Spargelzeit! It’s here. And though I am not in Germany as I write this, and it was French asparagus, the truffles were Italian, from Norcia, and it was, and is, an excellent dish. I had it at lunch yesterday, at Tony’s, and the asparagus was slightly crunchy, full of flavor, perched atop a fried egg whose yolk oozed when I cut into it. The cheese was salty and tangy and I wanted the asparagus to last forever. But nothing does, so order this soon.