of the floor in front of those windows, and as the evening progressed it became occupied by several large groups of people.

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This is a good way to sample some soju. (Photo courtesy Dosi)

A wall of infusing soju.

A wall of infusing soju. (Photo courtesy Dosi)

To the food (and drink): One of the best meals I’ve had in the past month. I started with a soju (infused) flight – pomegranate, orange, apple and strawberry vanilla. Dosi infuses its soju in-house, and they were all good, though I was partial to the orange.

The tables were quickly filling, and the crowd was diverse. Here a 20-something couple, there a family of five, there six women who resembled very fetching Korean television anchors. It’s a buzzy dining room, a bit loud, but not obtrusively so. The space, and the food, took me back to Hong Kong.

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Anchovy and pancake and scallion, and cress, done right.

I ordered first a scallion pancake, with white anchovy, watercress, and cured lemon and soy. The cake was about the size of a dinner plate, and came cut in six pieces, so that one could roll the individual slices around the anchovy and watercress mélange. The scallion flavor shone through, and the anchovies added an earthy kick. The freshness of the dish excited me. Too often I am served vegetables that seem to have been sitting for days at room temperature and taste drab and dull.

Pork belly done in the ssam style. (Photo courtesy Dosi)

Pork belly done in the ssam style. (Photo courtesy Dosi)

What came next was the best plate of food I have had in a long, long time. Its simplicity was its beauty, and the technique shown in the pork belly was admirable. Samgyeopsal is its title on the menu, under the Ssam section. Grilled belly with moo radish, perilla leaf, and caramelized soybean paste. My chopsticks jumped into my hand and made for the pork, and my mouth was happy for the next 15 minutes. Perfect grilling, beautiful plating, and the best pork belly this man has tasted in a year. The radishes were, as with the watercress, fresh, crisp, with a bite that elevated the belly. I sat there, mainly silent, and wrapped the remaining pork and radishes in the leaves, then dipped the parcels in the soybean paste. Get this dish.

Duck breast ssam, with an excellent beet kimchee. (Photo courtesy Dosi)

Duck breast ssam, with an excellent beet kimchee. (Photo courtesy Dosi)

Duck breast ssam followed the pork belly. Spiced and smoked duck, blackberry doenjang, and beet kimchee. Unfortunately, the duck was the least accomplished component on the plate. It was, to my taste, overcooked. I am not sure if it was intentional, but the breast was slightly tough. However, the kimchee was a treat. Perfect acid, shiny, slight crunch. It made the plate, and I would have been happy eating an entire bowl of it.

An artwork of dessert. (Photo courtesy Dosi)

An artwork of dessert. (Photo courtesy Dosi)

You see the dessert above? On the menu it is described as “steam cake / layered with red bean, sesame & green tea with lychee sherbet”. I describe it as delectable, especially the left side of that cake, with the red bean and green tea. The sherbet was smooth and a bit tart and it was sitting on sesame and on top of it were four or five dried lavender petals.

The menu also includes lamb collar, which I love, bo ssam (more love), and clams with a kimchee broth and sausage, corn and purple hull peas, rice and toasted egg yolk. I will return to Dosi and try all of the above. You will, if you are wise, join me.

Snapshots of Dining With Dean in Hong Kong and Macau

Life can at times seem to be one long meal … which is not a bad way to think about the journey we all take. Meals and conversations form a long road, a connected series of days and nights and tables and bottles and sensual memories that one can return to again and again.

I spent a month in 2013 with Dean Cox, one of my closest friends, in Hong Kong. I have known him a long time, and never tire of his company. (I am missing him now, because we have not been together in the same place since March of 2013.) We have shared meals in Paris and the Loire Valley, Hong Kong and Macau, New York and Basel, and Stockholm and Huntsville and Birmingham. It’s been a great journey thus far, and it continues.

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Sai Kung: A seafood-lover’s paradise

Dean and I took a trip, seafood on our minds. We left Kowloon on a train, then transferred to a little bus, which took us up and down some hills and around some bends before reaching our destination: Sai Kung, a small city/large town on the sea less than an hour from central Hong Kong on the other side of a peak.

It was a Saturday afternoon, and the boardwalk was crowded with families and couples, many of them with dogs in tow … dogs on leads and dogs in arms and dogs in baby strollers. It’s been a long time since I have seen so many dogs in one place.

Out for a stroll

Out for a stroll

Dogs have a good life in Sai Kung. (Photo by Dean Cox)

Dogs have a good life in Sai Kung. (Photo by Dean Cox)

We walked along the boardwalk, and soon came to the first seafood palace. One side of the restaurant was nothing but tanks of seawater, alive with crustaceans and fish and bivalves and almost anything one could desire when it comes to seafood. I mean anything and everything. There were razor clams and mantis shrimp and horseshoe crab and three or four types of eel and whelks and clams and mussels and scallops and on and on. The water was pristine, the fishmongers were respectful of their wares.

Hungry for eel? Get to Sai Kung.

Hungry for eel? Get to Sai Kung.

Clean tanks, housing anything a seafood lover desires.

Clean tanks, housing anything a seafood lover desires.

Fresh, alive, swimming or just hanging around.

Fresh, alive, swimming or just hanging around.

Razor clams from Chinese waters.

Razor clams from Chinese waters.

Scallop with roe, ready for your tongue.

Scallop with roe, ready for your tongue.

Dean and I walked from restaurant to restaurant along the promenade, returning to the first one, Tung Kee, because the woman who spoke with us about the seafood on offer there was friendly and helpful and obviously loved her job. We chose a table at the front of the outdoor dining area, which afforded us a perfect view of the passersby.

A waterfront menu.

A waterfront menu.

The menu was exhaustive, and in addition to the seafood there were dumplings and rice and pork and duck and vegetables. We decided on Tasting Menu 2, for two people, and ordered some Erdinger Dunkel. What followed was – and I say this with no exaggeration – the third best seafood meal I have ever experienced (the first two being at Le Bernardin).

We started with some very good fried squid; crispy, with a nice ratio of tentacles to body. Next came mantis prawn with amazing seared garlic and peppers. Dean loved the garlic mixture, and it was perfect with the prawns, which were fried with their shells on, so we had scissors with which to cut away the shells so that we could get to the white, tender meat. A sauce of ginger and soy turned the meat a wonderful golden color, and I could have easily eaten five more of those aggressive and mighty shellfish.

Squid, fried as I like it.

Squid, fried as I like it.

Mantis prawn, shell on, scissors at the ready.

Mantis prawn, shell on, scissors at the ready.

Lobster enters table right. Lobster with onions and a “cheese sauce”. When I saw it on the menu I thought “Cheese and lobster … not so sure.” But the sauce grew on me, even though it was not appealing to the eye. The plate was full of wheat noodles, and the lobster, pieces separated but still in its cracked shell, was everything lobster should be: tasting of a clean sea, firm meat, not chewy. The sauce reminded me of a thin roux … there seemed to be cornstarch in it, and I must say that while I prefer my lobster poached in butter, or simply steamed, the flavor of this dish seemed appropriate for the locale. Dean and I extracted every piece of meat from the shell, and another lobster was not out of the question. It was that good.

Lobster and "cheese sauce" surprises.

Lobster and “cheese sauce” surprises.

There were still two plates to come on the menu: vegetables and fried rice. I wish they had come before or with the lobster, but each was in its own right satisfying. Stir-fried bok choy was our vegetable, and though it was overcooked – I like mine with a bit of crispness intact – it offered a good taste component to close the meal. As for the fried rice, I concentrated on the baby shrimp and pieces of pork that were cooked in it. In fact, I liked them so much that I was tempted to order a bowl of them, pork and shrimp for the ride back to Kowloon.

The promenade was beginning to grow quieter, lunch hours over. We paid our bill and started walking along the water, eyeing a dock jutting out perhaps 300 feet over the water. We then noticed people lined up at the railing along the edge of the promenade, looking down toward the water. When we managed to get a view we saw a dozen or so small boats – skiffs really – full of seafood for sale. Much like the restaurants, each boat was equipped with an aeration system that kept the crustaceans and fish and razor clams alive in clean water, until a customer gave the order and either a fish was stunned with a blow to the head and then gutted or a bunch of clams were put into a bag. A net on a long pole was raised to the waiting customer above, into which he deposited his payment. The fisherman then delivered the goods and turned his attention to the next client.

Shucking the wares.

Shucking the wares.

His own floating seafood store.

His own floating seafood store.

Watching the ships come in.

Watching the ships come in.

Crab for sale.

Crab for sale.

I’ve been to a lot of fish markets, and I’ve lived in Savannah, and I’ve spent time in the north of Spain, and I’ve fished in Florida and Alaska, but nowhere have I seen so much seafood in such beautiful condition, in such diversity. Swimming one minute, then on your plate not long afterward. That’s the way to eat it.

A little bit of my New York in Hong Kong

I’ve been away from New York for a while, and I miss it, a lot, but our planet is a big one, and there’s a lot to see out here, and I’ve been lucky enough to see a lot of it lately. Still, every time I return to the city for a visit one of the places I always make sure to get to is Babbo, that magical restaurant on Waverly Place that has never failed to make me happy, never.

Whether I dine at a table upstairs – the quieter room – or downstairs, which is louder and busier, or at the bar, my favorite place at Babbo, from the moment I enter the former coach house’s door I become part of what I consider one of the best restaurants in New York, if not the world. (I’ve eaten in a lot of great dining rooms in many parts of the world, and my experiences at Babbo have always been right up at the top of the list.)

But this is not about Babbo, not really. And it’s not about New York. (On the other hand, it’s about both of those places, in a roundabout way.) It’s about Hong Kong, and Lupa, another restaurant created by the Bastianich and Batali empire. (There is, of course, a New York Lupa, another fine place to eat owned by Bastianich and Batali, which gives its name to the Hong Kong outpost.)

But it’s mainly about getting my Babbo fix. (And this is for another time, but I could also use some time at Casa Mono and Otto and, to a lesser degree, Esca and Del Posto. I shall return.)

Lupa opened in Hong Kong last year, and I was hoping that the kinks had been ironed out of service and the kitchen, because I know how difficult it is to take a concept and style and duplicate it in a country that shares nothing in common with the original location’s environment, and by environment I mean ingredients, customs, diner expectations and other, often ineffable, things.

I called for a table at the last minute, and had no trouble getting one. I was dining alone, something I love to do. (I can better take in a place that way; I don’t have to engage in conversation, and I don’t have to worry about my dining companion(s) liking – or not liking – the food.) Keep in mind that I was not under the illusion that Lupa Hong Kong would be an exact replica of the Lupa in Manhattan, or that the vibe and feel of Babbo would have been magically transported thousands of miles from Waverly Place to the Central neighborhood of Hong Kong. I was there for the food, food that I hoped would, for a few hours, allow me to taste Babbo again.

Judging by the food, I was not disappointed. In fact, I was very pleased, with the entire evening. The service was excellent, if a little too punctual. (It always annoys me when staff in a restaurant want to rush away one’s plate or bowl the second it seems to be almost empty; I like to have time to sop up the remaining sauce, or merely savor the dish fully. Swooping down on a table and whisking away the porcelain disrupts, to my mind, what should be a calming and rejuvenating experience for all of the senses.) The waiters seemed to know the wine list, though they acted a bit confused when I ordered a Negroni instead of immediately placing my food order.

A menu that takes me back to Babbo

A menu that takes me back to Babbo

As I sipped my apéritif, I looked at the menu, and my eye went immediately to the Pasta Tasting Menu, because I reckoned that would be a good representation of the kitchen’s work. I have enjoyed Babbo’s pasta tasting menu on many occasions, so that’s what I ordered.

A treat from the chef came first, two orecchietta filled with marrow. They were an excellent start to the meal: warm, perfectly al dente, and filled with rich, smooth marrow.

Marvelous marrow

Marvelous marrow

Next came a cold pasta, Tonarelli Freddi. A small piece of sea urchin graced the top of a mound of square spaghetti, loosely mixed into which was an abundant amount of tender – read “not overcooked” – crabmeat. Bringing all of the ingredients together was a jalapeño pesto, and its effect in the cold dish was stupendous – it was a bit spicy, a bit hot on the front of the tongue, but then heat evolved into warmth and deepness. Splendid. It made the crab better than it should have been.

Urchin, black spaghetti, and jalapeño pesto: what more could one desire?

Urchin, black spaghetti, and jalapeño pesto: what more could one desire?

I had ordered a quartino of one of Bastianich’s whites with the early part of the menu, and it was a good one: dry, but lively.

Postage stamps that one wants to lick over and over again

Postage stamps that one wants to lick over and over again

Next came Francobolli, or, as described on the menu, Caciocavallo-filled “Postage Stamps” with White Asparagus and Fava Beans. First, I love fresh favas, everything about them. I love preparing them, shelling them, removing the thin membrane … everything. Their bright green color (if they are blanched properly) are a treat for the eye, and their taste … their taste is often ethereal, a rich accompaniment to meats and pastas and nearly everything. The asparagus was crisp, the pasta was thin and allowed the sheep’s cheese to creep out in my mouth, and the sauce, which seemed to be butter and olive oil and cheese, added the right amount of richness to a successful dish. Mint supplied another flavor component, a proper one.

We were moving on from the seafood-pasta portion now, so I ordered a quartino of red, a nice and unassuming Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. And then came my favorite dish of the evening. It included pork sausage. And fennel pollen. And broccoli rabe. And it was excellent. House-made little ears, as the menu described it (and I hope all of the pastas at Lupa Hong Kong are made in the house). Mild sausage, sprinked with fennel pollen, in a dish studded with crisp rabe. I’d have it again, any time.

Ears that talk to my mouth

Ears that talk to my mouth

Now, unfortunately, came my least favorite plate of the night. And it’s a shame, because pigeon is one of my favorite things to eat. At Spring and Amador, two places I spent some time at last year, pigeon is done well, very well. As it should be. The pigeon I had at Lupa was, as I described to myself upon chewing the first piece, mealy. And I am hoping it was an anomaly, because I will try it again at Lupa in Hong Kong, because, as I said, I love pigeon. The plate was basically pappardelle, wide ribbon pasta, “in salmi,” and the sauce and the pasta were very good. But that pigeon.

Pappardelle and pigeon, which I am thinking will be better next time I try it

Pappardelle and pigeon, which I am thinking will be better next time I try it

I was then presented with a soft, runny, brie-like cheese, accompanied with truffled honey and thin brioche wafers, and the dessert wine I ordered, a Moscato d’Asti (Bricco Quaglia” La Spinetta 2011), made the plate sing. Rich cheese, rich honey, and truffles. Nothing better. Almost nothing better.

Dessert was rhubarb panna cotta, about which I had no qualms. I recall that it had a bit too much citrus taste for my palate, but I am not big on citrus desserts, and I bet that 99 out of 100 diners would find it wonderful.

The kitchen is run by Zach Allen, who has a long history with Batali and Bastianich, and Jeff Newman, the latter of whom I had a wide-ranging conversation with during dinner. We discussed Cantonese eating habits, culinary school, New York and the rigors of sourcing ingredients, among other topics. They seem to have the kitchen in tip-top shape, and in my opinion have done an excellent job in a fairly short period of time. Juan Gimenez, Lupa’s manager, has assembled perfect order in the dining room, and has put together a great service.

If you are in Hong Kong, go to Lupa. I am going again soon. And if you are in New York, keep my place at Babbo’s bar warm. I will be back there soon, ready for some Mint Love Letters, a sweetbread or two, and that sublime goose liver ravioli.

A moveable reunion

 

 

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We met Julie on a holy mountaintop outside of Barcelona in 2007. It was late December, mist covered the peaks. Dean and I boarded the funicular and settled in for the ride. There were 15 or so other passengers; everyone wore a look of expectation, eager to reach the trail. Hermits’ caves dotted the vista, temporary dwellings for men who closed themselves off from others in an attempt to find nirvana, holiness, solace. I do not know if they found their peace, but if they did not find it on Montserrat I doubt they did anywhere.

The sun was shining, but not enough to coax the mist away from the peaks. The climb was not easy, but the company made the trek fun, even spiritual. As we hiked, Dean and I began to talk to Julie, who was teaching English in Barcelona. She is an American, from Florida, and as Dean and I also have Florida ties (we attended the same university there, though years apart, just one of the odd coincidences that tie us together) there was common ground.

An hour or so later we reached the top, far above the Spanish plain. Dean asked Julie if she would like to join us in Sweden for our New Year’s Eve party, in a beautiful house in Aneby, in the white and cold Swedish countryside. She said yes, and we began our descent, back down past the spirits of the hermits, their caves protecting shrines and incense and messages scrawled on the stone walls.

The next several days in Barcelona were spent walking around the city’s streets and alleys and sitting on stools in tapas bars drinking Txakoli and cava and eating shrimp and foie gras and chorizo. (Food is a constant when we gather.)

Dean and I flew back to Sweden (one day before Real visited Barca; we had no choice but to get back to Scandinavia) and Christmas with his family. Julie flew in the following week and the Cox/Knutsson household was full of holiday spirit. Dean put together a Mexican buffet, the wine and Aquavit flowed. (We had cooked a moose roast earlier in the week, but I don’t recall if there was any left for the taco meat. I hope there was.)

After the holiday, which included launching fireworks into the frigid, starlit night, Dean, Julie and I took a train to Stockholm, and from there Dean continued on to an assignment in Eastern Europe. Julie and I spent a few days in Stockholm, and I then flew to Iceland for a week, where I had arranged a layover on my way back to New York. Julie was headed back to Barcelona.

Before we parted ways, Dean, Julie and I made plans to meet again, somewhere else in this magical world. We did so this week, in Hong Kong.

Last night our palms were read, and the man told us that we would have further adventures together. (He also said Julie should quit thinking so much, that she should calm her mind, that Dean should not live in Moscow, Norway or Sweden, and that I was aggressive on the outside but a kind man on the inside and the owner of a keen intelligence. Should we believe him?)

The journey continues.

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