Category: die Pfalz

Wine Talk: From Cleveland to Houston, With No Nonsense

Back in December 2016, I accepted an invitation to taste some wines at Rosinka Wine & Tea House, a little place in Houston to which I had never been. I’d driven by the wine bar (yes, tea is also sold there) several times, but never had the time to stop, so was happy to accept. On the evening of the tasting, Angela and I arrived and encountered Nicholas Cain, the man behind the bar at Rosinka. He poured and we talked and I grew to like Cain more as we spoke. He was — and is — straightforward, friendly, devoid of pretension, and passionate about food and wine and making sure people enjoy them.

I knew he would be the perfect subject for Wine Talk, so here it is. Give it a read, then pay a visit to Cain at Rosinka. You’ll enjoy the wines and the conversation.

Want more Wine Talk? Check out these stories:

The Paris Wine Goddess Tells All
Terry Theise Talks Riesling and Champagne
The Wine Daughter
A Man of Letters and Wine
Ms. Champagne Wants a Nebuchadnezzar
The Wine Artist Goes for Chardonnay
This American Loves Spain and Its Wines
Houston’s Wine Whisperer Has a Soft Touch
Blackberry Farm’s Somm Pours in Splendor
Mr. Pinot Noir: Donald Patz of Patz & Hall
A Cork Dork Wants to Spend More Time in Tuscany
Sommelier Turned Restaurateur Daringly Goes Greek
Texas Master Sommelier Debunks Wine Geeks
A Bottle From Gigondas Changed This Houston Man’s Life

Oil Man Falls in Love, and the Rest is Good-Taste History
Ryan Cooper of Camerata is a Riesling Man
Mixing It Up With Jeremy Parzen, an Ambassador of Italy
Sommelier at One of Houston’s Top Wine Bars Loves Underdogs

A Lucky Man

Food, friends, reuniting with fine people: I was all of that this past weekend, in Austin. I graduated from high school in Kaiserslautern, Germany, West Germany to be exact, for it was before the fall of the Berlin Wall and reunification of Ost und West. This weekend about 200 of my fellow graduates from Kaiserslautern American High School were in Austin, at an all-class reunion. Some of them I know and love, others are strangers, having graduated in 1965, or 1972, or another year before or after my time at that wonderful Department of Defense school in the Pfalz. No matter whether I know them or not, they are special people, our bond formed by days and nights and years spent in a magical land, full of beauty and culture and fine beer and great Rieslings.

We reunite fairly often, in Seattle or Las Vegas or Orlando; some of us have been lucky enough to spend time together in Kaiserslautern or Paris or Munich or New York; I have over the years caught up with fellow Red Raiders in all of those places. In 2013 Angela and I shared a great weekend with Beth Spencer Dixon and her family in North Carolina. We roasted a suckling pig, put together a Low Country boil, and drank some great wines and beers, and Tina’s coffee. It was the perfect weekend.

I am also reuniting with Constance and Alison, two beautiful woman who hired me this past year to cook the food for their wedding, which took place on Nantucket. They flew Angela and me up to that storied little island and we and 50 lucky guests witnessed a lovely ceremony. On Saturday night we cooked at their home in Austin. A few people came, including Jack and his wife, Suze. Another reunion. Jack and I have been friends since 1989; we met when we both worked at a bookstore, Fleming Books, in Huntsville, Alabama. We bonded over James Joyce and coffee and walks on Monte Sano.

I love all of these people, and my life is richer for knowing them.

I am a lucky man. A lucky man, indeed.

My Love For Riesling (and Olivia Newton-John) Knows No Bounds

Magic in a bottle.

Magic in a bottle.

Anyone who knows me well knows I am all about Riesling. I love the grape, I love the wines. I study them, I collect them, I drink them, I dream about them. I “grew up” in the Rheinland-Pfalz, a beautiful area out of which comes some great wines, and I still recall the first time I tasted a Riesling: It was 1980, and it was a Bassermann-Jordan, and it was delicious. My life changed then and there. I saw that magic could be bottled and opened later for one’s enjoyment. (Angela and I visited Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in 2012, along with a number of other wineries in the area. And we’ll be back.)

God's country, and home to some outstanding Rieslings. (Photo courtesy Germany.travel.com)

God’s country, and home to some outstanding Rieslings. (Photo courtesy Germany.travel.com)

The next day I went to the bookstore near my American high school and bought a copy of Frank J. Prial’s “Wine Talk” and began reading it immediately. I read anything about wine I could get my hands on, which was mostly in the International Herald Tribune (I was an editor on the staff of my school’s newspaper, and Ms. Thompson subscribed to the IHT for her journalism students).

My first wine book.

My first wine book.

Not long after that first taste my parents returned to the U.S. for a brief visit and I was left alone for a week or so. I don’t remember exactly where I bought my first collection of wines, but I clearly recall coming up with the plan to open a bottle each evening – I was at the time reading F. Scott Fitzgerald’s books in the order they were published, and the Rieslings surely added quality to that experience.

A friend who was around my age who lived upstairs from my family also liked wine, so he and I decided to start traveling to a village or town each week to enjoy a lunch or dinner and some wines. We went to Trier, and Mannheim, and many places in between. We ate bockwurst and schnitzel and escargot and saumagen. We drank mostly Rieslings, with some great beers thrown in for good measure. One meal I will always remember was one of trout caught from the waters below our table. It was at Seehaus Forelle, and it was more than 30 years ago, but it will be in my mind forever. The fish and the potatoes and the cucumber salad. And the wine. Riesling, of course.

Hopelessly devoted to you.

Hopelessly devoted to you.

Venus in fur.

Venus in fur.

That is how my passion for Riesling was born. But where, you ask, does Olivia Newton-John come in? Well, like any red-blooded male at that time I had a monumental crush on the Grease star. I loved the film, liked her songs, (though I was soon to discover the joys of Elvis Costello and U2 and the Police and BAP and leave her type of music behind), and admit to fantasizing about her from time to time. Or more often.

Yesterday I saw a video made by the Camerata crew, which transported me back to those days in Germany and made me think of Olivia and my first taste of Riesling. Watch this short, one of the best things I have ever seen made about my beloved grape, and perhaps you will understand what I am talking about. And whatever you do, drink more Riesling. It’s better than greased lightning.

 

A German Repast

All one needs for sensual nourishment.

All one needs for sensual nourishment.

In a small town — perhaps it is technically a village — in Germany, near Kaiserslautern, lives a family to whom I am very close. I have known them since the 1980s, and think of them often. They have told me to consider their home my home in Germany, and I do. I wish I could see them more often.

Whenever I am with them I am reminded yet again how rich and diverse Europe’s food offerings are. Gudrun always sets a fine table, and the dinner pictured above was no exception. You sit in the dining room, snow falling outside, and the cheeses and meats and wines – and conversation – make the evening something you want never to end.

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