Category: Houston (Page 1 of 3)

The platter came to the table, a communal table, and I served the gentleman to my right. I then served Angela, and placed the remainder on my plate. Ragu bianco, crisp fresh pasta sheets, greens, feta, winter squash, béchamel. It’s been at least two months since I tasted something as comforting and complex and rustic and flavorful. All of the components stand starkly alone, but linger as a symphony on the palate. William Wright, of Helen Greek Food and Wine, created this for a fundraising dinner at Poitín for Urban Harvest, and it was more than good.

A winter’s feast

Grace Amid Discord and Despair: We Talk Ramey, Cline, ‘Sideways’, Riesling, Zinfandel, Syrah, and More

Fires out west, Twitterreah in D.C., and collapsing infrastructure in Genoa: The woes continue unabated (it’s always been that way, of course), and as summer progresses toward the autumnal equinox, despair and dismay seem the manners of the day. What to do?

Well, once you’ve checked on your friends and acquaintances in wine country, those dealing with the deadly fires, once you’ve donated to relief efforts there, after you’ve made sure your friend in Genoa is OK, after you’ve read the latest piece from Maggie Haberman about the goings-on in the White House (has there ever been a leakier bunch at 1600 Pennsylvania?), it’s time to cook and drink and eat and give thanks for the solace that can be had in those activities.

A few weeks ago, I was at State of Grace in Houston, drinking Rosé and enjoying some oysters. Matt Crawford, the restaurant’s general manager and beverage director, stopped by and poured us a Mezcal, and we talked briefly. Matt’s a great guy, and he just happens to be the subject of my latest Wine Talk. Give it a read, and next time you decide on oysters, pair them with Mezcal.

Drink Mezcal with your oysters. (Brockhaus photo)

Briny heaven (Brockhaus photo)

Continuing with wine, we move to Germany (my favorite wine country), and a great cause. (Drink Riesling every day!) But first, let’s hear from Mark Twain on Deutschland:

My philological studies have satisfied me that a gifted person ought to learn English (barring spelling and pronouncing) in thirty hours, French in thirty days, and German in thirty years. It seems manifest, then, that the latter tongue ought to be trimmed down and repaired. If it is to remain as it is, it ought to be gently and reverently set aside among the dead languages, for only the dead have time to learn it.
– “That Awful German Language,” Appendix D of A Tramp Abroad

Whenever the literary German dives into a sentence, that is the last you are going to see of him till he emerges on the other side of his Atlantic with his verb in his mouth.
A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court

…mastery of the art and spirit of the Germanic language enables a man to travel all day in one sentence without changing cars.
Christian Science

A dream…I was trying to explain to St. Peter, and was doing it in the German tongue, because I didn’t want to be too explicit.
Mark Twain’s Speeches, 1923

The Germans are exceedingly fond of Rhine wines; they are put up in tall, slender bottles, and are considered a pleasant beverage. One tells them from vinegar by the label.
A Tramp Abroad

Twain’s sarcasm and humor set aside, if you read this today (Sunday, the 19th of August, 2018) before 4 o’clock in the afternoon or so, and if you are in Houston, Texas, hightail it to Camerata and drink some fine German wines and contribute to a good cause. (Click here for more details.)

All of this talk about German wines takes me back to a fine summer day a few years ago; my friend Holger and I took a journey that included a stop at Schloss Vollrads. We drank and ate well.

A fine setting for Riesling.

I enjoy a Riesling at Schloss Vollrads.

Drinking Rielsing with Holger on the Rhine near Bingen.

Finally, there’s Zinfandel and Syrah, and Cline and Ramey. Two bottles we opened recently, two vintages that I recommend highly and that will pair with everything from hamburgers to beef stew and grilled ribeye or lamb. David Ramey and Nancy and Fred Cline are the names behind these two bottles, and you’ll want to add both wines to your inventory.

Zinfandel from old vines is in this bottle.

Lardo Takes Me to Florence, Manti to Istanbul: That’s a Great Week in Houston Dining

You’re walking around Florence, taking in as much as you can, running your hands across the stones of buildings, wondering about the people who lived and loved and died in them a thousand years before you were born. You imagine all the wild boar roaming in the hills above the city, think about feasts of yore at which cinghiale starred, you wind down a narrow passage near the river and find yourself outside the restaurant with the rabbit dish you love. At your table, you order a quartino of Nebbiolo and accept a small plate of lardo, a gift from the owner. Outside, the sun begins to set. Inside, the evening begins, deliciously.

Lardo. If you’ve never experienced the pleasure that is lardo melting on your tongue, get a table at Houston restaurant Charivari (no, it’s not the only place in the city that serves lardo, but it’s certainly home to some fine examples of it) and ask for it. The chef, Johann Schuster, will be happy to oblige. Here’s a look at a platter of the food that I sampled recently at the midtown establishment — and I find myself wanting more as I write this.

Lardo, two ways, and tongue head cheese.

Read about Schuster’s lardo here, and don’t delay if you want some, because this is not mass-produced salumi. (I write about a great dish at Nancy’s Hustle as well in the piece. The manti served at the new — and popular — restaurant in Houston’s EaDo area, took me back to Istanbul, as the lardo transported me to Florence. Not bad for a week in Texas.)

Finally, I give you sausage, two made with skill by Schuster, which I tasted on the lardo evening. There’s a rich, decadent blood sausage, and a garlic sausage that is as good as any I’ve ever had. You’ll love them.

Blood sausage and a hearty garlic sausage, as served at Charivari

Eat This Today (In Houston): The Paratha-dilla Stuffed With Lamb at Himalaya

Yes, there are still plenty of people (unfortunate souls) who have not experienced the (almost aways) excellence that is Himalaya, Kaiser Lashkari’s restaurant that features plastic-covered tables and valiant but often-frustrating service, but some of the best food in the sprawling region that is the Houston metropolitan area. It is, to my palate, the best Indian-(Pakistani) restaurant around, and the righteousness of my opinion was again confirmed about a week ago.

I’ve had most everything on Lashkari’s menu, including the masala fried chicken and the chicken fried steak, both of which are excellent dishes, as well as the saag paneer and any number of varieties of biryani. I’ll continue to order those. But now I’m raving about something I had never had before until a week or so ago, and that is the Paratha-dilla made with lamb. Raves are not sufficient for this. It is, with no exaggeration, one of the best things I’ve eaten in a restaurant this year.

Parathas are unleavened flatbreads indigenous to the Indian subcontinent — from the words “parat” and “atta” … or “layers of cooked dough” in English — and they can be wonderful when made by a skilled person, or leaden and dull when made by sloppy hands. I’ve had many of both types, and the one at Himalaya is decidedly in the former group. Light in texture, yet substantial; flaky as opposed to dense and doughy. In short, comfort food at its best. But at Himalaya, they’ve been combined with the “dilla” of “quesadilla” and transformed into something altogether miraculous.

The Paratha-dilla with lamb, ground and full of spices, and served with onions and masala sauce and tomatoes and cilantro, hits all of the senses with aplomb and confidence. The flaky and moist bread almost melts into the lamb, and a bite including the onions and tomato and cilantro and sour cream? It’s a thing of beauty, in the most sensual sense of the word.

Lashkari loves a good mash-up — he’s got a Smoked Brisket Masala and Shrimp Masala and Grits rotating on his menu now, among other creations — and the Paratha-dilla is one of his best. (And for anyone who doesn’t know, Himalaya is BYOB, so drink well.)

Gnocchi Can Be A Beautiful Thing, And So Can Redfish

Want to know what you should do if you live in Houston (or find yourself there soon)? If you like gnocchi, you should head to Coltivare, a Heights restaurant worthy of many visits, and order the ricotta gnocchi that’s on the menu now. I did that very thing recently, and I’ll soon do it again. Every component of this dish is done well … the Parmesan, the greens, and, the star ingredient, the gnocchi. It is one of the best things I’ve eaten in Houston this year (and perhaps since I landed there), and I’ll urge you to visit Coltivare and have a glass of wine in the garden before your dinner, then sit at a table inside and love the gnocchi. Click here for more on this great dish, a piece I wrote for PaperCity.

A few nights later, perhaps on a Sunday, late in the afternoon, wander to River Oaks, and sit at the bar at State of Grace and ask the bartender for a glass of Albariño. Take a few sips, then order the Basmati “Fried Rice” (quote marks from the menu). You perhaps are not ready for dinner, but you’re wanting something to go with the wine. That’s what you should do. Order this. Sit. Taste the rice and the pepper and the curry and peanuts and the jalapeño. Read more about this very good plate here.

This goes well with redfish, and peanuts.

Wine Talk: From Cleveland to Houston, With No Nonsense

Back in December 2016, I accepted an invitation to taste some wines at Rosinka Wine & Tea House, a little place in Houston to which I had never been. I’d driven by the wine bar (yes, tea is also sold there) several times, but never had the time to stop, so was happy to accept. On the evening of the tasting, Angela and I arrived and encountered Nicholas Cain, the man behind the bar at Rosinka. He poured and we talked and I grew to like Cain more as we spoke. He was — and is — straightforward, friendly, devoid of pretension, and passionate about food and wine and making sure people enjoy them.

I knew he would be the perfect subject for Wine Talk, so here it is. Give it a read, then pay a visit to Cain at Rosinka. You’ll enjoy the wines and the conversation.

Want more Wine Talk? Check out these stories:

The Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Terry Theise Talks Riesling and Champagne
The Wine Daughter
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life

Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming Served It Forth

The lobsters had been prepped, the dessert (ginger ice cream and Edna Lewis’s Very Good Chocolate Cake) was ready, and Chris and I were discussing plating. It was Saturday, November 12, and The Brockhaus was making another appearance in Montrose, cooking in the house where its Houston chapter began, back in September 2014. At 3 p.m., and all was well. It turned out to be a homecoming worth savoring.

The Brockhaus

The guests would arrive at 7, and we’d serve them some Champagne and a chance to chat before dinner. (Judy and Russ and hosts Jared and Caroline were Brockhaus veterans, but the other attendees were new to us, and one another.) The porch overlooking the pool was the perfect spot for mingling.

The Brockhaus

Norma and Gary and Melanie — our team for the evening, from The Culinary Institute LeNôtre — were on the way. (Their work was instrumental to the evening; a kitchen is only as good as its team … there’s no room for deadwood, something that was drilled into me at Amador and Arzak.) Chris and I went over the schedule one final time, divided the tasks, and continued prepping, I taking care of the crab cakes, Chris dealing with the Billi Bi components. Angela entered the scene and began her planning.

The hours — as they always do — flew by, and the evening progressed. The guests talked and drank, the kitchen ran smoothly, and the plating and service hummed. The conversation emanating from the table flowed, the wines (selected by Jeremy Hart, of Banville Wine Merchants) pleased. All was as it should be in that bungalow in Montrose. The courses went out on time — the lobster and ribeye were highlights — and 11:30 arrived without a hitch. Quail, crab cakes, tuna, ginger ice cream … we thank our guests and partners, including Chantal, whose products we love to use.

Until next time, here are some images of The Brockhaus Montrose Homecoming (November 12, 2016):

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A Delicious Reunion in a Little Brasserie South of Houston

I have known Kris Jakob for a few years now, and I like his approach to — and passion for — food and cooking. He’s a Texas-born, European-trained chef, and he knows how to take care of his guests. I worked with him at Kris Bistro for a while, back in 2014, and enjoyed the experience.

Kris Jakob has set up a fine restaurant in Friendswood, Texas.

Kris Jakob has set up a fine restaurant in Friendswood, Texas.

He left that restaurant, and is now plying his trade a little ways south of Houston, in a community called Friendswood. I’m glad he’s back making good food. Click here for a look at a few recent visits Angela and I made to Brasserie 1895; we ate well. Jakob has some great people at his new place, and the restaurant is a welcome addition to the landscape.

A Busy Year: PaperCity Magazine, The Brockhaus Returns, and More

In June of 2015 I accepted a position with PaperCity, a 21-year-old publication with offices in Houston and Dallas. It’s been busy since then … so busy that Mise en place and The Brockhaus have had to take a backseat to my duties at PaperCity. I hold the title of Features and Digital Editor, and I love the work. It’s introduced me to scores of interesting people doing great things (and that includes my colleagues), afforded me the opportunity to sit down with John Varvatos and Anthony Bourdain, among many other unique individuals, and is allowing me to tell some great stories about places and things I love.

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Tom Ford works on the set of “A Single Man.” (Courtesy Tom Ford)

I’ve asked Tom Ford about his life and loves and son, and I’ve shared some Balvenie with Anthony Bourdain. I’ve introduced readers to some good wines and dishes, and I’ve made some friends along the way. And there’s more, much more, to come.

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Anthony Bourdain relaxes in Les Halles in 2004. (Robert DiScalfani photo)

I‘m happy to announce that The Brockhaus will be back in action on May 7th; it’ll be a seven-course tasting menu, and will include provisions from DR Delicacy. Think chanterelles, morels, perhaps a bit of caviar. Diane Roederer, the owner of DR Delicacy, is hosting the dinner, and I look forward to working with her. I am putting the menu together now, and will be posting the details on Facebook soon. Mark your calendars and save the date.

Wine talk

The Brockhaus takes the Houston Heights, 2015.

The Brockhaus Takes The (Rainy) Houston Heights

Prepping was well under way when the rains (and lightning and thunder) came, heavy and loud. The house – the creation of the minds of the hosts and their architect – was, save for the kitchen, quiet, orderly. The rooms, tastefully appointed, were full of framed photography (the owners are collectors), journeys for the mind and eye. It was the perfect environment in which to cook.

Working menu

Working menu

Except that as time marched on toward 7 p.m., when guests were asked to arrive, the rains persisted. The sommelier for the evening was phoning me from his car; the previous week’s flooding in Houston had him worried, so he decided to turn around and head home. Hoping the deluge would devolve into a shower, I called the guests, changed the cocktail time to 7:30, and hoped for the best.

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Constance and I – now joined by Chris – were all in the kitchen, Chris working on Swiss chard and porcini, Constance putting the final touches on the snapper prep, and I taking care of the pork belly.  Chris and I have an unspoken ease in a kitchen, and the input and assistance from Constance, who attended the dinner with Alison (they of the beautiful Nantucket wedding), made the work perfect.

It was May 30, and this was the third Brockhaus dinner (fourth if  the wedding on Nanctucket is included), and despite the rains and the late start, it was a fine affair. Eight guests gathered around a table, seven courses, wines from the hosts’ cellar*, lively and often raucous conversation, smiles, laughter. Strangers at a table when the first course arrived, friends upon departure around midnight. I feel profound satisfaction when my food makes that happen. The guests included three former Brockhaus attendees, two of whom, Russ and Judy, have been at all three Houston events, (they have also hosted a Brockahus event at their home, and I consider them great patrons) and five first-timers. Here is what one guest wrote me a few days later:

“Brockhaus hit the trifecta … creatively prepared food that excited the senses;  expertly paired wines that complimented each course,  and engaging guests that would be envy of any dinner party.   James set a high bar with this delightful evening.”

The Brockhaus journey continues, and we hope to see you at a table soon.

*Wines served: Ivernel Brut Prestige NV,  Château de Montfort Vouvray 2011, Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard 2012 Carneros Chardonnay, Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard 2012, Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2006, Tenuta Fontodi Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 1996

(Slideshow created by Constance Brinkley-Badgett.)

 

 

 

 

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