Tag: Chicago

The Perfect Sandwich For A Cold Day

It’s a cold and wet day in Chicago, and you want a warm brunch that includes a Bloody Mary and lots of flavor. It’s Christmas season, people are smiling and walking arm in arm down the sidewalks and the city is as beautiful as ever.

Little Goat Diner is your choice. The main dining room and the two counters are already crowded, you wait for your booth, and scan the menu.

RIght away, the Reuben jumps out at you. Smoked corned beef, kimchi, sauerkraut, Havarti, special sauce (you’ll think spicy Thousand Island with a richer, deeper, less acidic undertone), all on grilled rye. It’s what you order. Along with the Bloody Mary, of course.

A Bloody Mary with lots of heat.

Bread grilled with an ample amount of butter, neither too crisp nor too soft, is what you notice first, then a bite off this exemplary sandwich makes everyone else (save your charming and beautiful dining companion) in the loud restaurant fade away.

Your charming and beautiful dining companion.

The kimchi hits your palate, then the meat, then the sauerkraut. The sauce mingles with it all, and you don’t mind that your fingers are covered in butter and sauce and specks of everything between those two pieces of perfect Rye and you are glad you’re in Chicago at that moment.

Eat this.

A Beet Tartare That Impresses

We’re in Chicago for Christmas, and today at lunch came across a perfect little dish. It was at Somerset, an elegant, two-story restaurant that’s part of the Boka Restaurant Group.

The main dining room — Somerset is meant to evoke a country club vibe — is full of brass and leather and tweedy fabric and wood, but it all meshes in the mind in an airy and comfortable manner. One would not expect cigar smoke in this club, but Martinis and deck shoes would fit right in.

Wood, brass, a welcoming air, and food that makes delicious sense.

Service here is casual but professional; the wine list is thoughtful, with glasses and bottles from $11/$40ish. Domaine Olga Raffault is represented, as are Giovanni Rosso and Billecart Salmon. Cocktails and draft beer mean you won’t suffer from thirst.

To the beet tartare. It comes to table in a bowl, and the first element one notices are the dark crackers studded with sunflower seeds and other nuts. Light, crisp, earthy … the perfect scoop for the beets and cheese. Break off a piece of the cracker, and be sure to get a bite containing everything. When it hits your palate, you’ll like the initial citrusy/smoky rush, which mellows into something deeper, richer. The sunflower seeds give texture, and the cheeses jump on your tongue.

Under all the cheese are cumin yogurt, goat gouda, and sunflower seeds, plus smoked beets. If you are in Chicago, get this.

This beet tartare has been added to The Brockhaus 2018 Top 20 Dishes List.

Last Night I Dreamed About Charlie Trotter — Then the Morning Became Odder

I have phases during which I vividly recall my dreams, and I’m in one now. I wake up, and the images and action and scenes and dialog seem burned into my synapses. I retell the “stories” to myself and write them down in a notebook, and I also, from time to time, think I figure out why I dreamed what I did. Just as often, I cannot fathom the reason for the dreams, and simply enjoy the mise-en-scène. I am doing that as I write this, and Charlie Trotter is on my mind.

You see, last night I dreamed a Chicago dream, and Charlie Trotter and I hung out and ate and drank together, and we walked up and down sidewalks and streets and ended up at his townhome, late in the evening. We sat in his kitchen — as I imagined it … I never set foot in Trotter’s kitchen, or his home for that matter — and the hours passed and the conversation flowed. We cooked breakfast as the sun rose.

What did we talk about? I can remember France, and a trip down a canal on a barge, a pet Trotter had as a child, his father’s car, and the wallpaper of a hotel room in Paris. Earlier in the dream — it was winter, a Chicago winter — the steam coming from our mouths and nostrils as we stood under a streetlight and talked seemed especially visceral, though I have not the faintest idea why. Also, the condensation on his eyeglasses sticks in my mind.

The overall feeling of the dream is comfort, despite Trotter’s infamous personality. We apparently were friends, as we discussed trips we had been on together, wines we had shared. It was, as opposed to many dreams I have, unencumbered by the slightest sense of anxiety or angst or conflict. It left me feeling warm and part of a network of grace and kindness.

In 2009, I met Charlie Trotter in Abu Dhabi at a dinner he prepared.

Why, or how, did the morning become odder, odder than the dream itself? Because, in what seems a Jungian shadow-happening, the first email message I clicked on this morning while giving a few minutes to the ongoing process of clearing out my inbox included two photos of Charlie Trotter and me, taken in 2009 in Abu Dhabi. I decided to delete emails with the .ae suffix, and the message containing those images — which I had forgotten about — was the first one on the resultant search list. I opened it, unaware of the attached photos, and sat and pondered.

I’m not sure why it happened, and I don’t have a lot of time right now to figure it out. Nor do I know why I dreamed about Trotter and hanging out with him in Chicago. Perhaps reading about the closing of Grace was the impetus? Who knows … Dreams are mysterious, their meanings can be evasive and perplexing. I’ll figure this one out, eventually. Until then, I’ll relish those feelings of grace and warmth, and the sensual experiences of cooking, drinking, and eating with the departed chef.

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