I was sick, lacked energy. I was going through a week of illness that had hit the restaurant. My appetite was nonexistent; coffee had lost its appeal. I was tired. But I wanted to cook. (When I am sick I spend time thinking about what I’ll make when I recuperate. This time, I went to Italy, thanks in part to a recipe for pasta alla Genovese in a Mark Bittman piece.) On the day my energy returned I returned to the kitchen and created some comfort.